Please buy safe audio gear

[Count Arthur]

This folding plug is pretty neat:

https://www.dezeen.com/2009/06/29/folding-plug-by-min-kyu-choi/

 

[blackmetalboon]

This folding plug is pretty neat:

https://www.dezeen.com/2009/06/29/folding-plug-by-min-kyu-choi/

This was one of the designs that didn’t meet regulations. One of the major problems was that the fuse was accessible while the plug was in use.

 

[gattaca]

+1 for locking IEC 19/20 cables or better still using the Neutrik power connectors which lock by default.

Wanna retrofit some of your cables? (Not used these but have considered) -> Locking IEC

FWIW, one of the first things I do with anything incoming is examine the IEC plug and cable supplied. I check for UL ratings and the specific gauge printed on the cable. Amir probably did not notice that the power cable shipped with that Crown XLS2502 was pathetically underrated vs the projected loads. If I recall it was an 18 gauge power cable b/c when I opened the box it was thinking WTH? That cable should have easily been 12 gauge and no smaller than 14 for the AMP's upper rating.

It's funny, there's no telling how many "server outages" have been caused by IT staff not using the tie-downs for computer cables. Most Tier1 manufacturers (Server class) today still use the standard IEC cables, usually 12-14 gauge for C13/C14 cables. The best solution I've seen to still use standard cables is building what I call a "friction" clamp onto the PSU's socket which has to be pivoted to release the cable. They also include a velcro cable tie integrated into the unit to secure the cable to the PSU too. This approach avoids the whole "special cable/socket" issues but the IT staffers are too "busy" to take note.



I see a lot of IEC C13/C14 cables today rated for 7-10A - some even have more "human readable" tags affixed to them. I put that crap in it's own special box. I generally replace the power cables on my amps with 10-12-14 gauge C14 cabling. I figure it only costs only few dollars to "do it right". One of the last things I do when sliding the items into cabinets is firmly seat the power cables and if they are loose, I will replace them b/c of condition like Amir just illustrated. Be safe - sparking/loose cables is a great way to burn down your home - arc-faults or not.

 

[Count Arthur]

This was one of the designs that didn’t meet regulations.

Well, now we've "taken back control" and "got Brexit done" we won't have to put up with those pesky EU bureaucrats, oh, wait a minute...

I see a lot of IEC19/20 cables today rated for 10A

Are the IEC19 plugs/sockets any less wobbly/fally-outy than the IEC16 type?

 

[gattaca]

Are the IEC19 plugs/sockets any less wobbly/fally-outy than the IEC16 type?

Sorry, I meant to say (corrected above) IEC C13/C14 rated for 7-10A. Most of the IEC C19/20 I handle are 12 gauge so it's not as much of an issue. WRT the wobble... the C19/C20 is a larger connector that seems to grab more so just my estimation it may be a bit more secure. But the server makers often use that same "pivoting lever" on these too. It's the PDU that generally have nothing holding them in place but friction.

 

[Wombat]

My Behringer DEQ2496 went crazy some time back. Pop, pop, bang, bang thru the speakers and the display flashing on and off. I took it out of the system and set it aside. I got as far as lifting the lid, expecting to find bloated PS capacitors but all looked fine. It sat on my bench awaiting further attention - procrastination happening because I don't like working on modern printed circuit gear.

An old friend, who was downsizing to a retirement village, dropped by with some more CDs and DVDs, an iPad 2, and a Win7 laptop for gratis. He then said "I have a sub-woofer here that doesn't work. You can fix it for me, can't you"? Mmmm.

Later, I plugged in the sub, connected an input lead to it and touched the 'hot' terminal and got hum. Promising. I then hooked up a Discman to it and it worked just fine. Easiest fix I've done.

Then I remembered this thread mentioning that IEC plugs need to be firmly pushed home. Did this with the DEQ2496 - no dramas and the display was back to normal. It is not back in the system yet but I feel it will work just fine.

Check that those IEC leads are pushed right in.

 

[bluefuzz]

There was a time in the UK when one of the small denomination coins – I think it was the 2p – fit precisely between the prongs of the UK plug shorting all three together. I remember it was a popular prank at school to fit such a coin on the plug of the overhead projector. Teacher comes into class, plugs in overhead projector ... huge bang, sparks and lights go out on that floor of school. Sometimes whole school. Instant free period! Those were the days ...

 

[mansr]

There was a time in the UK when one of the small denomination coins – I think it was the 2p – fit precisely between the prongs of the UK plug shorting all three together. I remember it was a popular prank at school to fit such a coin on the plug of the overhead projector. Teacher comes into class, plugs in overhead projector ... huge bang, sparks and lights go out on that floor of school. Sometimes whole school. Instant free period! Those were the days ...

The current (since 1971) 1p coin fits snugly between the prongs of a power plug. Of course, on modern plugs the prongs have a plastic surround that prevents such mischief.

 

[bluefuzz]

The current (since 1971) 1p coin fits snugly between the prongs of a power plug.

Ah it was the 1p. I haven't been in Britain for 35 years so memory is getting hazy. I'm surprised they're still in circulation. The smallest coin around here is about 7p.

Of course, on modern plugs the prongs have a plastic surround that prevents such mischief.

Spoilsports!

 

[mansr]

Ah it was the 1p. I haven't been in Britain for 35 years so memory is getting hazy. I'm surprised they're still in circulation. The smallest coin around here is about 7p.

Even more surprisingly, you can still find 1971 coins marked "1 NEW PENNY" in circulation.

 

[sergeauckland]

There was a time in the UK when one of the small denomination coins – I think it was the 2p – fit precisely between the prongs of the UK plug shorting all three together. I remember it was a popular prank at school to fit such a coin on the plug of the overhead projector. Teacher comes into class, plugs in overhead projector ... huge bang, sparks and lights go out on that floor of school. Sometimes whole school. Instant free period! Those were the days ...

Don't want to derail this thread, but will anyway!
At school metal combs between the 12v outlets on our lab benches were fun, but the best was to connect the water taps on each bench to the gas spigot for the bunsen burners using rubber tubing. As the water pressure was so much more than the gas, the gas pipes would fill with water and you'd see progressively all the bunsen burners go out as the water replaced the gas and then each bunsen burner would sprout a small fountain.

The worse part was that the gas pipes then would be full of water, so had to be drained which put the lab out of use for days.

Oh, how we laughed.......

S.

 

[foodchain]

In my tear down articles, I routinely emphasize safety factors which are often missed. In reviews I also note at times when equipment has regulatory certification or not.

Often the retort is when was the last time something had gone wrong with electronics this way. So I thought I share a recent experience on this front.

I went to hook up a passive speaker to my Purifi amplifier on my desk. As I hooked up the wire, I am hearing sparking sound. I immediately think the speaker terminals are shorted but quick glance indicates they are fine. No spark is visible and at any rate, the amplifier is still off. Yet the "buzzing" and clear and loud sparking sound continues. I immediately reach for the power strip and hit off and the noise goes away.

Guessing that it may be the IEC cable, I touch that and realize that it was not inserted all the way. I pulled it out and smelled it and indeed it smelled like burnt rubber. Pushed it all in and it was fine. The amp is in standby mode and with its switching supply being on all the time, it was causing that sparking.

The reason to tell this story is that it is not the scenarios we can think of that are unsafe, but the ones we can't! I would have never thought of such a fire risk before it happened this way. Imagine if I were not home and this thing was sparking this way for hours on end. And the cord was a non-name one with no fire or safety rating (UL, CE, CSA, etc.).

So please, unless you really have to, buy audio electronics with proper safety regulations. I can't tell you the exact scenario they may be unsafe. What I can tell you is that it can manifest itself per above when you least expect it.

Now I have to go and check to see if that outlet was on Arc Fault breaker and still did that.

Important advice. You guys are way over my head as far as audio stuff (although some of the advice given to me on this forum has been pure gold), but as a civil engineer I want to reiterate how critical this is. My advice would be, no matter how good it sounds, do not use equipment that is not UL listed, and do not do anything non-code compliant (like, for example, running extension cords through walls, etc.). AFCI breakers are a huge pain in the rear, but where code requires them just suck it up and leave them in. In the event of a fire loss, your insurer will conduct a forensic investigation and if it appears that the fire stemmed from/involved the non-listed components or code violations, they are likely to deny the claim. Most boutique audiophile gear is not UL listed and for this reason alone I would urge for your sake that you steer clear of it. Even swapping in an "audiophile" fuse can result in claims problems in the event of an accident. Also, no matter if you think they're ugly, leave the UL labels on there!!

 

[wwenze]

The same applies to imported stuff too.

And especially the case with those appliances with 100-240V internal power supply but the sticker only says one voltage. Sony players selling cheap on Amazon is one example.