Need to replace my tweeters on Infinity Primus 360 Tower speakers

[Audio1000!]

Can anyone suggest an upgrade tweeter for replacement? One of them went bad (no sound.) I will test with meter but likely need to upgrade anyway.

Thanks.

 

[mhardy6647]

Are you sure it is the tweeter and not a crossover component 'upstream' of the tweeter?
By all means, you should check the tweeter for an open voicecoil (either with a DMM or VTVM, or by using a pair of clip leads and a small 1.5 V battery (e.g., an "AA" size "penlight cell) and listen for static as you complete the circuit). If the VC is OK and/or the tweeter itself can be demonstrated to "work" with the battery test, the problem lies elsewhere.

IF the tweeter is actually bad. You should replace like for like (i.e., a new or used "Infinity Primus 360" tweeter). eBAY may well turn up one (or more) used ones. New (NOS, "new old stock", or a replacement from Infinity) might be difficult to find. EDIT a search on eBAY only turned up a pair of generic replacement domes with voicecoils from China, which might be quite difficult for a beginner to install and align properly.

Otherwise, you will have to match the sensitivity, impedance characteristics, and Fs (resonance) of any putative replacement tweeter very closely to the original and/or you'll have to revise the crossover to accommodate the replacement. If you change one tweeter to a different type, you'll pretty much "have to" change the other one to match it, especially if crossover modifications are involved.

Did you abuse the loudspeaker(s)? Is there no protection for the tweeter (fuse, or something like a "Polyswitch" self-resetting fuse)? In other words, do you know why/how it happened, and how to prevent it from happening again?

 

[Blumlein 88]

Have checked replacement parts from Harman? Few years back I fixed a pair and the price was very fair.

 

[Mr. Widget]

Have checked replacement parts from Harman? Few years back I fixed a pair and the price was very fair.

In general if they have the parts they are very reasonable... but that has been a big if.

 

[mhardy6647]

Indeed.
If still available, original replacement(s) would definitely be the way to go.

 

[Audio1000!]

Are you sure it is the tweeter and not a crossover component 'upstream' of the tweeter?
By all means, you should check the tweeter for an open voicecoil (either with a DMM or VTVM, or by using a pair of clip leads and a small 1.5 V battery (e.g., an "AA" size "penlight cell) and listen for static as you complete the circuit). If the VC is OK and/or the tweeter itself can be demonstrated to "work" with the battery test, the problem lies elsewhere.

IF the tweeter is actually bad. You should replace like for like (i.e., a new or used "Infinity Primus 360" tweeter). eBAY may well turn up one (or more) used ones. New (NOS, "new old stock", or a replacement from Infinity) might be difficult to find. EDIT a search on eBAY only turned up a pair of generic replacement domes with voicecoils from China, which might be quite difficult for a beginner to install and align properly.

Otherwise, you will have to match the sensitivity, impedance characteristics, and Fs (resonance) of any putative replacement tweeter very closely to the original and/or you'll have to revise the crossover to accommodate the replacement. If you change one tweeter to a different type, you'll pretty much "have to" change the other one to match it, especially if crossover modifications are involved.

Did you abuse the loudspeaker(s)? Is there no protection for the tweeter (fuse, or something like a "Polyswitch" self-resetting fuse)? In other words, do you know why/how it happened, and how to prevent it from happening again?

No, I did not even think about that. Thank you. This speaker is elevated on top of an entertainment center. I did not bump it. It's just old. What if I just replaced both tweeters? Are there not general tweeters that I could swap in? The crossover is already there right? I should not have to do much. Tweeters should be designed...to tweet (aka accept the crossover frequency.) Matching ohms probably matters.

 

[mhardy6647]

It's not old.

Four of the six drivers in my "serious' loudspeakers are decades old
Some of the loudspeakers here are older than I -- and I am old.

 

[fpitas]

No, I did not even think about that. Thank you. This speaker is elevated on top of an entertainment center. I did not bump it. It's just old. What if I just replaced both tweeters? Are there not general tweeters that I could swap in? The crossover is already there right? I should not have to do much. Tweeters should be designed...to tweet (aka accept the crossover frequency.) Matching ohms probably matters.

Simply swapping one tweeter for a different one can be a mare's nest. The crossover was designed for the impedance curve and FR of the original tweeter. Unfortunately (or fortunately?) they are not like peas in a pod, all having the same characteristics.

 

[AudiOhm]

As mentioned above, you need to make sure it is the tweeter at fault and not the crossover.

If the crossover is at fault you can change the tweeters to what ever you like, one still will not work.

You can purchase parts online.
Infinity Primus 360 Ebay

Older topic in another forum, same issue...
AVS Forum

Ohms

 

[Mr. Widget]

As mentioned above, you need to make sure it is the tweeter at fault and not the crossover.

If the crossover is at fault you can change the tweeters to what ever you like, one still will not work.

You can purchase parts online.
Infinity Primus 360 Ebay

Older topic in another forum, same issue...
AVS Forum

Ohms

Good point on verification. Tweeters like this fail easily and crossovers rarely do, but it is best to verify.

To verify the tweeter is the issue, you simply swap the tweeters. If the failed tweeter is still dead in the second enclosure then it is a tweeter issue.
Regarding those eBay replacement parts, tweeters are very fussy and require a fair amount of precision and QC. I would be surprised if those aftermarket domes will be an exact replacement or perform as new.

 

[mhardy6647]

1) Many modern crossovers soak up a fair amount of amplifier power (i.e., they're electrically inefficient). In fairness, the Infinity Primus line were "value leaders" and probably have fairly simple crossovers. That said: Folks do sometimes fry crossovers.

LSi15 Crossovers Burned Through!!!

Hi to all, New here so bear with me. I?m not sure how to start, but here is a quick history of my LSi15?s, since it may limit your ideas.

forum.polkaudio.com

2) Capacitors in XOs (crossovers) can and do fail -- although, in fairness, usually only really old ones. E.g., I have a pair of Dynaco A25s (mid 1970s vintage) that had no output from one tweeter as acquired. Quick troubleshooting revealed the tweeter was fine, but the Dynaco's (simple first-order) XO capacitor -- was not.

 

[AudiOhm]

Just as a reference value.

There is a set for sale in Canada on Kijiji, asking price $200.00 CDN ($150.00 US).
Infinity Primus 360 Kijiji

Ohms

 

[Audio1000!]

Thanks everyone. I bought a cheap, $20 tweeter and threw it in. It works great- at least so far. I A/B's it with the OEM tweeter on the other speaker with a meter and it's identical if not slightly better. It is ~20 years newer! This old Yam. receiver has really held up. Not a single issue.

Per everyone's advice, I tested the tweeter with a meter first. There was no continuity and zero Ohms. I only hope this tweeter lasts. It is only rated for 20 watts RMS. The Receiver is a very old Yamaha 5930 5.1. It is rated for 5 x 110 watts but correct me if I am wrong, the tweeters will not see 110 watts?

Also, does volume matter? I never play over 75dB's.

Here is the tweeter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077FN4FSJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Thanks again!

 

[Mr. Widget]

Did you replace both tweeters? If not, you should. Assuming you listen to stereo, it is more important that the two speakers match than one being "better".

Don't worry about too much power to the tweeter. The amount of power that a tweeter receives is fairly low compared to the mids and woofers. That said, typically it is a smaller amp being driven into clipping (asking the amp to play louder than the amplifier is capable of) that toasts most tweeters. If you find your amp is regularly running out of steam or sounding a little harsh, then you should consider getting a larger amp or lower the volume.

Interesting, even a classic mail order business like Parts Express is selling their wares on Amazon... I guess a discounted sale is better than no sale.

 

[Audio1000!]

No, just one but I just ordered the other- thanks.

My amp does not come close to clipping. I never go above 70dB's (I measure.) I have a bad ear so I cannot. I run it at about 25% of max. So I guess you are saying that would also help save the tweeter too.

I bought via Amazon. Seems (and sounds) like a very decent, basic fluid filled soft dome 3/4" tweeter should. Total cost for both was <$37 bucks so not too bad. With my KEF KC62 sub, the system sounds great.

 

[Mr. Widget]

If you never play it loudly, then how did you burn the voicecoil? An accidental overload?

In any case, yes, if you don't pay it loudly and you are happy with the sound, then you are good to go.

 

[Audio1000!]

No idea. Never loud. 75db max. Not quiet but you can always talk over it.

 

[AudiOhm]

The capacitor in a tweeter crossover is in series with the tweeter.

If the capacitor is shorted the tweeter will receive the full frequency spectrum including the low frequencies,

if so this tweeter may also burn out...

Ohms

 

[Elkerton]

The tweeters in those speakers are the weak link. Harman has run out of stock, but they were cheap when available and expensive aftermarket. I bought a pair of smaller bookshelf P series speakers and took the tweeters from them. As in many lines, the tweeters are often the same model to model (though the faceplate may change). The cabinet size and compliment of woofers change. My P362s now sound just fine.
O, and BTW, the tweeters in the P360, P362, and P363 are the same.

 

[AudiOhm]

I see that you have replaced your tweeters, keep the old ones.

If you have any issues with the new ones you can have the originals repaired.
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Ohms