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NEW BRZHifi PAD-30 : Dual TPA3255 +PFFB @ $99

Fun thing is, the unit turned out to be working - but only trigger can turn it on. Power switch/knob can't.

So I can assume quality control for this box is NIL. As "can't be turned on" would for sure be recognized in the first seconds?

The FiiO is an interesting mention. Taking a look at that one.

It's a bit more expensive, but 3e is selling the A7 without psu for sporty prices on amazon.
 
Yes, and also without the output levels being balanced at low volume (as mentioned in their product description) :facepalm:
 
You are the one who drew a conclusion and stated it: "...It's for a garage, for $99."
I sincerely have no idea what you were inferring from my words, nor why you think I am trying to deceive anyone.

But then , it matters not, feel free to ignore if you prefer?
 
For once, I entirely agree with you, although it is regrettable that others might read them...
 
Yes, the 10A ones seem to be "worth" $75+ especially if branded.

I've seen the 5A ones only add $10-15 compared to "no PSU".

For the A7 Mono specifically, I'd maybe spring for adjustability, have 51V at 10A available for dance party mode, leave at 40V 5A normally for longevity. depending on how thirsty the speakers ofc
 
There are some options below 50 € with 36v and 42v.



Although I recognize the second one as the plastic box used by many cheap psu. Handle with care.
 
i assume once its on the vol. ctrl. works???

am i right in assuming the vol ctrl being the master power switch is on a cam that once pulled off the cam initiates power and vol. ctrl.

but if its OFF then you cant do the 12v trigger?

its a fail of a component on the board?
 
i assume once its on the vol. ctrl. works???

am i right in assuming the vol ctrl being the master power switch is on a cam that once pulled off the cam initiates power and vol. ctrl.

but if its OFF then you cant do the 12v trigger?

its a fail of a component on the board?
Probably the trigger jack failed and disturbed operation.

The knob worked OK.
 
There are some options below 50 € with 36v and 42v.



Although I recognize the second one as the plastic box used by many cheap psu. Handle with care.
It's really hard to judge quality just by looking at the exterior, and e-commerce platforms don't seem to do any quality control. Looking up identical-looking items on Taobao, you'll see massive price differences. Even the power supplies bundled with some amplifiers aren't necessarily reliable.
 
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It's really hard to judge quality just by looking at the exterior, and e-commerce platforms don't seem to do any quality control. Looking up identical-looking items on Taobao, you'll see massive price differences. Even the power supplies bundled with some amplifiers aren't necessarily reliable.
I no longer try to get the cheapest of anything: because they always do exactly what I expect for the money: they either don't work right to begin wit or thatdie the day after the 90 day warranty (and sometimes take out something else in the process. Life is short enough without shortening it by continuously being stressed, running around wasting my life and money trying to get repairs done on gear that it took out when the cheap piece of junk went belly up.
zit's not worth the time and hassle to me, when I could actually save the aggravation by spending 10-12 more on a quality product instead.
 
It's really hard to judge quality just by looking at the exterior, and e-commerce platforms don't seem to do any quality control. Looking up identical-looking items on Taobao, you'll see massive price differences. Even the power supplies bundled with some amplifiers aren't necessarily reliable.
The problem I have with this plastic case is that on cheap versions the power jack often has only a vague halt. It's moving when you use it and when you push it a little more you can really losen it. Seen it a couple of times already.

That mustn't be a problem of the case altogether, it can also be the psu and how it is fit inside there. It's the cheap ones + this case combo from what I have seen.

IMO it's best to shop for a known good psu and not get the cheapest from Ali.
 
I no longer try to get the cheapest of anything: because they always do exactly what I expect for the money: they either don't work right to begin wit or thatdie the day after the 90 day warranty (and sometimes take out something else in the process. Life is short enough without shortening it by continuously being stressed, running around wasting my life and money trying to get repairs done on gear that it took out when the cheap piece of junk went belly up.
zit's not worth the time and hassle to me, when I could actually save the aggravation by spending 10-12 more on a quality product instead.
I totally agree with you on this!

Over the past few years, I bought quite a few NE5532s just for fun. The variety on Taobao is mind-blowing—even trusted sellers jokingly refer to them as domestic 5532s; (meaning fake/rebranded chips).

But even if you're willing to spend extra, you still have to be extremely careful. Take Mean Well power supply as an example, since I'm quite familiar with them: I now only buy from authorized dealers recommended by their official distributors. The market is just flooded with counterfeits.
 
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The problem I have with this plastic case is that on cheap versions the power jack often has only a vague halt. It's moving when you use it and when you push it a little more you can really losen it. Seen it a couple of times already.

That mustn't be a problem of the case altogether, it can also be the psu and how it is fit inside there. It's the cheap ones + this case combo from what I have seen.

IMO it's best to shop for a known good psu and not get the cheapest from Ali.
You mean the DC plug? Is it 5.5/2.5 vs 5.5/2.1? Chinese gear loves using those universal jacks, so they always end up either super tight or loose as hell.
 
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You mean the DC plug? Is it 5.5/2.5 vs 5.5/2.1? Chinese gear loves using those universal jacks, so they always end up either super tight or loose as hell.
No, the 220v jack on the brick.

The DC cable and plugs are a topic for themselves. I can only guess they use parts rated for the power of that psu. A good fitting DC plug would be appropriate. The quality psu have a nice fitting plug for these amps.

When DC parts are under spec the plug can melt + potential fire hazard.
 
The separate power brick already suggest low quality. My guess is, that this a way to bypass some regulation, for example maximum power draw, when amplifier is turned off.
 
The separate power brick already suggest low quality. My guess is, that this a way to bypass some regulation, for example maximum power draw, when amplifier is turned off.
Man, swapping out power supplies has unironically turned into a fun little rabbit hole for me! :cool:
 
No, the 220v jack on the brick.

The DC cable and plugs are a topic for themselves. I can only guess they use parts rated for the power of that psu. A good fitting DC plug would be appropriate. The quality psu have a nice fitting plug for these amps.

When DC parts are under spec the plug can melt + potential fire hazard.
Scary stuff! I actually swapped out the power cable once, but then it hit me—if they’re skimping on small details like that, the PSU itself is probably total junk anyway.
 
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The separate power brick already suggest low quality. My guess is, that this a way to bypass some regulation, for example maximum power draw, when amplifier is turned off.
separate : reduce size of the box , reduce heat and heat problem in the box , reduce probleme of electromagnetic ou perturbation of the signal , easy to change if problem ... power brick can have very very high psu level can work 20 year without probleme My sony tv 9005XE have a power brick .. not cheap 1500 e ..
 
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