Recommandation : Stereo DAC + Headphone Amp

[Daaadou]

Hey everyone,

I need to replace my actual pre amp, a Rotel RC 1590. It is teaming up with his big brother, a RB 1590 (power amp).
I'm very happy with the RB but not that much with the RC, it is very sensitive to the electrical network perturbations (I live in an old building). I even had an exchange with a new one from B&W but same noises, it looks like it is a known issue with these units. Other than the fact I can sometimes hear some noises from the network, the device is really neat but that's enough, I do not want to hear these pops and hisses once in a while.
Anyways.

So I'm looking for a new Stereo DAC that could do the job, I need it to have a nice headphone output since I listen to my music and movies at night when my wife is reading.
Sources are a Panasonic UB9000 blu ray player via a coaxial cable (was using RCA with the RC) and a chromecast audio to stream Music Services and TuneIn via an optical connection. I also have a PC so PC USB is necessary. I would also like to be able to connect the TV through an optical cable.

I have seen two viable options at this time and was wondering if you could get me some other ideas and give me some advices.
I have the RME ADI-2 and the Okto DAC Stéréo on my wishlist. They both score high producing a very clean signal conversion, they output the correct voltage for my RB and they have a superb headphone output available.
The latter one is not really an option since it seems to take forever to get one and there are some features on the RME that looks really interesting (the loudness option).

Do I miss anything ? When considering the RME device, I will probably need an "optical hub" to get more sources. How do you guys do to hook up more sources ?
Are there any advantages of the pro FS R version over the "basic" ADI-2 ? It is far more expensive.

Sorry for the english, I am a French speaker.

Thanks for reading, all advices are welcome, I hope I am in the correct section of the forum.

 

[Jimbob54]

Hey everyone,

I need to replace my actual pre amp, a Rotel RC 1590. It is teaming up with his big brother, a RB 1590 (power amp).
I'm very happy with the RB but not that much with the RC, it is very sensitive to the electrical network perturbations (I live in an old building). I even had an exchange with a new one from B&W but same noises, it looks like it is a known issue with these units. Other than the fact I can sometimes hear some noises from the network, the device is really neat but that's enough, I do not want to hear these pops and hisses once in a while.
Anyways.

So I'm looking for a new Stereo DAC that could do the job, I need it to have a nice headphone output since I listen to my music and movies at night when my wife is reading.
Sources are a Panasonic UB9000 blu ray player via a coaxial cable (was using RCA with the RC) and a chromecast audio to stream Music Services and TuneIn via an optical connection. I also have a PC so PC USB is necessary. I would also like to be able to connect the TV through an optical cable.

I have seen two viable options at this time and was wondering if you could get me some other ideas and give me some advices.
I have the RME ADI-2 and the Okto DAC Stéréo on my wishlist. They both score high producing a very clean signal conversion, they output the correct voltage for my RB and they have a superb headphone output available.
The latter one is not really an option since it seems to take forever to get one and there are some features on the RME that looks really interesting (the loudness option).

Do I miss anything ? When considering the RME device, I will probably need an "optical hub" to get more sources. How do you guys do to hook up more sources ?
Are there any advantages of the pro FS R version over the "basic" ADI-2 ? It is far more expensive.

Sorry for the english, I am a French speaker.

Thanks for reading, all advices are welcome, I hope I am in the correct section of the forum.

Unless you are looking to record something digital to analog the RME pro does seem overkill just to get extra inputs. I would get an optical/toslink hub (look to be around £20 to £50 on amazon UK) and the ADI 2 DAC. I have it, its great. There are less costly options that depending on how much power your headphones need might suffice- the SMSL M500 might do, reviewed https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-m500-dac-and-hp-amp-review.9606/ and a few others , Sabaj, Topping etc.

Never used a purely optical hub but have a couple of toslink/ coax converters which would also sort you out- put the Blu ray and TV in optical and coax and output to one output https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0791YG1X4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Never bought an optical

 

[Daaadou]

Thanks for your reply. Yes the pro version seems totally overkill.

Here you go, I had not even noticed that there was this SMSL M500 with a headphone input, I probably only looked at the 400 version...It seems like a totally valid option! And it costs 400 euros.
My headphones are the Focal Clear Pro so not much power required I guess.

A very interesting option you just proposed, especially since it costs half the price (!), though, the RME has overwhelmed me with a whole bunch of different features, the adaptative loudness, auto dimming, eq possibilities.
Plus, I won't lie, I like the fact it is a german product, their brand is quite strong, euro pride maybe... But it is probably silly, smsl product shall be as sturdy as the RME I guess.

 

[Daaadou]

I forgot another parameter.
My actual pre amp triggers the power amp when turning on and off.
How is it possible to manage that with the RME for example?

 

[Jimbob54]

Thanks for your reply. Yes the pro version seems totally overkill.

Here you go, I had not even noticed that there was this SMSL M500 with a headphone input, I probably only looked at the 400 version...It seems like a totally valid option! And it costs 400 euros.
My headphones are the Focal Clear Pro so not much power required I guess.

A very interesting option you just proposed, especially since it costs half the price (!), though, the RME has overwhelmed me with a whole bunch of different features, the adaptative loudness, auto dimming, eq possibilities.
Plus, I won't lie, I like the fact it is a german product, their brand is quite strong, euro pride maybe... But it is probably silly, smsl product shall be as sturdy as the RME I guess.

The beauty of the rme is no nagging doubts you could get better ;-) what that is worth is up to you

 

[AnalogSteph]

OP, how are you connecting the RC-1590 and RB-1590 now? I am seeing a big fat 3-pin IEC power connector on the back of the RB, and together with your description "it is very sensitive to the electrical network perturbations" I am very much suspecting that you've got a ground loop issue.

First of all, I would use balanced (XLR) cabling between RC and RB whatever happens, this is very much necessary.
If that still doesn't get you peace and quiet, use a Toslink cable for the UB9000 (most likely to be effective) or use its balanced outputs with the RC-1590 balanced input.
Avoid using RCA inputs if you can, except for floating devices like a record player or portable DAP.

Only if none of all this helps would I conclude that the RC may have what's called a Pin 1 Problem in the pro audio world... at which point you are in fact better off getting rid of it. A product in this price range should obviously not need any re-engineering on part of the user, and fixing this issue in such a complex device is going to be much harder than for, say, an active speaker. (Note, the RB could in principle be affected as well. This would require a good hard look at the input jack board.)

You may still have a chance of taming it by using unshielded (UTP) network cable and a USB isolator (though you shouldn't have to if the device is constructed properly).

While the ADI-2 DAC is an excellent product and well worth having, I would want to make sure the existing equipment is being used properly before flushing substantial amounts of money down the drain.

 

[Daaadou]

OP, how are you connecting the RC-1590 and RB-1590 now? I am seeing a big fat 3-pin IEC power connector on the back of the RB, and together with your description "it is very sensitive to the electrical network perturbations" I am very much suspecting that you've got a ground loop issue.

First of all, I would use balanced (XLR) cabling between RC and RB whatever happens, this is very much necessary.
If that still doesn't get you peace and quiet, use a Toslink cable for the UB9000 (most likely to be effective) or use its balanced outputs with the RC-1590 balanced input.
Avoid using RCA inputs if you can, except for floating devices like a record player or portable DAP.

Only if none of all this helps would I conclude that the RC may have what's called a Pin 1 Problem in the pro audio world... at which point you are in fact better off getting rid of it. A product in this price range should obviously not need any re-engineering on part of the user, and fixing this issue in such a complex device is going to be much harder than for, say, an active speaker. (Note, the RB could in principle be affected as well. This would require a good hard look at the input jack board.)

You may still have a chance of taming it by using unshielded (UTP) network cable and a USB isolator (though you shouldn't have to if the device is constructed properly).

While the ADI-2 DAC is an excellent product and well worth having, I would want to make sure the existing equipment is being used properly before flushing substantial amounts of money down the drain.

Hello,

First of all, thanks a lot for being so helpful! Especially in the way of trying to fix my stuff before getting some new one, I do appreciate that.

I have tried a couple of things to make it work but since you seem to know a bit about these kind of issues, I'll give you full details, you'll let me know.

So, RB, RC, Oled TV and the Pana are all connected to the same power strip, a professional grade Brennenstuhl with surge protector and an EMI filter.
The RB has a ground but not the RC (neither do the Pana), I have suspected all along that that could be the problem.
I have used a smartphone directly into the RB with RCA cables and I never heard any pop or crack. That's why I'm thinking this is the RC from the beginning.

I have both neat RCA connectors (audiophonics ones, shielded) and some Mogami XLR. I used the Mogami for a while but I went back to RCA because of the static noise due to the higher gain of the XLR I/Os. Basically, I can put the volume down by 10% when going XLR over RCA but you hear that speakers white noise at low volume. Not disturbing in anyway but I've considered since when plugged through RCA, the system is quieter when idle, it was nicer.
I will try again with the new unit to be sure.

Though, I have a question for you and nobody really answered when I asked previously on other boards, do you thing XLR are better for this set up? I mean I have read the RB and RC do not have a real balanced design thus making it worthless to use their balanced I/Os. Plus, a technician on a forum told me XLR requires double the electronic components to process the signal so it is not worth compared to RCA if you are not a situation with long distance between your elements. What is the reality here? I'm glad I could ask, I was still wondering what's right or wrong

I also bought a power strip that could deprive my RB for its ground, it is a little devise that turn a three pin into a two one (cost two euros) but I'm wary of using it, don't want the RB to get damaged using it with out its ground.

I can also mention I can hear these noises in the headphones as well.

The cherry on top of the cake is that I can hear with this brand new unit a very faint buzzing sound when I use the headphones (I don't recall this issue and the previous unit), that is what get me on the look for a new pre amp.
I am a bit disappointed to have to call my dealer AGAIN about this unit. The previous one got repaired (bought it used from a store, still under warranty), it took three months because of Covid (that's when I used the smartphone directly into the RB) and since I was still experiencing problems, BW said they will get me a brand new one. Kudos to them for that.

So I will try XLR today and will let you know.

 

[Daaadou]

I swapped rca with xlr, I heard one noise on the network and the faint buzz is still here.