Purifi PTT6.5PR radiator issue

[julbo]

Running Directiva r1 variant (PTT6.5 4Ohms driver, two PTT6.5 radiators) fed from a TPA3255 amp.
I’ve observed blurting noises with bass material and noticed the diaphragm has disconnected from one of the radiators. Driver is fine.
Running this sweet speaker for 2 years, my teenage daughter has been stretching the volume to the max quite a few dance parties.
Is this a common issue?
Recommendation for a DYI fix is appreciated !
Have no inclination to send it to Purifi for a fix, shipping costs are obscene.

 

[DVDdoug]

You could try some glue but it will probably never be the same. Maybe some super glue if it just came loose from the edges like it appears. Or maybe RTV.

my teenage daughter has been stretching the volume to the max quite a few dance parties.

Yeah... usually speakers get blown at parties were a teenager or drunk person has access to the volume control. But I think it's usually a male...

Maybe a smaller amplifier or more rugged "PA speakers"? (Don't believe that popular myth that a smaller over-driven amplifier is worse.)

Is this a common issue?

I would have expected the driver to blow first... I've never heard of a passive radiator "blowing".



Turned up the music just as loud as it could go
Blew out the speakers in her daddy's radio
Eddie Money

 

[Chr1]

I'd definitely give it a go gluing it. Passive radiators are not particularly high tech. I had a similar issue with an old pair of Tannoy Dorsets and re-gluing worked fine.

Whatever glue is best for re-attaching a woofer cone to it's surround. Repaired mine many years ago, so not sure myself. Google is your friend.

I would definitely be wary of your daughter blowing a driver though. Way more problematic.

 

[FERCSA]

Why dont you send them an email or just message to Lars here then ask what kind of glue they used?
Probably you can get something similar at your local hardware store.

 

[Ktacos]

That looks easy to fix, I've repaired stuff like that with some sort of black rubber glue. Stuff smells terrible but does it's job well.

 

[Sokel]

Judging by the dent on the active driver too, I would suggest grilles, fuses and unfortunately a new radiator.
This doesn't look like it's unglued, it looks teared.

 

[Lars Risbo]

looks like tearing or peeling. Should be fixable with glue. Luckily the PRs don’t have voice coils and right fit into a tiny magnetic gap

 

[Chr1]

Honestly, I wouldn't let any (daft) youngsters anywhere near expensive hifi unsupervised.

(I was one many years ago... and I broke some stuff due to youthful volume control enthusiasm. My own mainly/thankfully.)

Reckon you got off lightly.

 

[julbo]

@Lars Risbo which glue to use? Should I gently try to detach entire diaphragm (pry loose with some heat to weaken the glue?) or patch locally? I’d assume that other places along the rim may detach in time.
[edit] went ahead and gently pulled on the diaphragm, it detached along the entire way. Most likely a local weakened/dried out glue that cracked open from the internal pressure.

 

[julbo]

Judging by the dent on the active driver too, I would suggest grilles, fuses and unfortunately a new radiator.
This doesn't look like it's unglued, it looks teared.

Dent was worse and fixed to the best of my ability, stuff is sometimes flying around and guitars have a nasty tendency to hit my drivers. Still it’s a DYI speaker and I take a lot of pride showing off these totally rad Purifis, I’d never use a grille as I find that aesthetically unpleasing.
The TI amps are active crossed over with a DSP calibrated to top at 97dB to protect the driver, did not consider the PR as a limiting factor.
It’s unglued, as others have implied I’ve got off easy

 

[Sokel]

It’s unglued, as others have implied I’ve got off easy

You're lucky then.
I would use the best silicone glue around that would totally seal it while remaining elastic and on top of that will not corrode the driver , not some glue that hardens but @Lars Risbo may have a better suggestion.

 

[Chr1]

Been reading good things about T7000 glue. Seems to be a good compromise between strength and flexibility. Relatively new, but I reckon it might be worth a look.

 

[Joe BKNY]

Finding a glue that is compatible with (and thus long lasting) a rubber-like material, especially considering that the part will be in motion, is hard. But consider that consumer oriented products are very limited in number compared with industrial products. I suggest contacting the manufacturer to ask what exactly the PR is made of, and then contacting a technical help person at 3M (or other industrial adhesive manufacturer) to ask them which of their products they recommend for the material, mentioning that it will be in motion. A glance at the range of epoxy adhesives listed on McMaster.com will illustrate my point - not that I think epoxy is the right stuff.

 

[Wolf]

I've used Aleene's Tacky Glue for a good many driver repairs. I would use it for something like this. Dip a cotton swab in the glue and slather on one surface, place the surround and hold or clamp it with a binder clip.