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New SMSL A300 BTL Class-d Power Amp

TonyJZX

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"For a small integrated amplifier, the AO200 has a lot of input options. Located at the rear of the device, the input options include the standard single-ended and balanced analog input, as well Bluetooth, and an option to directly plug in a computer via the USB A to USB A cable, or a USB flash drive. And finally, there is an IEC power inlet on the far right of the device.

The output on the other hand is straightforward. It just features 1 pair of 5-way bind posts for speaker termination and a pair of subwoofer outputs. The arrangement of the binding posts is in a tight square formation, and I honestly would have wanted to see a more spaced-out arrangement of the speaker terminals to make termination with bare wire or spade connectors a bit quicker.

Adding in a subwoofer to the mix is easy with the AO200, as the sub outs will just follow the volume level of the main speaker terminals. Unfortunately, there isn’t any control over the cutoff frequency of the subwoofer out, so an active subwoofer with control over its cutoff frequency will make integration much easier."


review excerpt


to me the 200 looks like an earlier less powerful version of the 300 with XLR and some niceties you may or may not like... but it has some of the same issues as the 300 with the poor BT and digital input.

The dual sub out sounds like a dual full range mono out going by that description... again read the manual to see if there's an actual ability to cut the main speakers off ar 80hz etc???
 

pbc

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Ended up just ordering both from Amazon and will see if I notice any difference.

The AO200 certainly looks nicer.
 

Pippo

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My story start's little different. Begins with rocket high electric power prices for household. I measured my audio power consuptions and it was about 25-30 euros for month. Start thinking about class D audio. At first read reviews of all-in-one Loxije A30 for my old ArtAudio H150 floor/table speakers. Than later found Elac DBR62 for a half of price in german's Mediamarkt and bought them. Ceiling on a Topping DX3pro+ PA3s combo, read reviews, later saw Aoshida C200 DAC and immediately bought it. Read a lot of reviews about АО200 and SMSL A300. Maybe AO200 best pairing with C200, but for ELAC's, as I read from user Roberto and meny others, I think, best option is A300.
My A300 is on the road to me from hifiexpress :)
I don't like idea of 2 monoblocks. Maybe later we see new AOX00 version with two M5532 chips on board. I'll ready to get one.
 

TonyJZX

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that's a funny coincidence

i 'replaced' a jungson 120w 20kg amp with the A300 and really, my power bill is about the same

i dont think small electronics like this makes a difference... i left both on 24/7 - i think leaving them on is better than on and off when needed - the consumer of power is refrigeration and water heating (for me) - for extreme climes factor in A/C and heating

its funny how advanced western countries are subject to power crises... the UK EU CAN AU etc.

we're all suffering from lack of energy grid planning.... i suppose it all counts, moving to all class d cant hurt
 

Tegyr

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I ended up simply removing the noisy display unit on mine today, easy enough as it's two split PCBs in the front that are connected by 4 large solder connections only.

The whine is gone and I think it sounds crisper overall but of course it's hard to say for sure without measurements :)

The remote stops working once it is removed as apparently the receiver is part of the display unit but for my use case with a fixed input and dialed in settings it's fine.
 

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Kix1991

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Hello! Have been using these A300s for awhile with my Triangle BR02s and recently just purchased an SVS SB-1000 Pro subwoofer. Was wondering what solutions you guys used to connect to your subs? I've heard the SW out > LFE for subs isn't optimal for music use and high level connections are preferred, but given there are only 1 set of speaker outputs on these amps how did you guys get over this? Besides the obvious solution of buying another sub but ideally not =). Does LFE really offer lower sound quality over high level connections with speaker outputs? Have you guys used a splitter OR tried connecting two sets of wires to the speaker outputs on the A300s?
 

Destination: Moon

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Hello! Have been using these A300s for awhile with my Triangle BR02s and recently just purchased an SVS SB-1000 Pro subwoofer. Was wondering what solutions you guys used to connect to your subs? I've heard the SW out > LFE for subs isn't optimal for music use and high level connections are preferred, but given there are only 1 set of speaker outputs on these amps how did you guys get over this? Besides the obvious solution of buying another sub but ideally not =). Does LFE really offer lower sound quality over high level connections with speaker outputs? Have you guys used a splitter OR tried connecting two sets of wires to the speaker outputs on the A300s?
I have the same sub. You'll need 2 pairs of RCA cables. Run the source into the sub and then use the RCA output on the sub to feed the amp. I thought it sounded best to wire it like this for the Polk R200s
 

asyverson

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I have previously explained below how to use two A300s with a BTL connection.


Toku - I just got 2 of the A300 int. amps. Would you be willing to post a picture of the setup? I'm a visual learner, I guess and that would be SUPER helpful...thanks for assisting.
 

ampguy

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I was thinking of getting a 2nd A300 to try the BTL setup, but my A300 firmware seems newer, the volume digits are all positive, while some others seem negative, so am concerned about getting 2 with mismatched firmware. Though at USD $170 or so, it's a great sounding amp (using in stereo mode) with external DAC
 

asyverson

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I was thinking of getting a 2nd A300 to try the BTL setup, but my A300 firmware seems newer, the volume digits are all positive, while some others seem negative, so am concerned about getting 2 with mismatched firmware. Though at USD $170 or so, it's a great sounding amp (using in stereo mode) with external DAC
I bought mine 2-3 weeks apart from each other...I haven't made an effort to 'chain' them together until I'm certain I have the correct installation, which, FOR ME, likely requires a visual from someone that has found the "proper" setup. Let me/everyone know if you get another A300 and/or if you can pin down a snapshot from someone. My volume display also only offers positive digits also. Hmmph.
 

Toku

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I bought mine 2-3 weeks apart from each other...I haven't made an effort to 'chain' them together until I'm certain I have the correct installation, which, FOR ME, likely requires a visual from someone that has found the "proper" setup. Let me/everyone know if you get another A300 and/or if you can pin down a snapshot from someone. My volume display also only offers positive digits also. Hmmph.
Talking about the A300's volume level display, the two A300s I bought, which are early products, have a MIN of 00 and a MAX of 60.
It does not become a negative display. I don't know of an A300 that displays volume in negative numbers.
 

san

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Talking about the A300's volume level display, the two A300s I bought, which are early products, have a MIN of 00 and a MAX of 60.
It does not become a negative display. I don't know of an A300 that displays volume in negative numbers.
Same, mine also shows from 00 to 60
 

asyverson

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Talking about the A300's volume level display, the two A300s I bought, which are early products, have a MIN of 00 and a MAX of 60.
It does not become a negative display. I don't know of an A300 that displays volume in negative numbers.
Yeah...I haven't heard of that yet either, until yesterday. I still hoping someone can provide a photograph of 2 A300s properly 'mono blocked'/chained together so I can proceed securely. Hoping...hoping......
 

Netherspark

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I ended up simply removing the noisy display unit on mine today, easy enough as it's two split PCBs in the front that are connected by 4 large solder connections only.

The whine is gone and I think it sounds crisper overall but of course it's hard to say for sure without measurements :)

The remote stops working once it is removed as apparently the receiver is part of the display unit but for my use case with a fixed input and dialed in settings it's fine.
I considered trying this with mine but in the end I'd still be left with the hiss (which SMSL are now claiming is just the 'normal' noise floor of a class D amp....). I've returned both of my A300s and am waiting on refunds.

I wonder if the LCD screen on the AO200 and DA-9 would have the same problem, but ultimately I'd rather get an amp without these unnecessary and bloated features.

Have you noticed a reduction in hiss/noise floor since removing the screen?
 

TonyJZX

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if only smsl has an option to male the screen go out and perhaps loose power after 10secs
 
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