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NEWS: monolith amp with Hypex amplification!

Jdunk54nl

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Cool. Wasn't sure if they used a different power supply or something.
The hypex mp series all have built-in power supplies. The only difference between all of these companies is the "other stuff" like wiring, case, warranty. The amp module (that includes the power supply) is all the same.
 

MakeMineVinyl

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Cool. Wasn't sure if they used a different power supply or something.
All the modules from Hypex are the same, and will measure the same, regardless of who utilizes them. Input buffers and control circuitry will be different, but that has nothing to do with power output. The Monolith uses good heatsinks for the modules which some don't, and that will effect sustained power capabilities of those who don't because of heat buildup. Hypex warns about this in their data sheets.
 

Descartes

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All the modules from Hypex are the same, and will measure the same, regardless of who utilizes them. Input buffers and control circuitry will be different, but that has nothing to do with power output. The Monolith uses good heatsinks for the modules which some don't, and that will effect sustained power capabilities of those who don't because of heat buildup. Hypex warns about this in their data sheets.
And 5 years of warranty’
 

Qbd

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https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/audible-noise-hiss-from-hypex-nc502mp-based-amp-kjf-ma-01-is-it-to-be-expected.26237/like I’ve experiencedlike I’ve experiencedAll the modules from Hypex are the same, and will measure the same, regardless of who utilizes them. Input buffers and control circuitry will be different, but that has nothing to do with power output. The Monolith uses good heatsinks for the modules which some don't, and that will effect sustained power capabilities of those who don't because of heat buildup. Hypex warns about this in their data sheets.
Reviews of the specific product are still nice though, e.g. to root out design issues like suboptimal cable routing like I’ve experienced with a hypex based amp.
 

MakeMineVinyl

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Reviews of the specific product are still nice though, e.g. to root out design issues like suboptimal cable routing like I’ve experienced with a hypex based amp.
I agree totally. There is still a lot of differentiation that is possible even if the core modules are the same.
 

amper42

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All such amplifiers have in common that they use the same modules, and the power capabilities will be the same on all.

It would be nice to see a review of the Monolith M8250x. Even though it includes NC502MP modules that have been measured it would be nice to know other specific features about the product. For instance:
1. What is the Kill-o-watt reading for energy usage in idle?
2. How warm does the case get after a 2 hour movie?
3. Is it totally quiet or not?
4. Will banana plugs seem too close together or is there plenty of room?
5. What does the microchip control? How does it function?
6. What do you get for the extra $700 with M8250x versus the Buckeye 8 channel NC502MP?

All these points would be of interest to me.
 

Matias

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Live now hopefully Amir or Erin will review it!
"8‑Channels with 200 watts/channel into 8 ohms and 400 watts/channel into 4 ohms in a small 3RU enclosure"

I hope this is a typo because it is very misleading!
 

MakeMineVinyl

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It would be nice to see a review of the Monolith M8250x. Even though it includes NC502MP modules that have been measured it would be nice to know other specific features about the product. For instance:
1. What is the Kill-o-watt reading for energy usage in idle?
2. How warm does the case get after a 2 hour movie?
3. Is it totally quiet or not?
4. Will banana plugs seem too close together or is there plenty of room?
5. What does the microchip control? How does it function?
6. What do you get for the extra $700 with M8250x versus the Buckeye 8 channel NC502MP?

All these points would be of interest to me.
1) I would expect there would be no difference from any other similar amplifier since they use the same PSU.
2) It uses very large heatsinks, so that would seem to indicate that heat would be very low, and much lower than amplifiers which do not use heatsinks.
3) As with power consumption, it should be like any other unit which uses these modules.
4) Looking at the pictures, the banana jacks look pretty close together so you might want to use dual banana plugs for connections.
5) It controls the startup sequence by staggering startup of the 4 modules to limit AC power line surges; it actively monitors the thermal sensing resistors built into each of the modules to detect any abnormally high temperatures (to my knowledge this is not done on any of the competing amplifiers); It monitors fault conditions coming from the modules and flashes the power button LED in a pattern which identifies the module on which any fault occurs; it handles the 12V trigger via opto-isolators which places a very light load on the trigger signal vs the heavier load on amplifiers which use relays for this function.
6) Much better, robust, and more professional build quality, large heatsinks to control temperatures, active monitoring of parameters in the modules via microcontroller, adherence to worldwide certifications such as FCC and European agencies, dual 20 amp AC power inlets so that power can be run from separate breakers if desired in order to realize the full power capabilities of the amplifier without power line sag, strong warranty support from a large company.
 
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pfgiv

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1) I would expect there would be no difference from any other similar amplifier since they use the same PSU.
2) It uses very large heatsinks, so that would seem to indicate that heat would be very low, and much lower than amplifiers which do not use heatsinks.
3) As with power consumption, it should be like any other unit which uses these modules.
4) Looking at the pictures, the banana plugs look pretty close together so you might want to use dual banana plugs for connections.
5) It controls the startup sequence by staggering startup of the 4 modules to limit AC power line surges; it actively monitors the thermal sensing resistors built into each of the modules to detect any abnormally high temperatures (to my knowledge this is not done on any of the competing amplifiers); It monitors fault conditions coming from the modules and flashes the power button LED in a pattern which identifies the module on which any fault occurs; it handles the 12V trigger via opto-isolators which places a very light load on the trigger signal vs the heavier load on amplifiers which use relays for this function.
6) Much better, robust, and more professional build quality, large heatsinks to control temperatures, active monitoring of parameters in the modules via microcontroller, adherence to worldwide certifications such as FCC and European agencies, dual 20 amp AC power inlets so that power can be run from separate breakers if desired in order to realize the full power capabilities of the amplifier without power line sag, strong warranty support from a large company.
I didn't even think about this but would this unit be an issue for some of us with only 15 amp outlets? I don't really have a way to easily run another line to the room.
 

MakeMineVinyl

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I didn't even think about this but would this unit be an issue for some of us with only 15 amp outlets? I don't really have a way to easily run another line to the room.
You don't have to use 20 amp outlets, nor do you have to plug the two power cables into separate outlets. This is only an option which can be used for those who want to be able to get all the power from all the channels which the amplifier is capable of.
 

pfgiv

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You don't have to use 20 amp outlets, nor do you have to plug the two power cables into separate outlets. This is only an option which can be used for those who want to be able to get all the power from all the channels which the amplifier is capable of.
yeah I guess if it peaked and went over 15 AMP draw it would just trip the breaker. Right now I have an SR7012 powering 4 surrounds and 4 atmos, 3 outlaw 2200 monoblocks for LCR, dual SVS PB16's, and I haven't tipped the breaker yet. Maybe it will be fine as is
 

MakeMineVinyl

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yeah I guess if it peaked and went over 15 AMP draw it would just trip the breaker. Right now I have an SR7012 powering 4 surrounds and 4 atmos, 3 outlaw 2200 monoblocks for LCR, dual SVS PB16's, and I haven't tipped the breaker yet. Maybe it will be fine as is
I would doubt that you would ever trip a 15 amp breaker (even with both power cords plugged into the same outlet) as most program material is not listened to at very high volumes. If you haven't tripped your breakers yet, there's no reason to believe you will with this amp. That being said, there are those who have large and demanding speakers in their home theater and they listen at full volume, so they would very much appreciate the ability to get all the power they paid for.
 

pfgiv

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I would doubt that you would ever trip a 15 amp breaker (even with both power cords plugged into the same outlet) as most program material is not listened to at very high volumes. If you haven't tripped your breakers yet, there's no reason to believe you will with this amp. That being said, there are those who have large and demanding speakers in their home theater and they listen at full volume, so they would very much appreciate the ability to get all the power they paid for.
Yeah that's def not me. Here's part of my signature on Audioholics.

"Home theater: LG OLED 77 C1, Marantz SR 7012, 3 Outlaw 2200 Monoblocks, (Focal Sopra Center en route) 7.2.4, SVS Ultra Tower, SVS Ultra Bookshelf, SVS Ultra Center, SVS Prime Bookshelf, SVS Prime Elevation, Dual SVS PB 16 Ultra"

Not super hard to drive speakers, and I rarely play them loud. Although, last week I cranked everything while watching Fury, and about 20 mins in my 7012 went into protection mode. I really want a different amp to cut back on power cords, and I would like all 7 channels running on the same amp. Not that my next speaker is overly hard to drive, but I'm in negotiations for pre owned Sopra 1's (which will lead to another set, and a set of Kanta's for the rear surrounds), and I want good clean power running through them
 

HammerSandwich

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They have 252's but the wattage is 100W for 8Ohms? Any ideas why?

VTV Nord and the like are 200W
The real reason for this is that ATI's always conservative. The Monolith's "100W" means 100W everywhere from 20-20kHz, with no more than 0.05% THD. Going to 1% will buy another - increasingly dirty - 1-2dB, with deep bass producing lowest power.

Best place to check actual output is the Hypex datasheet.
 

tjcinnamon

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The real reason for this is that ATI's always conservative. The Monolith's "100W" means 100W everywhere from 20-20kHz, with no more than 0.05% THD. Going to 1% will buy another - increasingly dirty - 1-2dB, with deep bass producing lowest power.

Best place to check actual output is the Hypex datasheet.
I’m surprised by this. Hypex data sheet lists the 1% THD @ 1KHz

 

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MakeMineVinyl

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tjcinnamon

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The more conservative power rating of the finished amplifier is for the full audio bandwidth; what the amplifier will actually do in the real world, and at well below 1% distortion.
100% agree! Figured that hypex would add that type of measurement to their data sheet.
 

bkdc

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They are available for sale. But I suspect they will feel warm. Each NC252MP module drains 15 watts at idle (power supply plus amplifier portion) so 60 watts are draining at idle.
 

MakeMineVinyl

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They are available for sale. But I suspect they will feel warm. Each NC252MP module drains 15 watts at idle (power supply plus amplifier portion) so 60 watts are draining at idle.
The heatsinks on the modules are slightly warm when the amp is powered up, but they have never gotten anywhere close to hot like a class A/B amplifier can.
 

bkdc

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Aside from the convenience factor of having a single brick handling 8 channels, I'm having a hard time justifying the 8-channel Monolith over 4 separate NC252MP stereo units even with the 5 year Monoprice warranty. Given the recent strength of the US dollar, ordering four units of the Audiophonics MPA-250NC is attractive and far more versatile (mix and match or move around to other parts of the house).... or choosing the Buckeye version with the additional auto on-off features. I'm running the Audiophonics unit right now. My speakers are dead silent. There is no pop on starting/powerup. My ears are happy hearing silent class D amps.
 
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