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Review and Measurements of Hypex NC400 DIY Amp

Julf

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Do you have a link where he explains why?

Not handy, but it has been posted before. The point is that the output point also leads directly into the feedback input, so any electrical noise gets amplified.

From my measurements on other Ncore, it was quite heavily impacting channel separation

In a negative or positive way?
 

Harmonie

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I thought the group might like to see the finished product - Hypex NC400 Full Dual Mono DIY Build, using the Ghent 300mm case. BTW - I am not bragging, just for info :). I didn't like the binding posts that Ghent supplied, so I sourced some pure copper ones from AliExpress (took 3 weeks to arrive). Also, Ghent supplied screws that were too short for the LED board - had to go out and but some at the hardware store. Overall - no complaints - the Ghent case is really beautiful! There is another version of this same case that can be used to build a 3-channel unit (although it is a little tight). Total unit weighs in at 11.75 lbs.


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I'm tempted.
Sorry if stupid question but why is there so much space between the second board and the right side of the case when looking from the back ?
(I know that it's a kit and pre-drilled aso) - I'm just wondering if it's a standard case for all kinds of boards, or if it's an intentional implementation.

Also in your peg 1 is the AC switch lightened with a neon bulb ? The Red switch looks trans-lucid, reason I ask.
 

boXem

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Not handy, but it has been posted before. The point is that the output point also leads directly into the feedback input, so any electrical noise gets amplified.



In a negative or positive way?
OK, this would be immunity then.
My experiments where more on the impact of lousy twisting on the other channel. It was quite easy to loose 5 to 10 dB of channel separation.I didn't search further the root cause of this.
 

Julf

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OK, this would be immunity then.
My experiments where more on the impact of lousy twisting on the other channel. It was quite easy to loose 5 to 10 dB of channel separation.I didn't search further the root cause of this.

OK, that is a slightly different issue indeed, caused by the output leads of each channel running too close to each other (and not being twisted tightly/symmetrically enough.
 

boXem

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OK, that is a slightly different issue indeed, caused by the output leads of each channel running too close to each other (and not being twisted tightly/symmetrically enough.
Well, that's the case with the NCxxxMP modules where channel separation is anyhow not stellar (although very good).
In my case, the lousy twisted channel was leaking in the nicely twisted channel, but not the reverse way, so I had the guts feeling that it was in fact leaking in the input. My conclusion was that I would use machine twisted wires for production and call it a day.
 

Julf

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Well, that's the case with the NCxxxMP modules where channel separation is anyhow not stellar (although very good).

Not that channel separation matters much - in most systems, it is still way above that of the source material and the room (unless you use headphones, and with headphones, people keep using all sorts of solutions that lower channel separation on purpose to make the sound more "natural").
 

meinhard57

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Do you have a link where he explains why?
From my measurements on other Ncore, it was quite heavily impacting channel separation, I would be curious to learn if Bruno identified other effects.
Better?
 

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meinhard57

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I'm tempted.
Sorry if stupid question but why is there so much space between the second board and the right side of the case when looking from the back ?
(I know that it's a kit and pre-drilled aso) - I'm just wondering if it's a standard case for all kinds of boards, or if it's an intentional implementation.

Also in your peg 1 is the AC switch lightened with a neon bulb ? The Red switch looks trans-lucid, reason I ask.
Sorry for late response - Ghent sells two cases for this application - one is 200 mm wide and this one is 300 mm. I opted for the larger case because (a) I think it looks better and (b) I thought heat might dissipate a little better in this case. You are right - there is some open space on the one side. As I pointed out in my original post, Ghent sells this same case with additional holes to accomodate a 3-channel "tri-mono" setup, if you want to go that route. Three sets of AMps and PS would be pretty crowded, IMO. The power switch is just the one supplied by Ghent - not sure who makes it. It does have some illumination in it. Hope this helps. Bob
 

doug2761

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Just completed my Hypex NC400 monoblocks. I went with the DIY kit from Hypex. Cheers to Amir and the folks on this thread for drawing attention to these amps. Straightforward to assemble. They're sounding really good. Swapping back and forth between these and my McIntosh 402 amps. Both are very clear. I think the Hypex's might be a bit cleaner though. Wonderful sound or is that wonderful lack of coloration?
 

meinhard57

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Just completed my Hypex NC400 monoblocks. I went with the DIY kit from Hypex. Cheers to Amir and the folks on this thread for drawing attention to these amps. Straightforward to assemble. They're sounding really good. Swapping back and forth between these and my McIntosh 402 amps. Both are very clear. I think the Hypex's might be a bit cleaner though. Wonderful sound or is that wonderful lack of coloration?
Congrats!!! I am loving mine!!!
 

anon2k2

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I'm a newbie here and read through all the various posts about the Hypex NC400 amps. I decided to get them as an indoor project for the fall. I purchased monoblock kits from Hypex and the transaction couldn't have been smoother. Shipping was fast, all the pieces and parts were very well packed.

I built mine during the US labor day weekend and had a blast running them directly from the balanced outputs on an SMSL M500. Previously I had used the SMSL M500 (which I purchased from reading here as well) through a Peachtree Deco.

My only complaint is that it didn't turn out to be much of a project. (Yes, a little sarcastic there.) I was able to complete both units in about 30 mins each.

Next up, I have no way of attaching my turntable unless I get a preamp, so I think I'll look into a Topping A90.

Thanks for the advice and banter. I'm really enjoying the info I get here.
 

Nathan_A

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Recently acquired a pair of NC400 mono amps, and nothing obviously stands out as wrong with them, but they definitely weren't assembled by a professional assembler, and when they're powered on the NC400 modules have strips of red LEDs all lit up, which... anecdotally tends not to align with STATUS_OK in my varied life experiences.

I couldn't find anything about these LEDs in the Hypex datasheet.

Attached are some images of the wiring on the inside of each mono amp. It seems like it's wired correctly, though the "Mute" switch inline of one of the connections seems odd.
 

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waltzingbear

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Recently acquired a pair of NC400 mono amps, and nothing obviously stands out as wrong with them, but they definitely weren't assembled by a professional assembler, and when they're powered on the NC400 modules have strips of red LEDs all lit up, which... anecdotally tends not to align with STATUS_OK in my varied life experiences.

I couldn't find anything about these LEDs in the Hypex datasheet.

Attached are some images of the wiring on the inside of each mono amp. It seems like it's wired correctly, though the "Mute" switch inline of one of the connections seems odd.


LEDs are supposed to be lit. they are part of the circuit, not indicators.

wiring looks ok. the output wires are not optimal from the unit. as it is a mono block it matters less. Also, its not easy to get them in correctly with that connector.

cheers
Alan
 

Nathan_A

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LEDs are supposed to be lit. they are part of the circuit, not indicators.

wiring looks ok. the output wires are not optimal from the unit. as it is a mono block it matters less. Also, its not easy to get them in correctly with that connector.

cheers
Alan
What's the issue you're seeing with the terminal wiring?
 

meinhard57

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I built one of these as dual-mono amp and can confirm that the "lit LEDs" is normal behavior. As Walzingbear mentioned, output wires should "go into" the terminals the other way. On my build (after a forum member mentioned it), I went in and fixed it, but not sure how big a deal it actually is. I claim no superior knowledge on the subject, but I am really enjoying my Amp!
 
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