• WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Product idea: a "FAFO box" for dealing with noisy unbalanced-to-balanced setups.

richardm

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2023
Messages
22
Likes
6
I'm using KRK Rokits as computer speakers. There's a plethora of social media posts stretching back 12+ years where people are struggling with CPU/GPU-induced electrical noise and have tried everything including DACs with balanced outputs with no satisfactory result.

I myself have had CPU noise for years, across two houses, two different computers (one with two different power supplies), and even with different powered monitors (JBL LSRs in addition to these Rokits). Last night I finally decided to deep dive and make a plan to fix this damned problem. Some findings and observations:

1. https://www.ranecommercial.com/legacy/note110.html : "Here is where special test cable assemblies, shown in Figure 3, really come in handy. These assemblies allow you to connect the shield to chassis ground at the point of entry, or to pin 1, or to lift one end of the shield. The task becomes more difficult when the unit you've isolated has multiple inputs and outputs. On a suspect unit with multiple cables, try various configurations on each connection to find out if special cable assemblies are needed at more than one point."

2. https://www.prosoundweb.com/balanced-and-unbalanced-connections/5/ : "One method of creating a balanced output is so simple it seems almost like cheating, and indeed, some condemn it as such. (It’s a popular comment in online forum “reviews.”) But it’s not cheating at all, and it works quite well. The output signal is connected only between pins 1 (ground) and 2. A resistor equal to the output impedance of the op-amp driving pin 2 is connected between pins 1 and 3. This satisfies the balanced output requirement of equal source impedance for pins 2 and 3. How well it works is a function of how accurately the “dummy” impedance on pin 3 matches the active source impedance, but that’s easy to do with inexpensive 1% tolerance resistors, and most manufacturers who use this output configuration do it right."

3. https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/great-balance-unbalanced-line/ : "At the end where it plugs into the keyboard connect a precision potentiometer pin 3 (cold, or “-“) of your XLR and ground/shield (pin 1). On a TRS this would be between Ring and Sleeve. Connect pin 2 (or Hot) as normal. On a TRS this would be the tip. Often it is easiest to just make up a special cable you can connect in line with the pot on it. Turn the equipment on and turn up the gain on your mixer until you hear a good amount of hum and line noise coming in from the keyboard line. Turn the potentiometer (which will change the resistance between pin 3 (“-“) and ground) and you will hear the hum and noise level change. With some careful work you should be able to find a “sweet spot” where the hum is minimized."

4. https://www.soundonsound.com/sound-advice/q-there-better-balanced-unbalanced-cabling-solution : "The practical problem with this approach lies in trying to squeeze a resistor and capacitor into the very limited amount of space inside a standard TS plug without everything shorting out. It's not impossible if you have decent soldering skills, small components and some patience, but for those who don't, help is at hand in the form of our very own custom-made SOS pseudo-balanced cables. These are available from the SOS shop to UK customers at £19.99 (or £16.99 to SOS subscribers)."

That was 10 years ago and there's no longer any sign of these special diagnostic cables.
-----

Given that this topic keeps resurfacing over and over again; the actual solution varies depending on the architecture at either end; isolation transformers suck unless you spend an arm and a leg; and balanced DACs can be hit-or-miss in these setups... why doesn't someone design and sell a "FAFO box" that can be inserted in-line to test these strategies without messy breadboarding and/or a rat's nest of alligator jumpers?

I can't even find a TRS to 2x TS insert that deviates from the usual practice of dumping each unbalanced channel into TS -- the 4th URL above has some verbiage to suggest that opening ground at one end plus driving TR instead of TS might be enough to fix the problem. But I can't buy a cable or adapter that does this.

Am I barking at the moon here?
 

Newman

Major Contributor
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Messages
3,505
Likes
4,340
Disconnect absolutely everything from the PC except the speakers. Monitor, keyboard, everything. If the noise is gone, add back one item at a time and notice when the noise returns. Take the item that caused the noise to return and try connecting it via different ports, or if it is mains powered, move the mains plug to a different socket in the house.

Second idea, try a USB to Toslink audio adapter, then via optical cable to the DAC.
 

thecheapseats

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Joined
Feb 22, 2023
Messages
727
Likes
776
Location
Los Angeles refugee
Am I barking at the moon here?
no... not in your resolve to fix your issue... as far as a test 'box' or fixture or off-the-shelf product to help you do so?... maybe...

previous message phrase above mine is where I would start... "Disconnect absolutely everything from the PC except the speakers, etc. etc"...

computers are just another audio device with ground and sheild requirements - and evil noise propeties - which needs to be disciplined... just my opinion - going optical may be a solution, but it doesn't fix the issue - just kills the symptom and stops it from bothering you - which may be 'good enough'...

there is one constant when dealing with audio interconnects/adapters in a mixed connector/device environment (beyond vanilla rca conns) - and it is, "whatever connector, adapter, wire-combo, test-cable you might need to attach or troubleshoot some-thing or some device at the moment - you probably don't have it - need to buy it - or you need to make it... but buying a 'ready-made box' to help ease your troubles hooting really isn't reality...

fixing your issue isn't difficult - aside from the basics, which you've likely done already - confirming no bad cables, no mis-wired connections, the device itself isn't defective/broken, as well as the device you're plugging into it isn't defective or has an issue - it does require a step by step methodology and logic when trouble shooting...

your #1 above has been around for years and is a great resource... are you going from unbalanced to balanced (if that's the issue) or a digital coax connect - is there a mixer involved - maybe a poorly wired ac strip?... you wern't specific about details...
 

sam_adams

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
997
Likes
2,416
Am I barking at the moon here?

Bill Whitlock to the rescue:

Chassis current tester (From Jensen AN004):

chassiscurrentjig.png


Unbalanced dummy tester (From Bill Whitlock - An Overview of Audio System Grounding and Interfacing - Indy-AES-2012 no longer available from Jensen):

ubaldummy.png


Balanced dummy tester from linked article above:

baldummy.png


The chassis current tester can be made with a Pomona MDP-0 or an MDP-ST to mount the resistor and capacitor to.

The balanced dummy can be made with a plastic or metal project box with the cables and connectors outside the box and the switch inside. The resistors can be inside of the XLR connector.

Test procedures for both dummy testers are in the second linked article.
 

thecheapseats

Addicted to Fun and Learning
Joined
Feb 22, 2023
Messages
727
Likes
776
Location
Los Angeles refugee
Bill Whitlock to the rescue:

Chassis current tester (From Jensen AN004):
yep Bill's notes are great... and Dean before him... Dean helped me a lot when I was starting out - giving me scraps of mu-metal, selling me transformers I needed direct form his shop at wholesale becuase i was a broke musician... bless them both...
 
OP
R

richardm

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2023
Messages
22
Likes
6
Disconnect absolutely everything from the PC except the speakers. Monitor, keyboard, everything. If the noise is gone, add back one item at a time and notice when the noise returns. Take the item that caused the noise to return and try connecting it via different ports, or if it is mains powered, move the mains plug to a different socket in the house.

Second idea, try a USB to Toslink audio adapter, then via optical cable to the DAC.
I'll try it this weekend.

I've had three signal sources through all of this: on-board audio from two different motherboards and also that Behringer UCA202 doodad that nwavguy was banging the drum about years ago. No other external DAC at this time. My hearing is kinda shot due to an accident 5ish years ago so I can't hear "bad" audio unless it's blatantly bad -- hence no awesomesauce DACs around here.

USB to Toslink into a DAC that isn't USB-powered would probably work just great. I'll add it to my list after the cheap/free stuff has been tried.
 

AnalogSteph

Major Contributor
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
3,377
Likes
3,325
Location
.de
There are at least two layers to this particular onion:
1. You will always have problems when connecting a regular PC to typical studio monitors that are IEC Class I devices via an unbalanced connection. This can be mitigated by using a DAC that is IEC Class I by itself (as typically evidenced by a 3-pin IEC power connector), which diverts most of the PC's problematic ground currents, but I wouldn't call it a proper solution either as the ground loop in itself still persists and may attract hum from nearby power transformers and whatnot when given the opportunity.

2. Evil lurks even when using balanced connections, however. KRK Rokits, at least the smaller ones, seem to be afflicted by the classic "Pin 1 Problem", a construction deficiency that results in shield currents being made audible, much reducing effective input CMRR. (It is not entirely trivial to follow AES48-2005 guidelines while making production as cheap and slimlined as possible, though I do believe that it can be done.) Did I mention that this can happen in audio interfaces, too? Some models that are bus-powered with an auxiliary power input will quieten down once the latter is being put to use via an external USB charger, as then there are no more substantial return currents traveling to the PC via the main USB cable.

BTW, isolation transformers do not all "suck". I conducted some measurements of a Behringer HD400 years ago and concluded that given low driving impedance on part of the output and levels around 1 Vrms (much like you'd be using when driving speakers), there was nothing particularly concerning about its performance. Consequently, it remains between my computer and my O110s to this day. Now a 600 ohm line transformer typically won't have the same amount of CMRR that a 10-20 kOhm one would, but in return you can still afford a few feet of cable while the latter pretty much has to be integrated into an equipment input in order for capacitive loading to remain in spec.

Incidentally, even a number of off-the-shelf 3.5 mm or RCA to XLR cables are one step towards "pseudo-balanced" in construction, using shielded twisted-pair cable stock and splitting the output ground into separate cold and shield conductors right there. It's not a perfect solution as there is a certain impedance mismatch (depending on output impedance) and a small portion of shared ground path remains, but it's a major step in the right direction.
 

OldenEars

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Messages
90
Likes
64
I'm using KRK Rokits as computer speakers. There's a plethora of social media posts stretching back 12+ years where people are struggling with CPU/GPU-induced electrical noise and have tried everything including DACs with balanced outputs with no satisfactory result.

I myself have had CPU noise for years, across two houses, two different computers (one with two different power supplies), and even with different powered monitors (JBL LSRs in addition to these Rokits). Last night I finally decided to deep dive and make a plan to fix this damned problem. Some findings and observations:

1. https://www.ranecommercial.com/legacy/note110.html : "Here is where special test cable assemblies, shown in Figure 3, really come in handy. These assemblies allow you to connect the shield to chassis ground at the point of entry, or to pin 1, or to lift one end of the shield. The task becomes more difficult when the unit you've isolated has multiple inputs and outputs. On a suspect unit with multiple cables, try various configurations on each connection to find out if special cable assemblies are needed at more than one point."

2. https://www.prosoundweb.com/balanced-and-unbalanced-connections/5/ : "One method of creating a balanced output is so simple it seems almost like cheating, and indeed, some condemn it as such. (It’s a popular comment in online forum “reviews.”) But it’s not cheating at all, and it works quite well. The output signal is connected only between pins 1 (ground) and 2. A resistor equal to the output impedance of the op-amp driving pin 2 is connected between pins 1 and 3. This satisfies the balanced output requirement of equal source impedance for pins 2 and 3. How well it works is a function of how accurately the “dummy” impedance on pin 3 matches the active source impedance, but that’s easy to do with inexpensive 1% tolerance resistors, and most manufacturers who use this output configuration do it right."

3. https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/great-balance-unbalanced-line/ : "At the end where it plugs into the keyboard connect a precision potentiometer pin 3 (cold, or “-“) of your XLR and ground/shield (pin 1). On a TRS this would be between Ring and Sleeve. Connect pin 2 (or Hot) as normal. On a TRS this would be the tip. Often it is easiest to just make up a special cable you can connect in line with the pot on it. Turn the equipment on and turn up the gain on your mixer until you hear a good amount of hum and line noise coming in from the keyboard line. Turn the potentiometer (which will change the resistance between pin 3 (“-“) and ground) and you will hear the hum and noise level change. With some careful work you should be able to find a “sweet spot” where the hum is minimized."

4. https://www.soundonsound.com/sound-advice/q-there-better-balanced-unbalanced-cabling-solution : "The practical problem with this approach lies in trying to squeeze a resistor and capacitor into the very limited amount of space inside a standard TS plug without everything shorting out. It's not impossible if you have decent soldering skills, small components and some patience, but for those who don't, help is at hand in the form of our very own custom-made SOS pseudo-balanced cables. These are available from the SOS shop to UK customers at £19.99 (or £16.99 to SOS subscribers)."

That was 10 years ago and there's no longer any sign of these special diagnostic cables.
-----

Given that this topic keeps resurfacing over and over again; the actual solution varies depending on the architecture at either end; isolation transformers suck unless you spend an arm and a leg; and balanced DACs can be hit-or-miss in these setups... why doesn't someone design and sell a "FAFO box" that can be inserted in-line to test these strategies without messy breadboarding and/or a rat's nest of alligator jumpers?

I can't even find a TRS to 2x TS insert that deviates from the usual practice of dumping each unbalanced channel into TS -- the 4th URL above has some verbiage to suggest that opening ground at one end plus driving TR instead of TS might be enough to fix the problem. But I can't buy a cable or adapter that does this.

Am I barking at the moon here?
have you tried some tin foil? if you're lucky, it can be surprisingly effective shielding cpu noise. If you're certain its cpu noise?
 

OldenEars

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Messages
90
Likes
64
Disconnect absolutely everything from the PC except the speakers. Monitor, keyboard, everything. If the noise is gone, add back one item at a time and notice when the noise returns. Take the item that caused the noise to return and try connecting it via different ports, or if it is mains powered, move the mains plug to a different socket in the house.

Second idea, try a USB to Toslink audio adapter, then via optical cable to the DAC.
this is a better suggestion than my tin foil suggestion.

ill get my (tin foil) hat :(

also, i remember many years ago (20 ish?) , there were specific audio pc cases that had some more shielding or some partial Faraday cage built in? might not be a thing nowadays
 
OP
R

richardm

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2023
Messages
22
Likes
6
It's taken me until now to start working on this.

The old cable was a 3.5mm TRS (computer-end) that split into 1/4" TS-left and TS-right (KRK-ends).

I've replaced it with a 3.5mm TRS to 2x 1/4" TRS splitter (no left/right channel tomfoolery) and a pair of straight-through TRS patch cables. No mods yet as I wanted to see what happens if I maintain T and R and S all the way to the KRK inputs.

Well, it's obviously both channels summed into mono but there is NO HUM WHATSOEVER. I've run the nastiest CPU/GPU benchmarks I know of -- ones that used to create a fat bag of "computing" noise that could be heard around the block. Total silence.

Now I shall cut into the splitter, strip back all of the wires a bit, and commence FAFO. Feeling very hopeful now.
 
OP
R

richardm

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2023
Messages
22
Likes
6
We have a winner:

1689006801441.png


The above plus disabling the sound chip's power save mode:

Code:
echo 0 > /sys/module/snd_hda_intel/parameters/power_save

The original configuration became quieter in power-save mode; with the above it's the opposite.

These KRK's are virtually silent now.
 
Top Bottom