• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

PURIFI finally did a fully purified passive speaker design! The SPK 16 prototype is here - with a PTT tweeter

Did you order a set?

I didn’t in the end. I’m not confident of being able to get the cabinets made. Certainly my experiments suggest my skills are not up to making the front panel.

Also, I’m perpetually idle.
 
Whats the problem just milling and sanding the baffle with hand tools? If the box is made from mdf its extremely easy to sand also.
 
1000021736.jpg

This inlets for the screws at 1 and the Overall Angle at 2 is Not easy to realise with older CNC, also the rings for the tweeter, the CNC should be state of the Art modern/ percise. Otherwise to much mistakes could happen and that would cost lot of time and so more Money to make the Project Not affordable. Some reasons Why the purifi company could Order a large amount and sell the Front with the Kit.

Edit: @Jonazkur imho, at this price of the parts, cabinet should be kind of perfekt finished. If you have the Tools and skills, Go for it. But for Most of us who are no Woodworker, we would have buy tools and a lot of time, so Not realistic for me.

1000021737.jpg
 
Last edited:
View attachment 539894
This inlets for the screws at 1 and the Overall Angle at 2 is Not easy to realise with older CNC, also the rings for the tweeter, the CNC should be state of the Art modern/ percise. Otherwise to much mistakes could happen and that would cost lot of time and so more Money to make the Project Not affordable. Some reasons Why the purifi company could Order a large amount and sell the Front with the Kit.

Edit: @Jonazkur imho, at this price of the parts, cabinet should be kind of perfekt finished. If you have the Tools and skills, Go for it. But for Most of us who are no Woodworker, we would have buy tools and a lot of time, so Not realistic for me.

View attachment 539895

Very much this.

The idea was very quite enticing but the reality about the same off putting.
 
This inlets for the screws at 1 and the Overall Angle at 2 is Not easy to realise with older CNC
It would be interesting to see the real speaker baffle. AMHA the 3D model is over specified.

(2) Can be some stairs, maybe some big stairs made by a big tool. And maybe a second pass with a smaller tools to make it more smooth, but useful ?
(1) And his junction to (2) clearly miss a radius junction whose size is the radius of the tool used for finishing (2).

(3) Maybe some holes made by a drill can be sufficient ?
 
Last edited:
Some reasons Why the purifi company could Order a large amount and sell the Front with the Kit.
That's a great idea.
If that doesn't work, you could also team up and place a group order with Thomaier.
It's a German woodworking shop that specializes in speaker cabinets.
The more you order, the cheaper it gets.
Of course, you can also order individually, but that probably won't be very cheap.

 
That's a great idea.
If that doesn't work, you could also team up and place a group order with Thomaier.
It's a German woodworking shop that specializes in speaker cabinets.
The more you order, the cheaper it gets.
Of course, you can also order individually, but that probably won't be very cheap.

I wrote them but guess i did Not get a answer. Also hast the Idea to Order 10 pair or so for a group of interest people, but one Person has a lot of responsibility and risk then..
And honestly, Most of the diy Story is to save Money imho. And it get too Close to the other Brands, of course the purifi tweeter radiation is Special, but i would be Happy with other Brands too.. And the cabinet is a good way to save Money If produced in mass or easy to diy, Like the ASR Directiva Projekt.
Lars could also build a Version with the Denovo Audio knock down flat pack 15,9 l cabinet and put it on the klippel ;)
 
Last edited:
View attachment 539894
This inlets for the screws at 1 and the Overall Angle at 2 is Not easy to realise with older CNC, also the rings for the tweeter, the CNC should be state of the Art modern/ percise. Otherwise to much mistakes could happen and that would cost lot of time and so more Money to make the Project Not affordable. Some reasons Why the purifi company could Order a large amount and sell the Front with the Kit.

Edit: @Jonazkur imho, at this price of the parts, cabinet should be kind of perfekt finished. If you have the Tools and skills, Go for it. But for Most of us who are no Woodworker, we would have buy tools and a lot of time, so Not realistic for me.

View attachment 539895
The tools would prob be cheaper than have the cabinets made elsewhere and you learn at the same time. Imo its the whole point of diy.
 
I’m wondering if time has stood still on this thread…?

Has anyone received their drivers yet? And began the build.
No, I’m still waiting for the drivers to ship. I’ve filled the cabinet pieces and glued most of it together. Foam is cut. I’m just waiting for the drivers now before I glue the front baffles on. I’m happy with how the cabinets have turned out so far but it’s all new so we’ll see.
 
No, I’m still waiting for the drivers to ship. I’ve filled the cabinet pieces and glued most of it together. Foam is cut. I’m just waiting for the drivers now before I glue the front baffles on. I’m happy with how the cabinets have turned out so far but it’s all new so we’ll see.

:)

Have you any pics?
 
Whats the problem just milling and sanding the baffle with hand tools? If the box is made from mdf its extremely easy to sand also.

That wouldn't really achieve a level of machine like consistency that I think most users are after. I'd need a perfect 2" radius all around to be satisfied and not stare at the imperfections of my hand sanding all day.
 
That wouldn't really achieve a level of machine like consistency that I think most users are after. I'd need a perfect 2" radius all around to be satisfied and not stare at the imperfections of my hand sanding all day.
I don't disagree. Maybe even measureable. Only @Lars Risbo would know.
Audibly different ABX? Most likely not.
More different than the measureable difference of the actual Purifi drivers? I believe the spec of the Purifi drivers is +/- 5%.
More different than the crossover components assuming in spec? Those are definitely +/- 5% at best.
More different than the effect of imperfect interior volume due to bracing and construction vs. Actual SPK16 prototype built and measured at Purifi?

Just identifying other factors which might be the same or more significant than the perfection of the baffle.
I'm looking at the above and I'm sure I'm missing other factors and it does calm down my personal OCD thoughts on this project.
Eagerly awaiting my drivers. Should be here in a few weeks.
 
I don't disagree. Maybe even measureable. Only @Lars Risbo would know.
Audibly different ABX? Most likely not.
More different than the measureable difference of the actual Purifi drivers? I believe the spec of the Purifi drivers is +/- 5%.
More different than the crossover components assuming in spec? Those are definitely +/- 5% at best.
More different than the effect of imperfect interior volume due to bracing and construction vs. Actual SPK16 prototype built and measured at Purifi?

Just identifying other factors which might be the same or more significant than the perfection of the baffle.
I'm looking at the above and I'm sure I'm missing other factors and it does calm down my personal OCD thoughts on this project.
Eagerly awaiting my drivers. Should be here in a few weeks.

How long have you been waiting for the drivers if I may ask?
 
Just throwing this in the mix in case it is useful. I have a CNC that I use for hobbiest reasons and I would be willing to work with people (a few) to mill the baffle and perhaps baffle corners. I am in Albuquerque, NM US. I am not a machinist or a machining business, but do have 5 years experience on a Onefinity Journeyman. I am self taught, so there are still plenty of gaps in my knowledge. DM me if you want to chat about possibilities. That being said:

I spent a couple hours playing around at optimizing cutting paths last night and wanted to share some observations about why this project might not work for commercial businesses. The first is that it took me a couple hours to really get a good cut paths generated. I knew this looking at the project, but didn’t have the free “fun” time to explore until now. That’s a big hit for a business on a one off project. The machining time, even for MDF/Plywood/Hardwood is pretty high. My first roughing passes would take over an hour. I haven’t fully optimized the finishing passes, but total time looks like 2-4 hours. It is a two sided machining job meaning it takes very precise positioning while flipping the piece, that simply takes time either in the care of positioning/clamping or in the building of a jig to automate positioning/clamping, and all of that time has to paid for by just the cost of one piece.

The baffle could be redesigned to make it take significantly less time, but that would also likely impact the quality of the speaker a bit. Looking at the design, this is clearly a cost no object design. Things that I would change to make it faster while keeping the most important design features:

Make it machinable from one side. This could be done by changing the woofer cutout and countersinking. Getting rid of the countersinking is a pretty minimal savings machine time wise but would have to be done to cut the repositioning time out. The bevel of the rear woofer cutout is where most of the machine time for that side is occurring. This is because it is sloped (meaning only a tiny part of a standard flat end mill is being used and any given time) and complexly shaped. I am assuming the bevel is due to the depth of the baffle (57mm) and airflow needs. It would save a ton of machine time to step this like the tweeter, even more to redesign so it could be cut from the front, but I imagine that impacts sound quality.

Depth. The depth of the baffle (57mm) has a few consequences. First, in the US, it means gluing three pieces of MDF or plywood together to get that depth if you’re going COTS for those. It’s also an awkward size for wood slabs. The depth also causes issues in bit selection in that in the US one would normally use 1/4 or 1/8 inch. The through holes would mean picking a 1/8. The problem is 1/8 bits tend to have low overall length for strength reasons meaning the collar of the router (in my case) starts hitting the stock. This can be overcome by drilling halfway from both sides, but that increases precision requirements or by sourcing a rarer more expensive longer bit.

The front presents fewer machining issues, but the curves mean longer machining times, at least for a great finish.

Getting to a one sided machining design, would be a lot of redesign but is probably doable (by me) if one excepts the (unknown) loss of sound quality. But even just lowering the finish level could make it doable from my perspective. If the recipient is willing to sand, the design could be machined with a 1/4 inch bit and “finished” with an 1/8th. Or even just shaped with a 1/4 if the recipient agrees to drill the through holes themselves.

Anyway I am including a couple of pics of a simulated machining with just 1/4 and 1/8 bits that optimizes for minimum machine time. It is still about 2 hours on the CNC. Anyway I am interested in working with someone (a couple people) to try and figure something out. Not as a business but in the interests of developing my skills further and maybe something in barter for the time and materials.




IMG_0441.jpegIMG_0440.jpeg
 
… well, I wish you the very best of luck sir. I hope you’re able to help a few people out.

But I must say, you’ve put me off even more than I was :oops:

It sounds awfully complex.
 
… well, I wish you the very best of luck sir. I hope you’re able to help a few people out.

But I must say, you’ve put me off even more than I was :oops:

It sounds awfully complex.
It wouldn’t be too bad if one was doing 10+ in order to amortize the setup costs, even for fully machined baffles, but no matter what, for that, you are looking at 200-300 minutes of machine time per baffle.
 
Another issue I’m receiving feedback on is the roundness of the edges. Probably material costs to sand down till that level, and the rigidity of the edges. Most of the services I reach out to only allow for 15mm for the edge. I presume that would affect the sound significantly?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8854.png
    IMG_8854.png
    1.1 MB · Views: 67
Last edited:
15mm will both be measurable and audible.
You can buy 31mm radius roudover bit on aliexpress that will do the job.
31mm will still be measurable, but probably not audible anymore.
You will need to subtract the difference in radius from the baffle dimensions as well.
 
That wouldn't really achieve a level of machine like consistency that I think most users are after. I'd need a perfect 2" radius all around to be satisfied and not stare at the imperfections of my hand sanding all day.
Its not that hard and like i said mdf is super easy to sand. This is birch plywood and roundovers made by hand. Ofc if ppl arent comfortable doing by themselves, but if you do it will reward you more in the end.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4380.jpeg
    IMG_4380.jpeg
    372.5 KB · Views: 170
  • IMG_2084.jpeg
    IMG_2084.jpeg
    293.8 KB · Views: 163
:)

Have you any pics?
Sure, I’ll take a few when I get back later this week. It looks about the same but dirtier and with foam.

I’ve never thought about it before but if there’s a decent acoustic foam that can be cnc’d it would be worth getting it cut at the same time as the cabinets. I ended up cutting it on the bandsaw but I think I’d have the patience for maybe one piece a day if I had to cut it with a knife.
It’s not that hard and like i said mdf is super easy to sand. This is birch plywood and roundovers made by hand. Ofc if ppl arent comfortable doing by themselves, but if you do it will reward you more in the end.
Looks great! I would definitely consider this if I was doing a matte finish but I don’t think I could pull off a gloss.
 
Back
Top Bottom