Poor conclusion as to what I believe. Does this fit your purposes better, tho? Seems so....goodbye!To you, a troll is anyone who challenges your point of view. What does that make you?
Poor conclusion as to what I believe. Does this fit your purposes better, tho? Seems so....goodbye!To you, a troll is anyone who challenges your point of view. What does that make you?
When did I lead you to believe I shared your perspective on anything?Devil's advocate for much of it and it gets tedious.
My purpose here was simply to get some advice about an amp, not to be indoctrinated into some cult trying to gaslight me by saying I’m hearing things that aren’t actually there. Not my cup of tea. Bye.Poor conclusion as to what I believe. Does this fit your purposes better, tho? Seems so....goodbye!
Yet this particular thread is about a budget amp. Hardly a thread gear snobs should be wasting their precious time weighing in on.ASR is not a budget website it is for all price ranges and for different customers too.
Maybe an analogy would help. If I have a car with an engine which makes 40hp in 4th gear at 3000rpm; then I swap the engine for one with the same RPM range but twice the power. The new engine makes 80hp in 4th gear at 3000rpm. I can drive it at 40mph in 5th gear now at a lower RPM. In all testing, I drive the car at 30mph with the same transmission and the same tires at a constant speed.Are you talking to me? If you are, I never said I pushed my amp to clipping. Like I said, it gets plenty loud but perhaps they would exhibit the sibilance with a more powerful amp cause my room sucks. All I know is the Polks don’t have that issue and neither so my Sonys. It could be due to the huge waveguides but then again, they aren’t sibilant at all when powered by my $200 50watt hybrid tube amp. I guess that’s impossible in your book.
ASR is not a budget website it is for all price ranges and for different customers too.
A motor drives wheels, an amp drives speakers- except a high power motor definitely sounds different while a new amp apparently doesn’t and a high power motor can easily light up those tires making them scream like the old motor never could. Are we through with analogies?
You know, I must just have to just to blow off some steam! LolOK - but ASR is not a “The General Public”. It is people with an interest in the audio.
Most people don’t care and get a sound bar or a Bose.
The rest are either into it for status or because they like music or because they like gear.
Are you planning on lighting up the tyres with your system?
You probably need the SPL and distance… But we talked about this with the higher voltage power supply.
Either save up, or get the cheap amp. (Both choices can be defended as being rational with ease.)
The A07 does pretty good, but maybe a nice amp is something that You would like better.
Only you can know that.
I have 3 of the A07s, and may get a 4th… but I also have some good amps.
My take, post just a bit less. These online forums get edgy if you post too many times, you gonna get into an argument. We gave you some pretty good advice. Keep the Aiyima and do nothing for the time being, save for an amp with actual power to match your speakers. And we provided some solid options from $420 to over $2k (aspirational I know!) We said you should avoid jumping around and wasting money. Don't go and try to squeeze the Aiyima for more, lest you blow tweeters and actually make a mess of things. I think I tried to point out that a good Class A/B, or Class D, or whatever isn't gonna bring some magic to your system, more power will since what you describe sounds like your little amp can't power your speakers. No surprise, looking at the review of the speakers, it is noted that they are particularly difficult to drive. So there you are. You got your advice but it just seems not enough. You really don't have any steam that should be blow off, you got us all trying to help you and you seem to not really want to listen!!!You know, I must just have to just to blow off some steam! Lol
What?!?!? I recommended an amp that will be awesome with those speakers that costs $420, and you yell @Doodski that we're all gear snobs! We are: not-getting-ripped-off snobs and not-falling-for-the-old-magic-sound-differences trick snobs!!! You're funny!Hardly a thread gear snobs should be wasting their precious time weighing in on.
The best advice I can give you with those two amplifiers and if you are serious in trying to max the performance, is to buy a mini dsp and rebuild your speakers for active mode. It will maybe take some months to get the sound right ( keep one of the speakers passive as a reference ) , but soon you might have some advantages. One is the baffle step compensation that in the active case can be done digitaly before the amplifiers. You will then save about 6 dB in power needed for the bass driver. This compares to having an amplifier of 200 watts instead of 50, so in this case you will not need more power than Aiyima a07. - ofcourse you will need measurement gear If you go there.I read a few threads but couldn’t find anything that addresses my particular needs.
I have a pair of JBL studio530 speakers that are bi-ampable. They’re 6ohm nominal impedance with a sensitivity of 86bB which I’ve heard will sound best powered by an amp/s with more available headroom.
I was using a single Aiyima A07 power amp to drive them and they do sound good (if not a bit bright with the class D amp) but are noticeably quieter than the more sensitive speakers I own with a 4 ohm impedance.
I purchased another A07 and have the following questions:
Would it be possible to run my 2 A07 amps in bridged mono parallel? I’d be using the stock 32v power supplies so as not to overload the op amps.
Or
Do you think it would be better to just bi-amp the JBLs with the A07s?
PS. I’m trying to do this on a budget and can’t really afford a better amp ATM.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!