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New product - SMSL AO300

Still using the SMSL AO300 daily on my desktop system. PC Z790 Realtek ALC4080 -> S/PDIF -> SMSL AO300 -> Wharfedale Diamond 12.1 -> SVS SB-1000 PRO
Here are some settings that sounds best and clear for me. I hope it helps other new users also.
  • Volume: 31
  • Filter: Fast + LLatency
  • EQ: Direct
  • Input: Optical (with EQ on PC soundcard)
  • Treble/bass Default: 0
SVS SB-1000 PRO settings:
  • Volume: -10dB
  • LPF: 70Hz slope 6dB
  • PEQ: Disabled
  • Room Gaain C. Freq.: Disabled

Here are some sound samples from my system: https://www.youtube.com/@tessie4204/videos
Why not through the USB?
 
Why not through the USB?
Because i dont hear any difference and because with SPDIF i can use my Equalizer. (still have USB connected also)
 
Does anyone have a similar problem? The amplifier is connected via an optical cable to the TV, if the TV is turned on and then I turn on the amplifier, I periodically get 2.2884 Hz on the screen and only turning the amplifier off and on again helps.

I get this as well, occasionally, and it is quite annoying. Turning the amp off and on helps, but this should not happen.
 
I get this as well, occasionally, and it is quite annoying. Turning the amp off and on helps, but this should not happen.
Does this happen also with the USB connection?
 
I get this as well, occasionally, and it is quite annoying. Turning the amp off and on helps, but this should not happen.
This is a problem that comes from the TV, and the AO300 can't do anything about it. Problems with TVs and SPDIF/Toslink connections have been discussed very often here in the forum and elsewhere.
Alternatively, you can try the HDMI/ARC connection.

The AO300 works for me on DDCs, CD players, Macs and MacBooks, various DAPs, streamers, etc., without any problems. Unfortunately, TV is a different topic and is definitely the fault of the TV manufacturer -> too cheap interfaces and non-compliance with standards.

Does this happen also with the USB connection?
This has nothing to do with USB.
 
This is a problem that comes from the TV, and the AO300 can't do anything about it. Problems with TVs and SPDIF/Toslink connections have been discussed very often here in the forum and elsewhere.
Alternatively, you can try the HDMI/ARC connection.

The AO300 works for me on DDCs, CD players, Macs and MacBooks, various DAPs, streamers, etc., without any problems. Unfortunately, TV is a different topic and is definitely the fault of the TV manufacturer -> too cheap interfaces and non-compliance with standards.


This has nothing to do with USB.
I have the same problem with SPDIF connected with a PC thats why i ask. I will try with USB connection and see if it is fixed.
 
I have the same problem with SPDIF connected with a PC thats why i ask. I will try with USB connection and see if it is fixed.
PCs can also have problems with SPDIF, but you can check whether there are any setting options.
But here too, the two interfaces have nothing to do with each other, unless your PC has some kind of problem that basically leads to interruptions in music playback.
 
Hey everyone, I've paired this amp with my Wharfedale Evo 4.2 speakers, and I’m using Tidal and USB playback. The sound is generally quite good—the treble and bass are clean and well-defined. I’ve also added a subwoofer for when I want a bit more oomph. Overall, I’m satisfied with the setup. However, I’ve noticed that the mids seem to lack depth and feel somewhat compressed. I’m thinking about upgrading and have been considering options like the Kef R3 Meta or the Arcam A15. I’d love to hear your thoughts on what might be the weakest link in my current setup and where I could see the most improvement. Anyone out there who has been able to compare this amp with more premium options? I've seen some people say that biwiring can help improve the sound quality, but the community seems pretty divided on this one.
 
No idea, I only use it attached via optical to my TV.
I am using the USB input (PC) for a few weeks and i dont have that "no sound 2.2884Hz" bug anymore. So SPDIF and HDMI inputs are giving that bug.
 
Hey everyone, I've paired this amp with my Wharfedale Evo 4.2 speakers, and I’m using Tidal and USB playback. The sound is generally quite good—the treble and bass are clean and well-defined. I’ve also added a subwoofer for when I want a bit more oomph. Overall, I’m satisfied with the setup. However, I’ve noticed that the mids seem to lack depth and feel somewhat compressed. I’m thinking about upgrading and have been considering options like the Kef R3 Meta or the Arcam A15. I’d love to hear your thoughts on what might be the weakest link in my current setup and where I could see the most improvement. Anyone out there who has been able to compare this amp with more premium options? I've seen some people say that biwiring can help improve the sound quality, but the community seems pretty divided on this one.
It is best to upgrade the amp if you are not happy with the sound. I tested it with some different speakers and the sound was overal the same.
If i am upgrading to a new amp i would be one of these. but my favorite is the still the Model M1 because it is so small.
  1. Marantz MODEL M1
  2. Cambridge Audio CXA81 MkII
  3. The ARCAM A15
  4. Rotel A12MKII
 
I wonder if the SUB OUT on this one actually allows for the subwoofer volume to be changed together with the speaker volume.

So far I haven't found one SMSL or other budget amp that does this properly.
Loxjie A30 does. I bought a AO300 to replace it but was disappointed that AO300’s SW out is outrageously low. back to my A30
 
Can someone explain the meaning and difference in the filters on this amplifier, I don’t quite understand why they are needed.
 
I actually wish to back track a little in my comments about the bass on the AO-300. I bought a second units about a year after they were first released and after sending my first purchase back. I am glad I did. I think I may have been a bit too quick to judge with the first unit. I also sent it back within the first week of purchase and looking back that was way too early. Since buying the second unit my opinion has changed especially where the bass is concerned. I have now had the second AO-300 for over a month, nearly two. The popping issue has been resolved by SMSL since my first purchase, it’s now silent in switching sources and on/off too. Bass, what can I say, how wrong I was! Now I have given the amp more time to settle in and my ears the time to focus on the amp I can wholeheartedly say that the AO-300 certainly does deliver enough good clean bass. Some owners have said with experience that this little amp takes around 10 days to break in and that something I just do not do with the first purchase. So to keep this short I stand corrected as well has very pleased with what the AO-300 delivers in regards to musicality, dynamics, sound staging and last but by no means least, bass!
 
Can someone explain the meaning and difference in the filters on this amplifier, I don’t quite understand why they are needed.
The differences are quite subtle and may take some time (training) to discern but they are there. I use the Nonoversampling as this to my ears is the most natural to the original recording. It was pretty much an instant decision, the others will slightly extend the treble or cut it off quicker and so on, just little things like that which does take time to listen for.
 
Can someone explain the meaning and difference in the filters on this amplifier, I don’t quite understand why they are needed.
For me Fast and LLF sounds the best.
  • Fast and Low-latency filter: This filter is designed for quick response times without significantly altering the phase of the audio signal. It's ideal for users who want minimal delay between the source and the speakers, which can be crucial for gaming or watching videos where timing is important.
  • Fast and Phase-compensated filter: Similar to the Fast and Low-latency filter, this one also aims for a quick response. However, it includes phase compensation to ensure that the sound from different frequencies arrives at your ears in sync, which can improve the clarity and focus of the audio.
  • Slow and Low-latency filter: This filter provides a slower roll-off compared to the fast filters. It's designed to produce a more natural sound with low latency, making it suitable for listening to music where audio fidelity is more important than the speed of the response.
  • Slow and Phase-compensated filter: This filter combines a slower roll-off with phase compensation. It's tailored for audiophiles who want a more natural and accurate sound reproduction, ensuring that the phase of the audio signal is preserved for a coherent soundstage.
  • Non-oversampling filter: This filter bypasses the oversampling process, which can sometimes introduce artifacts into the audio. By avoiding oversampling, this filter aims to provide a more 'pure' and unaltered sound, which some users prefer for its authenticity. .
 
For me Fast and LLF sounds the best.
  • Fast and Low-latency filter: This filter is designed for quick response times without significantly altering the phase of the audio signal. It's ideal for users who want minimal delay between the source and the speakers, which can be crucial for gaming or watching videos where timing is important.
  • Fast and Phase-compensated filter: Similar to the Fast and Low-latency filter, this one also aims for a quick response. However, it includes phase compensation to ensure that the sound from different frequencies arrives at your ears in sync, which can improve the clarity and focus of the audio.
  • Slow and Low-latency filter: This filter provides a slower roll-off compared to the fast filters. It's designed to produce a more natural sound with low latency, making it suitable for listening to music where audio fidelity is more important than the speed of the response.
  • Slow and Phase-compensated filter: This filter combines a slower roll-off with phase compensation. It's tailored for audiophiles who want a more natural and accurate sound reproduction, ensuring that the phase of the audio signal is preserved for a coherent soundstage.
  • Non-oversampling filter: This filter bypasses the oversampling process, which can sometimes introduce artifacts into the audio. By avoiding oversampling, this filter aims to provide a more 'pure' and unaltered sound, which some users prefer for its authenticity. .
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
 
I have just bought an AO200 Mk2 to pair with my DO400 as the dac/preamp, but I'm wondering if I should return it and get the AO300. Is the AO300 an upgrade? I believe the amp has the same specs? My reasoning is rather lame - I would like the similar design language of the AO300 and the DO400 (shame they are different sizes).
I don't actually need the dac or the headphone out of the AO300, it's literally just for the looks to better match the DO400.
Also the AO200 Mk2 has balanced inputs, which can take the balanced outputs of my DO400.

I understand from my reading this is not a truly balanced input but a "semi-balanced" input which may yield a tiny increase in clarity/hiss, but not much. Has anyone got any advice please? I am unlikely to need HDMI arc input, but may add a sub. So it's semi-balanced inputs vs better matching looks.

Thanks.
 
Hello! Please help me with the choice, I had the idea to buy myself an ao300, but we advised another option do100pro + aiyima a70. And actually the question arose - will the do100pro + aiyima a70 be better than the ao300, or will there be a small difference?
 
Hello! Please help me with the choice, I had the idea to buy myself an ao300, but we advised another option do100pro + aiyima a70. And actually the question arose - will the do100pro + aiyima a70 be better than the ao300, or will there be a small difference?

You are comparing a $400 and a $250 stack.
There are a million options in this price range. Many more than the two you listed. What are you looking for exactly?

I own the ao300 and use the do100 for headphones.
 
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