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Revel M105 Copy DIY build

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Apr 14, 2021
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okay threw the waveguide in cad today and took a good look at it.. Separated the top and bottom to allow for easy printing on a FDM printer and some heated inserts too allow for a secure fitment afterwords. Also replace the rear holes used for the mounting bracket with heated inserts for better threading and re-use. Printing a test one now will report how it comes out although I do not have the tweeter yet..
What's the point in splitting up the model? Most FDM printers can print the whole thing just fine.
 

kejar31

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What's the point in splitting up the model? Most FDM printers can print the whole thing just fine.

The overhang with it upside down and keeping the print as clean as possible. By splitting it you get a much cleaner print. I am sure most are cleaning this up via post processing but I would rather it come out clean from the printer as I would like to print this in either carbon fiber petg or nylon.
 
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The overhang with it upside down and keeping the print as clean as possible. By splitting it you get a much cleaner print. I am sure most are cleaning this up via post processing but I would rather it come out clean from the printer as I would like to print this in either carbon fiber petg or nylon.
The Overhang is a non issue for modern fdm printers, and printing on it's side hides layer lines. Splitting it just creates more seems....

I've printed this waveguide several times with zero issues.
 

kejar31

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The Overhang is a non issue for modern fdm printers, and printing on it's side hides layer lines. Splitting it just creates more seems....

I've printed this waveguide several times with zero issues.
Okay, glad that worked for you.. but I have a different set of goals than you and have these concerns with printing this in its side.

1. Printing it on its side is going to require supports.

2. Printing perfect holes at an angle or from the Z axis is very difficult even for modern FDM printer (resin too) and I want that tweeter to fit in perfectly

Also I like to think I have a modern printer as I have built 3 and designed my own custom parts for each and released them…

Anyways here is a first quick test run.. need to work on that lower part overhang (probable slow down the external perimeter a bit) but I think it’s going turn out fine.. also planning to possibly print a few layers on the lower half in a separate color which might look cool.. either way, the filament I want to use will be here tomorrow so will wait for that before I test again and post any more pictures or update.

edit: added pictures and cleaned up writing a bit
 

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kejar31

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The Overhang is a non issue for modern fdm printers, and printing on it's side hides layer lines. Splitting it just creates more seems....

I've printed this waveguide several times with zero issues.

So I have decided to try an option two.

This time it is not split instead I removed the bottom pegs and created inserts to allow for gluing in pegs afterwords.. this left me with just the lip around the hole where the tweeter mounted. Looking at the pics of the tweeter in the OP it seems that to allow for wire tracings and wire mounts on the bottom of the driver. So rather than just I came up with a different way to allow for that which should work and also allow the whole part to sit flush (outside of some needed bridging) Also still including M3 threaded inserts for the mount. This will require supports still but at least they or only directly under the lip which doesn't really matter. Doing a test print now..
 

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kejar31

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So I lied there is more pics.. went ahead and tried to print option 2.. it came out pretty good.. this is in abs but still a test print.. tried to do a adaptive layers but you can see the shifts as there is a slight color change. Also need to turn shop on for top laters to avoid a bit of scaring..
 

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Einsneins

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You can always mount the X-O in separate box, actually it's preferred to have the over parts away from magnets and vibrations. On top it's easier to do fine tunning and voicing with X-O out of the box.
As for offset in Z axis between tweeter and woofer, it changes the phase relation therefore the frequency response will change. 5mm can be ignored but anything over that usually adds to much phase relation difference. Most of the time we want tweeter dome behind flat faceplate/baffle to make the phase relation easier to align/compensate in crossover design, so we don't have hole in freq. resp. around crossover above the tweeter axis. Erin at Erin's Corner shows at in his reviews.
It will be a 6mm offset compared to the original 30mm MDF front plate design. However, the woofer and tweeter will be flush, as I simply glued a 3/4 inch piece of MDF (with appropriately cut holes for drivers) to the back of the front piece of MDF on which both drivers were flush mounted. The one issue I'm worried about is that when gluing one set of front panels together it left a small gap on the side -- how much of a problem would a small air gap between the two front panels cause?

I don't really want to make the speakers any bigger than they are right now, so an extra box attached to the speakers doesn't seem great. I suppose I could just have them as a separate system but that'd be a little sad in terms of looks / simplicity.

Also, does any remember exactly which screws they used for the woofer and waveguide?
 
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