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Please recommend me proven compact subwoofer design

I'm no expert but it looks to be hard to beat by home brew design. OP was asking for a turnkey design for $500.

I do not have strict budget, just try to stay within reasonable limits. Yet keep in mind that 500EU just for the driver and the amp, not including the box and DSP cost.

Honestly, I also agree that wont be able to easily beat SVS performance, but for sure will beat its looks ( i prefer something more subtle than glossy black). And I will enjoy the wood part.
 
So the dual voice coil drivers are more efficient and require less powerfull amps?
No. That amps just happens to be dual channel, and it doesn’t seem to be bridgeable. So tongues both channels you need two voice coils (or woofers). And 4R because that’s where you get more power from the amps.
 
I do not have strict budget, just try to stay within reasonable limits. Yet keep in mind that 500EU just for the driver and the amp, not including the box and DSP cost.

Honestly, I also agree that wont be able to easily beat SVS performance, but for sure will beat its looks ( i prefer something more subtle than glossy black). And I will enjoy the wood part.
They offer that as well as white but you want to explore DYI. You did mention
I am looking for a proven design to follow exactly
Good luck, I will watch to see what and how you do. :)
 
I'm no expert but it looks to be hard to beat by home brew design. OP was asking for a turnkey design for $500.

Did you spin the 360 degree view? The sub appears to have a grill on the front (presumably with a woofer behind it) and a woofer on the back, no inputs for power, signal, etc.
 
Did you spin the 360 degree view? The sub appears to have a grill on the front (presumably with a woofer behind it) and a woofer on the back, no inputs for power, signal, etc.
That is misleading or in error the grill is on the front and back has inputs, according to the manual
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Have you checked out other internet direct sub companies, like Rythmik or PSA, to see what they offer? AFAIK, Rythmik also offers plans/drivers/amps - as well as completed subs.
 
Have you checked out other internet direct sub companies, like Rythmik or PSA, to see what they offer? AFAIK, Rythmik also offers plans/drivers/amps - as well as completed subs.
Do they have a european presence now?
 
I don't know if they have a physical (eg dealer) in Europe. I am assuming they'd ship there.
 
Selected ScanSpeak because I know the brand and found all T/S parameters easily. For sure will do more reasearch before I select the drivers.
Scan-Speak makes some great subs too, many of them being very suitable for a sealed enclosures, but they tend to prefer more volume than the HO series Daytons. I think the 10" is fine in your enclosure, if you're fine with less output than the 12" Dayton. The 26W/4558T00 also has Klippel tests which are not bad, but I'd expect a bit better for the price.

For a single voice coil sub I think this board is quite praised and good value, once again with an integrated SMPS. If you don't mind using a separate power supply, Audiophonics also has a lot of IRS2092S boards and SMPS with "differential" voltage that can be combined for less than 100€. I think some of those 2092S boards can be a bit poorly implemented though
 
Rythmik does not have an EU dealer. Which means that we have to deal with customs and pay important taxes. Probably not worth it.
 
If you want to go DIY then I'd recommend against plate amps: a compact enclosure is the worst place to put an amp, plus they need two cables and more spacing from the wall for both connector housings and power dissipation...
 
Maybe something from BK Elec? I understand they used to manufacture the original REL subwoofers… No measurements available, but they seem well received and were very popular for a period (before the pursuit of subs that will cause structural damage).
 
If you want the best performance from your sub, stay away from all these DIYS- plate and sub amps. Get a decend PA amp, and a matching DSP.
If someone tells you about the "loud fan", ignore him. You can throttle the fan or fit a silent unit for less than 20 Euro. These amps need the fan only for constant load near the clipping line.
Do not put the electronics inside the sub cabinet. You get all kinds of complications with power and signal line, noise and hum.
Build one or better two sub cabinets and make the driver choice a matter of your application. For music you do not need to go that low than for home cinema. Stay realistic, if you share your house with others, you will not use a 17 Hz 115dB subwoofer.
 
To make an actual suggestion:
t.amp E-800 195€
t.racks DSP 4x4 mini pro 159€
Eminence Lab 12 319€

This is a little over your single sub budget, but includes amplification and DSP for two woofer. So if you trow in a second Lab 12, you hit exactly the 500€ each point. The amp will have no problem to drive each Lab 12 with 400 Watt.
In your room, each driver in a closed 40cm cube, you can equalize it for 20dB at earth quake level.
 
not sure if the woofers are readily available any more admittedly.
It’s a bit tricky. The XLS series is replaced by the XXLS. You can still buy those. The PRs are harder to find. It seems they should be paired the a Scanspeak PR of the Discovery line. The seem to look virtually identical. But also note that with a PR it’s recommended to use either 2 of the same size as the woofer, or one size larger if you can only accommodate one. These older designs did not do that yet.
 
It’s a bit tricky. The XLS series is replaced by the XXLS. You can still buy those. The PRs are harder to find. It seems they should be paired the a Scanspeak PR of the Discovery line. The seem to look virtually identical. But also note that with a PR it’s recommended to use either 2 of the same size as the woofer, or one size larger if you can only accommodate one. These older designs did not do that yet.

Yes, there is more margin of safety if you run two. But it’s not necessary by any means. FWIW I’ve had an “application note” XLS12+PR sub since forever - well, maybe 2003 or 2004. While that sub doesn’t have modern power (used the “240 watt” or whatever plate amp from PE) the only time it sounded mad at me was when I ran pure tones below its tuning frequency. It kept up just fine with 12” Tannoy dual concentrics.

FWIW I’m personally seriously thinking of going “back to the future” and commissioning 2 for our living room - the efficiency advantage is super compelling when you’re willing to give up infrasonics. I have 4 OG Danish-made 830500 XLS12s and an equal number of PRs so parts availability is not an issue.)
 
All plans on Peerless, Vifa and Tymphany associated chassis are depending on some remaining stocks at some dealers. Please mind this.
Tymphany Corporation has a very restrictive sales policy, not delivering dealers with acceptable numbers of chassis any more. They want big OEM and not small retailer orders. DIYS is something they concider not wanted any more. If you demand a dealer to take a minimum of 100 pieces "XLS12" woofer, this is the end of DIYS with Peerless. These old, once famous brand names like VIFA are all that is left and soon will be forgotten.

Even if you get some chassis from remaining stocks now, you will not get any for replacement or a second sub in the future.
A problem we will face in the future with more chassis brands, as there is hardly any european owned speaker producer left. The positive influence of DIYS on the brand immage is nothing of importance for the new emperors of the industry.
 
One of these:

One of these or similar, 0.75ft^3 sealed and lightly stuffed:

Use an Amp with 300W and boost in the right place, such as this:

If you get this particular box, you'll have to enlarge the driver hole. Having built this subwoofer, I feel it is a very cost effective design. I built a separate box for the plate Amp, and mounted it to the rear of the box. The signal sensing circuits like having +3dB out front on the sub LFE connection to aid in turn on, but don't go above +4dB or you could clip the input stage of the amp. The person who received this is VERY happy. I never named it, so it does not have a project name, but it does the job well.
 
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