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Revel F208 Tower Speaker Review

I pm’d the proprietor of this website, @amirm , as his company is a dealer, to buy my pair.
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Considering the specs on this speaker, what would you all look for in a sub to pair for a large room?
You might not need a sub. If you go that direction, get at least 2 subs.
 
I pm’d the proprietor of this website, @amirm , as his company is a dealer, to buy my pair.
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Considering the specs on this speaker, what would you all look for in a sub to pair for a large room?
Depends entirely on your budget. But I’d aim for two 15” subs. For example something like two Rythmik Audio F15HP should do nicely.
 
I pm’d the proprietor of this website, @amirm , as his company is a dealer, to buy my pair.
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Considering the specs on this speaker, what would you all look for in a sub to pair for a large room?
If space and finances allow, I would recommend using four (maybe SVS) subs. Despite other possible failings, Audioholics do some good reviews around sub use and placement. And with a sub in each corner of your large room, you will hear the rewards. With a pair of F208's integrated, I doubt that you could want for more.

Good luck
 
If space and finances allow, I would recommend using four (maybe SVS) subs. Despite other possible failings, Audioholics do some good reviews around sub use and placement. And with a sub in each corner of your large room, you will hear the rewards. With a pair of F208's integrated, I doubt that you could want for more.

Good luck
Technically corners aren’t usually the best places to put subwoofers at. The most optimal would be the center of each wall. But along three or four walls would be good too.
 
Technically corners aren’t usually the best places to put subwoofers at. The most optimal would be the center of each wall. But along three or four walls would be good too.
As they go to great lengths to demonstrate on Audioholics, it really does optimise base performance. As counter-intuitive as that sounds. I tried various options and would whole heartedly recommend others give it a go.
 
This is researched by Todd Welti: https://www.harman.com/documents/multsubs_0.pdf

From the conclusion: "One subwoofer at each wall midpoint is the best in terms of Std, Max-ave and Max-min but does not support low frequencies particularly well. Two subwoofers, at opposing wall midpoints, performs very nearly as well as four at the midpoints and gives a much better LF factor. One subwoofer in each corner also has good low frequency support, but does not perform quite as well as one subwoofer at each wall midpoint, in terms of Std, Max-ave and Max-min. If cost and aesthetics are considered, subwoofers at 2 wall midpoints is preferred."
 
This is researched by Todd Welti: https://www.harman.com/documents/multsubs_0.pdf

From the conclusion: "One subwoofer at each wall midpoint is the best in terms of Std, Max-ave and Max-min but does not support low frequencies particularly well. Two subwoofers, at opposing wall midpoints, performs very nearly as well as four at the midpoints and gives a much better LF factor. One subwoofer in each corner also has good low frequency support, but does not perform quite as well as one subwoofer at each wall midpoint, in terms of Std, Max-ave and Max-min. If cost and aesthetics are considered, subwoofers at 2 wall midpoints is preferred."

Hi,


I hope this helps. You'll need to watch it to the end when our key concerns here are addressed in the wider context.

There are also various associated, alternative papers and reviews that follow the same advice.

Good luck
 
I have old Naim NAC A5 speaker wire from my previous Naim 42.5/140 system that's already snaic'd (sic... lol.. old naim pun there) through the walls. IIRC, it's low capacitance, high inductance cable. Would that be fine for the 208's? I found these stats from a dealer:

The specs for Naim NACA5:


Capacitance (max): 16 pF / meter
Inductance (min): 1 uH / meter
Resistance: 9 milliohms / meter
 
I have old Naim NAC A5 speaker wire from my previous Naim 42.5/140 system that's already snaic'd (sic... lol.. old naim pun there) through the walls. IIRC, it's low capacitance, high inductance cable. Would that be fine for the 208's? I found these stats from a dealer:

The specs for Naim NACA5:


Capacitance (max): 16 pF / meter
Inductance (min): 1 uH / meter
Resistance: 9 milliohms / meter
Yes
 
For those with F208's, do you run them full range or do you cross them over with your sub for music and/or movies? If you crossover, do you cross at 80Hz or do you go lower?
 
I run them full range for 2 channel and for HT have tried running them full range and also crossed to subs at 80 Hz. There isn't much difference but the subs are LFE so now run the F208s full range, even with HT.
 
For those with F208's, do you run them full range or do you cross them over with your sub for music and/or movies? If you crossover, do you cross at 80Hz or do you go lower?
In the AVR, I set the crossover to 40 Hz, which is there the 208s start to drop off (-3 db at 31 Hz). I use this for music and movies. I have a dac on the way and this will change once it arrives.
 
For those with F208's, do you run them full range or do you cross them over with your sub for music and/or movies? If you crossover, do you cross at 80Hz or do you go lower?
60hz works best for the 208's in my setup. I use 80hz for the C208 center, 110 to 120 hz for surround / back and we run 3 subs.
 
Crossovering the 208's at 80 Hz is almost a criminal offense. They don't need a sub. My marriage to subwoofers dissolved into an acrimonious divorce.
I bet they do have great bass. I’m guessing some still would want a sub for high output/low distortion down to 20hz (or even lower). In particular for movies but some music reaches down there too and If you like to play those low frequencies subs are almost required. I would guess though many would and are quite happy with them without subs for most listening levels and don’t really care about that 20-30hz output.
 
I bet they do have great bass. I’m guessing some still would want a sub for high output/low distortion down to 20hz (or even lower). In particular for movies but some music reaches down there too and If you like to play those low frequencies subs are almost required. I would guess though many would and are quite happy with them without subs for most listening levels and don’t really care about that 20-30hz output.
I have heard that story for decades. By definition, 20 hz is incapable of low distortion. I don’t need need a sub for Jurassic Park "special effects." So tired of the organ music nonsense requirement for music or anything. Subs are for the Harley crowd. Or the giant unnecessary pickup for Walmart grocery shopping.
 
I have heard that story for decades. By definition, 20 hz is incapable of low distortion. I don’t need need a sub for Jurassic Park "special effects." So tired of the organ music nonsense requirement for music or anything. Subs are for the Harley crowd. Or the giant unnecessary pickup for Walmart grocery shopping.
I really like my JL Audio e112 in combination with the F208. I’ve heard several people comment how the F208 really doesn’t have the grunt in the lower register without the need for a subwoofer — even how the specs would indicate that it should go pretty damn low on its own (-3dB@31Hz, -10dB@23Hz).
 
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