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Need Direction in upgrading my theater

In my opinion, overhead speakers are less significant than surround speakers and surround speakers are less significant than fronts. In fact, I recently removed/sold my left rear and right rear speakers since they contributed so little to the movie experience, and I now run 5.3.6 rather than 7.3.6. I use Triad Golds for overheads and Genelecs for surround and fronts in my system.
 
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If I can find surface mount ceiling

My seat is second row, second one in from the bottom of the page. These are his speakers he wants me to buy. Grimani ATMOS Ceiling Speaker
I see you need on ceiling and not in ceiling. You might consider an angled, on ceiling coaxial such as the Ascendo The6 or The10 Wedge.
No special amps required, can be mounted on ceiling it appears.
 
In my opinion, overhead speakers are less significant than surround speakers and surround speakers are less significant that fronts. In fact, I recently removed/sold my left rear and right rear speakers since they contributed so little to the movie experience, and I now run 5.3.6 rather than 7.3.6. I use Triad Golds for overheads and Genelecs for surround and fronts in my system.
If I was forced to remove a pair of speakers from a system that had surround backs, I would probably choose those. I have had surround backs for a long long time and when they are called upon, they are quite effective. Was watching Jurasic Park in DTS:X today and there was tons of activity in all speakers and some very discrete sounds coming from the back that just wouldn’t have been the same if they weren’t there.
 
I guess the main issue with these speakers is that they are directly pointing towards a seating position, instead of delivering sound to all positions. That horn will be super directional.

Seems to me, this is not a typical property for such a speaker. Not for a home cinema anyway. It probably works for a large space where those are quite far overhead.
From the second row, my ceiling is 10'6" it goes to 11'6" up front and 9'6" on the back. Not sure if that makes a difference?
 
I guess the main issue with these speakers is that they are directly pointing towards a seating position, instead of delivering sound to all positions. That horn will be super directional.

Seems to me, this is not a typical property for such a speaker. Not for a home cinema anyway. It probably works for a large space where those are quite far overhead.
This is best practice in the home. You want all seats to be within the speakers dispersion pattern. If speakers are say 45 degrees forward for example it woudln’t make any sense to have them point downward. Just like you want the center and left/right to be generally pointed at you.
 
This is best practice in the home. You want all seats to be within the speakers dispersion pattern
Which is not what you get with those. They are pointed towards a seating position each and are quite directional. So each seat would be covered by one overhead speaker, instead of them all covering all positions (wide dispersion).
 
Trinnov C1 I believe is an all digital solution. If you go digital with either storm or Trinnov, you are in store for a large upgrade bill for sure. In regards to Trinnov vs Storm, this is a good read.
If you are planning to redo your subs in a Trinnov Waveforming layout, I am sure it would sound great. If not, I would go Dirac ART.
With Trinnov… audio lock is slow from what I understand, Storm is not as fast as Marantz, but faster than Trinnov.
Trinnov, no bass/treble, no loudness compensation (Storm has these if these matter to you).
Denon/Marantz has fewer cross terms for Dirac ART than Storm which is a bit limiting vs Storm.
Denon/Marantz just work, audio lock is fast, reliable, much much easier to set up for everyday users.
Worth it is a judgement. I went the other way, back to Marantz once it got Dirac ART.
OK. You made up my mind. I am going to stay with Marantz AV10 and build off that. I will tell AG that I have located the gear and speakers and will do the install myself and hope he can still calibrate. Like I mentioned before he installed an Ashly processer with my 7701 mkII. I am not sure what is actually does but I have the config files. Curious if he would leave it in or just calibrate with the Marantz?
 
OK. You made up my mind. I am going to stay with Marantz AV10 and build off that. I will tell AG that I have located the gear and speakers and will do the install myself and hope he can still calibrate. Like I mentioned before he installed an Ashly processer with my 7701 mkII. I am not sure what is actually does but I have the config files. Curious if he would leave it in or just calibrate with the Marantz?
If you are wanting 2 sets of side surrounds you will have to figure out how to do it. I am guessing the Ashly processor may be helping with that (not sure). If he is going to calibrate it for you and do speaker layout, he will figure that out for you. The second set of surrounds, can be done now within the AV10/A1H using the custom preout of the AV10. In the speaker layout, select front wide, then in the custom preout section, flip them to output surround instead. Then you will have 2 pairs of surrounds. Or stick with how he has it set up now which is probably more flexible.
And have him explain the top rest location to you that he has marked. There must be a miscommunication somewhere as it should be behind your main seating…
 
If you are wanting 2 sets of side surrounds you will have to figure out how to do it. I am guessing the Ashly processor may be helping with that (not sure). If he is going to calibrate it for you and do speaker layout, he will figure that out for you. The second set of surrounds, can be done now within the AV10/A1H using the custom preout of the AV10. In the speaker layout, select front wide, then in the custom preout section, flip them to output surround instead. Then you will have 2 pairs of surrounds. Or stick with how he has it set up now which is probably more flexible.
And have him explain the top rest location to you that he has marked. There must be a miscommunication somewhere as it should be behind your main seating…
I found a report from AG about the room when he first did the re-design and here is his explanation on using the Ashly
A digital audio processor / equalizer with at least 8 inputs and 12
outputs should be used in this room. Adding 2 more outputs would allow
independent tuning of the side speakers too. PMI recommends the Ashly NE24.24m
8x16 for this application.
 
I found a report from AG about the room when he first did the re-design and here is his explanation on using the Ashly
A digital audio processor / equalizer with at least 8 inputs and 12
outputs should be used in this room. Adding 2 more outputs would allow
independent tuning of the side speakers too. PMI recommends the Ashly NE24.24m
8x16 for this application.
Exactly… it took the surround channel which is usually 2 speakers and split it into 4 for you to have 4 surrounds on sides instead of the normal 2. I would guess he would live it in place so you could do the same.
 
i'm to busy feeding my cats and i wouldn't have anthony grimani anywhere ne
Exactly… it took the surround channel which is usually 2 speakers and split it into 4 for you to have 4 surrounds on sides instead of the normal 2. I would guess he would live it in place so you could do the same.
ever wondered why the sidewall surrounds ain't (( stereo )) , mute or solo each sidewall surround how they are not (( stereo )) oh may get that pan though but oh how it sounds so plastic like , i hardly play atmos anymore ,m dtsx pro could't care less for it , most discs mixes are rubbish now
i doubt you have you processor ( theatre mode for Dolby Stereo ) not many that have these processors around the world do
have you even considered using ( five screen ) hardly any that have these processors around the world running ( five screen ) not that many know the sound format codes ?
not that many mixes atmos use five screen , some that do use it very little , some that do use it very effectively , gravity uses it , and can use ( seven screen )
( L Lc Scl C Scr Rc R )

not many home theatres can do ( 1977 baby boom Lc Rc ) they got the stage and subs all messed up , oh many are star wars fans , what no baby boom , that ain't good
let remind you the lFE.1 hasn't changed all that much since 1977 , oh extended frequency by also reducing its original upper limit , extended dynamic range and that's about it , no improved , LFE.1 LFE.2 LFE.3 LFE.4 LFE.5 and so on so can be used proper for ( psychoacoustic effects )
i mean t-rex boom- boom footfalls what a load of BS that is , clearly sound designer mixers director producers are clueless
 
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i'm to busy feeding my cats and i wouldn't have anthony grimani anywhere ne

ever wondered why the sidewall surrounds ain't (( stereo )) , mute or solo each sidewall surround how they are not (( stereo )) oh may get that pan though but oh how it sounds so plastic like , i hardly play atmos anymore ,m dtsx pro could't care less for it , most discs mixes are rubbish now
i doubt you have you processor ( theatre mode for Dolby Stereo ) not many that have these processors around the world do
have you even considered using ( five screen ) hardly any that have these processors around the world running ( five screen ) not that many know the sound format codes ?
not that many mixes atmos use five screen , some that do use it very little , some that do use it very effectively , gravity uses it , and can use ( seven screen )
( L Lc Scl C Scr Rc R )

not many home theatres can do ( 1977 baby boom Lc Rc ) they got the stage and subs all messed up , oh many are star wars fans , what no baby boom , that ain't good
let remind you the lFE.1 hasn't changed all that much since 1977 , oh extended frequency by also reducing its original upper limit , extended dynamic range and that's about it , no improved , LFE.1 LFE.2 LFE.3 LFE.4 LFE.5 and so on so can be used proper for ( psychoacoustic effects )
i mean t-rex boom- boom footfalls what a load of BS that is , clearly sound designer mixers director producers are clueless
Topic…
‘Need Direction in upgrading my theater“
He wants to upgrade to Atmos.
Your opinion, Atmos Sucks.
Many many others find it very good and enjoyable.. and worth the effort and expense.
 
Topic…
‘Need Direction in upgrading my theater“
He wants to upgrade to Atmos.
Your opinion, Atmos Sucks.
Many many others find it very good and enjoyable.. and worth the effort and expense.
I'm surprised you could even read it. Makes no sense
 
OK. You made up my mind. I am going to stay with Marantz AV10 and build off that. I will tell AG that I have located the gear and speakers and will do the install myself and hope he can still calibrate. Like I mentioned before he installed an Ashly processer with my 7701 mkII. I am not sure what is actually does but I have the config files. Curious if he would leave it in or just calibrate with the Marantz?
Both Dirac ART and Trinnov WaveForming are revolutionary room correction tech with results never before possible even with the best set ups. ART is highly flexible, using your existing layout for active reflection cancellation without the need for any physical room tweaks. WaveForming demands strict placement (front/rear subwoofer arrays) but delivers unmatched bass uniformity and decay through beamforming. Trinnov also outperforms Dirac in high-frequency EQ using 3D capture and advanced eigenvector filtering. If you stay with ART, upgrading from D&M to StormAudio is expensive, but offers a slight edge in audio resolution and support exists.
 
My thought on this redesign is this. Arendal monitor 8 for L/R, Arendal Slim 8 for center. Already own.

Processor AV10. VTV,Buckeye or ATI for front 3 Adding 4 height speakers. I am thinking of perlisten A or R series surrounds for ceiling speakers. Keeping my lab gruppen for subs and surrounds.

Another question is should I keep the 18" Triad subs for the front or should I swap them out with a better subwoofer. Any recommendations?

Thoughts?
 


Thoughts?

Sounds like you do not know what you want, and are just throwing chum in the water to what it attracts?


My thought on this redesign is this. Arendal monitor 8 for L/R, Arendal Slim 8 for center. Already own.

Maybe a list of what you already have would help.
We are only a couple of pages in, but I am already kinda lost.



Processor AV10. VTV,Buckeye or ATI for front 3 Adding 4 height speakers. I am thinking of perlisten A or R series surrounds for ceiling speakers. Keeping my lab gruppen for subs and surrounds.

I don’t know what the AV10 is, but I am guessing the Marantz that you were talking about.
I got the Lingdorf, but anything with mic and an auto setup is useful (IMO).




Another question is should I keep the 18" Triad subs for the front or should I swap them out with a better subwoofer. Any recommendations?

Thoughts?

Crickey!
What is wrong with the subs, now?

I swear this thread started out with Grimaldi and Atmos, but now it’s done sort of did an inversion… and we’re looking down at subs, versus up towards the heavens?

At this rate it’ll be a new wife, house, dog and listening room.
 
My thought on this redesign is this. Arendal monitor 8 for L/R, Arendal Slim 8 for center. Already own.

Processor AV10. VTV,Buckeye or ATI for front 3 Adding 4 height speakers. I am thinking of perlisten A or R series surrounds for ceiling speakers. Keeping my lab gruppen for subs and surrounds.

Another question is should I keep the 18" Triad subs for the front or should I swap them out with a better subwoofer. Any recommendations?

Thoughts?
Well, I think you want new stuff. We all get there—too often for our wallets. But money is not an audible quality. So, if you want new subs I would get new subs. Plus you are in a change mindset anyway. You will smile and enjoy your new stuff afterwards.

There are plenty people who believe “bang for the buck” is the highest calling for them in this hobby. You don’t sound like you are one of them.
 
My thought on this redesign is this. Arendal monitor 8 for L/R, Arendal Slim 8 for center. Already own.

Processor AV10. VTV,Buckeye or ATI for front 3 Adding 4 height speakers. I am thinking of perlisten A or R series surrounds for ceiling speakers. Keeping my lab gruppen for subs and surrounds.

Another question is should I keep the 18" Triad subs for the front or should I swap them out with a better subwoofer. Any recommendations?

Thoughts?
If you are going with new design probably best to stick with more unified speaker setup. Probably some of the best AV speakers nowadays are Perlisten R or even better S series, or Arendal 1728 series. Ascendo also has great speakers but not so familiar with their range. There are definitely other brands that would do well - but again, not that familiar with them.

Center as the most important speaker should not be "slim" - it should be as fat as LR. Your bed channels don't really need to be full towers as ART prefers and well integrates subs. But in this grade of setup they should be able to go loud and clear up to 105dB at 80hz or so.

AV10 is a good choice but you should further explore 2 surrounds setup option as that is not native to processor. Even if you can't EQ these channels separately, probably fine if they are same speakers and not located too far away.

Not sure what do you want from the subs. ART will be supported up to 20hz, after that it is a bit of a wild card what happens. Sub positioning is generally most beneficial when 2 or more up front and 2 or more in the back. Gives ART more room to do cancellations based on traditional DBA concept, although not really necessary in every room.

While Trinnov might have an edge in certain aspects of room correction and flexibility, it certainly does not have the same flexibility for positioning like ART does. While they have the simple DBA mode, it is not clear to me what is the drawback of such "simple" placement vs their full monty that requires more strict positioning. Also, if going Trinnov route better check what it actually does in operation. It is not only flowers.
 
My thought on this redesign is this. Arendal monitor 8 for L/R, Arendal Slim 8 for center. Already own.

Processor AV10. VTV,Buckeye or ATI for front 3 Adding 4 height speakers. I am thinking of perlisten A or R series surrounds for ceiling speakers. Keeping my lab gruppen for subs and surrounds.

Another question is should I keep the 18" Triad subs for the front or should I swap them out with a better subwoofer. Any recommendations?

Thoughts?

Honeslty - if you want the best - get Trinnov, get subs to support Waveforming, get Adam Pelz [or similar calibre] calibrate your system - and then forget about it for next 10 years. All 3 aspects are equally important - only proper calibration will make any system play to its full potential. Everything else is compromise. Altitude CI gives you 8 analogue outputs, for other channels you need to go either AoIP or AES/EBU way [no issue today with 8CH high-quality DACs available]. I will consider moving to CI in my next HT build, as AoIP multiroom solution [e.g. controlling 2 HTs from one Trinnov unit - this is where it starts to make sense also financially - e.g. introducing bedroom HT or outdoor audio. Still waiting, as Trinnov is promising some basic AoIP functionality [no Dante, for Sure] also for current Altitude 16/32 units.

D&M with ART would be my choice, if you prefer ease of installation&setup over performance. Storm only if you want Adam/OtherPro to calibrate or you want AoIP, but for some reason you do not want to get Trinnov.
 
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I guess the main issue with these speakers is that they are directly pointing towards a seating position, instead of delivering sound to all positions. That horn will be super directional.

Seems to me, this is not a typical property for such a speaker. Not for a home cinema anyway. It probably works for a large space where those are quite far overhead.
In reality, this was true for old Dolby systems pre-mastered in their channels. Atmos is object-based and does not benefit from wide dispersion. On the contrary, it has better results with directional speakers, because the sensation of three-dimensionality and the ability to virtualize an object comes from the precise distribution of the sound that the decoder sets for your Atmos configuration. The fewer reflections there are, the more precise the spatial positioning is, which is why classic dipole speakers are no longer used in modern Atmos configurations.
 
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