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Purifi vs Hypex vs ICEPower

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freemansteve

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Yes, I was not clear - actual power dissipated would be "minus"!
But "efficiency" is a ratio and I somehow confabulated that in what I was trying to say. :)
 

boXem

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I would think that 'running cool' is a function of energy dissipated in the box - its temperature will relate to power-in divided by power-out (efficiency). But yes, some designs do use a lot of energy when not doing a lot, let alone at max vol....

I would think any Class-D is going to be pretty efficient compared with other common designs.
The idea of "running cool" is mainly related to the dissipated power at idle. Because playing music means being close to idle most of the time, with random power bursts.
If one takes two class D designs each outputting 500W, A with 2.5W idling losses, B with 7W idling losses, their efficiency at full power will be almost the same (less than 1% difference), but when installed in the same environment, B will run several degrees hotter than A.
As an illustration, our case comfortably accommodate two 1ET400A while it's outside temperature becomes a bit too hot with two NC500.
 

Holmz

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Yes, I was not clear - actual power dissipated would be "minus"!
But "efficiency" is a ratio and I somehow confabulated that in what I was trying to say. :)

I knew what you meant.
If you correct the post I can delete my pedantic one?
 

marble

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Hi,
I recently acquired an used dual ICEPower 200ASC. It was on the cheap side... And then I saw the Audiophonics MPA-S250NC XLR with Hypex Ncore NC252MP.
Not sure if it is insane or not to pull the trigger, again.
BTW, price is about the same for both.
And I always wanted SOTA for my amps...
 
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Sam Ash

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I am thinking of building a 7 channel amp and a 4 channel amp using class-D modules which I think will be fun to do. Has anyone done something similar? Where can one source power-amp cases that are prefabricated for such DIY projects, I want a simple case that looks nice and is reasonably priced, a provision for rack mount brackets would be nice too. Also, where can one get all the interconnects and interfaces such as XLR and speaker binding posts. The spring type posts could be an option as long as the grip is strong for heavy gauge wires. Alternatively, I could use Speakon. There is also the AC power interface as well as status light. Features such as auto signal detect or a 12-Volt trigger would be required but I think that is associated with the module one decides to use. Last but not least, instructional material or references as well as useful tips would really help.

Are fans necessary for multi-channel builds or are the heat-sinks built onto the modules sufficient?

My main question is more related to the cases, wiring kits and interfaces but please feel free to provide additional input.
 

aaddas

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How about listening test, which one is more exciting?
 

Sokel

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How about listening test, which one is more exciting?
The one with great music,drinks and close friends having fun :)

Joke aside,I have "heard" all 3 brands and there's nothing missing or sticking out.
Choose according everything else that matters (for example if you run 110db horns choose the one with better noise measurements,or if you run speakers with big insensitive woofers in big room choose more power,or if are a barbarian like me choose durability and long warranty),you won't hear anything different in terms of sound quality.
 
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mike70

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The one with great music,drinks and close friends having fun :)

Joke aside,I have "heard" all 3 brands and there's nothing missing or sticking out.
Choose according everything else that matters (for example if you run 110db horns choose the one with better noise measurements,or if you run speakers with big insensitive woofers in big room choose more power,or if are a barbarian like me choose durability and long warranty),you won't hear anything different in terms of sound quality.

people insist to found the "magic quadrant" in electronics, but the awful truth is that in "normal" conditions every decent amplifier will sound the same.
do a controlled blind listening and you will find out ... invest in good recordings and good speakers / room correction aspects, that's where your money must go.

everything else is jewelry, illusion, marketing ... or i accept quality in components, warranty, etc ... but ... effective sound improvement over a decent amplifier? i pay to "see" it.
 

withoutsuit

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As the price is nearly the same, what is better: Purifi or new Hypex NCX500? The NCX has more power but higher distortion?
 

mike70

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As the price is nearly the same, what is better: Purifi or new Hypex NCX500? The NCX has more power but higher distortion?

Do you want the shorter answer? Buy the cheaper one ... And / or the one that gives you the best support / warranty.

All other technical arguments means nothing at an audio home application with that level of implementation.
 

rdenney

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The distortion is inaudible with Purifi and Hypex amps. Choose the one that provides the price, power and features you desire.

Rick “put that energy into selecting and setting up speakers” Denney
 

andrew

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Re ICE
Their speaker dependant response is a no-go for me in the context of classical amplification. For active speakers it's a
Re IcePower: can you elaborate on the comment on speaker dependent response?
 

Jim Creek

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There are a pile of Amps in this segment that measure poorly but are hard to surpass sonically. I'll give you two for starters. The Conrad Johnson Premier One or Krell KSA-100. Both are tough to beat sonically even by today's standards and excel in key areas such ohm stability, etc...
If these amps do measure poorly, (most tube amps do) then you say they are hard to surpass sonically, I read that as: you like the voicing of those tube Amps.

Voicing is a matter of personal taste. But the sonic performance of those amps, with regards to FR, distortion, etc. may be actually pretty poor.
 
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Sokel

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Re ICE

Re IcePower: can you elaborate on the comment on speaker dependent response?
He's probably talking about the older non- Edge version ones.
The new ones are pretty much like this:

index.php


 

Dclone

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If these amps do measure poorly, (most tube amps do) then you say they are hard to surpass sonically, I read that as: you like the voicing of those tube Amps.

Voicing is a matter of personal taste. But the sonic performance of those amps, with regards to FR, distortion, etc. may be actually pretty poor.
Well, Krell KSA 100 for sure is not a tube amp. I run five KSA 150, two MDA 300, one FPB 300cx and finally three KST 100 poweramps. Why? Because I have three two channels setups with very demanding speakers which I have to tri- and bi-amp. Infinity IRS Epsilon, two pair of Infinity RS Kappa 9 (the infamous amp killer lovely sound) and one pair of Infinity RS Kappa 8 (also have the Infinity Renessaiance 80, but that speaker is very easy to drive) I have not yet found one single class D amp that can drive my Infinitys. I would love to find one because the Krells generate an absurd amount of heat, are big, heavy and quite expensive. From what I remember the Krells measure fine. Conrad Johnson is Tube amps and tubes do colour the sound like and equalizer. Either You like or either You don´t. Krell does not colour the sound (my experience and opinion).
 

mike70

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I have not yet found one single class D amp that can drive my Infinitys
why do you say that? did you hear distortion in class D amplifiers (with competent power, obviously)?

or ... you're hearing "nice" distortion in class AB amplifiers and do you think transparent sound isn't good?

unless you made blind listening sessions, i bid for the last question
 

Dclone

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why do you say that? did you hear distortion in class D amplifiers (with competent power, obviously)?

or ... you're hearing "nice" distortion in class AB amplifiers and do you think transparent sound isn't good?

unless you made blind listening sessions, i bid for the last question
Problem is my speakers are so "hard" to drive so all of the class D amps I have borrowed from Hifi dealers to test with my setups with are "clipping" or shut them self off. My Hifi dealer knows exactly what kind of speakers and setup I have. I would prefer a class D amp if they could drive my speakers. My Krells are running very hot and are heavy and take big place plus they draw enormous amount of energy (I had to install dedicated 25 amperes powerlines in my house just for the poweramps) There is a lot of advantages with class D poweramps but I do need amps that can handle my speakers both at low and high volume without clipping or shutting themself down. Wether or not my Krells are class A or A/B is another discussion but I have only the KSA, MDA and FPB series which are class A. All my Krells can handle loads below 1 Ohm, at least according to the manuals and lot of reviews from different sources (which I am aware of that most people here do not take seriously and I tend to agree with that but, measurements are measurements...) I do not like distortion at all thats why I maybe have oversized poweramps to drive my 4 Ohm speakers which occassionally can "dip" down to 1 Ohm. There are some people that say that the speakers are poorly or bad constructed but they are constructed that way deliberately. Arnie Nudell (speaker constructor) and Dan Dàgostino (constructor of my Krell series) worked together back in the -90`s. I would really be glad to find a class D amp that can drive my Infinitys for reasons stated above. Have You ever listened to a system like mine? I doubt it because you are writing about "hearing "nice" distortion in class AB amplifiers...." Give it a try, if You can find one...
 

Matias

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Problem is my speakers are so "hard" to drive so all of the class D amps I have borrowed from Hifi dealers to test with my setups with are "clipping" or shut them self off. My Hifi dealer knows exactly what kind of speakers and setup I have. I would prefer a class D amp if they could drive my speakers. My Krells are running very hot and are heavy and take big place plus they draw enormous amount of energy (I had to install dedicated 25 amperes powerlines in my house just for the poweramps) There is a lot of advantages with class D poweramps but I do need amps that can handle my speakers both at low and high volume without clipping or shutting themself down. Wether or not my Krells are class A or A/B is another discussion but I have only the KSA, MDA and FPB series which are class A. All my Krells can handle loads below 1 Ohm, at least according to the manuals and lot of reviews from different sources (which I am aware of that most people here do not take seriously and I tend to agree with that but, measurements are measurements...) I do not like distortion at all thats why I maybe have oversized poweramps to drive my 4 Ohm speakers which occassionally can "dip" down to 1 Ohm. There are some people that say that the speakers are poorly or bad constructed but they are constructed that way deliberately. Arnie Nudell (speaker constructor) and Dan Dàgostino (constructor of my Krell series) worked together back in the -90`s. I would really be glad to find a class D amp that can drive my Infinitys for reasons stated above. Have You ever listened to a system like mine? I doubt it because you are writing about "hearing "nice" distortion in class AB amplifiers...." Give it a try, if You can find one...
Get an NC2k based amplifier and you will never ever clip it.


 
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Buckeye Amps

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One of my integrator clients has an LCR speaker setup that dips below 1ohm and he uses them for reference home theater duty (and cranks the volume to reference level minimum).

He recently tried our Purifi 7040SA monoblocks and said they are the first amp, including Class A/B ones he has used, that do not clip ever.
 
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