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Onkyo TX-RZ30 AV Receiver Review

Rate this AVR:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 90 45.2%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 84 42.2%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 23 11.6%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 2 1.0%

  • Total voters
    199
There is a lot talk about power, but how many people actually checked power used? Set your preferred volume, connect oscilloscope or even RMS voltmeter to a speaker and look for the peak V. Then estimate peak power as V*V/4. I prefer quiet music and I know that I listen below 1W/channel. Anyone to share their results?
 
Denon 3800H $1700 + Dirac License $300 + 2- SVS 1000 Pro subs $1200 + 2 speakers $1500 = $4700

Onkyo RZ30/w Dirac $800 + 2- SVS 1000 Pro subs $1200 + 2 speakers $1500 = $3500

Difference: $1200
Choosing the RZ30 bought you 2 subs but your speaker choices are limited and careful
 
It's not a 35W amplifier at 4 ohm, this is misinformation. Only if the protection is active. Amir can trigger this by a stress test.

For your use case you can consider this at 800 vs the Denon at +2,000 incl. Dirac according to another post.

Or grab the Onkyo and put 1,200 towards a Buckeye amp if you fear the limit. This was my plan back in the day, but I never ran into any constraints (granted I have an active sub which substantially lower the stress on the avr).

Noone can prove that the protection will not be triggered by your usage. But at this level 800 and 2000 and completely different price segments.
 
Denon 3800H $1700 + Dirac License $300 + 2- SVS 1000 Pro subs $1200 + 2 speakers $1500 = $4700

Onkyo RZ30/w Dirac $800 + 2- SVS 1000 Pro subs $1200 + 2 speakers $1500 = $3500

Difference: $1200
Choosing the RZ30 bought you 2 subs but your speaker choices are limited and careful
That's a terrible comparison! Who compares retail price (Denon) against street price (Onkyo)? We all know (or at least we should by now) that Denon has a beefier amp/power output logic, stronger DSP for ART, and appropriate heatsinks where HDMI failure is not as likely in the more expensive 3800. I've said it before: you get what you pay for!
 
I made a thread that is peppered w/complaints from owners on AVS. I know of at least one user who has since moved on to Denon. I'm sure there are more since ART came out.

Do we live in different realities? I see 3 answers there and no complaint about protected mode for over 1.5 year. Well, it is some kind of proof :)
 
It is my estimation based on power draw at idle. I have tested 3800 for a week, then sent it back, because it didn't work correctly. You are using 3800? Then it is not that difficult to check.
Then I'd like for you to qualify your statement as such in your original post. It's not fair for me to correct my speculations and/or untruths just for your post to sit somewhere as "fact" in the meantime.

I'm not an EE so I don't have the capability of checking the 3800 myself under elective 4 ohm impedance.
 
Do we live in different realities? I see 3 answers there and no complaint about protected mode for over 1.5 year. Well, it is some kind of proof :)
Yes, we live in different realities. I let the thread die because it was "unpopular" amongst owners and I still want to be a contributing and productive member (if you were an active member of AVS, you would know this). You will have no such luck here on ASR as the discovery was made by Amir here and the Onkyo apologists are in the minority.
 
I think Denon 3800 is about 50W, when set to 4 Ohm.
There's no mention of power draw at idle here nor the fact that it was your estimation. Besides, who estimates power output based on "idle draw"?!! Is this a thing that EEs accept?
 
There's no mention of power draw at idle here nor the fact that it was your estimation. Besides, who estimates power output based on "idle draw"?!! Is this a thing that EEs accept?
Yes, this is exactly EE knowledge.
 
Yes, this is exactly EE knowledge.
Ok, I will accept this as true for now as the 40W estimate is similar to the 30-35W experienced by the RZ30 "unintended 4 ohm mode". I think most people on ASR can appreciate the "elective" vs "non-elective" state even if why Onkyo decided on this is a mystery.
 
There's no mention of power draw at idle here nor the fact that it was your estimation. Besides, who estimates power output based on "idle draw"?!! Is this a thing that EEs accept?
What "idle draw"? What's the debate here? I am just curious..
 
That's a terrible comparison! Who compares retail price (Denon) against street price (Onkyo)? We all know (or at least we should by now) that Denon has a beefier amp/power output logic, stronger DSP for ART, and appropriate heatsinks where HDMI failure is not as likely in the more expensive 3800. I've said it before: you get what you pay for!
Again, the problem that virtually no RZ30 owners are having lacks a display warning if it were to occur and matching speakers is more limited to stay that way. Also, the street price of th Denon 3800H is ~$2000 with Dirac and RZ30 is ~$800 which is enough to buy SVS subs, that have their own DSP, by the way. I do think that that you are living in a different reality if your room and budget are modest and not saving enough to buy two subs choosing the RZ30 over the 3800.
 
What "idle draw"? What's the debate here? I am just curious..
Yes, my fault.

You turn AVR on, but don't play any sound. That's idle state and you can measure power draw at power socket. This power consist of power drawn by amps and the rest of the circuits. Amps have 2 switchable supply rails. Usually for 8 Ohm speakers it is about +-60V, you can find it in service manual. For 4 Ohm it is lower and often not described in manual. The rest of the circuits works at the same voltage and draws similar power, regardless of speaker settings.

AVRs like Denon or Onkyo, use class AB amplifiers. They are proven design, which usually doesn't varies between generation. Even for different manufacurers, design is quite similar. Class AB amplifier draws a constant current at idle. This is usually around 50mA and doesn't depend on supply voltage. So for 9 amps working at +-60V you can estimate idle power as 9*0.05*120 = 54W.

My guess is that the rest of the circuit draws about 10-20W. Let say it is 15W. Then idle power at 8 Ohm setting could be 15 + 54 ~= 70W.

If you set AVR for 4 Ohm, then idle power decrease. Let say it is 40W. Substracting 15W for the rest of circuits, we get 25W for amps. And we can calculate supply voltage: 25/9/0.05 ~= 56V = +-28V

That was a simplified calculation of idle power. In reality we can measure idle power at power socket, but we don't know what is voltage of supply rails or power drawn by the rest of the circuits. That is kind of guesswork. I think 60V for rails is quite good estimation. 15W for rest not so, but it could work. Let say we measure idle power as above, 70W and 40W. From measured values and assumed values we can calculate low voltage for rails:
Vlow = 2*60V*(40W - 15W)/(70W - 15W) ~= 2*27V

Supply voltage for rails is not stabilised. It drops at high output power. Drop could be as much as 1/3 of idle voltage. So for 60V we get about 40V, for 27V we get max 18V at full power output. It is a rough estimation, that can be uset to calculate maximum output power with sinusoidal test signal. It would be:
for 8 Ohm settings, 4 Ohm real load, +-60V rails: 40*40/4/2 = 200W
for 4 Ohm settings, 4 Ohm real load, +-27V rails: 18*18/4/2 = 40.5W

More or less this is my reasoning to estimate output power of Denon with 4 Ohm settings. I don't remember the real values I have measured. I only remember my estimation. Sure, it could be wrong, my memory is really weak ;)
 
I can see that this thread will be leading some people into power amps. No math, no worries. If sufficient watts, just plays loud and clear.
 
No math, no worries. If sufficient watts, just plays loud and clear.
That's already happening with owners but for Amir and non-owners it's a big deal, I guess. If you have large demanding speakers and no sub, steer clear of the RZ30.
 
Again, the problem that virtually no RZ30 owners are having lacks a display warning if it were to occur and matching speakers is more limited to stay that way. Also, the street price of th Denon 3800H is ~$2000 with Dirac and RZ30 is ~$800 which is enough to buy SVS subs, that have their own DSP, by the way. I do think that that you are living in a different reality if your room and budget are modest and not saving enough to buy two subs choosing the RZ30 over the 3800.

Depends on what you’re looking for. You get more mileage with 4 SW outs on ART than an avr that tops out at 2 SW outs and DLBC. Again, you get what you pay for. Does anyone recognize we’re in an arms race or is D&M “overcharging” for nothing?
 
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If you got the dough, a big room for all those boxes, WAF, time and patience to integrate 9 transducers, and those golden ears to hear those improvements, sure go for it. If you live in a smaller dwelling or renting the RZ30 is a hell of deal at $800 with a lot EOU and money for better speakers. I believe all of those owners that are not seeing any power limitations. Also SINAD over 80 is not audible but one can get extra 30 of those ghosts for very little cash. Sorry a bit OT.
 
Yes, my fault.

You turn AVR on, but don't play any sound. That's idle state and you can measure power draw at power socket. This power consist of power drawn by amps and the rest of the circuits. Amps have 2 switchable supply rails. Usually for 8 Ohm speakers it is about +-60V, you can find it in service manual. For 4 Ohm it is lower and often not described in manual. The rest of the circuits works at the same voltage and draws similar power, regardless of speaker settings.

AVRs like Denon or Onkyo, use class AB amplifiers. They are proven design, which usually doesn't varies between generation. Even for different manufacurers, design is quite similar. Class AB amplifier draws a constant current at idle. This is usually around 50mA and doesn't depend on supply voltage. So for 9 amps working at +-60V you can estimate idle power as 9*0.05*120 = 54W.

My guess is that the rest of the circuit draws about 10-20W. Let say it is 15W. Then idle power at 8 Ohm setting could be 15 + 54 ~= 70W.

If you set AVR for 4 Ohm, then idle power decrease. Let say it is 40W. Substracting 15W for the rest of circuits, we get 25W for amps. And we can calculate supply voltage: 25/9/0.05 ~= 56V = +-28V

That was a simplified calculation of idle power. In reality we can measure idle power at power socket, but we don't know what is voltage of supply rails or power drawn by the rest of the circuits. That is kind of guesswork. I think 60V for rails is quite good estimation. 15W for rest not so, but it could work. Let say we measure idle power as above, 70W and 40W. From measured values and assumed values we can calculate low voltage for rails:
Vlow = 2*60V*(40W - 15W)/(70W - 15W) ~= 2*27V

Supply voltage for rails is not stabilised. It drops at high output power. Drop could be as much as 1/3 of idle voltage. So for 60V we get about 40V, for 27V we get max 18V at full power output. It is a rough estimation, that can be uset to calculate maximum output power with sinusoidal test signal. It would be:
for 8 Ohm settings, 4 Ohm real load, +-60V rails: 40*40/4/2 = 200W
for 4 Ohm settings, 4 Ohm real load, +-27V rails: 18*18/4/2 = 40.5W

More or less this is my reasoning to estimate output power of Denon with 4 Ohm settings. I don't remember the real values I have measured. I only remember my estimation. Sure, it could be wrong, my memory is really weak ;)

Thanks, I understand what you are saying, but that has nothing to do with my question at all. My question referred to @EWL5's post#27 (may be he could clarify that for me), in which he responded to your post, stating:

There's no mention of power draw at idle here nor the fact that it was your estimation. Besides, who estimates power output based on "idle draw"?!! Is this a thing that EEs accept?


Yet in your post, you never mentioned "idle draw". That's what I was curious/confused about, wondering what @EWL5 was referring to. Maybe he responded after you edited your post, I have no idea.

I thought your post meant to say the Denon's rated output into 4 ohms was 50 W, two channels driven, when the impedance setting was set to 4 ohms.
Anyway, it doesn't matter, whether it is the so called idle draw, or output into 4 ohms when set to 4 ohms impedance. To me, Amir's measurements are much more useful, as I would never use the 4 ohms impedance setting anyway (if I own an AVR). As to the RZ30, I would just repeat that I have no issue with the so called limp mode if it comes with an alert of some kind, but it doesn't so yeah in that sense, I think it sucks, for users who may not know their >$1,000 AVR is in limp mode. I think it can be a very good preamp/dac for use with external amps if in fact the street price is around $800.
 
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