• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Need advice on floor speakers, budget around 1,500 $

Copenhagen :)

Looks like those are a bit tricky to come across in DK as well. So far I mostly
just seen search results from GB.


I’m getting very convinced I should just buy the Lintons. The price also seems very favorable, at least in my case here. I see the them go for 1,500 $ on sale at Crutchfield in the US, I can get them for around 1,240 here. Normally I would have to add +25% or so to the US price.

You write:

“Personally, I don't like beaming in the upper frequency range and prefer the 'room filling' sound of wider dispersion speakers.”

I like this description of what to expect from them. It’s not easy for me to imagine the difference in sound between different types of speakers, but this helps to clarify some.

May I ask the dimensions of your room where the Lintons are placed and the distance to the wall?

About the amplifier choice:

I honestly prefer getting a properly time tested product to one which may have very fine stats and come with state-of-the-art components.

In that regard the Yamaha looks to be a solid choice. I think the loudness control could come in handy too.

From what I have read, the A-S501 should provide sufficient juice for the Lintons, at least I have read about multiple people doing this pairing. However, if that is actually not the case, I would naturally have to look for another amplifier. Also, if you can expect more clean and superior sound with another sort of pairing, which isn’t much more expensive, I would be inclined to consider that option even if the product is quite new.

"Sufficient juice" depending whether how much you use that loudness and bass knob. The Lintons do get demanding below 100 Hz.


Wharfedale%20Linton%2085%20%28Grille%20On%29%20Impedance.png
 
Maybe the new integrated by Buckeye? Should be out soon as integrated only, using the WiiM Pro Plus as DAC.
Buckeye's integrated can be ordered with NC502MP with 2 x 500W into 4 ohms (or more like 2 x 600W into 4 ohms as measured), just saying.

 
Last edited:
Buckeye's integrated can be ordered with NC502MP with 2 x 500W into 4 ohms (or more like 2 x 600W into 4 ohms as measured), just saying.

OP is from Denmark.
 
Buckeye's integrated can be ordered with NC502MP with 2 x 500W into 4 ohms (or more like 2 x 600W into 4 ohms as measured), just saying.

I think that one will be a bit out of my budget.

Maybe one with the NC252MP module like this? https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/inte...2x250w-4-ohm-32bit-768khz-dsd256-p-16952.html

I would appreciate the internal DAC, especially the volume knob, since I don’t think I can adjust the volume properly with just the WiiM remote and/or phone. But I wouldn’t need WiiM Pro Plus with the one I linked, could just go for a Mini.
 
I think that one will be a bit out of my budget.

Maybe one with the NC252MP module like this? https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/inte...2x250w-4-ohm-32bit-768khz-dsd256-p-16952.html

I would appreciate the internal DAC, especially the volume knob, since I don’t think I can adjust the volume properly with just the WiiM remote and/or phone. But I wouldn’t need WiiM Pro Plus with the one I linked, could just go for a Mini.
Keep in mind this wouldn't actually be much more powerful than the Yamaha A-S501. The Yamaha is also rated into 2 ohm loads. --> 8/6/4/2 ohm = 130/150/185/220 W.

Given that class D's nom. power is basically equal to its peak power what you see is what you get. The Yamaha has lower continous rating but a peak power that in all practical aspects matches the Audiophonics in question. Maybe if you could get an arrangement with the Yamaha dealer that you could return it if it turns out it isn't up to the task?

The Audiophonics-->
index.php


Yamaha A-S501-->
1703337002563.png
 
Ouch. Do you have any amps you could recommend if I want to be on the safe side?
Look as you menaged to find yourself you will hardly find better speakers for less money than Linton's as it is. We use to recommend Yamahas for known durability and good performance (not great nor fantastic just fine) but in this case it's better to go with something that is more low impedance loads tolerant as AB class Yamahas really ain't. I mean it will work but it's better to go with something that is able to do that part better. I don't know how things go regarding Hypex or similar models in amplifiers with healthy warranty especially where you are. In US there is ATI lineup but it's expensive. So if you can find and for a deacent price something like that it would be preferable to go that way. Keep in mind how Linton's are back ported and great thing about them is that woffer Fs is at 80 Hz so you cross them like that (which is most common and there for convenient) and then they are relatively easy to drive.
There are many ways to get there (with considerable amount of effort of course) like getting a pair of Elac DBR62's and pair of SVS SB-1000 sub's and crossings them at 120 Hz each on their own for the same money (or a little more but still in the budget) and of course then you need MiniDSP Flex or something like that but it's a well played full range system with good dynamics.
If you really don't want sub's the Linton's with a deacent 100~150 W amplifier will do fine and probably better than most up to 100 dB SPL @1 m.
 
Last edited:
Copenhagen :)

Looks like those are a bit tricky to come across in DK as well. So far I mostly
just seen search results from GB.


I’m getting very convinced I should just buy the Lintons. The price also seems very favorable, at least in my case here. I see the them go for 1,500 $ on sale at Crutchfield in the US, I can get them for around 1,240 here. Normally I would have to add +25% or so to the US price.

You write:

“Personally, I don't like beaming in the upper frequency range and prefer the 'room filling' sound of wider dispersion speakers.”

I like this description of what to expect from them. It’s not easy for me to imagine the difference in sound between different types of speakers, but this helps to clarify some.

May I ask the dimensions of your room where the Lintons are placed and the distance to the wall?

About the amplifier choice:

I honestly prefer getting a properly time tested product to one which may have very fine stats and come with state-of-the-art components.

In that regard the Yamaha looks to be a solid choice. I think the loudness control could come in handy too.

From what I have read, the A-S501 should provide sufficient juice for the Lintons, at least I have read about multiple people doing this pairing. However, if that is actually not the case, I would naturally have to look for another amplifier. Also, if you can expect more clean and superior sound with another sort of pairing, which isn’t much more expensive, I would be inclined to consider that option even if the product is quite new.

Close enough :)

Never heard the Lintons, but they seems to be apprechiated by a lot of people! Happy hunting!
 
Keep in mind this wouldn't actually be much more powerful than the Yamaha A-S501. The Yamaha is also rated into 2 ohm loads. --> 8/6/4/2 ohm = 130/150/185/220 W.

Given that class D's nom. power is basically equal to its peak power what you see is what you get. The Yamaha has lower continous rating but a peak power that in all practical aspects matches the Audiophonics in question. Maybe if you could get an arrangement with the Yamaha dealer that you could return it if it turns out it isn't up to the task?

The Audiophonics-->
index.php


Yamaha A-S501-->
View attachment 336524
Thanks for clarifying, Holdt :)

I think the Yamaha looks really well with the Lintons, so having to go for another would be a shame.

Probably could also squeeze in the A-S701 if that would to the trick.
 
Had the WiiM connected to a pair of 4 ohm speakers with around 92 dB sensitivity. Volume increased quite a lot with each "click".

Oh, yes. At least I am pretty convinced about the speakers! :)

I need to figure out that tool Daniel T has linked to above. For example, I don't know how to convert the sensitivity indicated by Wharfedale (90 dB 2.83v @1m) to loudspeaker sensitivity at 1 watt at 1 meter. In general, I don't expect to blast the speakers, but I would appreciate avoiding any clipping on the rare occasion I would turn up the volume. I suppose I wouldn't care to turn it up above 90 dB under any circumstances. How many dBs for amplifier headroom is recommendable?
Keep in mind that two speakers give 3dB extra compared to one.

Distances in excess of 2 meters, even with slightly shorter ones, you can ignore the calculation. Your room with all the reflexes works like a reverberation chamber, you could say. This means that you do not need to increase the volume, normally speaking, from 2 to 3 meters of listening distance. Try it yourself. Listen on 2 meters then on 3 meters. Do you then need to increase the volume to experience the sound as loud then?
 
"... wider dispersion speakers... ”
Speaking of dispersion.

A DIY to get wider distribution on the tweeter. A dispersion lens, or rather dispersion leg. I'm with the parents. My mother fixed it. Not because she had any thought of spreading, other than spreading the Christmas spirit.;) :)
Loudspeaker JPW P1.
IMG_20231223_144133.jpg
 
Thanks for clarifying, Holdt :)

I think the Yamaha looks really well with the Lintons, so having to go for another would be a shame.

Probably could also squeeze in the A-S701 if that would to the trick.

Well, all the A-Sxxxx have about the same power.
 
Well, all the A-Sxxxx have about the same power.
Dang! Would be an easier choice if I wasn’t so limited.

I have a maximum of 960 dollars left to spend on the amp and streamer.
 
I think that one will be a bit out of my budget.

Maybe one with the NC252MP module like this? https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/inte...2x250w-4-ohm-32bit-768khz-dsd256-p-16952.html

I would appreciate the internal DAC, especially the volume knob, since I don’t think I can adjust the volume properly with just the WiiM remote and/or phone. But I wouldn’t need WiiM Pro Plus with the one I linked, could just go for a Mini.
I was just about to send a link to you on the Audiophonics. Looks like a great unit. WRT the speakers, I don’t think you can go wrong with the Lintons, and given your location, the availability of other options, and the pricing, I’d just do it.
 
Dang! Would be an easier choice if I wasn’t so limited.

I have a maximum of 960 dollars left to spend on the amp and streamer.
Not to be a broken record here, but again, SVS Soundbase … though not sure if this is available in DK?
 
Not to be a broken record here, but again, SVS Soundbase … though not sure if this is available in DK?
The SVS Soundbase has yet to reviewed here. I'm just sayin'.
 
I was just about to send a link to you on the Audiophonics. Looks like a great unit. WRT the speakers, I don’t think you can go wrong with the Lintons, and given your location, the availability of other options, and the pricing, I’d just do it.
Very much convinced about the speakers :)
Not to be a broken record here, but again, SVS Soundbase … though not sure if this is available in DK?

Sorry for not commenting on this so far.
It’s available here for around 740 $.

Not sure how it compares to the 501 in terms of power supply.

On one website concerning the SVS:
2 x 150W (RMS), 4 Ohm

On another concerning 501:
2 x 85W (RMS)

Is RMS always compared at 4 ohm?
 
The SVS Soundbase has yet to reviewed here. I'm just sayin'.
This does not mean it should be excluded, just sayin. I have heard this unit extensively driving a pair of Revel F206 and it is excellent.
 
Very much convinced about the speakers :)


Sorry for not commenting on this so far.
It’s available here for around 740 $.

Not sure how it compares to the 501 in terms of power supply.

On one website concerning the SVS:
2 x 150W (RMS), 4 Ohm

On another concerning 501:
2 x 85W (RMS)

Is RMS always compared at 4 ohm?
There are several subjective reviews of the SVS on the interweb, check those out for some different opinions driving different loads.

Also some measurements here:

Not sure if available in EU, but at least in US they offer a 45 day trial period. Nothing to lose if it doesn’t work for you.
 
Back
Top Bottom