optimal connection with banana plugs?

[olds1959special]

They are tightened on with the screws, and seem fairly secure, but is using bare wire a better idea for more contact? Putting them in the normal way did not seem secure!

 

[BJL]

These look like pins, not banana plugs, but they do look secure. Are they loose if you try to move them?

 

[olds1959special]

These look like pins, not banana plugs, but they do look secure. Are they loose if you try to move them?

I think they are banana plugs? No, they aren't loose.

It's this:

https://www.amazon.com/CESS-037-Banana-Speaker-Strand-Silicone/dp/B08ZMNBL8W?th=1

I feel silly explaining this, but if I strip off the banana plugs the wires might not be long enough to work! I really need to get some more speaker wire...

 

[dualazmak]

Just for your possible reference and interest....

- I have been using 4-core AWG10 (max. 3.37 Ohm/km) and 8-core AWG12 (max. 5.24 Ohm/km) copper color-coded Vinyl Cabtyre (VCT) Cables and really affordable industry-use tin-electro-plated pure copper crimp R-lugs/Y-lugs (spade terminals) with heat-shrink insulator covers (ref. #150[remote thread], #28, #895, #906).

- You should never solder the crimped spade terminals: #904
(I prefer crimping rather than soldering: ref. #895, #905, #904)

- Elimination of magnetic susceptible metals in SP signal handling: #250, #013[remote thread]

- Semi-annual intensive cleaning of all the metal-to-metal connectors/contacts, and complete renewal of all the tin-electroplated copper terminals with heat-shrink insulators: #895

- Renewal of SP cabling boards beside SP systems: #906

- Safe accurate robust 22 Ohm(Ω) 30 W non-inductive non-polar wirewound power-type metal-clad resistor (FHN50-22OHMF, PCN Corporation, made in Japan) for renewal/replacement of so-far-used rather fragile(?) ones: #976

I wrote in #25 on remote thread;
At least based on my own long-year experiences, I now believe that it would be better avoiding Caig DeoxIT DN5 and/or similar protective(?) materials;

Spoiler: Better to avoid CAIG DeoxIT DN5 and/or similar protective(?) materials

refer to posts #676, #677, #680, #682 on my project thread.

I believe "periodical, say semi-annual, check and cleaning" using pure IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) would be the best way to go;

Spoiler: Semiannual complete cleaning of all the metal-to-metal connectors

- Semiannual complete cleaning of all the metal-to-metal connectors: #671
- Semi-annual intensive cleaning of all the metal-to-metal connectors/contacts, and complete renewal of all the tin-electroplated copper terminals with heat-shrink insulators: #895
- Renewal of SP cabling boards beside SP systems: #906

and,,, only if you would be interested;
- The latest system setup of my DSP-based multichannel multi-SP-driver multi-amplifier fully active audio rig: #931

- The latest Fq-SPL (re-confirmation) of multiple amplifiers SP high-level output signals and that of room air sound at listening position: all measured by “FFT averaging of recorded cumulative DSP-processed flat white noise” (as of June 8, 2025): #1,009

 

[NTK]

Standard banana plugs aren't intended to be "secure" but more for convenience (easy connection and disconnection). There are "locking" banana plugs which may be more secure. Looks like OP inserted the banana plug into the hole intended for straight wire connection. The electrical contact will likely be very good and the connection is secure. But the banana plug is likely crunched and probably won't function well any more as a banana plug.

As for what is optimal? Depends on what goal(s) you are trying to achieve. For a secure connection, IMHO probably a lug (ring lug will be more secure than a spade) or straight wire connection using a wire ferrule.

 

[BJL]

I think they are banana plugs? No, they aren't loose.

It's this:

https://www.amazon.com/CESS-037-Banana-Speaker-Strand-Silicone/dp/B08ZMNBL8W?th=1

I feel silly explaining this, but if I strip off the banana plugs the wires might not be long enough to work! I really need to get some more speaker wire...

Sorry my mistake, but if they aren't loose, are nicely locked in, and there is no intermittence or other audible problem, no reason to worry about it.

 

[dualazmak]

They are tightened on with the screws, and seem fairly secure, but is using bare wire a better idea for more contact? Putting them in the normal way did not seem secure!

View attachment 475013

Looking at your photo, I am very much afraid of possible short-circuit (which will destroy your amplifier!) between plus-SP-cable and minus-SP-cable, if the top portions of the banana plugs (or pins) would touch on the SP-cabling metal-panel and the panel would not be fully electric-insulated, even though the panel looks covered by insulator paint.

 

[olds1959special]

Looking at your photo, I am very much afraid of possible short-circuit (which will destroy your amplifier!) between plus-SP-cable and minus-SP-cable, if the top portions of the banana plugs (or pins) would touch on the SP-cabling metal-panel and the panel would not be fully electric-insulated, even though the panel looks covered by insulator paint.
View attachment 475016

I'm not sure, but maybe the plate is plastic? Anyway, thanks! I moved my speakers an inch or two and then just attached bare wire after stripping off the banana plugs.