- Thread Starter
- #21
Thanks Doodski. Ordered a can from Amazon right now .
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- Thread starter StaresyJ
- Start date
Meant to type Deoxit website has directions on how to clean electronic/audio gear.
Don’t have it plugged in when you do that!!!
- Thread Starter
- #24
Haha! I’m new back to the real hifi game but I think I would be cautious about that! I would like to have look inside and see if dust has penetrated the grills. It looks okay but I would still like a peek I think.
Send a pic(s) of the internals so we can determine what model and topography it is.
- Thread Starter
- #26
Okay, will take the lid off tomorrow and send a picture. Thanks for the input, really very kind.
- Thread Starter
- #27
Okay too excited to wait! Lid off! What do you see? She looks pretty clean to me
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- Thread Starter
- #28
From the top looks like labelled 1997
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- Thread Starter
- #29
Looks like it has the pre fitted phono stage?
- Thread Starter
- #30
Oh maybe not, does that fit on the stalks?
There are so many versions of A1 although it would seem it might have the TDA15XX series car audio amplifier IC in it. They range from 12W/ch to 50W/ch depending on the version and topography.
Yes, the phono stage is a option that was not installed.
I think so, it's not installed. However the girl looks very neat inside - how did you store it all these years?
- Thread Starter
- #33
I don’t like the sound of a car audio!
- Thread Starter
- #34
In a cardboard box with a lid on! She is very clean. God I hope she fires !
I used to specialize in high end car audio service in the 80's and 90's. Some of those car audio ICs sound pretty good. If you want to pop the cover off the heatsink-IC we can find out more but that requires a screwdriver and a steady hand. Don't bother if you are not mechanically handy. I'm going to hazard a guess and say with a single IC layout and the smallish size that this is a 25W/ch amp non-version Mark III.
- Thread Starter
- #36
If I knew where to unscrew I would try that! 25 watts will do me, should drive my SX50’s I reckon? I’m not one for blasting out sound
I circled the screws (Or maybe they are plastic push-pins?) in red. If you do take off the metal holding retention bracket make sure you put all the parts on the back exactly as they came off. The part number of the IC will be under that metal retention bracket. It would be usual if it uses a #2 philips screw. The part number will be printed or laser burned on the face of the amp IC under the retention bracket. Upon a closer look you will need a very short stubby screwdriver to get it off unless it is plastic push pins. So you might have to stop the operation.
This pic shows better the screws and the metal retention bracket.
- Thread Starter
- #38
You know what. I’m going to leave it be as I’m not confident to take this out. You have been extremely welcoming and helpful. I’m going to get my speakers, give her a clean, fire it up and see what I get. If it’s rubbish, I can start again with a different amp.I circled the screws (Or maybe they are plastic push-pins?) in red. If you do take off the metal holding retention bracket make sure you put all the parts on the back exactly as they came off. The part number of the IC will be under that metal retention bracket. It would be usual if it uses a #2 philips screw. The part number will be printed or laser burned on the face of the amp IC under the retention bracket. Upon a closer look you will need a very short stubby screwdriver to get it off unless it is plastic push pins. So you might have to stop the operation.
View attachment 251607
This pic shows better the screws and the metal retention bracket.
Yeah, sounds like a wise choice. Keep in mind it's not a power house amp and run it easy and it'll be fine. Your speakers are 8 Ohm and so everything should play well together.
Elitzur–Vaidman
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Regarding your CD player question. I think you'll be good with anything that has a toslink or spdif output. Just rout it through your E30 and use its dac.
