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Revel F35 Speaker Review

Fastfwd

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I have the big brother, Revel F36. I run dual subs with them because to me, it doesn't matter how low any tower speaker attempts to play...fidelity and sound quality is better with well placed, high quality dual subs with the whole system eq'd below Shcroeder. I keep mine as close to the wall as possible....the more the low end is boosted, the better imo. Eq flattens things out so this only results in greater efficiency with lower distortion and more clean output capability. Also, I don't want speakers sticking out into the middle of the room, especially since there is no benefit. Crossed to subs, I can have literally any amount of bass I want with ultra low distortion, which is not possible with the little drivers used in the speakers. I would take M16's with subs long before I would settle for the reduced sound quality and lower overall performance of my F36 w/o subs.

Thanks for your input.... Before I actually got these I might have believed that I would do mostly the same and run them crossed over most of the time, but as it turns out I find myself running them far more full range without the sub. Not with movies or gaming, obviously. Lots of modern music benefits from having the sub too, but I've been doing A LOT of listening to older blues and jazz since I got these and enjoying more 'live performance' style recordings vs studio albums. A testament, perhaps, to how good they sound to me at least in part.

When I do cross them over it sounds like it's robbing a ton of fullness from the overall sound even if my sub is superior at reproducing those lower frequencies. I never would have believed it. I know Audyssey has a reputation for getting the sub level wrong and I adjust it with a manual spl meter measurement that corrects by about 2db, but it's still short imo. Running the F35 crossed over to 60hz seems to help, but the general wisdom is apparently the roll off at 80hz is supposed to be the technically better choice. I'm not sure about that personally. It seems to sound better for me crossed over lower. There are instances where it helps to cut off those lower frequencies and let the sub handle it if it just gets too heavy or 'muddy' (not sure that's the right term) in the low end.

A part of my enjoyment of them is that they do perform pretty well full range on their own. The bass is heavy and it is much tighter after they broke in for a few weeks (or I got much more accustomed to how they sound). I question if external amplification might exhibit tighter control over the bass too, but I'm not that worried about it. I can run my Denon receiver in Audyssey 'Flat' with no boost if needed to help tame that low end vs what I've seen here recommended with the 'Reference' setting for music to boost the low end. In that sense they certainly don't need any further 'boost.'

The biggest factor for me in my setup is that I feel like I just barely have enough room to run floorstanding speakers. I knew that before I purchased them. I knew the F35 would probably be the best fit for what space that I do have. I still wish I had more room to move them around. I think the imaging and soundstage would benefit greatly if I had more room to play with. It is perfectly acceptable as it is, but I think it could be better with these guys if I had more room to work with. I also think that would help to flatten out that low end and tighten it up. They would be far more ideal if I had the room for that, but since I don't it makes me question if the M16 wouldn't have suited my space better even considering how much I enjoy runnning the F35 full range as it is.

I might mention that when I get the feeling that I'm missing a little 'holographic soundstage' from my old Ascend 170s I can always upmix just about anything with DTS Neural X (or Dolby Atmos) and employ the full home theater speaker array with 4 in-ceiling RSL C34 speakers. It blows my mind just about every time I listen to 2 channel upmixed. It might not be very 'audiophile' to upmix 2 channel, but for my limited space it creates a bubble of sound that I wouldn't believe possible. How it's able to real-time interpret the sound-field and redirect just those sounds to the speakers that replay them in such a way that goes beyond what the original 2 channel mix attempted to do is amazing to me. Even if DTS Neural X gets the front soundstage wrong and puts almost everything in the center channel it gets the rest of the routing so right it's worth it for me. Dolby just doesn't measure up with the ceiling channels imo, but I digress.

Bimbleton asking about these for his Denon 3600 (?) setup reminds me of my research into this. Specifically, with how picky most of the other options are about how you power them. Either they are super picky about exactly what external amp makes them sound the best or they possibly simply can't handle home theater levels of power. It just reminds me of going through what he's going through now and how all of the factors come together to narrow the field of options. I, personally, didn't want to be bothered with having to do additional research into what external amp I had to buy to go along with a new set of speakers after I just bought the new receiver last Christmas already. The 'simple' answer of a 'Hegel' being the best option was certainly not in my budget and I was already saturated with researching at that point anyway.

Even after I had these and I was enjoying them I started looking into external amplification and focused on a Parasound as a possible option within a reasonable budget. Then I realized that I'm running everything off of one probably 20amp outlet. My TV, Xbox One X, Sony 4k player, Denon 4500, external sub - all of it. I can't believe it doesn't already trip the circut breaker as it is. Much less if I tried to add a really high current amp. I would have to drop a dedicated outlet in the least to probably even run a high current external amp. That's just too much fuss for me personally. I dug into it further and starting finding the power 'regenerator' options from PS Audio. What a rabbit hole that becomes.

Maybe a nice little class D amp would work without dropping a new outlet, but I'm not all that interested in spending more on it at this point. I had a cop move in next door and that has already put a huge damper on the enjoyment of what I have. To put it mildly.

Ok, enough of a rant on this from me. I've decided to just enjoy what I have and stop debating it. I can tinker with my setup if I feel the need for a change. Tweak crossover settings. Toe in/Toe out. Adjust Audyssey frequency correction points. Just search for nice recordings on Amazon Music, Tidal, etc. to playback. There's plenty to occupy time with besides being concerned with what next thing I have to buy to make it better.

The Revels check off a lot of boxes when you start to narrow the field of choices for certain applications. Home theater/music use, etc. Budget for amplification or if you are just trying to keep it simple regardless of budget. There are compromises, but they're a nice fit for me personally.

Bimbleton, as long as you have sufficient space the Revel F35 can image well. The imaging (as I understand the term) is how the sounds become placed in space beyond the speakers. The speakers 'disappear' and the instruments or vocals will be placed in space as they were recorded, etc. So, if you can get these away from the wall enough you will get that. If not, it might create a struggle. That's why bookshelf speakers (like the M16) tend to be the choice for smaller spaces. They tend to 'disappear' much easier with the compromise of not as much of a fuller sound/scale. They also can produce a very wide soundstage without the need to have room to separate them as much (I believe is the general principle). The F35 do make a nice compromise for a smaller space in that regard, but you might be giving up a little bit in terms of soundstage width and bass response if you don't have the room for perfect placement.

Check out this video. This guy does a pretty good job of summarizing his technique for finding the best speaker placement for optimal 'soundstage' and imaging with any speaker. I don't know if he's the best technical expert on Youtube about speakers, but he's got the best beginner's guide for speaker placement that I've seen pop up.

Loudspeaker Optimization Techniques for Soundstage!
 
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Bimbleton

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Thanks for the thoughtful reply FastFwd! You hit it right on the head — with limited space and even more limited budget, I’m doing lots of research, wondering through options, and just trying to make the best decision I can. Hoping the F35’s/C25 can last me a good number of years.
 
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starfly

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As an owner of the F206 for over a year now (and yes, a step up in price-range from the F35/F36), I still thoroughly enjoy them everytime I listen to them. I think they would sound even better if I could space them a bit further apart, but unfortunately I'm space constrained. I hope to someday finish my basement and turn that into a dedicated listening / home theater room and then I'd try to find just the perfect spot for them.

As it is, it's not likely I'll ever get rid of these, unless they die on me somehow.
 

Bear123

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Anyone have an impression of the C25 center off-axis?
If it helps any, here are measurements of one of my F36 across all seating on my large sectional, probably a good 10 feet wide or so. You can compare to the same measurements of my C25 center channel. You can clearly see that the F36 has a much more consistent FR across a wide range of seats i.e. off axis. The C25 isn't terrible, probably about as good as it gets for a 2 way MTM center channel, but definitely no wear near as smooth as the F36. If I had the vertical space, I would use a C208 without hesitation.

Subjectively, the C25 seems to sound fine crossed at 80 Hz to my dual subs. Definitely anchors vocals to the center no matter where you sit.
LF36 ALL SEATS AND AVG DEQ.jpg
C25 6 SEATS AND AVG AUD DEQ.jpg
 
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Alice of Old Vincennes

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Thanks for your input.... Before I actually got these I might have believed that I would do mostly the same and run them crossed over most of the time, but as it turns out I find myself running them far more full range without the sub. Not with movies or gaming, obviously. Lots of modern music benefits from having the sub too, but I've been doing A LOT of listening to older blues and jazz since I got these and enjoying more 'live performance' style recordings vs studio albums. A testament, perhaps, to how good they sound to me at least in part.

When I do cross them over it sounds like it's robbing a ton of fullness from the overall sound even if my sub is superior at reproducing those lower frequencies. I never would have believed it. I know Audyssey has a reputation for getting the sub level wrong and I adjust it with a manual spl meter measurement that corrects by about 2db, but it's still short imo. Running the F35 crossed over to 60hz seems to help, but the general wisdom is apparently the roll off at 80hz is supposed to be the technically better choice. I'm not sure about that personally. It seems to sound better for me crossed over lower. There are instances where it helps to cut off those lower frequencies and let the sub handle it if it just gets too heavy or 'muddy' (not sure that's the right term) in the low end.

A part of my enjoyment of them is that they do perform pretty well full range on their own. The bass is heavy and it is much tighter after they broke in for a few weeks (or I got much more accustomed to how they sound). I question if external amplification might exhibit tighter control over the bass too, but I'm not that worried about it. I can run my Denon receiver in Audyssey 'Flat' with no boost if needed to help tame that low end vs what I've seen here recommended with the 'Reference' setting for music to boost the low end. In that sense they certainly don't need any further 'boost.'

The biggest factor for me in my setup is that I feel like I just barely have enough room to run floorstanding speakers. I knew that before I purchased them. I knew the F35 would probably be the best fit for what space that I do have. I still wish I had more room to move them around. I think the imaging and soundstage would benefit greatly if I had more room to play with. It is perfectly acceptable as it is, but I think it could be better with these guys if I had more room to work with. I also think that would help to flatten out that low end and tighten it up. They would be far more ideal if I had the room for that, but since I don't it makes me question if the M16 wouldn't have suited my space better even considering how much I enjoy runnning the F35 full range as it is.

I might mention that when I get the feeling that I'm missing a little 'holographic soundstage' from my old Ascend 170s I can always upmix just about anything with DTS Neural X (or Dolby Atmos) and employ the full home theater speaker array with 4 in-ceiling RSL C34 speakers. It blows my mind just about every time I listen to 2 channel upmixed. It might not be very 'audiophile' to upmix 2 channel, but for my limited space it creates a bubble of sound that I wouldn't believe possible. How it's able to real-time interpret the sound-field and redirect just those sounds to the speakers that replay them in such a way that goes beyond what the original 2 channel mix attempted to do is amazing to me. Even if DTS Neural X gets the front soundstage wrong and puts almost everything in the center channel it gets the rest of the routing so right it's worth it for me. Dolby just doesn't measure up with the ceiling channels imo, but I digress.

Bimbleton asking about these for his Denon 3600 (?) setup reminds me of my research into this. Specifically, with how picky most of the other options are about how you power them. Either they are super picky about exactly what external amp makes them sound the best or they possibly simply can't handle home theater levels of power. It just reminds me of going through what he's going through now and how all of the factors come together to narrow the field of options. I, personally, didn't want to be bothered with having to do additional research into what external amp I had to buy to go along with a new set of speakers after I just bought the new receiver last Christmas already. The 'simple' answer of a 'Hegel' being the best option was certainly not in my budget and I was already saturated with researching at that point anyway.

Even after I had these and I was enjoying them I started looking into external amplification and focused on a Parasound as a possible option within a reasonable budget. Then I realized that I'm running everything off of one probably 20amp outlet. My TV, Xbox One X, Sony 4k player, Denon 4500, external sub - all of it. I can't believe it doesn't already trip the circut breaker as it is. Much less if I tried to add a really high current amp. I would have to drop a dedicated outlet in the least to probably even run a high current external amp. That's just too much fuss for me personally. I dug into it further and starting finding the power 'regenerator' options from PS Audio. What a rabbit hole that becomes.

Maybe a nice little class D amp would work without dropping a new outlet, but I'm not all that interested in spending more on it at this point. I had a cop move in next door and that has already put a huge damper on the enjoyment of what I have. To put it mildly.

Ok, enough of a rant on this from me. I've decided to just enjoy what I have and stop debating it. I can tinker with my setup if I feel the need for a change. Tweak crossover settings. Toe in/Toe out. Adjust Audyssey frequency correction points. Just search for nice recordings on Amazon Music, Tidal, etc. to playback. There's plenty to occupy time with besides being concerned with what next thing I have to buy to make it better.

The Revels check off a lot of boxes when you start to narrow the field of choices for certain applications. Home theater/music use, etc. Budget for amplification or if you are just trying to keep it simple regardless of budget. There are compromises, but they're a nice fit for me personally.

Bimbleton, as long as you have sufficient space the Revel F35 can image well. The imaging (as I understand the term) is how the sounds become placed in space beyond the speakers. The speakers 'disappear' and the instruments or vocals will be placed in space as they were recorded, etc. So, if you can get these away from the wall enough you will get that. If not, it might create a struggle. That's why bookshelf speakers (like the M16) tend to be the choice for smaller spaces. They tend to 'disappear' much easier with the compromise of not as much of a fuller sound/scale. They also can produce a very wide soundstage without the need to have room to separate them as much (I believe is the general principle). The F35 do make a nice compromise for a smaller space in that regard, but you might be giving up a little bit in terms of soundstage width and bass response if you don't have the room for perfect placement.

Check out this video. This guy does a pretty good job of summarizing his technique for finding the best speaker placement for optimal 'soundstage' and imaging with any speaker. I don't know if he's the best technical expert on Youtube about speakers, but he's got the best beginner's guide for speaker placement that I've seen pop up.

Loudspeaker Optimization Techniques for Soundstage!
Cross over with Anthem Room Correction. I have used your correction for years. It does not work.
 

wigglerabbit

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I used the M16s in my theater/music area for almost a year before moving to the F35s (and the Studio 530s before that, and Jamo S803s/C93s before that, and Elac UB5s before that...) and while my space itself is fairly large I only sit 8 ft from the speakers and the 'nook' the viewing area is tucked into is only 9.5 x10 ft and has a wall a mere foot to the of the left front speaker. Moving from the M16s to the F35s was, in my opinion, a small but clear and definite upgrade with respect to evenness and detail, with both speakers more than handling my volume needs. The lack of midbass bump in the F35s vs the M16s also made it easier to cross with my subwoofer and I actually ended up gaining a ton of output below ~65 Hz due to how I was able to tune things. I did my measurements with REW but only run the system itself off an Onkyo NR656 so I too am the target audience Revel had in mind with this Concerta 2 system.

With respect to similarity to the Revels but not huge and not too picky about placement the JBL Studio 580s might be a good option if you're cool with the aesthetics. I find the Studio series to perform very similarly to my Revels... perhaps it's the Harman pedigree. I still use the 530s on my desk and have the M16s boxed up thinking I'll get them back out someday, but that day hasn't yet arrived.



FWIW I found the C25 a bit underwhelming and I personally prefer center speakers to dig deeper than the 80 Hz f3 point that they have. I use an Emotiva C2 with mine but auditioned the Infinity RC263 as well and was quite pleased. I'm a function-over-form guy and picked these largely due to value but point being that you shouldn't have much trouble finding another neutral-ish center to match the F35s if you want something larger.

Hi, did you happen to own T2s before going with the F35s? It didnt seem like you did from your post, but as a T2+ owner here, I am consistently wondering if the F35s would be a significant upgrade to T2+.
 

Haint

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Hi, did you happen to own T2s before going with the F35s? It didnt seem like you did from your post, but as a T2+ owner here, I am consistently wondering if the F35s would be a significant upgrade to T2+.

@amirm, did you ever post your updated measurements of these?
 

AVKS

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Hi, did you happen to own T2s before going with the F35s? It didnt seem like you did from your post, but as a T2+ owner here, I am consistently wondering if the F35s would be a significant upgrade to T2+.

I have not owned T2s, no. From my experience with the C2 it would be a sidegrade, perhaps slight upgrade in technical capability, but not world-changing by any means. The T2s also offer more headroom and bass extension.
 

wigglerabbit

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I have not owned T2s, no. From my experience with the C2 it would be a sidegrade, perhaps slight upgrade in technical capability, but not world-changing by any means. The T2s also offer more headroom and bass extension.

Thanks so much for your input!
 

MrOtto

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I have been looking at the F36 with 6,5" mid/woofers for a large room, 8x8 meters, can I expect the same performance from the F36 as this tested F35?
 

deniall83

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I’m currently considering these speakers but I’m not so sure if I should go for these or the stand mounts. I have a small apartment but I can get the F35 for a good price and the bookshelves plus stands would be almost as much. Worth it to just go for the F35’s even in a small space?
 

Bear123

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I don’t see a downside. Will look better and more capable if you ever want or need it
 

Sal1950

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Worth it to just go for the F35’s even in a small space?
Oh hell yes! :)
I had the JBL HDI 1600 standmounts in here for evaluation. They were great but decided to send them back and go for the HDI 3600 towers.
Very glad I did, a big improvement in bass handling and dynamics. IMHO
 

AVKS

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I have been looking at the F36 with 6,5" mid/woofers for a large room, 8x8 meters, can I expect the same performance from the F36 as this tested F35?

I'd definitely go with the F36 for a room that size, assuming the whole room needs to be filled and you aren't only sitting a few feet away.
 

AVKS

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I’m currently considering these speakers but I’m not so sure if I should go for these or the stand mounts. I have a small apartment but I can get the F35 for a good price and the bookshelves plus stands would be almost as much. Worth it to just go for the F35’s even in a small space?

I went from M16s to F35s at a distance of 8ft or so and do believe there was improvement in resolution and imaging. Not drastic by any means though, as the M16 is extremely capable (and currently in use on my desk), but if costs are close then go with the F35s.
 

Fastfwd

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I gave in and bought a MiniDSP calibrated mic for REW. I just got it and I probably haven't completely figured REW out, but according to a few videos and guides I've seen including from here - I should be in the ballpark of taking accurate measurements. I didn't take multiple measurements from around the listening position as I've seen some direct is important. I really need to run Audyssey again after tinkering with my toe in since my last run of it.

I was just really curious what these Revels were doing. I've recently started using 'Pure Direct' mode on my Denon receiver that is now paired with a Parasound A23+ on these F35s. I didn't realize Audyssey was converting my SACD disc DSD to PCM 48khz and once I tried using 'Pure Direct' I decided I kind of liked how mellow it sounded. Less 'bright' etc.

I usually listen to the Denon with Audyssey set to 'Flat' and the Dynamic EQ turned on. I have neighbors that seem to like to complain so I try to listen at lower volumes and the Dynamic EQ is amazing for that especially, but I've been curious what it is actually doing vs 'Reference' and 'Pure Direct' for example and just generally.

Here are a few of the samples I took from what I believe was supposed to be a calibrated volume set to 75db. I don't know why the measurements look like they are hitting 85db, but I'm not sure that matters. I also did tinker with the db range on some of these so that skews the look of the graph from one to the next.

I am pretty pleased with the results of the bass extension in my room. I knew I was maybe too close to the wall, but I actually sort of liked the beefy bass response after adding the Parasound A23+ which gave them much more control imo. It looks like I'm getting way better extension that the rated specs? To my eyes depending on how you view what the 'average' output is I might see extension of -10db down to 25hz? Ballpark anyway? You would have to judge without the Dynamic EQ bump thrown in at 50/60hz maybe. IDK.

I'm a little bummed that they roll off after 15khz so hard. Like 5db to 20khz. I thought it would be more like 2db or 3db. Maybe that is because they aren't exactly 'on axis.'

I've also got a pretty nasty dip at 110hz that I might like to see what I can do about. I think there is a manual EQ in the Denon menus that I might try to tweak now that I can basically tune this myself. See if I can do it better by hand.

I'm actually pretty pleased with the sound. Ignorance is bliss maybe idk, but I sort of like the easy listening top end. I had Ascend CBM 170s prior to the and they were maybe more 'monitor' like flat to 20khz and they got bright on me. I had to use the Audyssey built in curve to help roll them off.

Speaking of I currently have Audyssey set to only smooth to 800hz. There were a few surprises with the Dynamic EQ still kicking in around 50/60hz and like 15khz giving a pretty sharp bump in those frequencies that took me a bit to see what was happening there. I may go back to letting Audyssey smooth out further. I did have it set to 10khz before I let the Revels play freely and I have since brought it down to 800hz.

Left Right Channels with Audyssey Flat and Dynamic EQ turned on

Flat Left Right with EQ On.jpg

Left Right Channels with Auddysey Flat and Dynamic EQ off

Left Right Flat Dynamic EQ Off.jpg

Left Right Channels with Audyssey 'Reference' setting and Dynamic EQ on

Left Right Reference Dynamic EQ On.jpg

Left Right Channels with Audyssey 'Reference' setting and Dynamic EQ off

Left Right Reference with Dynamic EQ OFF Ref Level.jpg

Left Right Channels Pure Direct

Left Right Pure Direct Reference Volume.jpg

I tried to throw the sub in playing the Revels full range and checking for any difference with the crossover at 80hz and 120hz for that 110hz dip. I can't be absolutely certain the sub was giving me a 120hz crossover. I didn't specifically check it, but maybe it's just my room? The mic purchase was originally intended to help see if any room treatments would be helpful or not for something like this.

Left Right Flat Dynamic EQ with Sub 120 and 80.jpg
 

Bear123

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I gave in and bought a MiniDSP calibrated mic for REW. I just got it and I probably haven't completely figured REW out, but according to a few videos and guides I've seen including from here - I should be in the ballpark of taking accurate measurements. I didn't take multiple measurements from around the listening position as I've seen some direct is important. I really need to run Audyssey again after tinkering with my toe in since my last run of it.

I was just really curious what these Revels were doing. I've recently started using 'Pure Direct' mode on my Denon receiver that is now paired with a Parasound A23+ on these F35s. I didn't realize Audyssey was converting my SACD disc DSD to PCM 48khz and once I tried using 'Pure Direct' I decided I kind of liked how mellow it sounded. Less 'bright' etc.

I usually listen to the Denon with Audyssey set to 'Flat' and the Dynamic EQ turned on. I have neighbors that seem to like to complain so I try to listen at lower volumes and the Dynamic EQ is amazing for that especially, but I've been curious what it is actually doing vs 'Reference' and 'Pure Direct' for example and just generally.

Here are a few of the samples I took from what I believe was supposed to be a calibrated volume set to 75db. I don't know why the measurements look like they are hitting 85db, but I'm not sure that matters. I also did tinker with the db range on some of these so that skews the look of the graph from one to the next.

I am pretty pleased with the results of the bass extension in my room. I knew I was maybe too close to the wall, but I actually sort of liked the beefy bass response after adding the Parasound A23+ which gave them much more control imo. It looks like I'm getting way better extension that the rated specs? To my eyes depending on how you view what the 'average' output is I might see extension of -10db down to 25hz? Ballpark anyway? You would have to judge without the Dynamic EQ bump thrown in at 50/60hz maybe. IDK.

I'm a little bummed that they roll off after 15khz so hard. Like 5db to 20khz. I thought it would be more like 2db or 3db. Maybe that is because they aren't exactly 'on axis.'

I've also got a pretty nasty dip at 110hz that I might like to see what I can do about. I think there is a manual EQ in the Denon menus that I might try to tweak now that I can basically tune this myself. See if I can do it better by hand.

I'm actually pretty pleased with the sound. Ignorance is bliss maybe idk, but I sort of like the easy listening top end. I had Ascend CBM 170s prior to the and they were maybe more 'monitor' like flat to 20khz and they got bright on me. I had to use the Audyssey built in curve to help roll them off.

Speaking of I currently have Audyssey set to only smooth to 800hz. There were a few surprises with the Dynamic EQ still kicking in around 50/60hz and like 15khz giving a pretty sharp bump in those frequencies that took me a bit to see what was happening there. I may go back to letting Audyssey smooth out further. I did have it set to 10khz before I let the Revels play freely and I have since brought it down to 800hz.

Left Right Channels with Audyssey Flat and Dynamic EQ turned on

View attachment 123391

Left Right Channels with Auddysey Flat and Dynamic EQ off

View attachment 123385

Left Right Channels with Audyssey 'Reference' setting and Dynamic EQ on

View attachment 123386

Left Right Channels with Audyssey 'Reference' setting and Dynamic EQ off

View attachment 123387

Left Right Channels Pure Direct

View attachment 123389

I tried to throw the sub in playing the Revels full range and checking for any difference with the crossover at 80hz and 120hz for that 110hz dip. I can't be absolutely certain the sub was giving me a 120hz crossover. I didn't specifically check it, but maybe it's just my room? The mic purchase was originally intended to help see if any room treatments would be helpful or not for something like this.

View attachment 123390
Have you tried using REW to place the sub in the best position that gives a good response under 120 Hz? Seems like you might be able to improve things a lot in this range with good sub placement and eq. Or perhaps a 2nd sub. What sub do you have? I tried using a cheap sub(JBL500P) with my Revel F36 out of curiosity(its my workout room sub) and it did not improve extension. It did of course improve response as intended, using a pair.

I can't see your first graph for some reason, other than the tiny thumbnail
 

Haint

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I gave in and bought a MiniDSP calibrated mic for REW. I just got it and I probably haven't completely figured REW out, but according to a few videos and guides I've seen including from here - I should be in the ballpark of taking accurate measurements. I didn't take multiple measurements from around the listening position as I've seen some direct is important. I really need to run Audyssey again after tinkering with my toe in since my last run of it.

I was just really curious what these Revels were doing. I've recently started using 'Pure Direct' mode on my Denon receiver that is now paired with a Parasound A23+ on these F35s. I didn't realize Audyssey was converting my SACD disc DSD to PCM 48khz and once I tried using 'Pure Direct' I decided I kind of liked how mellow it sounded. Less 'bright' etc.

I usually listen to the Denon with Audyssey set to 'Flat' and the Dynamic EQ turned on. I have neighbors that seem to like to complain so I try to listen at lower volumes and the Dynamic EQ is amazing for that especially, but I've been curious what it is actually doing vs 'Reference' and 'Pure Direct' for example and just generally.

Here are a few of the samples I took from what I believe was supposed to be a calibrated volume set to 75db. I don't know why the measurements look like they are hitting 85db, but I'm not sure that matters. I also did tinker with the db range on some of these so that skews the look of the graph from one to the next.

I am pretty pleased with the results of the bass extension in my room. I knew I was maybe too close to the wall, but I actually sort of liked the beefy bass response after adding the Parasound A23+ which gave them much more control imo. It looks like I'm getting way better extension that the rated specs? To my eyes depending on how you view what the 'average' output is I might see extension of -10db down to 25hz? Ballpark anyway? You would have to judge without the Dynamic EQ bump thrown in at 50/60hz maybe. IDK.

I'm a little bummed that they roll off after 15khz so hard. Like 5db to 20khz. I thought it would be more like 2db or 3db. Maybe that is because they aren't exactly 'on axis.'

I've also got a pretty nasty dip at 110hz that I might like to see what I can do about. I think there is a manual EQ in the Denon menus that I might try to tweak now that I can basically tune this myself. See if I can do it better by hand.

I'm actually pretty pleased with the sound. Ignorance is bliss maybe idk, but I sort of like the easy listening top end. I had Ascend CBM 170s prior to the and they were maybe more 'monitor' like flat to 20khz and they got bright on me. I had to use the Audyssey built in curve to help roll them off.

Speaking of I currently have Audyssey set to only smooth to 800hz. There were a few surprises with the Dynamic EQ still kicking in around 50/60hz and like 15khz giving a pretty sharp bump in those frequencies that took me a bit to see what was happening there. I may go back to letting Audyssey smooth out further. I did have it set to 10khz before I let the Revels play freely and I have since brought it down to 800hz.

Left Right Channels with Audyssey Flat and Dynamic EQ turned on

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Left Right Channels with Auddysey Flat and Dynamic EQ off

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Left Right Channels with Audyssey 'Reference' setting and Dynamic EQ on

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Left Right Channels with Audyssey 'Reference' setting and Dynamic EQ off

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Left Right Channels Pure Direct

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I tried to throw the sub in playing the Revels full range and checking for any difference with the crossover at 80hz and 120hz for that 110hz dip. I can't be absolutely certain the sub was giving me a 120hz crossover. I didn't specifically check it, but maybe it's just my room? The mic purchase was originally intended to help see if any room treatments would be helpful or not for something like this.

View attachment 123390

Being it doesn't show up as bad in your pure direct measurement, the 110Hz dip is likely either a null in your subwoofers response at that frequency (which you can fix by moving or adding subs), or a crossover cancelation (which you can fix by adjusting the subwoofer distance setting in the AVR). In my experience, Audyssey always sets the subwoofer distance wrong. It's a trial and error process, you'll just have to take a bunch of 1 foot increment measurements to see what distance produces the smoothest full range response. What version of Audyssey is this?
 
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Have you tried using REW to place the sub in the best position that gives a good response under 120 Hz? Seems like you might be able to improve things a lot in this range with good sub placement and eq. Or perhaps a 2nd sub. What sub do you have? I tried using a cheap sub(JBL500P) with my Revel F36 out of curiosity(its my workout room sub) and it did not improve extension. It did of course improve response as intended, using a pair.

I can't see your first graph for some reason, other than the tiny thumbnail

I've still got my Adire Audio Rava that I bought almost 20 years ago. It's a 12" sealed with a 250 watt class a/b (I'm pretty sure) plate amp built in. I can't really move it much in my space. It is sort of where it has to be. I will be interested to see how it specifically measures and what improvements I can make with it accordingly though. Thanks for the advice.

Being it doesn't show up as bad in your pure direct measurement, the 110Hz dip is likely either a null in your subwoofers response at that frequency (which you can fix by moving or adding subs), or a crossover cancelation (which you can fix by adjusting the subwoofer distance setting in the AVR). In my experience, Audyssey always sets the subwoofer distance wrong. It's a trial and error process, you'll just have to take a bunch of 1 foot increment measurements to see what distance produces the smoothest full range response. What version of Audyssey is this?

Good catch. I didn't notice that the dip was absent with Pure Direct. I should probably run Audyssey again to see if another calibration with it will fix that.

Only the measurements labeled as being with the sub have the sub on at all. I'm using my Revels full range without a sub for 2 channel listening. I seem to prefer it, but now that I've got this new tool I may tinker with seeing if I can get the most out of my sub. Audyssey does have that 'Mains Bypass' option that I have never really tried using too much. I believe it allows the mains to play full range without Audyssey and you still can run your sub with it. That might be interesting.

I've just been pretty pleased with the Revels full range even before I got the Parasound A23+ on them. I felt like the Denon 4500 struggled to control the Revels down low well enough. That combined with my limited space from the wall giving me just about 18" for my room made them sound a little boomy and not as defined as I hoped. The Parasound pretty much handled that. I can see that the Dynamic EQ is putting a pretty hard bump in there still that adds to the possibly 'boomy' character as I described it, but I do enjoy leaving it on for lower volume listening. My neighbors are a real pia about every little thing they can moan about. I can still enjoy listening around 70db with the EQ on and it doesn't sound like I'm missing out on much.
 
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