PURIFI finally did a fully purified passive speaker design! The SPK 16 prototype is here - with a PTT tweeter

[Fidji]

Not the tweeter or 3D printed - but here are new 2way speakers based on Purifi woofers.On recent AV show in Prague it was considered one of the best sounds of the whole event. I like the nice idea for woodwork, details like terminals next to floor. Premium feel all over. I like tweeter sensitivity adjustment feature, smart solution and welcome one.

Sara - ideTone.cz

Dvoupásmová sloupová reprosoustava, která uchvátí čistotou, lehkostí, plností a transparentností zvukového projevu. Bylo tak dosaženo vhodným sladěním

idetone.cz

I know the guy behind the project - he is one of the best custom speakers builder here in Central Europe, having this rare combination of engineering rigor and ability to understand what is important to sound.

 

[Paul7777x]

Not the tweeter or 3D printed - but here are new 2way speakers based on Purifi woofers.On recent AV show in Prague it was considered one of the best sounds of the whole event. I like the nice idea for woodwork, details like terminals next to floor. Premium feel all over. I like tweeter sensitivity adjustment feature, smart solution and welcome one.

Sara - ideTone.cz

Dvoupásmová sloupová reprosoustava, která uchvátí čistotou, lehkostí, plností a transparentností zvukového projevu. Bylo tak dosaženo vhodným sladěním

idetone.cz

View attachment 522400

I know the guy behind the project - he is one of the best custom speakers builder here in Central Europe, having this rare combination of engineering rigor and ability to understand what is important to sound.

Unusual looking.

Not for me I think, but £8100 for anyone interested.

 

[kemmler3D]

One more (likely asinine) question gents; is it possible to remove the waveguide from the tweeter so that I can have it sprayed the same colour as the cabinet?

I’m not worried about any warranty loss, only how much of a difficult task it will be to perfectly realign the tweeter with the waveguide afterwards..,?

The tweeter has some screws on the back that look like they might (?) be holding the faceplate / WG to the rest of the assembly, but it's hard to say just by looking.

Why not just 3D print a little cap for the dome / coherer and glue it in place while painting? Oh, wait...

I also once saw a YT video of some guy spraying his Genelecs, basically he very carefully put tape / paper over the tweeter, using the edge of the tweeter surround to guide when he cut the tape ... but in this case it looks like the coherer would make that very tricky.

I’m still in the process of printing my first cabinet but the baffle and back have printed pretty clean. I’ve just set them next to each other to take a few quick pictures.

I have two pieces still to print before I start filling and gluing. Print orientation has a few trade offs but since I’m not in a hurry I just printed in .12 layer height and the layer lines on the front and back faces will be easy clean up when I get there. I’m not expecting the kits I ordered before June so I’ve had other things jump ahead in the print queue but it’s coming along.

Really cool, what print settings / material are you using?

 

[Kaladin]

Really cool, what print settings / material are you using?

Thanks! The front was Sunlu PETG-CF and the rear was Flashforge PETG-CF. I find it a lot easier to print with than standard petg. It almost never warps and is a lot stiffer too.

In Bambu slicer I used .12 fine layer height and modified these: 5 walls, detect thin wall, 13 top shell layers, 5% gyroid infill, 25% Infill/Wall overlap. I used tree supports with a pla interface on the tabs to mount the woofer. It didn’t sound like you’re going to fill the cabinet but to make it accessible I added a modifier to each part and set the bottom shell layers of the modifier to 0. For the two middle sections I’ll use a .20 layer height and default number of top shells since layer height won’t really effect appearance and amount of cleanup work.

I’ll see if I can edit this post and add the 3mf the next time I’m at my computer.

 

[kemmler3D]

Thanks! The front was Sunlu PETG-CF and the rear was Flashforge PETG-CF. I find it a lot easier to print with than standard petg. It almost never warps and is a lot stiffer too.

In Bambu slicer I used .12 fine layer height and modified these: 5 walls, detect thin wall, 13 top shell layers, 5% gyroid infill, 25% Infill/Wall overlap. I used tree supports with a pla interface on the tabs to mount the woofer. It didn’t sound like you’re going to fill the cabinet but to make it accessible I added a modifier to each part and set the bottom shell layers of the modifier to 0. For the two middle sections I’ll use a .20 layer height and default number of top shells since layer height won’t really effect appearance and amount of cleanup work.

I’ll see if I can edit this post and add the 3mf the next time I’m at my computer.

Good ol' Sunlu, somehow I thought CF filaments were more costly, but I'd mostly been looking at PA-CF stuff out of curiosity. I might consider using the same instead of plain PETG. I also have a thought toward separating the driver mounting areas into separate prints to avoid seams, in which case you could also use premium filaments just for those spots. Basically separate discs that would glue to the rest of the cabinet where the drivers would attach. I'm just not sure if it matters, and if it does matter, would it be better to use something very rigid like this, or just TPU...?

Related: Do you know much about the safety concerns on CF filaments? Some people on Reddit say that the fibers somehow work their way into your skin or lungs or whatever - I have no clue and it sounds a bit superstitious to me... but on the other hand, I only have 2 lungs so I'm quite conservative when it comes to microscopic non-biodegradable fibers.

 

[Paul7777x]

Good ol' Sunlu, somehow I thought CF filaments were more costly, but I'd mostly been looking at PA-CF stuff out of curiosity. I might consider using the same instead of plain PETG. I also have a thought toward separating the driver mounting areas into separate prints to avoid seams, in which case you could also use premium filaments just for those spots. Basically separate discs that would glue to the rest of the cabinet where the drivers would attach. I'm just not sure if it matters, and if it does matter, would it be better to use something very rigid like this, or just TPU...?

Related: Do you know much about the safety concerns on CF filaments? Some people on Reddit say that the fibers somehow work their way into your skin or lungs or whatever - I have no clue and it sounds a bit superstitious to me... but on the other hand, I only have 2 lungs so I'm quite conservative when it comes to microscopic non-biodegradable fibers.

Might I ask if you’re aware of any busines that might be interested in making these cabinets using printing?

Perhaps say a certain number of them if it were possible to interest a sufficient number in a group buy?

 

[kemmler3D]

Might I ask if you’re aware of any busines that might be interested in making these cabinets using printing?

Perhaps say a certain number of them if it were possible to interest a sufficient number in a group buy?

There are a few, Makexyz would probably be appropriate for this, but Shapeways is an option too, there are quite a few printing services out there I haven't used one in a while but they're fairly numerous out there.

A local shop might be a better bet, try googling around for a "makerspace" or similar, they almost always have a handful of 3D printers available for random print jobs.

Realistically buying your own 3D printer is not even wildly expensive compared to this build, you can get a Bambu P1S (what I'm using) for $400 new and less secondhand - 3D printing might seem magical but sometimes it's as easy as loading a file from the internet and putting the plastic into the tube on the back. These days just printing something on default settings can actually work, didn't used to be the case...

 

[Jonazkur]

It depends on a personal preference.
I have speakers with Bliesma t34a which have super wide dispersion and listening to it in an untreated room is quickly tiring.

Yes you excite your walls too much with wide dispersion.

 

[Kaladin]

Good ol' Sunlu, somehow I thought CF filaments were more costly, but I'd mostly been looking at PA-CF stuff out of curiosity. I might consider using the same instead of plain PETG. I also have a thought toward separating the driver mounting areas into separate prints to avoid seams, in which case you could also use premium filaments just for those spots. Basically separate discs that would glue to the rest of the cabinet where the drivers would attach. I'm just not sure if it matters, and if it does matter, would it be better to use something very rigid like this, or just TPU...?

Related: Do you know much about the safety concerns on CF filaments? Some people on Reddit say that the fibers somehow work their way into your skin or lungs or whatever - I have no clue and it sounds a bit superstitious to me... but on the other hand, I only have 2 lungs so I'm quite conservative when it comes to microscopic non-biodegradable fibers.

I’ve been considering doing that if the passive radiator cutouts give me any quality issues when I print that section. I forget the exact numbers but that part is like a 2 day, 1.5 kg print so I don’t want to run a bunch of test prints. I think petg-cf outerwalls with tpu infill might be interesting for multi-nozzle printers but I would keep the outer walls the same material to make sure I get a strong bond. Something like 3D gloop for petg dissolves a bit of the plastic to chemically weld the pieces together and would work great for that. It’s a solvent so I use it out in the garage or in my vented paint booth and wear a respirator to be safe. It’s easy to work with otherwise, sets up relatively quickly and fully cures in about an hour.

Nylons are interesting but for larger parts a heated chamber is really useful to avoid warping. I’ve printed quite a bit of PA6-CF/GF and it’s strong and heavy but it needs to be annealed to reduce creep when it’s exposed to water/humidity.

I’ve read the same thing on Reddit but I’ve never seen any evidence to back up the CF concerns. I wear a respirator and wet sand but I wear a respirator sanding anything. If I wasn’t planning to paint or otherwise cover the cabinet I would spray a matte clear coat to seal it.

 

[Paul7777x]

I’ve been considering doing that if the passive radiator cutouts give me any quality issues when I print that section. I forget the exact numbers but that part is like a 2 day, 1.5 kg print so I don’t want to run a bunch of test prints. I think petg-cf outerwalls with tpu infill might be interesting for multi-nozzle printers but I would keep the outer walls the same material to make sure I get a strong bond. Something like 3D gloop for petg dissolves a bit of the plastic to chemically weld the pieces together and would work great for that. It’s a solvent so I use it out in the garage or in my vented paint booth and wear a respirator to be safe. It’s easy to work with otherwise, sets up relatively quickly and fully cures in about an hour.

Nylons are interesting but for larger parts a heated chamber is really useful to avoid warping. I’ve printed quite a bit of PA6-CF/GF and it’s strong and heavy but it needs to be annealed to reduce creep when it’s exposed to water/humidity.

I’ve read the same thing on Reddit but I’ve never seen any evidence to back up the CF concerns. I wear a respirator and wet sand but I wear a respirator sanding anything. If I wasn’t planning to paint or otherwise cover the cabinet I would spray a matte clear coat to seal it.

Won’t not sanding and not painting leave a bit of a rough finish beneath the matte sealer?

Pardon if this is an ignorant question… it’s because I am entirely whenever 3D printing is mentioned.

 

[kemmler3D]

Won’t not sanding and not painting leave a bit of a rough finish beneath the matte sealer?

Pardon if this is an ignorant question… it’s because I am entirely whenever 3D printing is mentioned.

Generally yes, especially for a print like this that will tend to require gluing parts together.

If your printer is dialed in, your filament is cooperating, and you plan the print settings out well, you can get a decent finish on printed parts that may not demand painting. I have a few things in my office printed with matte PLA that look nice on their own. This tends to work best when it's all one piece.

The typical method for finishing 3D printed parts is not far off from painting an MDF cabinet, but you need to do some surface prep with filler to minimize layer lines and seams from the glue-up. A common approach is to do a few layers of automotive building primer with sanding in between to get a smooth substrate for paint. I've had decent results just from wood filler, careful sanding, and a few coats of rattle can paint.

 

[Kaladin]

Won’t not sanding and not painting leave a bit of a rough finish beneath the matte sealer?

Pardon if this is an ignorant question… it’s because I am entirely whenever 3D printing is mentioned.

Yeah, I wouldn't go that route with a speaker cabinet but aesthetics are subjective. I generally follow the process kemmler3D outlined with building primer and sanding. I use bondo spot putty for any bigger gaps or seams. Bondo spot potty can also be thinned out with acetone to fill layer lines or create textures.

 

[Paul7777x]

Generally yes, especially for a print like this that will tend to require gluing parts together.

If your printer is dialed in, your filament is cooperating, and you plan the print settings out well, you can get a decent finish on printed parts that may not demand painting. I have a few things in my office printed with matte PLA that look nice on their own. This tends to work best when it's all one piece.

The typical method for finishing 3D printed parts is not far off from painting an MDF cabinet, but you need to do some surface prep with filler to minimize layer lines and seams from the glue-up. A common approach is to do a few layers of automotive building primer with sanding in between to get a smooth substrate for paint. I've had decent results just from wood filler, careful sanding, and a few coats of rattle can paint.

Cheers sir.

Sounds, like you say, essentially the same procedure as a timber cabinet mostly.

 

[Paul7777x]

Anyone have any news on their cabinets progress, or built a x-over yet?

 

[Kaladin]

Anyone have any news on their cabinets progress, or built a x-over yet?

I was sidetracked for a bit but I just finished printing the first cabinet and started the second. I made some coupons with epoxy and gmb mixed at different ratios so when those finish curing in a few days I will double check the densities are what I’m expecting and I can start filling the first cabinet.

I noticed Solen has build kits now with everything you need except the cabinets.

Good ol' Sunlu, somehow I thought CF filaments were more costly, but I'd mostly been looking at PA-CF stuff out of curiosity. I might consider using the same instead of plain PETG. I also have a thought toward separating the driver mounting areas into separate prints to avoid seams, in which case you could also use premium filaments just for those spots. Basically separate discs that would glue to the rest of the cabinet where the drivers would attach. I'm just not sure if it matters, and if it does matter, would it be better to use something very rigid like this, or just TPU...?

Related: Do you know much about the safety concerns on CF filaments? Some people on Reddit say that the fibers somehow work their way into your skin or lungs or whatever - I have no clue and it sounds a bit superstitious to me... but on the other hand, I only have 2 lungs so I'm quite conservative when it comes to microscopic non-biodegradable fibers.

I had to buy more filament and I noticed it was actually Elegoo and not Sunlu. The Elegoo was actually pretty nice. The flashforge seemed pretty nice too but as I printed more of it I started running into issues with it clogging a .4mm nozzle. I was looking for a lower cost alternative after Tinmorry raised their prices but I ended up just going back to Tinmorry. Just don’t buy Tinmorry’s eco-rolls. The eco-rolls use a cardboard spool that comes warped and the spool binds in the AMS before you can use the full roll.

 

[Kravi4ka]

A picture, please?

 

[Paul7777x]

I was sidetracked for a bit but I just finished printing the first cabinet and started the second. I made some coupons with epoxy and gmb mixed at different ratios so when those finish curing in a few days I will double check the densities are what I’m expecting and I can start filling the first cabinet.

I noticed Solen has build kits now with everything you need except the cabinets.



I had to buy more filament and I noticed it was actually Elegoo and not Sunlu. The Elegoo was actually pretty nice. The flashforge seemed pretty nice too but as I printed more of it I started running into issues with it clogging a .4mm nozzle. I was looking for a lower cost alternative after Tinmorry raised their prices but I ended up just going back to Tinmorry. Just don’t buy Tinmorry’s eco-rolls. The eco-rolls use a cardboard spool that comes warped and the spool binds in the AMS before you can use the full roll.

Very interesting to see how it all turns out. I hope you’re happy with your efforts.

As to this; I’ve not heard of Solen before today.

SPK16 PARTS

Solen SPK16 PARTS, Crossover and Other Parts needed for the Purifi Audio SPK16 kit.

solen.ca

It seems like a very good idea to me, being the untutored amateur I am. But are Solen good stuff?

 

[DatSpeakerTho]

Solen is good but that kits markup is wild. You should at least get a PCB for that money.

They're really trying to maximize profits on this one. They're asking $27 for a 2uf cap in the kit... Why?! 54$ usd for two 2uf caps oh man that would make Danny Richie jealous.

Not really sure the 2.0mh needs to be wound down to 1.88mh. Seems like a pretty negligible difference just using a 2mh. But I guess the plan calls for a 1.88mh.

And here is a 2mh, with 1.1 DCR (Jantzen 20awg). I don't think anyone could pick out this difference.

Solen is Mr. Crabs "I like money" meme here.

 

[Paul7777x]

Solen is good but that kits markup is wild. You should at least get a PCB for that money.

A good point. Cheers.

I didn’t think about checking that.

 

[Roland68]

I was sidetracked for a bit but I just finished printing the first cabinet and started the second. I made some coupons with epoxy and gmb mixed at different ratios so when those finish curing in a few days I will double check the densities are what I’m expecting and I can start filling the first cabinet.

I noticed Solen has build kits now with everything you need except the cabinets.



I had to buy more filament and I noticed it was actually Elegoo and not Sunlu. The Elegoo was actually pretty nice. The flashforge seemed pretty nice too but as I printed more of it I started running into issues with it clogging a .4mm nozzle. I was looking for a lower cost alternative after Tinmorry raised their prices but I ended up just going back to Tinmorry. Just don’t buy Tinmorry’s eco-rolls. The eco-rolls use a cardboard spool that comes warped and the spool binds in the AMS before you can use the full roll.

For the cardboard spools, you can print simple additional rings (which are reusable)—that way, this won't happen anymore. There are plenty of templates available on Makerworld.

For larger print projects, I often buy TINMORRY 2 kg CF PETG Rapid Filament on a large spool (black) when it's on sale for around €32. Of course, that doesn't fit in the AMS.