All right, let's take a look.
This is L/R "best possible" with a typical in-room target curve overlaid on top of it. From the curve, you can see what you are missing. There is very little bass below 75Hz, and you have a lot of treble tilt above 2kHz. Compare your measurement to the curve on the right (taken from
this independent review). Red is on-axis, black is 30deg off-axis. We can see that your speaker loses out a lot above 2kHz. In my
previous post I gave you a list of reasons why your treble might be tilted this way. Please go through that list and make sure it's not due to one of the causes I listed.
I also just noticed that your speaker has a switch that adjusts treble tilt -1.5 / 0 / 1.5dB. Check this setting also.
Yet another cause for treble tilt is listening too far away. High frequencies tend to fall off much faster than low frequencies due to many reasons. I don't know how close "regular", and "closer" are, but you can see that "very close" (green) has noticeably less treble drop-off than the other two measurements.
The step response shows that both speakers have inverted polarity. Please check your cabling.
If we invert your step response and compare it to a
published measurement of your speaker (I have scaled the REW measurement so that it matches the review sample) we can see a funny looking hump at about 2ms which I have circled. This is likely due to your speakers being rear ported, and your speakers are too close to the wall. Consider pulling them out a little bit. Also, we can see that the rise of the step response isn't as nice and sharp as the review sample. There are two distinct peaks meaning that the DSP tuning in your speaker is a little bit off.
The Energy-Time Curve looks quite OK. We use this view to look for reflections. Any early reflection (i.e. < 20ms) which is greater than -15dB to the main sound will have the effect of smearing the main impulse. We can see there are a couple of reflections at 7ms from both L/R speakers which barely reach -10dB. I would say this is "good" but not "excellent".
The IACC (Inter-Aural Cross Correlation) compares how similar the L/R speakers are. "Early" compares how similar the speakers are to each other, and "Late" compares how similar the reflections are. An IACC of 1 means the signals are perfectly identical. A "perfect" IACC has a score of 1 at all frequencies. "Good" is > 0.8, and "bad" is below 0.6. A poor IACC will affect stereo imaging. Here, we can see that your IACC scores are between terrible and bad, especially through the critical frequencies of 125Hz - 2kHz (where the majority of auditory localization is heard). This is likely why your stereo imaging is so poor.
It is possible that you have a very bad pair of speakers which were mismatched out of the factory. Certainly, the step response not matching published specs suggests that something might be off. If you want to investigate this, measure your speakers under free-field conditions (i.e. no room reflections - speakers in the middle of the room if you have a large room, or take the speakers outside). Otherwise, the more likely scenario is that the speakers are poorly set up.
The one measurement that might explain why your speakers sound "dead" was not performed by
this review or
this review, and that is compression testing. These are very small speakers in a very large room. Small speakers have limits - they usually can't go above a certain SPL, and if they do, they start to compress. The inability to produce room-filling SPL, even when speakers are at their limits, will lead to tinny, distorted, and unsatisfying sound. If you want to do this test, it requires a special procedure. Something for another day, perhaps. But you don't really need to do this test, you can just listen. If your speakers don't go loud enough to satisfy you, it's time for new speakers ... simple as that.
