Older Amplifiers Better?

[EJ3]

Did you periodically (ever few years) open it up and check for signs of bad electrolytic caps? Longevity for them have come a long way.

There is a real 'limited usable lifespan' for much of modern technology. What was once SOTA can get so antiquated so fast. Not so much for amplifiers as I can't forsee a wholesale change from RCA or XLR. Not like component video to 1080p HDMI. How many AVR/AVP ended up in the dump simply as someone bought a new TV?

That is one of my thoughts. By their nature there is far more "ripple" current in any switch mode output which requires filtering so as to be inaudible. How long does it take before it may impact audibility or reliability? What is the long term supply of the microchips down the road? Really only time will tell on the typical longevity of them

About 7 years ago I had Peter Williams at QuirkAudio go through some of my amps & preamps (because some updates [there is on going research] have occurred, I will be sending them o him again next year {both the amps & the preAmps})
:
My 2 APT/Holman PreAmps are from (1977-1983). APT made both pre-amps and power amps designed by Tom Holman (of THX fame) Apt was his company.
What I had Peter at Quirk Audio do for me:

• New power supply capacitors of higher capacity
• replacement of all electrolytic capacitors with new audio quality Nichicon (including bipolar and additional capacitance at appropriate circuit points) and Wima film types.
• New IC’s through out all in sockets (including the regulator IC’s)
• New higher capacity bridge rectifier
• Replacement of the relay
  Amirm reviewed one of mine here:

• Apt Holman Preamplifier Review (vintage Audio)​

My NAD 2200's are from (1987-1989).
Again, Peter at Quirk Audio did for me:
The upgrade involves replacing the relays and all the electrolytic capacitors, except the 120v 10,000uf pair, as there are no suitable replacements available that can fit the available space. Generally these capacitors are still within specification as they form part of the 95volt power rail that is only applied under high transient load. NAD cleverly have two supply rails a 60v and 95v, both of which drive the output transistors, with the 60v rail providing power under normal load, and the 95v rail under high transient load. This is how they get the extra 6db of headroom these amplifiers deliver.

All the other electrolytic capacitors are replaced with audio grade electrolytics, or where required low impedance types. Some of the lower value electrolytics are replaced with film types as are some of the ceramic capacitors. Additional capacitance is provided at certain points in the circuit (input board rails and VAS).

The input board for these amps comprises an IC for each channel and associated circuitry. The IC’s are significantly upgraded with modern types, which considerably drops the noise floor and gives a more open and detailed sound.

The main issue with these units are the relays, which should always be replaced, to date I have only had one unit where the 10000uf 120v capacitors have not been within specification. More recently I have found a suitable replacement for the 10000uf 120v units, which I now include on all units. The new caps are rated 100v with 125v surge and as the rail voltage rarely gets over 90v they perform well.

Of course all the voltages are checked and any out of spec components replaced, the amplifiers are then biased and aligned. These amps are very well built and designed. I have the front panels resprayed and screen printed with the original NAD logo and lettering and matching color.
Amirm reviewed one of these 3 here:

NAD 2200 Vintage Amplifier Review​

These are my first 3 that I had done 7 years ago (I have six).

 

[Old_School_Brad]

About 7 years ago I had Peter Williams at QuirkAudio go through some of my amps & preamps (because some updates [there is on going research] have occurred, I will be sending them o him again next year {both the amps & the preAmps})
:
My 2 APT/Holman PreAmps are from (1977-1983). APT made both pre-amps and power amps designed by Tom Holman (of THX fame) Apt was his company.
What I had Peter at Quirk Audio do for me:

• New power supply capacitors of higher capacity
• replacement of all electrolytic capacitors with new audio quality Nichicon (including bipolar and additional capacitance at appropriate circuit points) and Wima film types.
• New IC’s through out all in sockets (including the regulator IC’s)
• New higher capacity bridge rectifier
• Replacement of the relay
  Amirm reviewed one of mine here:

• Apt Holman Preamplifier Review (vintage Audio)​

My NAD 2200's are from (1987-1989).
Again, Peter at Quirk Audio did for me:
The upgrade involves replacing the relays and all the electrolytic capacitors, except the 120v 10,000uf pair, as there are no suitable replacements available that can fit the available space. Generally these capacitors are still within specification as they form part of the 95volt power rail that is only applied under high transient load. NAD cleverly have two supply rails a 60v and 95v, both of which drive the output transistors, with the 60v rail providing power under normal load, and the 95v rail under high transient load. This is how they get the extra 6db of headroom these amplifiers deliver.

All the other electrolytic capacitors are replaced with audio grade electrolytics, or where required low impedance types. Some of the lower value electrolytics are replaced with film types as are some of the ceramic capacitors. Additional capacitance is provided at certain points in the circuit (input board rails and VAS).

The input board for these amps comprises an IC for each channel and associated circuitry. The IC’s are significantly upgraded with modern types, which considerably drops the noise floor and gives a more open and detailed sound.

The main issue with these units are the relays, which should always be replaced, to date I have only had one unit where the 10000uf 120v capacitors have not been within specification. More recently I have found a suitable replacement for the 10000uf 120v units, which I now include on all units. The new caps are rated 100v with 125v surge and as the rail voltage rarely gets over 90v they perform well.

Of course all the voltages are checked and any out of spec components replaced, the amplifiers are then biased and aligned. These amps are very well built and designed. I have the front panels resprayed and screen printed with the original NAD logo and lettering and matching color.
Amirm reviewed one of these 3 here:

NAD 2200 Vintage Amplifier Review​

These are my first 3 that I had done 7 years ago (I have six).

I thought you did a pretty good job restoring those amplifiers until I saw that you repainted the front plates! That’s a step I’ve never taken with any components. I’m too worried I’d mess it up -getting the color wrong or not matching the fonts properly.

 

[EJ3]

I thought you did a pretty good job restoring those amplifiers until I saw that you repainted the front plates! That’s a step I’ve never taken with any components. I’m too worried I’d mess it up -getting the color wrong or not matching the fonts properly.

A professional car paint mixing/painter person, a very high end digital camera and a NOS Faceplate (as the template) is how that was done.
The whole units were painted, inside & out. Dent's & dings were also removed.
The fonts were done by a professional pin striper (accurate & steady hand). That was a separate paint match.
Peter only charged me what it cost to get it done, as he had no idea of how this was going to turn out. But now he can have it done in a rinse & repeat mode. Because I had confidence in him & pushed him to do this.

 

[EJ3]

I thought you did a pretty good job restoring those amplifiers until I saw that you repainted the front plates! That’s a step I’ve never taken with any components. I’m too worried I’d mess it up -getting the color wrong or not matching the fonts properly.

It's funny that not many notice that. But when they find out the amps are from 1988, they just think that you never moved them.
They have traveled with me by ship to Saipan, Guam. They have been shipped to LA, to Berkley, to Seattle, to James Island, SC (all those places twice).
Of course they needed paint & body work.
The expense was getting the first one done, the measurements, the color matching, the template (about $300 in 2015 (shipped them from Saipan to Berkley that time).
But, once the first one was done, the others were cheap to do because they had everything they needed to do it already. It was an assembly line, then.

 

[restorer-john]

Not sure if anyone has ever posted this youtube link, but it's actually a great history on NAD.

Apart from the utter BS about DSP in 1995 as being the "first" digital preamplifier etc, it's pretty good.

 

[Chrispy]

Did you periodically (ever few years) open it up and check for signs of bad electrolytic caps? Longevity for them have come a long way.

Why would I do that so often? It's not always caps that are an issue.

 

[EJ3]

Why would I do that so often? It's not always caps that are an issue.

Every 10 years or so is what I suggest. Updates & new types of electronics can improve them without changing the circuit design (If your tech keeps up with new tech:
Here is an example with my 1987 NAD 2200's (EJ3: only 1/2 of this was known [and some of it couldn't even be done due to materials] 15 years ago):

NAD 2200 mods and upgrades​

By QuirkAudioAugust 14, 2016Audio, upgrades

I (Peter Williams of Quirk Audio) have been recapping and modding NAD 2200s for a while now- and wanted to give some details back to the community:
I have now done a considerable number of these upgrades and based a number of mods from AK and DIY Audio and others listings, as well as my own measurements and tests, and have settled on what I think optimizes the performance of these amplifiers:
The 2200 has 4 boards, input, power supply and one or each main amplifier channel.
On the input board, C111-114- have been replaced with COG Ceramics and have added 47uf 50v in parallel with each of these (across the 18v supply lines to the input IC) and this provides better dynamics, using Nichicon PW or similar low impedance.
I tried Pilots (posted in AK) swapping of C109, C110 to 2.2uf 50v Wima- but ended up going back to Nichicon FG 10uf 50v- which gave more solid square wave response at frequencies below 100Hz, though more recently I have been using 22uf Nichicon MUSE UES Bipolar.
C107,C108- these were 820pf ceramics (circuit states 1000pf film)- so replaced these with WIMA 820pf 50v FKP.All other small value capacitors on the input board are replaced with WIMA FKP, except for C111..114 as mentioned and the three 27pf ceramics, which are replaced with C0G MLCC versions.
Interestingly the 2700 input boards use different values for the feedback resistors and capacitors (100pf rather than 27pf), and also remove and bridge C115/C116. On the later versions of the 2200PE with B or C boards I have adopted this approach, with a measurable improvement.
I replaced the 2043DD IC’s with LM4562NA- I had tried the OPA2134 (which is an IC I like), but again for me the LM4562NA is better suited to the amp-perhaps as it is BJT as is the 2043DD
On the main amp boards, C203, C204- I tried a few versions (2.2uf Film, 10uf Film- both WIMA, Nichicon KL, Nichicon FG) and finally settled on ELNA SIMLIC II 10uf 50v- for me this kept the detail and was smoothest- also kept the LF square wave tidy, however as these are discontinued, I have now evolved to a Nichicon MUSE Bipolar 47uf, as this is similar to what was used on the 2600A/2700.
C215-218- These support the 18v rails that provide the power to the initial VAS stage of the power amplifier boards, and as such larger values provide a greater local reservoir. Replacing the original 2.2uf 50v with 470uf 50v makes quite a difference, “more bass” and better dynamics, I have settled on Nichicon HE (ultra low impedance)
I now replace all the ceramic capacitors on the main amp board with FKP WIMA polypropylene except the 1uf which I use an MKS polyester. There is one 22pf ceramic C305/C306 which I replace with a 22pf C0G ceramic. On the 2600A /2700 NAD use a silver mica cap here. The 68pf feedback capacitor is also mica on the 2600/2700, though i could not detect any difference between the Mica and an FKP.
All the other electrolytic capacitors have been replaced as follows:
Power supply- 330uf are replaced with 470uf, all other with the same values using Nichicon PW, the 1uf and 0.47uf are replaced with KEMET polyester film.
Power amp- all are replaced with Nichicon PW except C223, C224, which are replaced by film, C311, C312, are Nichicon UFG and C203,C204- were ELNA Simlic II as mentioned, though now are UES MUSE Nichicon.
10,000uf 80v with Nichicon or equivalent
The 10000uf 120v are unobtainable, and the 160V versions are both expensive and don’t fit- so I now have settled on Nippon Chemicon 10,000uf 100v (125v surge) replacements, which given that the high power rails are 95v, work very well indeed. These have been operational for over 72 months with no problems.
The Nippon Chemicon series capacitors have been discontinued, so I now use KEMET ALC for the 120v capacitors which are rated at 100v with 115v surge. The 80v capacitors are Nichicon, though I now uprate these to 12,000uf on the later B and C board versions.
The troublesome relays are replaced as is the bridge rectifier for the 18v rails. I have also sourced some excellent new speaker terminals.
For me this is the best NAD mod yet-excellent transparency and detail, more and firmer bass, better dynamics and measures well, the low frequency phase shift and roll off has been addressed with these further modifications though there is a small amount from about 50hz downwards on the normal input, though with the LAB inputs less so as expected. The overall THD is an order of magnitude better than the original specifications.
one thought is to bypass the 10k ufs with a film cap (1uf?)- I did try this and could not measure any difference.

 

[HaveMeterWillTravel]

About 7 years ago I had Peter Williams at QuirkAudio go through some of my amps & preamps (because some updates [there is on going research] have occurred, I will be sending them o him again next year {both the amps & the preAmps})
:

Very nicely done.

Why would I do that so often? It's not always caps that are an issue.

I was speaking in terms of amplifiers and the caps from the 60s & 70s. Newer caps are definitely more durable thanks to improvements.

 

[Chrispy]

Very nicely done.

I was speaking in terms of amplifiers and the caps from the 60s & 70s. Newer caps are definitely more durable thanks to improvements.

These were/are from the 80s fwiw.

 

[Chrispy]

Every 10 years or so is what I suggest. Updates & new types of electronics can improve them without changing the circuit design (If your tech keeps up with new tech:
Here is an example with my 1987 NAD 2200's (EJ3: only 1/2 of this was known [and some of it couldn't even be done due to materials] 15 years ago):

NAD 2200 mods and upgrades​

By QuirkAudioAugust 14, 2016Audio, upgrades

I (Peter Williams of Quirk Audio) have been recapping and modding NAD 2200s for a while now- and wanted to give some details back to the community:
I have now done a considerable number of these upgrades and based a number of mods from AK and DIY Audio and others listings, as well as my own measurements and tests, and have settled on what I think optimizes the performance of these amplifiers:
The 2200 has 4 boards, input, power supply and one or each main amplifier channel.
On the input board, C111-114- have been replaced with COG Ceramics and have added 47uf 50v in parallel with each of these (across the 18v supply lines to the input IC) and this provides better dynamics, using Nichicon PW or similar low impedance.
I tried Pilots (posted in AK) swapping of C109, C110 to 2.2uf 50v Wima- but ended up going back to Nichicon FG 10uf 50v- which gave more solid square wave response at frequencies below 100Hz, though more recently I have been using 22uf Nichicon MUSE UES Bipolar.
C107,C108- these were 820pf ceramics (circuit states 1000pf film)- so replaced these with WIMA 820pf 50v FKP.All other small value capacitors on the input board are replaced with WIMA FKP, except for C111..114 as mentioned and the three 27pf ceramics, which are replaced with C0G MLCC versions.
Interestingly the 2700 input boards use different values for the feedback resistors and capacitors (100pf rather than 27pf), and also remove and bridge C115/C116. On the later versions of the 2200PE with B or C boards I have adopted this approach, with a measurable improvement.
I replaced the 2043DD IC’s with LM4562NA- I had tried the OPA2134 (which is an IC I like), but again for me the LM4562NA is better suited to the amp-perhaps as it is BJT as is the 2043DD
On the main amp boards, C203, C204- I tried a few versions (2.2uf Film, 10uf Film- both WIMA, Nichicon KL, Nichicon FG) and finally settled on ELNA SIMLIC II 10uf 50v- for me this kept the detail and was smoothest- also kept the LF square wave tidy, however as these are discontinued, I have now evolved to a Nichicon MUSE Bipolar 47uf, as this is similar to what was used on the 2600A/2700.
C215-218- These support the 18v rails that provide the power to the initial VAS stage of the power amplifier boards, and as such larger values provide a greater local reservoir. Replacing the original 2.2uf 50v with 470uf 50v makes quite a difference, “more bass” and better dynamics, I have settled on Nichicon HE (ultra low impedance)
I now replace all the ceramic capacitors on the main amp board with FKP WIMA polypropylene except the 1uf which I use an MKS polyester. There is one 22pf ceramic C305/C306 which I replace with a 22pf C0G ceramic. On the 2600A /2700 NAD use a silver mica cap here. The 68pf feedback capacitor is also mica on the 2600/2700, though i could not detect any difference between the Mica and an FKP.
All the other electrolytic capacitors have been replaced as follows:
Power supply- 330uf are replaced with 470uf, all other with the same values using Nichicon PW, the 1uf and 0.47uf are replaced with KEMET polyester film.
Power amp- all are replaced with Nichicon PW except C223, C224, which are replaced by film, C311, C312, are Nichicon UFG and C203,C204- were ELNA Simlic II as mentioned, though now are UES MUSE Nichicon.
10,000uf 80v with Nichicon or equivalent
The 10000uf 120v are unobtainable, and the 160V versions are both expensive and don’t fit- so I now have settled on Nippon Chemicon 10,000uf 100v (125v surge) replacements, which given that the high power rails are 95v, work very well indeed. These have been operational for over 72 months with no problems.
The Nippon Chemicon series capacitors have been discontinued, so I now use KEMET ALC for the 120v capacitors which are rated at 100v with 115v surge. The 80v capacitors are Nichicon, though I now uprate these to 12,000uf on the later B and C board versions.
The troublesome relays are replaced as is the bridge rectifier for the 18v rails. I have also sourced some excellent new speaker terminals.
For me this is the best NAD mod yet-excellent transparency and detail, more and firmer bass, better dynamics and measures well, the low frequency phase shift and roll off has been addressed with these further modifications though there is a small amount from about 50hz downwards on the normal input, though with the LAB inputs less so as expected. The overall THD is an order of magnitude better than the original specifications.
one thought is to bypass the 10k ufs with a film cap (1uf?)- I did try this and could not measure any difference.

Who is going to do the work, tho? I did take two of them to an electronics repair/service shop after the blue smoke issue with the slightly older version of same amps....he gave a clean bill of health to both of them, altho the transformer issue in one of those came around a few months later. He closed up shop by then and that's in the nearest city 45 miles away, nothing local. There was another that closed up around the same time IIRC. Haven't had need particularly since, had spare amps and took the noisy one out for now.

 

[Cbdb2]

All the other electrolytic capacitors are replaced with audio grade electrolytics,

Whats the difference between "audio grade" and normal electrolytics?

 

[EJ3]

Whats the difference between "audio grade" and normal electrolytics?

From a sound perspective, maybe nothing. Form a long term reliability perspective...YMMV
People who have been doing things for many years know that certain items will work at their best for longer.
This is NOT someone that believes in WOO WOO this cable will give you a mane like a lion crazy stuff.
But, in the case of NAD 2200's they were manufactured in Japan, Korea & China.
I have never seen a Japanese one that was unrepairable, the Korean ones had a number of them that are unpreparable and I have never seen a Chinese one that was repairable.
Why is this? It is because of the grade of quality of the electronic parts that were being used by each country's manufacturers at the time.
They all met (or exceeded) the specs at the time of manufacture. But just a few years later some were going downhill fast & it was mainly due to leaking capacitors, which then destroyed other parts of the circuits.
People that have these units (like myself) have known about these issues since 1989 or so.
Naturally, the #1 question that us old guys asked the techs that worked on our gear was "You are not using those cr;ppy electrolytics, are you? I want some rreal audio grade electrolytics in there.
At the time, it just meant better quality than the crpy ones. These days, it has morphed into a serious negative thing because some people turned a simple description into some kind of crazy, over the top money sucking marketing term. And even managed to convince some people to spend money on it because their mind supposedly can "hear the difference".
Which causes people like you to question what people like me (and many others) are talking about...
Communication Breakdown, simple as that.

 

[EJ3]

Who is going to do the work, tho? I did take two of them to an electronics repair/service shop after the blue smoke issue with the slightly older version of same amps....he gave a clean bill of health to both of them, altho the transformer issue in one of those came around a few months later. He closed up shop by then and that's in the nearest city 45 miles away, nothing local. There was another that closed up around the same time IIRC. Haven't had need particularly since, had spare amps and took the noisy one out for now.

I provided that information. At least of who does mine. There are many more.
So let me try again (I'll put out 2 companies that do my work [I usually deal with the company owners but not always]):
https://quirkaudio.com/

QuirkAudio: Home​

About Quirk Audio. QuirkAudio upgrades and refurbishes audio components from the classic audio decades of the 1950s to the 2000s. QuirkAudio selects those ...
·
Blog
·
Services
·
Amplifiers
·
About us
Visit in Anonymous View
https://quirkaudio.com/?cat=1

Restorations and upgrades Archives - QuirkAudio​

Restorations and upgrades



AUDIO PROZ
Search Audio Proz

• Home
• Products
• Services
• Articles
• Vinc Music
• About Us

Audio Proz Service and Sales​

SHIPPING ADDRESS: 779 Mt. Auburn St., Watertown MA 02472
PHONE: (617)926-8020
EMAIL: [email protected]
M(12-7), W-F(12-7), SAT(11-3)
Closed Tuesday and Sunday

Buying Parts
or Equipment?​

Audio Proz has been in the Hi-Fi and Pro Audio business for over 40 years. The owner, Vince Naeve has worked for companies such as Apt, H.H. Scott, and KLH. We are a different kind of shop. We assist our customers by helping them choose the correct equipment for their application, with special attention to the serviceability, longevity and manufacturer support. We try to be competitive on prices for new products and all of our used items are fully serviced, calibrated and Warranteed. We do not stock cheap throw away electronics that are actually more expensive to own and needlessly pollute the environment.
Start Shopping

Selling to
Audio Proz?​

For the sake of efficiency, we require that sellers of equipment get some idea of the current market value of their gear BEFORE contacting us. This can be a range, a target price, or a minimum price. This way we don't waste any of your time if your asking price is more than we can pay as a servicing reseller. Once you have a list of the items to sell - including the make and model number, physical and operational condition, and your target price, fill out the form or email us. We will probably ask you some questions about the gear, then we can schedule an appointment. (Include your phone number so we can call you back). Please do NOT bring anything in unless it's been scheduled beforehand We are a small shop with very limited floor space.
Inquire about Selling to us

Need Repairs
or Services?​

We service a wide range of products, from stereo receivers and consumer tape decks, to professional studio processors and reel recorders, turntables to hard disk recorders, field recorders and currently we are also doing guitar amps. Read More about our guitar and bass amplifier repairs and modifications here. We have a huge inventory of parts required for our service (tubes, transistors, caps, controls, etc). We take a comprehensive approach to repairs and specialize in restoring vintage Pioneer, Marantz, Harmon Kardon, and many others. Every repair is thoroughly cleaned, maintenanced and calibrated so your unit leaves with all functions working properly. We also do custom modifications to equipment such as Electrix Repeater, Apt Holman Pre Amp, Art Pro Channel, B2-Pro Mic and Speakers of all kinds.
Inquire about Services

---

EveNing - Check out some samples from Vince's home studio recording project. These recordings are live takes recorded directly to DAT using Electrix Repeaters to loop rhythm and bass while Vince plays guitar, keyboards, Congas, etc. all real-time, all one shot, mainly improvised. He creates a new age/avant garde soundscape.

EveNing available to listen and download here.

---

Copyright © Audio Proz 2023 - Site Constructed by Amlaw D​

 

[Old_School_Brad]

Whats the difference between "audio grade" and normal electrolytics?

Sometimes there are differences, and sometimes there aren't. Sometimes the changes are beneficial, and sometimes they aren't.

That said, if you're considering resale value versus personal use, it's generally a good idea to opt for "audio grade" components if you plan to sell.

Spoiler: Nichicon Cap. comparison

 

[Chrispy]

I provided that information. At least of who does mine. There are many more.
So let me try again (I'll put out 2 companies that do my work [I usually deal with the company owners but not always]):
https://quirkaudio.com/

QuirkAudio: Home​

About Quirk Audio. QuirkAudio upgrades and refurbishes audio components from the classic audio decades of the 1950s to the 2000s. QuirkAudio selects those ...
·
Blog
·
Services
·
Amplifiers
·
About us
Visit in Anonymous View
https://quirkaudio.com/?cat=1

Restorations and upgrades Archives - QuirkAudio​

Restorations and upgrades



AUDIO PROZ
Search Audio Proz

• Home
• Products
• Services
• Articles
• Vinc Music
• About Us

Audio Proz Service and Sales​

SHIPPING ADDRESS: 779 Mt. Auburn St., Watertown MA 02472
PHONE: (617)926-8020
EMAIL: [email protected]
M(12-7), W-F(12-7), SAT(11-3)
Closed Tuesday and Sunday
​

Buying Parts​

or Equipment?​

Audio Proz has been in the Hi-Fi and Pro Audio business for over 40 years. The owner, Vince Naeve has worked for companies such as Apt, H.H. Scott, and KLH. We are a different kind of shop. We assist our customers by helping them choose the correct equipment for their application, with special attention to the serviceability, longevity and manufacturer support. We try to be competitive on prices for new products and all of our used items are fully serviced, calibrated and Warranteed. We do not stock cheap throw away electronics that are actually more expensive to own and needlessly pollute the environment.
Start Shopping

​

Selling to​

Audio Proz?​

For the sake of efficiency, we require that sellers of equipment get some idea of the current market value of their gear BEFORE contacting us. This can be a range, a target price, or a minimum price. This way we don't waste any of your time if your asking price is more than we can pay as a servicing reseller. Once you have a list of the items to sell - including the make and model number, physical and operational condition, and your target price, fill out the form or email us. We will probably ask you some questions about the gear, then we can schedule an appointment. (Include your phone number so we can call you back). Please do NOT bring anything in unless it's been scheduled beforehand We are a small shop with very limited floor space.
Inquire about Selling to us

​

Need Repairs​

or Services?​

We service a wide range of products, from stereo receivers and consumer tape decks, to professional studio processors and reel recorders, turntables to hard disk recorders, field recorders and currently we are also doing guitar amps. Read More about our guitar and bass amplifier repairs and modifications here. We have a huge inventory of parts required for our service (tubes, transistors, caps, controls, etc). We take a comprehensive approach to repairs and specialize in restoring vintage Pioneer, Marantz, Harmon Kardon, and many others. Every repair is thoroughly cleaned, maintenanced and calibrated so your unit leaves with all functions working properly. We also do custom modifications to equipment such as Electrix Repeater, Apt Holman Pre Amp, Art Pro Channel, B2-Pro Mic and Speakers of all kinds.
Inquire about Services
​

---

EveNing - Check out some samples from Vince's home studio recording project. These recordings are live takes recorded directly to DAT using Electrix Repeaters to loop rhythm and bass while Vince plays guitar, keyboards, Congas, etc. all real-time, all one shot, mainly improvised. He creates a new age/avant garde soundscape.

EveNing available to listen and download here.



​

---

Copyright © Audio Proz 2023 - Site Constructed by Amlaw D​

FWIW my comments were more oriented to local places vs. where the additional shipping issues come into play. It's just a narrowing of choices in this regard, let alone actual competence.

 

[EJ3]

FWIW my comments were more oriented to local places vs. where the additional shipping issues come into play. It's just a narrowing of choices in this regard, let alone actual competence.

Many of the reliable local places (for many things, not just stereo gear & TV) have disappeared and the newer people can only swap circuuit boards instead of finding the fault & repairing the problem.
As we have become more & more a throwaway society, that is what is happening. The less that people want something repaired to last, the less there are people capable of doing those repairs. And the more stuff goes into the landfills because of consumerism, just the opposite goal of some that say "recycle". Throwing it away into the BLUE can is generally the same as just throwing it away in most places.

 

[Old_School_Brad]

Many of the reliable local places (for many things, not just stereo gear & TV) have disappeared and the newer people can only swap circuuit boards instead of finding the fault & repairing the problem.
As we have become more & more a throwaway society, that is what is happening. The less that people want something repaired to last, the less there are people capable of doing those repairs. And the more stuff goes into the landfills because of consumerism, just the opposite goal of some that say "recycle". Throwing it away into the BLUE can is generally the same as just throwing it away in most places.

The frustrating part is that we already know how to build things that last. Even mid-range amplifiers from the '80s and '90s are still being sold on the used market -and they still work, even after 40 to 50 years.

I’ll admit, I’m biased, but that bias comes from observation, experience, and patterns that suggest to me that we won’t see Purifi amplifiers from 2022 being resold in 2060 or 2070.

 

[EJ3]

The frustrating part is that we already know how to build things that last. Even mid-range amplifiers from the '80s and '90s are still being sold on the used market -and they still work, even after 40 to 50 years.

I’ll admit, I’m biased, but that bias comes from observation, experience, and patterns that suggest to me that we won’t see Purifi amplifiers from 2022 being resold in 2060 or 2070.

I'll be 68 shortly. I expect to have my gear refurbished 2 more times in my life (men in my family may get to the early 90's & women to the mid 90's.
But I do expect that what I bought in 1987 will be still working when I no longer am existing here.

 

[zag55]

Buongiorno. Datemi un consiglio. Dopo 23 anni, forse il mio Electrocompaniet ECI 2 ha bisogno di una revisione, che ovviamente ha un costo. Oppure compro un nuovo amplificatore? Grazie

 

[zag55]

Good morning. Give me some advice. After 23 years, perhaps my Electrocompaniet ECI 2 needs an overhaul, which obviously has a cost. Or do I buy a new amplifier? Thanks