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Repairing Klipsch Stadium wifi speaker - possible?

Freighter

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TLDR:
- Orange wifi light blinks, Klipsch claims it's wifi problem
- It's not a wifi problem since I can verify it's connected to the wifi through my router's admin and can actually visit the device's IP address and get a landing page
- While orange wifi light is blinking, nothing works, including buttons and wired connections
- Once in a blue moon it powers on, the orange wifi light stops blinking, and it works normally. So it's not completely bricked. However upon power cycling it goes back to blinking and not working for weeks or months
- Would like to repair it somehow, but I'm not sure what component could be causing this kind of defect/behavior

So first of a short history. I bought a Klipsch Stadium wifi speaker which after a while started having problems. Often when turning the speaker on, the orange wifi light on the front would flash quickly. According to the manual this means wifi problems and the manual suggests a reset. At first this problem infrequently, but often the speaker would just power and work on as normally. It started happening more often, until at some point it never started up correctly anymore and always showed the orange blinking light. When this light is blinking NOTHING works, it doesn't respond to any button presses and it won't play any music even over wired connections. At the time Klipsch support said it was a wifi problem, I of course tried all their steps, reset, etc but in the end nothing worked and I gave up out of exhaustion.

However, at some point I discovered that it's not a wifi problem at all, because in my router admin I could actually see the Stadium connected to the wifi, and I could even visit it's firmware update landing page if I typed in it's IP address in the browser - this is while the orange wifi light would be blinking and the speaker refuses to function. However it apparently IS connected to the wifi and so the orange blinking light must mean something else. However the manual isn't helpful, and neither is Klipsch support - they straight up refuse to give any real support on this product. (Bad company, avoid in the future)

Another twist, after a few months I decided to give it a try again in the garage. To my surprise the Stadium turned on, the wifi light started blinking orange for about 10 seconds, then turned solid orange and... it worked! I could AirPlay to it using my phone, it sounded great and worked perfectly. However since I wanted it in the house, not the garage, I moved it and... well, in the house it stopped working again. Back to the blinking orange wifi problem. I tried it again in the garage one more time and now there it also had the same problem again.

However it does give a little extra information; namely that it's not completely bricked. All the components on it *can* sort of work, since it's actually functioned (if ever so briefly) correctly earlier today. I however have no idea what component might be causing this extremely inconsistent behaviour. Based on forum post it seems like some other users keeping it off the power for a long time (weeks) and plugging it back in can cause it to temporarily start working again. Does anybody with some electronics knowledge have an idea what component might be the culprit and how it might be repaired?

I included some photographs of the internals of the speaker.
 

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Doodski

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Does anybody with some electronics knowledge have an idea what component might be the culprit and how it might be repaired?
This is a repair that would be annoyingly difficult because of a lack of service literature and probably a lack of parts too. What is the model of this unit?
 
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Freighter

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This is a repair that would be annoyingly difficult because of a lack of service literature and probably a lack of parts too. What is the model of this unit?
It's a Klipsch Stadium, I don't think it has any additional model identifiers. The sticker on the inside says h37stadium00086 - but that doesn't give any results in YouTube.

Another sticker says cr8702n which apparently is a 'jukebox networked media module'. However on the pictures that come up it does look slightly different then the board in the Stadium itself.
 

Doodski

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It's a Klipsch Stadium, I don't think it has any additional model identifiers. The sticker on the inside says h37stadium00086 - but that doesn't give any results in YouTube.

Another sticker says cr8702n which apparently is a 'jukebox networked media module'. However on the pictures that come up it does look slightly different then the board in the Stadium itself.
It appears to be a recent model and not a current model. The owner's manual is available online but not the service manual. Have you communicated with Klipsch to see if they provide repair service on this model? I think due to the pesky nature of the issue and the type of equipment it is that you would be best served taking it to Klipsch.
 

restorer-john

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The clue you have given (leaving it off for a while fixes the problem) suggests you have some capacitors going high in ESR/low in value in the power supply.

Leave it off for a day or two, turn it on and leave it on. If it stays on and works fine, then refuses to turn back on immediately after being turned off, it'll be secondary rail PSU caps.

1672969382248.png


But, unless you know what you are doing, be careful as the SMPS is a dangerous thing- full of big bities if you poke around the primary side (even when off and unplugged).
 
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Doodski

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I noticed you put a question mark beside the power supply. Yes, that is the power supply. @restorer-john is saying to replace caps in the power supply.
index.php
 

restorer-john

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@restorer-john is saying to replace caps in the power supply.

I'm saying he should check them, if he can. ESR when cold if he has an ESR meter. And by cold, I mean off/unplugged and cold, not warm. ESR decreases when caps get hot, which can lead many techs up the garden path. They desolder the cap to test the ESR and it tests fine, but the desoldering has heated it up enough to test fine... The overall value will be low (way under the rating for uF)
 

Doodski

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I'm saying he should check them, if he can. ESR when cold if he has an ESR meter. And by cold, I mean off/unplugged and cold, not warm. ESR decreases when caps get hot, which can lead many techs up the garden path. They desolder the cap to test the ESR and it tests fine, but the desoldering has heated it up enough to test fine... The overall value will be low (way under the rating for uF)
Any suggestion on a ESR meter? Make model?
 

kemmler3D

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Are you using a dual-band WiFi router by any chance? I.e. it uses the same SSID for 2.5 and 5Ghz? I have somewhat similar problems with some routers (EERO in my case) and devices that can't switch back and forth between 5 and 2.4 as the router deems appropriate.
 

restorer-john

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Any suggestion on a ESR meter? Make model?

There's plenty out there, I think there's some dudes in Canada who make a low cost unit. Accuracy is really not important, just the ability to do comparative measurements between the caps. Bad ones stand out like a sore-thumb.

The little PEAK ATLAS ESR70 is good.
 
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Freighter

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It appears to be a recent model and not a current model. The owner's manual is available online but not the service manual. Have you communicated with Klipsch to see if they provide repair service on this model? I think due to the pesky nature of the issue and the type of equipment it is that you would be best served taking it to Klipsch.
I have sent it in to Klipsch, and I just received it back a week later un-repaired with a letter saying it's discontinued and they are unable to service it due to no available replacement parts.

Are you using a dual-band WiFi router by any chance? I.e. it uses the same SSID for 2.5 and 5Ghz? I have somewhat similar problems with some routers (EERO in my case) and devices that can't switch back and forth between 5 and 2.4 as the router deems appropriate.
Yes, and yes I've have the 2.4ghz and 5ghz wifi bands separated. It's connecting to a purely 2.4ghz network. I'm firmly convinced this is not a wifi issue.

The clue you have given (leaving it off for a while fixes the problem) suggests you have some capacitors going high in ESR/low in value in the power supply.

Leave it off for a day or two, turn it on and leave it on. If it stays on and works fine, then refuses to turn back on immediately after being turned off, it'll be secondary rail PSU caps.

View attachment 255173

But, unless you know what you are doing, be careful as the SMPS is a dangerous thing- full of big bities if you poke around the primary side (even when off and unplugged).
Interesting. Some new information; after my initial experience earlier today I again left it in the garage for about two hours and came back to try it. Once again it powered on and played music for a few minutes. Again I tried bringing it into the house, and again it wouldn't power on correctly again. Once again, back in the garage, it again failed to work. I'm curious if it works again tomorrow morning. This could be the thing you said about the capacitors going high in ESR/low in value in the power supply? Does that have something to do with temperature maybe (it's much colder in the garage, and I assume the power supply heats up after playing for a few minutes). Or is that completely unrelated.

Is this something an audio repair shop could maybe help with, even without technical schematics?
 

restorer-john

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Are you using a dual-band WiFi router by any chance? I.e. it uses the same SSID for 2.5 and 5Ghz? I have somewhat similar problems with some routers (EERO in my case) and devices that can't switch back and forth between 5 and 2.4 as the router deems appropriate.

I've run into issues like that myself
 

Doodski

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The little PEAK ATLAS ESR70 is good.
ESR meter would be ace for sure although for what it is worth this guy could replace the caps for $30+ and no messing with a meter that may never get used again.
O' nice! They have a semiconductor tester with curve tracer.
 
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Freighter

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I've run into issues like that myself
Thank you for the replies about the caps and ESR that is very helpful. but I don't want to get off topic too much and delve into wifi issues, I've done extensive testing and support with Klipsch and I am sure it's not a wifi issue. Besides I can actually confirm it, because as I stated in my post, the Stadium actually DOES connect to the wifi. I can simply see it in my router and I can also acces its IP address and reach the firmware update landing page. It's connected to the wifi, that's not the issue.
 

Doodski

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Is this something an audio repair shop could maybe help with, even without technical schematics?
They can help although in a situation like this most techs will shotgun it it and if no results they will pass. It's really good that it powers on for awhile. It gives some sense of what is good or bad. Are you good with a soldering iron and do you have a decent one for electronic work? Do you have rosin core solder and solder wick or a solder sucker? You will need those to go further.
 

Doodski

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@Freighter if you want to pursue the repair yourself we (I can.) can guide you through replacing caps and advise on what you need and need to do.
 

kemmler3D

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Thank you for the replies about the caps and ESR that is very helpful. but I don't want to get off topic too much and delve into wifi issues, I've done extensive testing and support with Klipsch and I am sure it's not a wifi issue. Besides I can actually confirm it, because as I stated in my post, the Stadium actually DOES connect to the wifi. I can simply see it in my router and I can also acces its IP address and reach the firmware update landing page. It's connected to the wifi, that's not the issue.
What is the expected behavior after it connects to wifi?

I mentioned the dual-band thing because I have had a handful of instances where a device will connect to wifi but basically won't do anything (e.g. Chromecast audio, wifi printer) because it isn't compatible with single-SSID dual-band. If you are using that type of router, I might try something else.

Your comment about it working after you went into the garage prompted that question. Going further from the router would tend to force it to connect to the 2.4ghz band, which the speaker is definitely compatible with. It's not definitely compatible with 5. With a dual-band router, the speaker might be unable to get onto the correct band when it's within range of 5Ghz, which would lead to a situation where the router sees the speaker but the speaker is unable to communicate with the network, which wouldn't conflict with your description.

You would also expect it to VERY OCCASIONALLY connect to 2.4ghz (and start working for like 10 minutes per month, or something) while it's range of 5ghz if there's some random interference that temporarily weakens the 5ghz signal.

The Stadium is from 2013 and doesn't mention which WiFi frequencies it's compatible with, which tells me it's very likely not compatible with 5Ghz.

If you do have a dual-band router, the fast way to check this would be to turn off 5ghz in the router settings if possible, or try a different router that doesn't broadcast the same SSID for both bands.

So, if you have a dual band router this might be the cause, although if you've already run that possibility down, sorry for hammering on it.

If you don't have a dual-band router than this whole theory is moot and you should go back to replacing caps. :)
 
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Freighter

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What is the expected behavior after it connects to wifi?

I mentioned the dual-band thing because I have had a handful of instances where a device will connect to wifi but basically won't do anything (e.g. Chromecast audio, wifi printer) because it isn't compatible with single-SSID dual-band. If you are using that type of router, I might try something else.

Your comment about it working after you went into the garage prompted that question. Going further from the router would tend to force it to connect to the 2.4ghz band, which the speaker is definitely compatible with. It's not definitely compatible with 5. With a dual-band router, the speaker might be unable to get onto the correct band when it's within range of 5Ghz, which would lead to a situation where the router sees the speaker but the speaker is unable to communicate with the network, which wouldn't conflict with your description.

You would also expect it to VERY OCCASIONALLY connect to 2.4ghz (and start working for like 10 minutes per month, or something) while it's range of 5ghz if there's some random interference that temporarily weakens the 5ghz signal.

The Stadium is from 2013 and doesn't mention which WiFi frequencies it's compatible with, which tells me it's very likely not compatible with 5Ghz.

If you do have a dual-band router, the fast way to check this would be to turn off 5ghz in the router settings if possible, or try a different router that doesn't broadcast the same SSID for both bands.

So, if you have a dual band router this might be the cause, although if you've already run that possibility down, sorry for hammering on it.

If you don't have a dual-band router than this whole theory is moot and you should go back to replacing caps. :)
Thanks for the reply. I am aware of this as a possible issue, however as stated in earlier posts I have my 2.4ghz and 5ghz bands separated with a unique SSID, so the Stadium is connecting exclusively to the 2.4ghz band. I’ve also previously tried turning off 5ghz completely, with no change. Finally I tried using an older router I had lying around that only has 2.4ghz and that also didn’t work. Additionally, under all circumstances, when I power on the Stadium After a few minutes I can see that the router assigns it an IP address and I can access it’s IP address through the browser - I will get a Klipsch landing page with the ability to upload a firmware update file (of which there are none available).

@Freighter if you want to pursue the repair yourself we (I can.) can guide you through replacing caps and advise on what you need and need to do.

Depending on the level of risk, I would be interested. I don’t solder myself but my partner can. However he says he’s never replaced caps and would need instructions on how to do that safely. He would find it interesting to try though. How complex would you say the replacement would be? Is it a relatively simple repair, or rather more advanced?
 

Doodski

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Thanks for the reply. I am aware of this as a possible issue, however as stated in earlier posts I have my 2.4ghz and 5ghz bands separated with a unique SSID, so the Stadium is connecting exclusively to the 2.4ghz band. I’ve also previously tried turning off 5ghz completely, with no change. Finally I tried using an older router I had lying around that only has 2.4ghz and that also didn’t work. Additionally, under all circumstances, when I power on the Stadium After a few minutes I can see that the router assigns it an IP address and I can access it’s IP address through the browser - I will get a Klipsch landing page with the ability to upload a firmware update file (of which there are none available).



Depending on the level of risk, I would be interested. I don’t solder myself but my partner can. However he says he’s never replaced caps and would need instructions on how to do that safely. He would find it interesting to try though. How complex would you say the replacement would be? Is it a relatively simple repair, or rather more advanced?
It is going to a graduated troubleshooting experience in that the low hanging fruit will be picked off firstly and as things become more complicated they will eventually reach a point of determining that it's junk material.

Troubleshooting without schematics and parts is always a crapshoot.

So... this will probably require at a minimum:

1) (Do the visual inspection) Screwdrivers to take the power supply out and inspect it for leaky capacitors, bad solder or anything unusual to the eye. Use a magnifier if you have one.
1b) (Do the visual inspection) Remove the amp PCB and visually inspect for anything.
1c) Perform re-soldering as required and repair failed parts if req'd.
2) (Capacitor diagnosis) If nothing bad found visually then use a multimeter and a ESR meter to meter out the power supply capacitors and power supply by unsoldering stuff and then connecting probes and using the meter or just replace the capacitors and be done with them without buying meters.
3) (Test for change) Reinstall all connectors and PCBs and power ON and test for operation.
4) If proper operation end or if not then go to #5. :D
5) New flow chart required...lol.
 
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MaxwellsEq

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Aside from any electronic fixes mentioned by others, it might be worth assigning it a fixed IP via DHCP on your router with a lease set to infinitely long. I've seen some media devices have serious WiFi issues, refusing to connect if they can't have the address they think is theirs for eternity but was actually assigned dynamically.
 
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