new KEF KC62 dual 6.5" subwoofer

[jasoncd]

Not really. There is no sub control via the app if you have the WII, there is only control over aspect of the signal that the WII sends.

Ah, that makes sense. I knew the app could do LPF/HPF, and I thought maybe some gain adjustment too, but I guess that still works it's just the speakers sending the signal out.

Have you tried lowering the LPF out of the Node to see if your problem really just is too much room gain at the upper end of the KC62’s range? Maybe you can leave the KC62 at “six clicks” but lower the LPF to somewhere in the 45-70hz range like KEF recommends for the LS50 (not much low end there either) and then you’ll find that the KC62 isn’t too loud where the KC62 is playing. Just an idea.

I gave this a shot just now. I had put up my laptop/mic/REW setup for the day, so just me listening by ear. Lowering the LPF did decrease the perceived base output, but when I found a track that had a lot of low bass, it was still over powering (or too quiet). My speakers are a pair of Vandersteen VLR, and while on paper they say +/- 3db at 64hz, by my admittedly very amateur measurements yesterday, they start to roll off fast below 100hz. Demoing new speakers will be in the future.

Room gain seems to be strongest around 40 - 55hz. 55hz is 10db over 20hz. I've used REW for all of 24 hours so I'm not putting much stock in what I'm measuring until I have some more practice.

I started with an SVS SB2000, and for various reasons decided it wasn't for me. Gain scale was -60db to 0db in the app. I used -20db for music, and -17 to -15db for movies.

Decided to try the KC62 next. I wasn't bothered by less overall SPL and I liked that it could push low notes at low/modest volumes. Right after I ordered, I had some second thoughts and saw a second hand DB4S at the same price as the KC62. So now I've got both of those in house for testing.

Sorry to clutter up this thread with a problem that doesn't seem to be impacting anyone else, but I appreciate the responses. I've got some RCA attenuators on the way now and will report back with how that goes.

Sounds weird. 4dB is a lot, how can you possibly get the right level with that implementation?

I agree with that!

 

[nothingman]

@jasoncd you mentioned this idea and I think it’s your solution: RCA y-splitter. It will definitely trick the “SmartConnect” extra gain from turning on. I bet that gets you where you need to be. Should it be necessary? Nope! Should KEF let you disable it with a switch on the back because it’s super annoying for various reasons including when doing L+R measurements? Yep!

 

[KMO]

Sounds weird. 4dB is a lot, how can you possibly get the right level with that implementation?

Is it made for systems with subwoofer level support only?

That was misquoted. The person there said 4dB per marked dot on the dial, and I believe there are 4 clicks between dots on the KC62, so that would mean 1dB per click (in the central region).

On my KF92, I actually measured 2.5dB per marked dot on the dial, and 5 clicks between dots, so 0.5dB per click - again in the central region

I'm sure it's true that there is supposed to be a deliberate faster ramp at the bottom end. Like the HPF goes in 4Hz steps at the top, and 2Hz through the rest of the scale.

But the problem here is the bottom 5 clicks are doing nothing on jasoncd's volume dial (same as the top 5 clicks on my LPF dial), and sometimes not being read reliably at the boundary (output can vary depending on whether you turned up or down to position). So that intended fast-ramp area is partly a no-ramp area.

 

[KMO]

@jasoncd you mentioned this idea and I think it’s your solution: RCA y-splitter. It will definitely trick the “SmartConnect” extra gain from turning on. I bet that gets you where you need to be. Should it be necessary? Nope! Should KEF let you disable it with a switch on the back because it’s super annoying for various reasons including when doing L+R measurements? Yep!

I don't think it will affect level. You'll be feeding double the signal, and it won't turn on its signal doubler. Final output level will be the same.

Only difference would be that you get that level immediately rather than after a couple of seconds when it decides it's 1-channel only.

Oh, and it may also help wake-up, if that was a problem. I've used the trick in the past. Not actually bothered for my KF92.

I guess it's causing you measurement grief with a 2-channel feed in and you're deliberately sending mono test signals? Yeah, okay, I can see that. With bass management and just 1 channel in, it's fine. Just a bit of extra "wake-up" delay, really. As long as you're doing 1 test sweep to wake it up, that's also enough to get the smartConnect engaged, I find.

 

[nothingman]

That was misquoted. The person there said 4dB per marked dot on the dial, and I believe there are 4 clicks between dots on the KC62, so that would mean 1dB per click (in the central region).

You’re right, my bad. I forgot there are multiple clicks per marked dot.

I don't think it will affect level. You'll be feeding double the signal, and it won't turn on its signal doubler. Final output level will be the same.

Same story. I just did some reading and my understanding of what a Y splitter does was off. I didn’t think it halved the signal, but I figure it would drop significantly enough to then get @jasoncd into the sweet spot of the sub gain. Appears to not be the case. I’m going to stop making suggestions!

I guess it's causing you measurement grief with a 2-channel feed in and you're deliberately sending mono test signals? Yeah, okay, I can see that. With bass management and just 1 channel in, it's fine. Just a bit of extra "wake-up" delay, really. As long as you're doing 1 test sweep to wake it up, that's also enough to get the smartConnect engaged, I find.

Yep. I use L+R out from my miniDSP SHD into the KC62. Figured I might as well use both sub inputs to prevent wake issues and skip the wait for the single channel boost to kick in. But, that means SmartConnect turns on when single channel Dirac and REW sweeps happen. It’s annoying but something that can be worked around.

 

[jasoncd]

I don't think it will affect level. You'll be feeding double the signal, and it won't turn on its signal doubler. Final output level will be the same.

This is correct at least with my testing. Tried a Y cable from the sub out to populate both RCA inputs on the KC62.

I did a few measurements with REW. LPF/HPF set at 110hz through Bluesound app.

Green is 5 clicks up, the sub is barely on. Blue is six clicks up, which was weirdly not too loud but with a dip from 40hz to 80hz I don't understand. Purple is seven clicks up and here we get loud.

Going back down didn't produce the same results. Going down to six clicks from the seven click measurement didn't change the output at all, the trace was on top of the seven click measurement.

I'm also a little surprised with the drop off from 20hz, just going by what I saw Joe n Tell measure in his video. Would have thought it could have flattened out around 70db or so. But then again there are some obvious issues with how I've got things setup now.

 

[nothingman]

That doesn’t look right, but it’s hard to tell

Just for reference, here’s my in-room. This is post-Dirac with both channels playing. 1/12 smoothing and then psychoacoustic just to show the trend line better.

The KC62 is doing it’s thing down to 17hz, and I think below that there is partly a problem with a room null around 12hz.

The null at 33hz is a bummer, as is whatever combo of nulls and SBIR that is happening from 100hz up. Pretty choppy.

Still sounds pretty darn good! My biggest sound quality pet peeve is muddiness in the upper bass/lower mids (think Beats headphones and such) so having that area just a bit hollowed out but generally following the right trend is ok with me. I’m in a finished basement with a 7 foot ceiling and brick behind the sheetrock and not an ounce of room treatment, so I’m doing ok all things considered. Would love to grab a second KC62 and find the right spot for it that would plug the hole at 33hz and maybe help mitigate the huge drop around 100hz (though I probably cross them too low to really do much).

 

[nothingman]

Sorry, and to add, lest you think I have a magical KC62, if I pushed it to 92db at 40hz like you I would definitely get that same shaped hump you have. The 20hz SPL doesn’t move all that much with increased volume, but 30ish and up does. Still, the way yours is behaving and measuring doesn’t look right. I have a LPF implemented just like you, using stereo inputs, and I’m somewhere between 1 and 2 o clock on the sub gain.

 

[jasoncd]

Just for reference, here’s my in-room.

I think those look great! I'd really like to give Dirac a try. Maybe a MiniDSP SHD Power will replace the Bluesound...

Right after I posted the measurements, I thought why did I do them full range with the speakers? So did two more just because.

First, from the listening position. LPF at 110hz again. No speakers.

Then with the mic close to the sub, maybe it takes the room out of it a tiny bit...

So after 7 or 8 clicks up on the gain knob, it does look like we're getting into one click per db territory.

 

[nothingman]

Whoa. 5 clicks to 6 clicks is 12db at 40hz! Yeah, that ain’t gonna work. At least you’re not crazy? The real question is why your gain knob is slammed to the bottom to begin with. Afraid to say, I think you need a dealer swap or factory service.

 

[KMO]

Green is 5 clicks up, the sub is barely on. Blue is six clicks up, which was weirdly not too loud but with a dip from 40hz to 80hz I don't understand. Purple is seven clicks up and here we get loud.


I'm also a little surprised with the drop off from 20hz, just going by what I saw Joe n Tell measure in his video. Would have thought it could have flattened out around 70db or so. But then again there are some obvious issues with how I've got things setup now.

Ah, I like measurements. Here's my KF92 for comparison. I think it's worthwhile comparing it, even though it's a different model, because it's a very similar platform with the same control interface, and with basically the same official specs apart from "5dB louder".

(Note - for easier comparison with other people, use the "capture" button on REW, and set ratio to the conventional 25db/decade).

I agree, that I would have expected extension down to the claimed 11Hz, and others have measured that on the KC62. What mic you using? Got a calibration file for it loaded? They can bend at low frequencies.

Taking the measurements as broadly accurate otherwise, you've clearly got significant room gain. You may want to try moving the EQ switch on the sub to a less-bass position - it seems to be a sub-70Hz shelf, which would suit you. Here's what mine does - looks like 3dB steps:

(Cabinet is one more notch down on the same adjustment scale, but Apartment is a significant low-frequency cut. Mine is against a wall, and I indeed use the Wall setting).

And as nothingman says, the response curve definitely shifts with level - relative bass decreases. That's why your purple and blue lines are different shapes. That purple was quite loud for a single 6.5" sub. Some attempted graphs from my KF92, but I wouldn't totally trust the loudest of these - I didn't adjust the mic gain to do this properly. Labels are dBFS on the LFE channel, so 0 would have been an attempted 115dB. This is with Audyssey on, which would attempted to make the 80-90dB response flat.

I would expect the KC62 response curves to be broadly similar, but 5dB down.

I also suspect you may not be well integrated with the mains. I guess you've got no delay settings in the Powernode, so can't fine-tune it, but at least try flipping the polarity switch on the sub see if that crossover region comes out better.

Whoa. 5 clicks to 6 clicks is 12db at 40hz! Yeah, that ain’t gonna work. At least you’re not crazy? The real question is why your gain knob is slammed to the bottom to begin with. Afraid to say, I think you need a dealer swap or factory service.

Don't think the swap/service is necessarily going to help - I have a suspicion the "non-functioning knob extremes" is a universal feature. The RCA attenuator should get him out of the hole by getting to the middle of the knob.

(Random thought - this is a volume-variable "pre-out" type sub output, right? It's not in a "line out" mode, hence at full volume?)

 

[jasoncd]

(Note - for easier comparison with other people, use the "capture" button on REW, and set ratio to the conventional 25db/decade).

Awesome, appreciate the tip and I will do that with my next testing. Reading threads here, I always loved seeing the graphs as well and it has been cool to finally get REW setup and be able to post some.

I agree, that I would have expected extension down to the claimed 11Hz, and others have measured that on the KC62. What mic you using? Got a calibration file for it loaded? They can bend at low frequencies.

I'm using a Dayton Audio UMM-6 and am using the calibration file for my specific mic. From what I had read, this may not be as good as the UMIK-1 but most complaints seemed to be more around the top end. For the up close measurements I did, I put the mic about a foot away from the sub, pointed at one of the woofers. All other measurements I had the microphone at my listening position, about 12 or 13 feet away from the sub.

The shape of my graphs seems weird to me. This is just wild speculation, but it feels like the shape of the graph would be like at max SPL where it's cutting out frequencies to push higher volume. But I don't know, I'm new to all of this.

Taking the measurements as broadly accurate otherwise, you've clearly got significant room gain. You may want to try moving the EQ switch on the sub to a less-bass position - it seems to be a sub-70Hz shelf, which would suit you. Here's what mine does - looks like 3dB steps:

Intesting. I need to do measurements again. I tried all the EQ settings, but found they only impacted (iirc) 25hz and down or so. So even though the sub is against a wall, I left it on room mode because I was only losing more low end otherwise. Did not look like your graphs which seem to start cutting around 60hz or so.

And I may have something REW setup wrong causing my SPL levels to be off. REW is still pretty confusing to me, I'm watching videos and reading to figure out what else I can do to make things more accurate. After my first measurement I did grab some earplugs though!

I also suspect you may not be well integrated with the mains. I guess you've got no delay settings in the Powernode, so can't fine-tune it, but at least try flipping the polarity switch on the sub see if that crossover region comes out better.

Integrating with the mains has been tough and it's not ideal now. No delay controls in BluOS, but great idea on polarity. I tried doing that by ear when I first got the sub, but now I can use REW.

And if I'm understanding right, yes it should be a volume variable output - ie if I turn the volume down in the BluOS app and run a sweep, the subwoofer and the mains all get quieter.

Attenuators arrive tomorrow, so I'll see how that goes! My only fear is that if the KEF for some reason still thinks it's being asked to play super loud, even if it isn't loud, it will start altering frequencies to protect itself.

 

[KMO]

Awesome, appreciate the tip and I will do that with my next testing. Reading threads here, I always loved seeing the graphs as well and it has been cool to finally get REW setup and be able to post some.



I'm using a Dayton Audio UMM-6 and am using the calibration file for my specific mic. From what I had read, this may not be as good as the UMIK-1 but most complaints seemed to be more around the top end. For the up close measurements I did, I put the mic about a foot away from the sub, pointed at one of the woofers. All other measurements I had the microphone at my listening position, about 12 or 13 feet away from the sub.

No experience with that mic myself, but maybe others can comment. The spec says it's calibrated down to 18Hz - it might be worth looking at the calibration curve in REW - can show it in the SPL & Phase graph. Here's what my UMIK-1 file looks like:

As you can see, beyond the limits of the calibration file (10Hz-24kHz for me), REW just assumes flat. But it's safer to assume that the mic response will continue whatever curve its on. So if yours is sloping down to a final value at 18Hz, with no more calibration below that you will see measurements drop off below 18Hz as REW stops raising the gain.

If you do want to try looking down below 18Hz, despite being uncalibrated, you could try adding some fake values to your calibration file to extend the final curve. That will give something closer to reality in that region than what REW does. Looking at your graph again, I think I can indeed see it take a dive at 18Hz, so that's probably the final corner in the calibration curve.

Many, many calibration/EQ things, including my (old) Audyssey, don't actually extend below 20Hz anyway...

The shape of my graphs seems weird to me. This is just wild speculation, but it feels like the shape of the graph would be like at max SPL where it's cutting out frequencies to push higher volume. But I don't know, I'm new to all of this.

Sorry, don't quite understand that sentence. Edit: Aha, got it. You think it looks like a curve where the KEF has deliberately cut the low frequencies cos its' loud. Well, yes, it partly is, cos it IS loud. I think that partly explains the 40Hz-20Hz drop, which you can see is bigger on the loud graphs. But I reckon the drop from 20Hz is your mic+calibration.

Intesting. I need to do measurements again. I tried all the EQ settings, but found they only impacted (iirc) 25hz and down or so. So even though the sub is against a wall, I left it on room mode because I was only losing more low end otherwise. Did not look like your graphs which seem to start cutting around 60hz or so.

Check it again. Apartment would be a big 25Hz cut, but others should be covering more range. You shouldn't be worrying about trying to get your 25Hz up - it's not the important frequency. You should be worrying about getting 40Hz balanced with 80Hz, and that's what the EQ control should help with.

And I may have something REW setup wrong causing my SPL levels to be off. REW is still pretty confusing to me, I'm watching videos and reading to figure out what else I can do to make things more accurate. After my first measurement I did grab some earplugs though!

You are running sweeps bonkers loud. None of my graphs touch 90dB, except the one where I was deliberately doing loudness tests. You can turn it down. I know it's partly the sub being too loud, but the main speaker level could be tested fine at 75dB from main listening position. That's a conventional domestic test level - it would be a -30dBFS signal fed into a 0dB volume control, or -20dBFS into -10dB volume if you're trying to calibrate for cinema levels (as I do).

Attenuators arrive tomorrow, so I'll see how that goes! My only fear is that if the KEF for some reason still thinks it's being asked to play super loud, even if it isn't loud, it will start altering frequencies to protect itself.

No, the input level doesn't matter for its frequency bending. It does whatever it does after its gain control - it's looking at the real output level, cos it's thinking about its actual physical constraints. Only the wake-up seems to be pre-gain control. The attenuator will make it more reluctant to wake up. The Y-splitter could counteract that.

Oh, and I'd imagine the frequency bending would also be post-EQ, but I haven't checked. So if you do "cut" the low frequencies with wall EQ, you probably won't actually lose absolute level capability at low frequency, because you'll get less cut from the frequency bending. It will just be balancing the curve.

 

[jasoncd]

Super helpful stuff KMO! Makes complete sense about the mic calibration. I checked the calibration file, and was surprised to see that it goes to 6hz. Not to say that it's accurate to 6hz, but it's in the file.

You think it looks like a curve where the KEF has deliberately cut the low frequencies cos its' loud. Well, yes, it partly is, cos it IS loud. I think that partly explains the 40Hz-20Hz drop, which you can see is bigger on the loud graphs. But I reckon the drop from 20Hz is your mic+calibration.

Yep, but I tried today to calibrate the SPL to 76db using pink noise to get the volumes more reasonable. Not sure if you'd call my attempt successful or not but it should be better.

Ended up doing 18db attenuation. One 12db plus one 6db for the worlds longest RCA connector. That put me 15 clicks up on the gain knob.

EQ Modes seem to be working better now, before they were mostly taking away starting at a lower frequency. Seems pretty close to the starting point KMO has. No idea why 65 - 105ish hz is down like that. This is with BluOS doing LPF/HPF at 110hz.

As a comparison point, DB4S vs KC62 Room EQ from above. Subs in the same spot in the room. DB4S in purple. Still has drops in the same area as the KC62 but a little less so. Probably room is driving most of that.

Below is an earlier test, before I turned the volume down a bit. I looked at the KC62 set with a manual LPF from 80 to 110hz. It must be the room causing the drop at 65hz. Ignore the later values because to do a manual LPF I have to set the Bluesound to HPF at 200hz.

One more DB4S vs KC62 since I just realized the above charts only go to 10hz. Not that it's accurate below that but why not. DB4S in blue, both LPF through BluOS at 110hz.

This has been fun testing, I don't think I can form any real conclusions and hope I haven't bored everyone here. My thoughts are:

• The volume/gain/whatever was too loud to the KC62 and an attenuator let me have more fine control over the volume of the sub.
• The KC62 should be extending lower and not dropping off so sharply but that could be my mic or something with my measurements or the KC62 just doesn't like the Powernode.
• Something going on in my room from 65hz - 100hz.
• My mains drop quickly below 100hz and that isn't helping anything.

Some of my thoughts here probably coming from looking at Joe n Tell's graph from his Youtube review SVS 3000 Micro vs KC62. 3000 Micro in purple, green is KC62. The shape and behavior here vs what I'm seeing...but probably again, the room. And believe these charts are "corrected" so maybe that means Dirac or something.

 

[KMO]

Couple of quick notes:

Having chosen a lower-bass EQ mode, you can turn the sub gain back up, so you're not cutting the low-end, but boosting the middle bit.

And have you tried a phase reverse yet? Your first graph a couple of posts ago has pretty good evidence of phase reversal being needed because as you turned the sub up, the combined response at 110Hz dropped, meaning the sub was cancelling with the speakers. Green > blue > purple. Try that before further attempts to sort out the crossover region.

 

[jasoncd]

tried a phase reverse yet? Your first graph a couple of posts ago ha

Yes I did, and ended up keeping it at 180. I think I was testing too many variables and didn't interpret much there, because when I did some runs with the LPF around 80hz, the 0 phase seemed to do better. I ran it again just now, LPF/HPF at 110hz through Bluesound. Figure this is close to what I'll end up with, so go with that LPF setting. Green is 180 and Red is zero. 180 looks better after 100hz.

 

[QuadDiffusor]

Hi Fellas, I own a pair of KEF Wireless IIs, using the primary speaker's single sub-out RCA to a KW1 adapter to connect wirelessly to the KC62. They sound fantastic! I general question, which I can't seem to find answers to... I've researched user manuals and forums alike, but no luck!

When using the iOS app "KEF Connect" to play streaming files such as TIDAL, do the settings on the app *override* the manual knobs and switches on the KC62? In other words, does the KC62 default to the settings on the KEF Connect app?

When playing digital files from an external source (without the KEF Connect app) using the Toslink optical in, or S/PDIF co-axial cable, does the system *override* the settings on the KEF Connect app, and instead default to the manual knobs and switches on the KC62?

Thanks in advance for your guidance!

 

[KMO]

Hi Fellas, I own a pair of KEF Wireless IIs, using the primary speaker's single sub-out RCA to a KW1 adapter to connect wirelessly to the KC62. They sound fantastic! I general question, which I can't seem to find answers to... I've researched user manuals and forums alike, but no luck!

When using the iOS app "KEF Connect" to play streaming files such as TIDAL, do the settings on the app *override* the manual knobs and switches on the KC62? In other words, does the KC62 default to the settings on the KEF Connect app?

When playing digital files from an external source (without the KEF Connect app) using the Toslink optical in, or S/PDIF co-axial cable, does the system *override* the settings on the KEF Connect app, and instead default to the manual knobs and switches on the KC62?

Thanks in advance for your guidance!

I'm pretty certain there are no "overrides". The sub isn't that smart to talk to the app, even via the adapter. You're controlling the Wireless IIs, not the sub. All settings will just combine. For example, you can flip polarity either in the app, or on the sub, and doing both would cancel out. Both gain controls will work. Both filters will work.

So you should probably leave everything set to "neutral" on the sub and control in software - polarity 0, gain to 12 o'clock, filter disabled by "LFE". If you have a wake-up problem (many do), turn down the gain on the sub and turn up the gain in the software.

Edit: Actually, just remembered KEF have their own subwoofer setup guide, which probably shouldn't be taken as gospel, but may give some clues as to their thinking:

LS50 Wireless II Subwoofer Setup Guide

The settings made in the KEF Connect app should be stored in the speakers and operate from any source.

 

[KMO]

when I did some runs with the LPF around 80hz, the 0 phase seemed to do better.

Yep, the integration problem is a group delay issue, and the group delay is frequency-dependent. So no simple uniform adjustment - either a polarity switch or a global delay - is going to get all frequencies aligned. Getting 110Hz aligned may get 80Hz unaligned and vice-versa.

This is one of the things that REW lets you play with - if you capture the sub and main speakers separately you can use its alignment tool to on-the-fly figure out what happens at the integration point as you adjust level/delay/phase - it will accurately compute and plot the combined response. And it can compute "what delay gives the best response over this octave?". Very useful if you've got the possibility to adjust delay as well as polarity - saves a lot of real-life measurements.

• Something going on in my room from 65hz - 100hz.
• My mains drop quickly below 100hz and that isn't helping anything.

Yeah, your mains are dropping off hard, which means your sub has to cover a wide frequency band. And it can be hard to get the entire band good.

If the 65-100Hz area is the room, which is likely, it will be very position dependent. You will get a totally different result in a different position.

I didn't spend long repositioning my sub, as I don't want to leave it somewhere weird just for acoustic reasons. But there was a basic choice between to the left and right of the TV/AV.

Moving it to the right got rid of the deep 55Hz dip, and replaced it with a smaller 110Hz dip, above my 80Hz crossover frequency, and that helped a lot. (The right speaker does suffer from a similar dip, but at least the left+centre produce good 110Hz, so overall mono bass is reasonably flat).

If you've got to get all the way to 120Hz from one sub, you might have even more difficulty finding a perfect position, but have a go. The trick apparently (which I haven't used) is to put the sub in your listening position, and move the mic around potential sub positions and look at the response (watch the display from a continuous bandwidth-limited pink noise signal).

 

[QuadDiffusor]

Folks, I have the following setup, and even after consulting various online instructions and forums on the subject, I'm still confused with the optimal settings - especially regarding if/how the KEF iOS App's settings "interact" with the physical dials/switches on the KC-62 subwoofer. Do they blend together? Or does one overtake the other, depending on the circumstances?

System configuration:
- KEF Wireless II loudspeakers (Primary and Secondary connected via Cat6 LAN cable)
- KEF KW-1 wireless woofer adapter (single RCA connection from Primary to wireless receiver)
- KEF KC-62 subwoofer, with the KW-1 wireless receiver

Evidently, the iOS KEF Connect app "controls" the entire setup, including the subwoofer EQ and equalization. KEF's recommended baseline settings are a good default starting point, with some trial/error tweaking, to arrive at:
High-pass frequency: 70Hz
Sub out low-pass frequency: 45Hz
Sub gain: +4.0dB

My KC-62's dials/switches are currently set at:
EQ: Room
Mode: LFE
Crossover dial: 65Hz
Volume: 7 (out of 10 "dots")

I have two distinctly different playback sources:
- Scenario 1: iOS KEF Connect app, streaming source: TIDAL
- Scenario 2: external music server/streamer (Aurender N30) connected via TOSLINK optical S/PDIF to Primary loudspeaker; source is mostly TIDAL streaming

For Scenario 1:
Q1> Do the iOS KEF App's settings "overrule" the dials and switches on the KC-62's rear panel ?
Q2> Or, do the KC-62's dials/switches "blend" and shape the signals sent by the iOS KEF App, as in equalizing *TWICE* ?

What about for Scenario 2?
Q3> Since the KEF Connect app is not turned on, does the system "ignore" the settings in the KEF iOS App, and be influenced ONLY by the KC-62's rear panel settings?

Help! And many thanks in advance!