• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Pair of diy subs for Core 59 mains vs 1 core sub.?

Jaxjax

Senior Member
Forum Donor
Joined
Mar 20, 2022
Messages
455
Likes
348
I have some time on my hands & wouldn't mind a pair of subs to build. I can get the matching core sub which is 3.5-4k for just the 1 but I would rather not if a pair is superior. Seems a pair of quality DIY or kit dsp subs should be able to do for less then the 1 core sub.? Any of the madisound or parts express kits worth pursuing for a pair.?
 
2 subs is usually better than one. Take a look through this, it's got some pretty good info on it.

Don't know a lot about the kits. Subwoofers are easy to build, basically a reinforced box. I know that parts express usually lists suggested box sizes on the spec page.
 

Attachments

For that budget, you can find easily build a dual subwoofer. But it should also easy to buy two ready built subs.

If you want to rival the Core on output, you’ll probably need 2x12” or so per sub, 1x 15” or 18” will probably do it as well. Add a pair of powerful DSP plate amp, and you’ll have a nice set.
 
If you go DIY, make sure to use some speaker design software to optimize your design. WinISD is FREE, although with your budget you might not mind paying for a different application. Even if you get kit, it's probably worth running the software before you buy it.

This post shows the general relationship between sealed and ported cabinets. And of course, the design software will give you more specific curves depending on your particular driver characteristics and box size.
 
I am almost finished building a CSS 10" sub with their dual passive radiators and it's definitely the best sub I've built for the money. It measures really well, sounds great and performs far beyond the cost. They don't have a kit for the 10" but they have one for the 12" and it's $850. This is a screaming deal.
 
DIY subs are far better value at the $1000+ price level, the bulk buying power of companies starts to level off and they increase their profit margins.

Always run 2 subs when possible, the benefit to room mode distribution is substantial. Meaning you get a smoother frequency response and decay rates. Even 4 subs is worth considering when you have a big budget.

I would get 4 of the UM15 sealed kits, they are great value if you don't own the tools to build your own cabinets.


Skip the plate amps, you will get better noise and distortion performance with a 4 channel Hypex NC502MP.


Get a miniDSP Flex to handle the DSP, $570 with the balanced IO.


In my experience this type of setup is worth the extra $400 vs the plate amp setup. Besides the raw performance, external amps + DSP tend to last longer because they are exposed to less vibration and heat buildup.
 
Skip the plate amps, you will get better noise and distortion performance with a 4 channel Hypex NC502MP.

A Hypex plate amp uses the same modules, so no issues with noise or distortion are expected. I would not expect any anyway for a sub plate amp. It has to be really bad to notice anything. Nevertheless, a separate DSP and amp can be an excellent alternative, and in some cases might be preferred depending on your needs.

Anyway, the 500 or so Watts of the MC502MP are not enough to fully utilize the UMII15. I would probably power it with about 1KW to get the most out of it.

As for the Dayton kit: It's probably fine, although I would probably choose a larger enclosure. It will give you a few dB more efficiency down low, easily making up for a smaller amp. A 5 ft^3 box would give about 3dB more output at 20 Hz at the same power.
 
I do have a pair of Yamaha P2500S that do 1300 bridged @4ohms I could use I suppose. Then I can install separate dsp. I have a full Dirac license but doubt that's doing to help me much here. I want full control over these subs. I will start with 2- for sure & go to 4 if needed. I do have tools & wood working skills enough for most any cab build, just no CNC on hand.
 
I have a full Dirac license but doubt that's doing to help me much here. I want full control over these subs.
With more than one sub, DLBC would probably be advisable. If you have multiple sub-outputs on your source, you can get away with not needing a DSP with such a setup. You won’t have full control though. If not a MiniDSP or similar should work well enough to get the subs in check.

As for the Yamaha: no need to bridge: you can also put one amp on each of the coils of the UMII-15. But either way works.
 
NAD C658 & think it does have dual sub out.., at least it physically has 2 sub out RCA's . Not sure how they are configured though.
 
It's mono. So external DSP is recommended for multiple subs.
So using my Pair of Yamaha P2500S, 2- UMII15 wth cabs @ $880. Minidsp flex/ TRS balanced @ $570. Dirac DLBC @ $299. puts me at $1750 which seems a good deal.
I am curious as how the Dirca full 3 live installed on the NAD works with the DLBC to be installed on the mini DSP. .? Would it be better to just ditch the live on the NAD & install both on my laptop & transfer the filter I use now.? The DLBC & Dirac live 3 are 2 completely different programs.? I am envisioning I keep my filter as is now & work a separate filter w/ DLBC from the xover down which I assume is around 80hz matching the core 59's. ? I also have an Elysia Xfilter I use to tilt shelve mid/top & it has L & R extra xlr outputs & is last in my chain before I go into core 59's. Could I utilize these L & R signals from Elysia xfilter to Mini dsp then off to the Yamaha amps .?
 
Elysia Xfilter I use to tilt shelve mid/top & it has L & R extra xlr outputs & is last in my chain before I go into core 59's. Could I utilize these L & R signals from Elysia xfilter to Mini dsp then off to the Yamaha amps .?

Generally gonna be better and more accurately accomplished via DSP, the xfilter sounds like a really, really expensive shelving filter here and those are basically free these days.
 
Generally gonna be better and more accurately accomplished via DSP, the xfilter sounds like a really, really expensive shelving filter here and those are basically free these days.
Sure, totally get it. But it is sitting here 2 feet from me doing it's job for free . Why not use it. Shelving in Dirac is not something I have not figured out how to do. If you know how to apply in live 3 please do tell. I apply Dirac correction 400 down.
 
With more than one sub, DLBC would probably be advisable. If you have multiple sub-outputs on your source, you can get away with not needing a DSP with such a setup. You won’t have full control though. If not a MiniDSP or similar should work well enough to get the subs in check.

As for the Yamaha: no need to bridge: you can also put one amp on each of the coils of the UMII-15. But either way works.
I have pulled the NAD from system, Just using AES3 input on the Core 59's via Wiim Pro plus. I am to get either Mini dsp flex or 2x4. Can I get away with just the 2x4 .? There pretty cheap. I can build both subs using the newer UMKII in 15" with their cab kit for under 1k. I'll just use my amps. I guess all it's up to the flex or 2x4 now for cheapest easiest dsp solution.? I have REW & UMIK-1 mic for any measurement duty.
 
Can I get away with just the 2x4 .?
To correct two subwoofers? Sure, that will work. The normal (non-HD) 2x4 has a bit lower performance, but for sub-duty, there aren't really any objections, I think.
 
Back
Top Bottom