Review and Measurements of Crown XLS 1502 Amp

[nniemiec]

I'm wondering if anyone has experience in a work around for using a pair of 4 pole speakons for speaker connections on this amp? Because I'm using Canare bi-wire cable for each speaker - i ran into an issue realizing that channel 1 on the crown is supposed to exclusively be wired for both pair of speakers yet I can't do that with this cable. I guess what i'm asking is: how do I wire channel 1 using only 2 of the wires ? I'm not actually bi-wiring to the speakers currently, so must be a matter of not using 2 of the wires in the speakon to the amp? This is confusing.....

 

[grobalt]

4 pole speakon is wired like this:

Chan 1 is not exclusive 4 wire ... you can go 2 pole chan 1 and 2 pole chan 2 ...

 

[GabrielPhoto]

Hello!
Do you guys think this 1502 or 1002 is a better choice overall than something like the Audiosource AMP 300 (which I can get for around $230)?
This will be to drive my LR from my Denon x4300H. My idea in the was to do something like 1502 for LR and 1002 for Center (probably not bridge) just using the one channel.
My other option is to maybe grab an Outlaw 5000x bstock and only use 3 channels.

 

[john61ct]

I do not have AC mains power available, only DC,

LI battery bank storage and DC-DC conversion up the wazoo, so I can get to just about any voltage no problem, including EV 300+Vdc

I do **not** want to insert an inverter in the mix.

So, looking for an amp with this kind of power, but accepting DC input, to drive LS50's to dance party levels, often outdoors.

For those longer wire runs, balanced XLR inputs at pro line levels preferred over unbalanced RCA.

Don't need crazy-clean specs, but as good SQ as possible within say a $300-600 budget.

Higher pricing is OK if 2.1 driving a sub, but otherwise will add that later on.

If this 1502 can be modded to accept DC directly please advise, that would be ideal.

 

[Chrispy]

I do not have AC mains power available, only DC,

LI battery bank storage and DC-DC conversion up the wazoo, so I can get to just about any voltage no problem, including EV 300+Vdc

I do **not** want to insert an inverter in the mix.

So, looking for an amp with this kind of power, but accepting DC input, to drive LS50's to dance party levels, often outdoors.

For those longer wire runs, balanced XLR inputs at pro line levels preferred over unbalanced RCA.

Don't need crazy-clean specs, but as good SQ as possible within say a $300-600 budget.

Higher pricing is OK if 2.1 driving a sub, but otherwise will add that later on.

If this 1502 can be modded to accept DC directly please advise, that would be ideal.

I'd think you're more into 12V car amp type amplification territory with only DC feed.....maybe something from Rockford Fosgate?

 

[john61ct]

I was hoping for more pro-audio oriented, better SQ

but if I need to go that way, I'm guessing the marine / yachting market is better than car / RV.

Plus likely more robust, salt-protected PCBs.

JL Audio & Wet Sounds, very flexible on inputs, gain controls for input matching, bridging pairs, remote volume controls, separate sub levels, seems good stuff.

Higher costs even secondhand though.

Worst case go with DIY, a pair of ICEpower 250A's plus case + interconnects within budget.

But bands don't perform outdoors off grid off battery banks? Always have a gennie puttering away backstage?

 

[nniemiec]

I see some recommending opening the gain/attentuators all the way vs. others suggesting dialing it back. Since my loudspeakers are inefficient (88db) i'm inclined to open them all the way up. What's the rationale for dialing them back vs.opened fully?

 

[Chrispy]

I see some recommending opening the gain/attentuators all the way vs. others suggesting dialing it back. Since my loudspeakers are inefficient (88db) i'm inclined to open them all the way up. What's the rationale for dialing them back vs.opened fully?

Depends on your signal strength more than your speakers.

 

[Head_Unit]

I do not have AC mains power available, only DC,

I'd think you're more into 12V car amp type amplification territory

Having spent many years in that arena, let me say that while yes you can get up to some crazy power, it costs you a TON of amperage and losses. OR you're talking about bypassing an internal AC-to-DC conversion inside an amp, not trivial. I think a better approach would be to use amp modules which are fed by DC. This implies some kind of DIY, hopefully in a kit. I suggest to start a thread at https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/ and such places.

 

[Head_Unit]

So I read a lot but not all of this thread; wondering what is the "cleanest" of the "PA amps"???

 

[cistercian]

So I read a lot but not all of this thread; wondering what is the "cleanest" of the "PA amps"???

I don't know but as an owner of a XLS 2502 I can say having so much power on tap for so little money is fantastic
and easily lets you beat the neighbors in stereo wars if you have the right speakers.
On a more serious note mine sounds wonderful at low level...wonderfully so. It also delivers high SPL on demand
and is very competent there. I like the front LED indicators and a clip LED is included for each channel.
FWIW I highly recommend it.

 

[Head_Unit]

stereo wars if you have the right speakers.
On a more serious note mine sounds wonderful at low level...wonderfully so. It also delivers high SPL on demand
and is very competent there. I like the front LED indicators and a clip LED is included for each channel.

Ah, stereo wars, takes me back to college! I built what were essentially good-sounding PA speakers, but when someone else's stereo was almost as loud, my wealthy roommate bought a gigapower Carver touring sound amp. After that, there were NO "wars" any more
It's nice to have a vote for good low level sound, seriously. And nice to know it has clip LEDs.
Fan noise?

 

[cistercian]

Ah, stereo wars, takes me back to college! I built what were essentially good-sounding PA speakers, but when someone else's stereo was almost as loud, my wealthy roommate bought a gigapower Carver touring sound amp. After that, there were NO "wars" any more
It's nice to have a vote for good low level sound, seriously. And nice to know it has clip LEDs.
Fan noise?

The fan never turns on at normal levels. At maximum power it runs but the SPL is so high it does not matter. When the music
stops it runs quietly for a short time and shuts off. Total non issue.

 

[john61ct]

I think a better approach would be to use amp modules which are fed by DC. This implies some kind of DIY, hopefully in a kit. I suggest to start a thread at https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/ and such places.

I'd really rather not actually build it myself.

> Having spent many years in that arena, let me say that while yes you can get up to some crazy power, it costs you a TON of amperage and losses.

That "it" above, refers to what? DC power in general? seems unlikely, as I stated going to high voltages is not an issue for me.

If you mean the upconverting from 12V required for high power + good SQ being energy inefficient, then I'm OK with that, but would prefer finding more efficient units designed to natively feed off higher voltages. High currents, even hundreds of amps is not a problem, up to say 3-5kW.

> OR you're talking about bypassing an internal AC-to-DC conversion inside an amp, not trivial.

Well certainly easier than building amps from scratch! Feeding a clean say 80Vdc plus 12V and 5V for accessories would be no problem.

But if some of the marine vendors at 24Vdc can put out good SQ at say 150W into 8 ohm, that would be a lot more straightforward, worth spending a bit more money.

 

[DualTriode]

This was the entry-level tested. I would really like to see some of the Crown flagships tested as well. ITech 5000HD for example.
https://www.crownaudio.com/en/products/i-tech-5000hd

Just to see how they compare to Hypex nc400.

Hello,

Yes, test this amplifier. It is the amplifier that is bundled up in the JBL M2 monitor. Folks rave about the M2 monitor but do not give a thought to the bundled power amplifier.

Thanks DT

 

[Boomzilla]

So I read a lot but not all of this thread; wondering what is the "cleanest" of the "PA amps"???

The cleanest PA amp is the one WITHOUT the additional A-D/D-A converter.

 

[MediumRare]

You know me so well. LOL
Yes the system is a bit wonky, but we love it.
Only thing I don't agree on is farenheit vs celcius
Celcius in no way to me relates to what people feel in the way of temperature change, unless you use decimals.
80f is 26c 32 is 0? Goes from warm to freezing in a big hurry.

Sal, having lived with both, Celsius is easier:
30+ air conditioning
20+ no jacket
10-20 jacket
0-10 coat
<0 gloves

so easy!

 

[DonH56]

Having spent many years in that arena, let me say that while yes you can get up to some crazy power, it costs you a TON of amperage and losses. OR you're talking about bypassing an internal AC-to-DC conversion inside an amp, not trivial. I think a better approach would be to use amp modules which are fed by DC. This implies some kind of DIY, hopefully in a kit. I suggest to start a thread at https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/ and such places.

At some point all amps are "fed by DC", just a choice of whether the power supply is inside or outside the box. Switch-mode power supplies (SMPS) move the power supply noise well above the audio band and require much smaller filter capacitors and no lare, bulky transformers. Linear supplies doesn't have HF switching noise, but tend to inject 50/100 or 60/120 Hz (depends on your country's grid) harmonic noise that is in the bass region and audible (if loud enough). Moving the supply outside the box offers the opportunity for more shielding, but if the noise is actually on the power rails (typical) then it doesn't really help, and you've added extra connections and voltage drop due to the longer lines to the amp. Always trades...

 

[MediumRare]

There are a lot of candidates. The issue is what to do with them after testing. As it is, I am stuck with the Behringer and Crown. If someone wants to buy one or both of these, I can free up funds to buy others to test.

Do you still have this? I’d consider relieving you of it.

 

[EJ3]

Sal, having lived with both, Celsius is easier:
30+ air conditioning
20+ no jacket
10-20 jacket
0-10 coat
<0 gloves

so easy!

Unfortunately for me (Austria/Deep South USA & Guam based) & my wife (China & Guam based) with Fahrenheit we can find a temp on the AC/Heat that is tolerable to both of us (74 F) which we cannot with the Celsius control (23 C [73.4 F) has her freezing & 24 C [75.2] has me sweating when I am sitting still. Unless the Celsius can be controlled to 1/10th decimal points ([23.3 C = 73.94 F] or [23.4 C = 74.12] , we have issues being in the same room together for more than a short period of time. She weighs 94 lbs & I weigh 225 lbs (down from 258). Losing the weight has not helped my 'inside the house' temperature tolerance one bit. Maybe 30 less lbs. would. Hopefully we will find out.