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Recommendations for Music Production PC

I read somewhere that you get better performance with a separate video card, rather than the onboard one, which is why I included it. I had a good one in my old machine, because I also used it for video editing. Just wondering if it's worth it. How much of a performance boost does it give if a separate card is handling the video. (The only video that the new machine will be displaying is the UI for Cakewalk and Musescore.) Thanks.
You might save some CPU cycles that can be used for audio processing, and there are a few audio plugins that use the GPU for processing too, but in your case I don't think it will be a big deal.

One thing to consider is getting an older GPU that was high end a few years ago. The raw performance increase in GPUs over the past 7-8 years is "only" about 100% and so you can spend a little on a secondhand one, maybe underclock it to lower heat/fan, and have all the video capabilities you need. Alternately sometimes older GPUs get "silent" versions, I had one in my audio PC some years ago.
 
Yep. Mostly this kind of "fighting the system" is impractical.
I had been using Windows 10 LTSC for a while. Then I needed a feature that was not part of LTSC. Officially you cannot switch from LTSC to the SAC (Semi-Annual Channel) but I think I found a loophole and did not have to reinstall all my apps.

In general I get the gist of wanting a "normal" Windows (like it used to be). I don't like Microsoft shoving OneDrive and forced online Login down people's throats.

So far, I've been happy with Windows 11 Enterprise - it allows you to disable most of the stuff that you cannot with lesser editions (like telemetry). But even here, the settings regularly reset. I am using https://www.oo-software.com/en/shutup10 to apply the settings and I have a scheduled task that constantly re-applies them, because Microsoft will silently reset them. I run the task at startup, at login, at remote login, at shutdown, at screen unlock :D just whenever I can.

I feel that Microsoft is going too far with these things. Already there are several stripped down Windows versions floating around. At the moment, similarly to LTSC it might not be worth the headache, but if they keep pestering people with their stuff I'm pretty sure a proper debloated Windows version will emerge.

At the moment I use

https://github.com/valinet/ExplorerPatcher + https://github.com/Open-Shell/Open-Shell-Menu

To keep that classic windows feel. I also delay the quality updates updates by 14 days and the feature updates for a year. This way I usually don't encouter any problems (it seems patches that break things have been increasing in the last years).

Anyway LTSC is a possibility, but the risk of having to re-install everything when wanting to switch makes it unattractive for me.

I read somewhere that you get better performance with a separate video card, rather than the onboard one, which is why I included it. I had a good one in my old machine, because I also used it for video editing. Just wondering if it's worth it. How much of a performance boost does it give if a separate card is handling the video. (The only video that the new machine will be displaying is the UI for Cakewalk and Musescore.) Thanks.
The iGPUs that are inside the CPUs nowadays are sufficient if you're not gaming. Any of them should have no issues playing back 4k material for example. You can always add a dedicated GPU later if necessary. I would not spend money on a dedicated GPU unless you know you need one. Smaller cards like an RTX 3050 use the PCIe power from the board (up to 75W). Beefy GPUs will require a big PSU and you will need fitting cables to be able to connect additional power. When buying an OEM-PC make sure they come with the cables or that you can later buy some. PSU pin layouts have no standard, so you cannot simply take any cable and assume it will work.
 
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Okay, now I'm confused. Is it possible to legally buy and install an LTCS version on my old system or the new? Can I buy a new pc that comes with it or has it installed? (I asked HP and they said "no", but their people I have gotten other things wrong when I've asked, so I don't know if I can trust them.
 
Another loose idea: take the Windows 10 machine offline when support ends and use another for "online duties?
IDK if it is possible for your workflow, but would "neutralize" the end of support issue.
 
Okay, now I'm confused. Is it possible to legally buy and install an LTCS version on my old system or the new? Can I buy a new pc that comes with it or has it installed? (I asked HP and they said "no", but their people I have gotten other things wrong when I've asked, so I don't know if I can trust them.
Where are you located? I asked ChatGPT and this was the result:


Thanks to a 2012 ruling by the European Court of Justice (CJEU):

Used software licenses can be resold, including volume licenses, as long as:

- The license was originally sold in the EU,
- The original owner no longer uses it (license is “exhausted”),
- The software was fully paid for (not leased/subscription),
- The license is perpetual (not time-limited SaaS).

This ruling applies across the EU/EEA and makes it legal for companies like usedSoft, Wiresoft, and others to sell pre-owned volume licenses — including LTSC editions.

In the US, things are very different:

Microsoft's licensing terms are legally binding, and:

- Volume licenses are not transferrable under Microsoft’s terms.
- The first-sale doctrine doesn't apply clearly to software licenses because they are considered licensed, not sold.
- Microsoft and US courts have successfully blocked unauthorized resales of volume licenses.

So while you can find LTSC keys in US marketplaces, they are often:

- Against Microsoft’s licensing terms,
- Potentially flagged or revoked,
- Risky for businesses (audit risk, compliance issues).

LTSC is available exclusively via Microsoft’s Volume Licensing programs (e.g. Open License, MPSA, CSP). These typically have a minimum of 5 licenses. You’ll need to work with a Microsoft authorized reseller or CSP partner to obtain it. Business eligibility and volume requirements apply – not sold to individuals via Microsoft Store.
 
Can anyone recommend a safe, reliable debloating tool for Windows 11? Someone on ASR recommended something like that a year or two ago and it worked brilliantly on my laptop. Now my desktop really needs it but I can't recall what it was.
 
Another loose idea: take the Windows 10 machine offline when support ends and use another for "online duties?
IDK if it is possible for your workflow, but would "neutralize" the end of support issue.
That was my original idea. I'd either buy a Linux box for my main PC and convert the current one (with the i5 processor) to run music software off-line, or buy a new music pc (for off-line use) and try to figure out how to run Win 11 without a Microsft account when forced to upgrade.

Alternatively, I could try installing Linux on the hybrid drive on my main pc -- if Windows will allow me to do so and dual boot (I've read opinions saying that it won't) -- and, if everything works, overwrite the system drive with that installation. Then I could just buy whatever I want for the Windows PC and keep it off-line. The biggest issue in that scenario (or any scenario that involves using Linux) is whether I can find drivers for my Wacom tablet and printers -- and that doesn't look good at the moment.
 
Whatever you do, be sure to clone your system drive first (yes everyone knows but many forget...)

I have two dual boot PCs, one with Linux Mint (online) and Windows 10 (offline), and one with Linux Mint and Windows 11.
To take Windows offline, just disable the NIC in device manager.
Each of my OS has a dedicated SSD (NVM-E for Windows and SATA for Linux).
A hybrid drive is just snappier at system start, but then it acts as a normal HDD.
Even a SATA SSD is much faster, let alone NVM-E, and they aren't that expensive any more.
The hybrid drive can even be cloned directly to an SSD even without turning your PC on.
Then swap drives, and you're good to go with your "new old" Windows, before you start with setting up the dual boot.

Dual boot installation is simple, just follow the default options most of the time, the only move where something can go wrong is the partitioning - I would recommend seeing some youtube videos on how to do it properly. Another option is to work with virtual machines, but it requires extra RAM.
 
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Probaby it passed somewhere here but is their a simple way to upgrade my original Windows 10 to 11 despite Windows informed me that the Intel I5 is not sufficient ( thing is Lightning fast) an TMP 2.0 is not recognised. So found some information that i could add a line in my re-edit could by pass TMP 2.0.


After that I expect i get a a message that my I5 proccesor is not supported. Than i have probably install Windows 10 again that cost a lot of time or i have toske image before:facepalm:
lot of hassel. Any advise where i can find an simple information how to covert? Reason for upgrade is certainly not the current speed but future security or other critical updates.

Laptop: Lenovo Thinkpad i5-3320M(3.3GHz) 8GB RAM 2TB SSD
 
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I am reluctant to resort to "tricks", because MS might "kill" such installations at any time (and probably will one day).
For offline use, one might as well keep Windows 10 and install Linux in dualboot for "online duties" (see above).

BTW: Not only SecureBoot is the limitation, also several CPUs, including not so old ones.
 
According to WiseCleaner's free Win 11 compatibility checker, it says my system is compatible.

I remember seeing a youtube video about how to upgrade without creating a Microsoft account, but I think it involved installing another piece of software first (which is fine by me, if I can find it again). I think I may wait until closer to the deadline, to make sure the third party debloaters and uprgade suppressors are up to date before I do.

I think I mentioned Sledgehammer, which is what I use to prevent upgrades. It's better than the one I was using before, which I had to keep checking and updating. Just a one-time install and I never had to bother with it again. I don't know enough about it to recommend it for everyone, but it works for me.
 
So, if you "unprevent" updates, you should be able to do an in-place upgrade, which should run without problems, provided you have first installed all updates for Windows 10. On the other hand, if you plan to take windows 10 offline, you don't really need it, except for one situation: Should you need to setup Windows 10 from scratch in the future on this machine, MS might not activate it (obsolete).

My take would be:
  • backup
  • unblock updates for Windows 10 and install them
  • mirror the system drive to an SSD and swap the drives (the HDD is your fallback just in case)
  • do the in-place upgrade and install the subsequent Windows 11 updates
...and then you don't even need to take the PC offline.
 
I am reluctant to resort to "tricks", because MS might "kill" such installations at any time (and probably will one day).
For offline use, one might as well keep Windows 10 and install Linux in dualboot for "online duties" (see above).

BTW: Not only SecureBoot is the limitation, also several CPUs, including not so old ones.
I'm with you keeping windows 10 probably off line. I really find it to idiot to exclude these kind of perfect working laptops. let these laptops update an let put Microsoft a disclaimer in. But that adds not up to their profebility i guess rather than dump a perfect working laptop sick.
 
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I am keeping my "incompatibles" anyway, one as an offline HTPC and one as an offline database of my former patients.
But none of these is a laptop. I've converted my mother's laptop to Linux and would do the same with mine (but mine has Windows 11).

MS shot themselves in the foot with these requirements IMHO.
 
At this point we're getting into the kind of stuff where you either don't need my help if you can make these things happen yourself, or you shouldn't be bothering with techincal complications you may have problems maintaining yourself. If you need help with basic system hardware configuration, I'm not sure custom tweaked OS options are a good idea.

Short version, just stick some more RAM and SSD in your current system and upgrade to windows 11, or get a new windows 11 system that has more SSD and RAM, as well as a more powerful CPU.

Linux, or odd windows configuations are for hobbyists who happen to be technical experts.
 
Reviving this thread because my circumstances have changed and I have to make this work on a much tighter budget. I'm looking at a prebuilt system that was regarded as pretty decent not that long ago and wondering if it would be sufficient for my needs, which by today's DAW standards are pretty modest (most of the work on the files I will be finishing off was done about 20 years on a DAW much more primative than this one):


Any feeback welcome. Thanks.
 
IDK how tight is tight, but anyway - at least in Germany there are currently many good refurbished PCs available, business laptops and PCs or workstations

(sorted from most expensive down to avoid the "plankton"):

 
best way to do this I found was to make a build similar to a high end gaming pc but without the gfx card being such a focus. shift the attention more towards the ram and a processor which might be best suited. that was how I approached it a few years back.
 
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