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New amplification system: any advice on three options?

Olivastro

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Jan 13, 2026
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Hello and enjoy the music,
I need to replace my beloved old Onkio A-840 (an old integrated amplifier rated at 60+60W at 8 ohms).

I listen to different genres and enjoy playing music; I built my own speakers (two satellites with SIPE speakers + 1 subwoofer with CIARE HSI 251 woofer mounted in a bass reflex enclosure). Listening environment 40 square meters. Nowadays I mainly use a DAC assembled on a Raspberry PI, but I also have two stacks of CDs that I still listen to
The three passive speakers (satellite + subwoofer) were connected to the same amplifier output: never had any problems!

I am proposing three possible combinations, necessarily in class D due to my limited budget:

1. A “powerful” integrated amplifier such as the 3eAudio A7, to which the speaker system can be connected to the two outputs
2. A “transparent” integrated amplifier such as the Topping 300micro for the satellites + a Fosi V3 mono for the subwoofer (here I think I would have problems with the sub volume control)
3. A “pragmatic” FosiAudio system consisting of the P4 and two V3 monos, to whose outputs I would connect the satellites and subwoofer together.

Can you advise me?
Thank you for your help.
 
Hi @Olivastro! Welcome to ASR.

To extract the most out of your speaker system, you'd ideallly want something that can do proper subwoofer integration and room correction.

A miniDSP 2x4 HD + 1x Stereo Satellite Amp + 1x Mono Subwoofer Amp would be possible. Volume control then via the miniDSP Remote only.

A WiiM Amp/Amp Pro/Amp Ultra + 1x Mono Subwoofer Amp would also be a good option. Volume control then via the Amp's knob, the WiiM Remote, or the WiiM Home App,

One advantage of subwoofer integration is that your Satellite Amp will no longer play bass frequencies, and will therefore output fewer watts so you can save some money there.
 
A “powerful” integrated amplifier such as the 3eAudio A7, to which the speaker system can be connected to the two outputs
2. A “transparent” integrated amplifier such as the Topping 300micro for the satellites + a Fosi V3 mono for the subwoofer (here I think I would have problems with the sub volume control)
3. A “pragmatic” FosiAudio system consisting of the P4 and two V3 monos, to whose outputs I would connect the satellites and subwoofer together.
Don't know what you mean by powerful, transparent or pragmatic. The will all be audibly transparent.

As budget is a big factor, I would get three of whatever is the cheapest. More important will be a method to manage bass as @staticV3 mentioned.
 
Thank you for your prompt replies!

I understand and agree with the reasoning, but unfortunately, I have checked and this option is not within my budget.
With the Wiim Amp, I am close to reaching my budget, but could I postpone the purchase of a V3 Mono until the future? (Do you know of any alternatives to the Fusi V3 mono?)
 
Thank you for your prompt replies!

I understand and agree with the reasoning, but unfortunately, I have checked and this option is not within my budget.
With the Wiim Amp, I am close to reaching my budget, but could I postpone the purchase of a V3 Mono until the future? (Do you know of any alternatives to the Fusi V3 mono?)
If used is an option, the Wiim devices hold up well. (I own about 15 of them). Might be enough to afford a V3. You will be impressed by the improvement with bass management.
 
but could I postpone the purchase of a V3 Mono until the future? (Do you know of any alternatives to the Fusi V3 mono?)
Because you have the skills you could add a plate amp to your sub, maybe. The market has several options and price points.
 
An amplifier like the V3, however small, can certainly give tonal balance to music, symphonic music for example! It is no coincidence that I arrived at this solution in two of my three hypotheses.

However, from the AVS tests, the only point in favor of the WiiM is its pre-out output.
First of all, its 60W will not be “real” since Amir tested the 100W of the superior model to be 73W, if I'm not mistaken.
As for the measurements, the Topping mini300 is already far superior in terms of sound detail quality.

For this reason, in the case of the Fosi system, I had put the P4 preamp first...
 
Because you have the skills you could add a plate amp to your sub, maybe. The market has several options and price points.
I could, of course, but... do you have a project to suggest? Because there are too many cards on the market and I really don't know which one to choose. I saw Hypex, but it's out of our budget, I don't know anything else....
 
I could, of course, but... do you have a project to suggest? Because there are too many cards on the market and I really don't know which one to choose. I saw Hypex, but it's out of our budget, I don't know anything else....
Not an expert maybe others will weigh in
 
Not an expert maybe others will weigh in
overBudget!
I need to think of something that goes in that direction. In time, I might consider equipping my passive subwoofer with an integrated amplification module.
The problem is that I can't do it today!
So I have to think differently, which is why I have painstakingly read and reread Amir's reviews to find a good compromise that suits my budget as well as my ears ;-)
 
I don't think you said how much power you want, or how much your speakers can handle. Or what your actual budget is...

To do bass management "right" you might exceed your budget. :(

The "standard easy" way to get bass management (an electronic crossover) is with an AVR. (You don't have to use the "extra" surround channels.) You can find (new) AVRs starting at around $400 USD. But you won't get significantly more power, and since they have line-level subwoofer outputs you'll need another amp.

Another common solution is an active subwoofer with line-level pass-through for the high-passed main stereo channels. That would mean a new sub or a plate amp (with this feature). And you need something like a preamp, plus a separate stereo power amp. Or if your Onkio has volume-controlled "preamp outputs" you can use it as a preamp/control center.

Or you can buy a crossover for around $100 USD but you still need volume-controlled line outputs and of course, 3-channels of amplification.
 
First of all, its 60W will not be “real” since Amir tested the 100W of the superior model to be 73W, if I'm not mistaken.
You're mistaken. All WiiM Amps have met their specified power numbers in Amir's tests.

The only discrepancy is that Amir specifies power "at the knee", which is not industry standard and so usually won't match official specs.

For example with the 73W you mentioned:
WiiM Vibelink Digital Stereo Audio Amplifier Toslink Power 8 ohm Measurement.png

You need to keep in mind that WiiM's numbers (unless specified otherwise) are at 1% THD (=-40dB).
And if you trace the graph until it crosses -40dB, you get exactly 100W.
 
Thanks to all your comments, I have realized that my initial assumptions are incorrect!

So, first of all, I'm thinking it would be better to equip the passive subwoofer with an amplifier card to turn it into an active one: Luxus Audio produces one that could be adapted in terms of power to the dual-coil woofer I have in the cabinet (the SD200). I know how to do it!

I need either a system with a preamplifier equipped with sub outputs and a stereo power amplifier, or an integrated amplifier with sub outputs. To stay within budget, I am considering the following options:

a. first option: the Fosi P4 paired with the Topping 300mini, for example

b. second option: Fosi BT20Amax (but we have no proof, so it's good... in theory!), or... I should consider, but I'm not convinced because I hope the first option is better, an inexpensive Aiyima A70.

What do you think?
 
a. first option: the Fosi P4 paired with the Topping 300mini, for example

b. second option: Fosi BT20Amax (but we have no proof, so it's good... in theory!), or... I should consider, but I'm not convinced because I hope the first option is better, an inexpensive Aiyima A70.

What do you think?
None if these options support DSP for taming room modes and fine tuning the crossover between sub and mains.

In practice, this means that you will leave potential sound quality on the table - you will not get the most out of your speakers.

Alternatives that have DSP are the WiiM Amp and a few different Amps from Arylic, more on these here.
 
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None if these options support DSP for taming room modes and fine tuning the crossover between sub and mains.

In practice, this means that you will leave potential sound quality on the table - you will not get the most out of your speakers.

Alternatives that have DSP are the WiiM Amp and a few different Amps from Arylic, more on these here.
Could it be that I'm not interested in the features offered by WiiM and Ayrilic?
I use Volumio to stream my FLAC files, and that's enough for me.

Of course, I could go to a hi-fi store to listen to WiiM and maybe... (I've read the test results here on ASR, and I should buy at least the WiiM Amp Ultra! But then I might have lots of other alternatives to consider for that price).

I just want to understand which of the two options I've mentioned you think is best, thank you.
 
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