Nobsound, shit or great?

[pseudoid]

I purchased a "BRZHiFi" model# PA-10 and I see that "NobSound" is selling the same item, but rebranded on the front panel.
The rear panels look similar w/subtle changes: XLR screws are different and the BRZHiFi versions Nomenclature "ANALOG IN" and "SPEAKERS-OUT" have been changed to read "ANALOGY-IN"and ANALOGY-OUT on the NobSound branded version.
Circuitry/parts and everything else appear similar w/top cover having different perforations for cooling...
But I sure wish, I can determine the real manufacturer and real schematics for the innards of the PA-10... I am still digging to get to the source of the design and can use some help, since I can't read chinese.

 

[zjx1017]

I purchased a "BRZHiFi" model# PA-10 and I see that "NobSound" is selling the same item, but rebranded on the front panel.
The rear panels look similar w/subtle changes: XLR screws are different and the BRZHiFi versions Nomenclature "ANALOG IN" and "SPEAKERS-OUT" have been changed to read "ANALOGY-IN"and ANALOGY-OUT on the NobSound branded version.
Circuitry/parts and everything else appear similar w/top cover having different perforations for cooling...
But I sure wish, I can determine the real manufacturer and real schematics for the innards of the PA-10... I am still digging to get to the source of the design and can use some help, since I can't read chinese.

How do you like your "BRZHIFI" amp so far?

 

[pseudoid]

How do you like your "BRZHIFI" amp so far?

BRZHiFi #PA-10 was a replacement purchase for an older Firestone BigJoeIII (class-D) that needed to be retired.
BRZHiFi was a 'blind-date' of sorts and we are still in the 'meet-n-greet' stage of our relationship. This purchase was part of my attempts at a whole-house connected music system but it is not my primary audio system with floor-standing Vandersteens getting fed by Rotel separates.
Thus far, the BRZHiFi amp sounds much more than adequate as a supplement and as an extension to my primary set-up.
I requested the Chief WhiteHat (and the companion pinkPanther) @ASR to do a smack-down test on this PowerAmp.
In the interim, the BRZHiFi provided specs seem capable enough, but I run a small set of bookshelf speakers with mine: Thus, I cannot (and should not) make recommendations without amirm confirming PA-10s performance.
IMHO >> She is a keepuh, including the 'excess luggage' she is equipped with; as I will have to come to terms w/a PowerAmp that features a RemoteControl, a nice display (b/w OLED?) and a BlueToothV5 (CSR8675 IC). At under $300, my wallet thinks BRZHiFi #PA-10 is a good Bang-for-the-Buck.

 

[zjx1017]

BRZHiFi #PA-10 was a replacement purchase for an older Firestone BigJoeIII (class-D) that needed to be retired.
BRZHiFi was a 'blind-date' of sorts and we are still in the 'meet-n-greet' stage of our relationship. This purchase was part of my attempts at a whole-house connected music system but it is not my primary audio system with floor-standing Vandersteens getting fed by Rotel separates.
Thus far, the BRZHiFi amp sounds much more than adequate as a supplement and as an extension to my primary set-up.
I requested the Chief WhiteHat (and the companion pinkPanther) @ASR to do a smack-down test on this PowerAmp.
In the interim, the BRZHiFi provided specs seem capable enough, but I run a small set of bookshelf speakers with mine: Thus, I cannot (and should not) make recommendations without amirm confirming PA-10s performance.
IMHO >> She is a keepuh, including the 'excess luggage' she is equipped with; as I will have to come to terms w/a PowerAmp that features a RemoteControl, a nice display (b/w OLED?) and a BlueToothV5 (CSR8675 IC). At under $300, my wallet thinks BRZHiFi #PA-10 is a good Bang-for-the-Buck.

nice! I'm very Intrigued, considering buying this BRZHiFi amp.It also would be a blind buying as you described.
I'm just glad that someone here already owns this amp. Hopefully the review of it would come out soon

 

[pseudoid]

nice! I'm very Intrigued, considering buying this BRZHiFi amp.It also would be a blind buying as you described.
I'm just glad that someone here already owns this amp. Hopefully the review of it would come out soon

This company "BRZHiFi" (Home Page?) is a mystery to me and I have done much search about them.

In the case of the BRZHiFi Model #PA-10, it appears that NobSound and/or Douk and/or Weiliang may share manufacturing with BRZHiFi but I can’t be sure. I think the real name of BRZHiFi ‘parent’ company is “Foshan Borui Yuanda Technology Co., Ltd.” Their AliBaba storefront states “Company’s new trademark BRZHiFi (the original breeze sound and bright audio)”. It appears that they used to be a aluminum fabrication shop; possibly making the audio hw chassis for other manufacturers... until a cheap Chinese LED light-bulb came on and we have BRZHiFi. I don't mind having NO 'user manual' but I sure wish I can find a schematic for the BRZHiFi #PA-10, that looks to be designed/built proper and is said to be balanced (differential?) design and has XLR inputs that I needed.
NOTE: I paid $175 + $83.59 (S/H) >> for a total of $287USD including taxes.
Edit: 2021/09/26 >> (added) (BRZHiFi >> NobSound >> Douk >> Weiliang >>) "GZLOZONE" << This last one maybe the source for the 1st four listed. "ZEROZONE" appears to be another fab shop in the (cloned) Chinese audio scene.

 

[zjx1017]

This company "BRZHiFi" (Home Page?) is a mystery to me and I have done much search about them.

In the case of the BRZHiFi Model #PA-10, it appears that NobSound and/or Douk and/or Weiliang may share manufacturing with BRZHiFi but I can’t be sure. I think the real name of BRZHiFi ‘parent’ company is “Foshan Borui Yuanda Technology Co., Ltd.” Their AliBaba storefront states “Company’s new trademark BRZHiFi (the original breeze sound and bright audio)”. It appears that they used to be a aluminum fabrication shop; possibly making the audio hw chassis for other manufacturers... until a cheap Chinese LED light-bulb came on and we have BRZHiFi. I don't mind having NO 'user manual' but I sure wish I can find a schematic for the BRZHiFi #PA-10, that looks to be designed/built proper and is said to be balanced (differential?) design and has XLR inputs that I needed.
NOTE: I paid $175 + $83.59 (S/H) >> for a total of $287USD including taxes.
Edit: 2021/09/26 >> (added) (BRZHiFi >> NobSound >> Douk >> Weiliang >>) "GZLOZONE" << This last one maybe the source for the 1st four listed. "ZEROZONE" appears to be another fab shop in the (cloned) Chinese audio scene.

did you do the "Opamp Rolling" to change the stock 5532 and 5534 into something else?

 

[pseudoid]

did you do the "Opamp Rolling" to change the stock 5532 and 5534 into something else?

Should I?
Should I also expect to hear a big diff (w/o resorting silly A/B tests).
Remembering that cost of such mods should be commensurate with the original price of the hardware. << IMHO.

 

[zjx1017]

Should I?
Should I also expect to hear a big diff (w/o resorting silly A/B tests).
Remembering that cost of such mods should be commensurate with the original price of the hardware. << IMHO.

As I acknowledge the NE5532 and NE5534 are a bit "warm-colored" or "musical" opamps. If you want the neutral and transparent sounding(lower distortion of the circuit), IMO the LME49720 would be a good choice to replace 5532 .They are also cheap,I bought 4 of them for only 12$.

 

[kevmore]

Greetings all, Looks like nobsound used to be called weiliang audio. https://www.aliexpressd-dot-com/item/32828199637.html
shows weiliang audio on the item sold as nobsound. I just got it today, and it looks pretty well made. The insides look fairly good with a nice big torroid. I just came on here looking for the consensus on this brand. Maybe it would have been prudent to do this first before adding to cart. I will return with my review once I get my cartridge for the turntable.

 

[Veri]

Greetings all, Looks like nobsound used to be called weiliang audio. https://www.aliexpressd-dot-com/item/32828199637.html
shows weiliang audio on the item sold as nobsound.

I think this just shows the 'Nobsound' store also sells weiliang item(s). Doesn't really mean it's the same producer/company.

 

[EdTice]

According to the product description, this Nobosound passive preamp (https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Ful...r/dp/B01MXC9HHW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2GW5JUHODMC67) uses the ALPS 09 quadruple fully-balanced potentiometer the same one in the Schitt preamps that cost like ten times more! I ordered one. For that price it can't hurt to try. That being said, I'm not sure that I'm going about solving my problem the right way. We like to do live singing nights once in a while (I don't call it karaoke as the quality of singing is much higher than that would conjure).

Current setup is that we play the music via AVR and then have a microphone hooked up by itself to a lonely mixing board and active speakers. Works but a pain in the neck as music volume can't be controlled on the mixer.

I'd like to send the pre-out of the AVR surround to the active speakers so that I can use the mixing board to adjust both music and microphone volume. I've tried this and it works swimmingly if I disconnect my LRC and turn the AVR to +5dB. But if I try to keep the mains at some reasonable volume, I don't get enough voltage into the mixing board for clean sound. Our normal listening is like -40dB (and yes I've run the room correction, it's a relatively small space) which just isn't much voltage out. S

So my plan is to attenuate everything before it hits the mains. Run the center channel off of an MA500 amp that I have laying around using this attenuator between the AVR and the MA500. The L/R off of an external amp with gain control (Bought a Behringer A800). I would expect this to improve sound quality in general since the AVR pre-amp will now be running closer to peak. And then I have more than enough voltage into the mixing board (Level indicator shows nice green and amber lights) But its a heck of a lot of complexity.

Anything for my wife I guess. But I'd love to hear alternative solutions!

 

[digicidal]

Anything for my wife I guess. But I'd love to hear alternative solutions!

Not sure if your AVR has a secondary zone preout but many do - and it should have separate gain (on my older Denon it even had a separate remote control). Long shot which might not work for you but if it did it would be easy to leave AVR settings as-is with no need for disconnections etc. Usually the secondary zones are stereo only, but since that's all you're looking for it would fit the bill nicely.

Although considering it's for your wife... great excuse for funding a completely separate setup with everything you've secretly wanted in a dedicated 2CH setup?

 

[TrevorD]

Actually I think they used to be called penisaudio.

 

[EdTice]

Not sure if your AVR has a secondary zone preout but many do - and it should have separate gain (on my older Denon it even had a separate remote control). Long shot which might not work for you but if it did it would be easy to leave AVR settings as-is with no need for disconnections etc. Usually the secondary zones are stereo only, but since that's all you're looking for it would fit the bill nicely.

Although considering it's for your wife... great excuse for funding a completely separate setup with everything you've secretly wanted in a dedicated 2CH setup?

That's a great idea. The AVR definitely has a second zone out. I just shuffled through the manual and, yeah, sure enough, there is a zone2 out. It will only play the same as the main zone when using "party mode" but well, what I'm doing is kind of a party. I guess this explains why the AVRs all have a second (and lower quality) DAC? It gets used for the alternative zone? Wow you learn something new every day. The primary DAC can't go more than +10dB but if you use a second zone, the secondary DAC can have a greater differential. Five years of college D'oh. I guess if the output of the DACs aren't in sync, just turn off the main zone.

Oh and I like the way you think but I'm already very happy with my existing setup due to having already 'invested' too much (Thankfully nobody's wife reads ASR... because if they do, they are suddenly an ex-wife). With a two input/one output switch, I can even use the PA speakers as front heights for movies. You might have made my Christmas!

 

[EdTice]

Not sure if your AVR has a secondary zone preout but many do - and it should have separate gain (on my older Denon it even had a separate remote control). Long shot which might not work for you but if it did it would be easy to leave AVR settings as-is with no need for disconnections etc. Usually the secondary zones are stereo only, but since that's all you're looking for it would fit the bill nicely.

Although considering it's for your wife... great excuse for funding a completely separate setup with everything you've secretly wanted in a dedicated 2CH setup?

Just as a follow-up for anybody who finds this thread in the future. I did none of the things mentioned here. My receiver is the Yamaha RX-V775 which, just like the other Yamaha receivers reviewed here, has a fairly weak pre-out. The best signal comes at about -10dbFS which is 0.4 volts and not ideal for driving a mixing board. My board is the Yamaha MG10x which is recently updated from a MG8 older than my mother-in-law. Of course our normal listening level is around -20dB to -30dB so not getting the best output at +10dB is actually a benefit for us (and probably many other pedestrian-level listeners which is why these AVRs are so popular with their weak pre-outs)

I had some lousy PA speakers before. I gave my wife the Kali LP6-v2 for Christmas. The mixing board is good enough that I can take the 0.4volt input and apply maximum gain. The Kali speakers are still absolutely silent.

The Kali's are applied to the *surround* channel and placed about where one would expect. Applying Dolby Surround to 2ch stereo lets me play the track through the mains with just enough music blended into the surrounds that the whole thing integrates more than well enough for recreational use.

 

[pseudoid]

This reply may appear to be Off-Topic but is NOT:
I was in the hunt for a 24V/120W LinearPowerSupply of quality (LPS @ dual outputs but not what is being called a "2-way" which indicates 2 separate output Rails) .
Wouldn't you know it? >> Again, I found a BRZHiFi hardware that appears to fit my requirements. Actually the only one that I found to be mainly for audio use. I will not post links to the LPS, as PinkPanthers think of this brand as inferior grade (I think it was called 'trash' by the bigCheese here).
ON-Topics bit that sheds some lights to the name-branding mystery:

The voltage is always dropping (around 0.4V to 0.9V) after turning on the devices (router or mini PC), and this doesn't happen to similar LPSU fron Breeze Audio/Weiliang. 06 Oct 2021 16:19

Seller’s ReplyDear, we are so sorry for the unpleasant shopping experience for you. Both Weiliang and Qingfeng are our brands, they are the same products, and the same quality, but the panel has an extra header. Regarding the voltage drop, the PC has a large current and will definitely drop the voltage. 06 Oct 2021 16:19

Please don't shoot the messenger... seems like the Hyundai+Kia or Toyota+Lexus marriages, or more specifically the mantra about "Country First, Brand Later" and maybe more like the Subaru+Toyota making the '86' 2door-sports model and maybe even more like the new Zupra (BMW+Toyota)

 

[digicidal]

Just as a follow-up for anybody who finds this thread in the future. I did none of the things mentioned here. My receiver is the Yamaha RX-V775 which, just like the other Yamaha receivers reviewed here, has a fairly weak pre-out. The best signal comes at about -10dbFS which is 0.4 volts and not ideal for driving a mixing board. My board is the Yamaha MG10x which is recently updated from a MG8 older than my mother-in-law. Of course our normal listening level is around -20dB to -30dB so not getting the best output at +10dB is actually a benefit for us (and probably many other pedestrian-level listeners which is why these AVRs are so popular with their weak pre-outs)

I had some lousy PA speakers before. I gave my wife the Kali LP6-v2 for Christmas. The mixing board is good enough that I can take the 0.4volt input and apply maximum gain. The Kali speakers are still absolutely silent.

The Kali's are applied to the *surround* channel and placed about where one would expect. Applying Dolby Surround to 2ch stereo lets me play the track through the mains with just enough music blended into the surrounds that the whole thing integrates more than well enough for recreational use.

Glad you found a solution that worked. Yeah, Yamaha seems to be about the same in that regard as Pioneer/Onkyo... part of the reason I switched to Denon/Marantz gear many years ago. They're OK to great (depending on SKU) as far as amplifier power, but the pre-outs and configuration options were severely lacking IMO.

I'm sure the Kali's will sound much better for both applications - they're certainly more accurate, and though I don't know which PA speakers you had... I think I can safely say they look better as well.

Please don't shoot the messenger... seems like the Hyundai+Kia or Toyota+Lexus marriages, or more specifically the mantra about "Country First, Brand Later" and maybe more like the Subaru+Toyota making the '86' 2door-sports model and maybe even more like the new Zupra (BMW+Toyota)

As a MKV "Zupra" owner myself - I'd be fine with that. The problem isn't what's stamped on the case or the country of origin... it's whether or not it performs. Plenty of name brand garbage out there, and plenty of off-brand gems. That doesn't mean you can count on either being the case consistently however, hence ASR.

 

[EdTice]

Glad you found a solution that worked. Yeah, Yamaha seems to be about the same in that regard as Pioneer/Onkyo... part of the reason I switched to Denon/Marantz gear many years ago. They're OK to great (depending on SKU) as far as amplifier power, but the pre-outs and configuration options were severely lacking IMO.

I'm sure the Kali's will sound much better for both applications - they're certainly more accurate, and though I don't know which PA speakers you had... I think I can safely say they look better as well.

I don't think I expressed that clearly so I'll try again for the benefit of whoever else finds this thread.

I switched my main system to Denon as well. I have the X3600H for the 100dB pre-out SINAD. But it wasn't as much of an improvement as I expected. And I imagine many people are in a similar situation (but maybe too shy to admit it on a public forum). I have never, not even once, hit 0dbFS on the dial. In fact, I don't think I've even gotten to -20 very often. I double-checked my numbers using the calculators from Crown. You can't find a speaker these days with less than 85dB sensitivity. Sitting three meters away (which when you account for the depth of furniture is about the average distance in a living room), playing at home-theater reference levels of 75dB, the amplifiers need to put out less than one watt most of the time. It's great that the Denon can put out a 100 SINAD at TWO VOLTS but since the consumer market is saturated with 28dB "THX" amplifiers, a 2V output would be something like 300 watts if you apply 28dB of gain to it. The only way that 2V SINAD is useful to those without large theater spaces is if you are going to run it through an integrated amp where you attenuate the input like crazy.

Unfortunately that's only useful if you aren't using any of the integrated amps. Otherwise, you set the dial to -10dbFS to get a relatively clean signal to your integrated amplifier and the secondary speakers being powered by the AVR shatter your windows. So now you need 11 channels of external integrated amps and have to manage the levels. Very few integrated amps have detentes (Behringer A800 being the exception) so you have to be super-careful not to bump the dials. The monoprice unity amps have the recessed controls that you can set and then cover with electrical tape. But again you need eleven channels of amplification.

If you look at the reviews of the Yamana receivers, Amir complains that they get their best performance at -10dbFS in a way that implies one wants the best performance at 0dbFS. I am sure there are some people who want this. In addition to the Denon in my living room, I have a Yamaha setup in an upstairs room and an even older model in my bedroom. All of the dials are set for around -30dbFS. SINAD at 5 watts? I'm not sure the amplifier can ever get to 5watts at that volume setting. Maybe I should be driving all of my speakers off of headphone amplifiers?

I imagine that many people come here with a similar problem and leave confused. So hopefully they will find this thread and realize they aren't alone.

The "high-quality" pre-outs all require a 0dBFS setting. That's great if I want to use the AVR in my living room to DJ a block party even with my windows closed.

Amplifier gains (the internal ones and speaker amps you buy) are so insanely high that a high quality pre stage is useless because you have to run it at like 0.1V

 

[markrhino]

BUYER BEWARE!!! DO NOT BUY FROM NOBSOUND!!! Seller is devious. Item originally sent to another Country! Seller resent item. Item arrived damaged and unusable. On off switch unable to be used (see picture). Amp cannot be turned on or off. Volume dial damaged so badly it is bent. Chassis is pushed in (see picture). Contacted seller who said it was an easy and cheap repair and that i should take it to my local electrical repair shop to fix. Seller refused refund and agreed for replacement only if i paid an additional $100 USD. I paid and seller. The seller then refused to send replacement until i cancelled my dispute. The seller is now refusing to refund my money or send a replacement. The seller is the official nobsound account on aliexpress which i believe is Douk audio. Happy to post our email exchange proving Nobsound were completely deceitful.

 

[TheGhostOfEugeneDebs]

I had a "Nobsound Mini Bluetooth 5.0 Power Amplifier" that I was using for my kitchen setup for enjoying tunes while cooking. It worked well, although was a little scary, as it would spark if the plug came out at all. It cost $33 on Amazon and lasted nearly a year and a half of virtually daily usage before it just stopped turning on. Honestly, for the price, these things are essentially disposable. Using an old Emotiva A100 in the kitchen now, which is a bit more than overkill, but it probably won't die on me any time soon.