• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

NE5532P vs. LM4562 or ?

olds1959special

Major Contributor
Joined
Apr 5, 2024
Messages
1,549
Likes
791
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Someone told me the LM4562 is the technically superior op-amp, not hype like Sparkos and Muse. A google search indicates this too, and I had one in my stash so I put it in my Fosi P4.

 
Last edited:
In these low-gain applications there is unlikely to be any audible difference. That's the "magic" of op-amps! Low gain circuits (or no-gain buffers) are about the easiest things you can build with op-amps and it's easy to get better-than-hearing sound quality.

There may be a measurable difference.

In high gain circuits (phono preamps or microphone preamps) noise can be an issue because the noise generated internally is highly amplified along with the signal.
 
NE5532 is much easier to build in composite amp architecture, thanks to it's lower GBW.
Combine with TPA6120A2 and you'll get 0.00025% THD+N driving 8 ohm at 2V.
 
The LM4562NA sounded terribly lean and thin. I couldn't listen to it. I put an OPA2132PA in instead and listening to that now. I also have OPA2228P and OPA2134PA that I expect will work. I think I may like this OPA2132PA more than the Sparkos, MUSE02, and definitely more than LM4562NA, though. I may just leave this in for awhile.
 
Last edited:
The LM4562NA sounded terribly lean and thin. I couldn't listen to it. I put an OPA2132PA in instead and listening to that now. I also have OPA2228P and OPA2134PA that I expect will work.
You are fooling yourself again. They are both nearly identical in performance in most applications. In a few, the LM4562 will excel, but not in a typical audio amplifier.

Here is an Elliott Sound Products preamplifier, Project 88. It has a pair of gain stages, non-inverting for the record, the details can be found at the website if interested. It's a good kit preamp, I have built a few projects around it.
1753153023636.png


I built up a borad with sockets so I can swap. More on sockets later.

I have some NE5532, OPA2132, and LM4562 opamps among my stash.

Here is the OPA2132:
1753153154189.png


That's great distortion and noise performance.

Here the performance with a pair of NE5532 replacing the OPA2132 devices:
1753153215099.png


Slightly better noise and distortion than the OPA2132, but the OPA2132 has coloration so far below human perception, you have a better chance of hearing a pin drop a mile away.

Here is the performance with a pair of LM4562:
1753153469460.png


While it has the best Signal to Noise, I think I may need to address the surrounding circuitry in order to get the best performance, you can see some low level hash at -140dB. You can also see some spikes at 17kHz and 19kHz on the LM4562, they also appear to a lesser extent on the NE5532 and even less on the OPA2132. Those are the LED lights in my shop, and the Opamps are each amplifying harmonics to a greater or lesser extent.

Not that any of this matters, I can't hear this, and sorry to say neither can you.

Your situation is different than mine. If your gear is crap, you might get some woeful self-oscillations with high-bandwidth Opamps. NE5532 is one of the safest bets. But I don't think your gear is crap.
If you have been swapping Opamps, you will wear out the socket. If you have been hard on the socket, it is possible you have already worn it to flakiness. Trying to get devices to play with less than a part per million of noise and distortion does require that the amplification stages are really well electrically connected. The reality is, if you really wanted performance, you would look for a manufacturer who avoids the problems and noise introduced by wedging pins into sockets. I would be concerned that at some point you will actually degrade the contacts to the point where the device doesn't work properly. DIYAudio is littered with gear wasted by Opamp swapping. Probably ASR too.

In reality, probably nothing going on, at least I hope so, otherwise you messed up the socket or (better) the pins on some of your Opamps. Swapping Opamps provides no benefit, but does provide an avenue for our imaginations to run wild, and for us to fool ourselves into thinking we heard something, all while wearing out the connections inside of your gear.

edit: fixed mistyped Opamp name
 
Last edited:
I put LM4562 op-amps into my Aiyima A70 mono block amps. I am beginning to have skepticism about op-amp rolling. I just want to know: Can I leave the LM4562 op-amps in the amps or are they degrading the performance over the stock NE5532's?
 
They are probablyney fine to leave. Glad you are ending your op-amp journey, I think many other factors are more likely to change what you're actually hearing...
 
I put LM4562 op-amps into my Aiyima A70 mono block amps. I am beginning to have skepticism about op-amp rolling. I just want to know: Can I leave the LM4562 op-amps in the amps or are they degrading the performance over the stock NE5532's?
Your skepticism is warranted. Neither OpAmp is degrading or enhancing the performance. They are all virtually tied, the I tried to show this earlier:
They are all terrific devices. The differences are tiny. You could drop the NE5532 in one amp, and a LM4562 in the other, and never hear a difference. Nobody would be able to tell. It would just offend your sense of balance knowing that you had different devices in the L and R amps, even if they were electrically and sonically indistinguishable. :cool:
 
I have two pairs of Aiyima A70 amps and I was missing an LM4562NA for one of them, so I found an old NE5532 and I tested it with diode mode on my multimeter between pins 2 and 3 and vice versa and got the same reading, making me think it’s authentic, so I replaced the LM4562NA and then used the NE5532 op-amp amps for the woofers of my speakers. The replacement LM4562NA is coming, so when it comes I’ll try putting them in replacing the NE5532’s, not because I think it will improve anything, but because I want all four amps to be the same and also I’m curious if I’ll perceive a difference.
 
I found an old NE5532 and I tested it with diode mode on my multimeter between pins 2 and 3 and vice versa and got the same reading, making me think it’s authentic
That says absolutely nothing I'm afraid. What you measured is just the drop voltage of the input protection diodes.

In the majority of cases they are as good as identical in performance when it comes to low gain audio amplification so no problem swapping those out.
 
That says absolutely nothing I'm afraid. What you measured is just the drop voltage of the input protection diodes.

In the majority of cases they are as good as identical in performance when it comes to low gain audio amplification so no problem swapping those out.
I’m pretty sure it’s genuine because most of my NE5532’s should be ones I pulled out of new gear over the years. I examined my collection and chose one that looked like most of the others. I also tested the drop voltage of the input protection diodes because I heard that this can help determine if it’s genuine, but this is not 100%.

Anyway I set up my system using all of these op-amps (NE5532 on woofers and LM4562 on highs) and the sound is really good and I don’t want to change anything.
 
That says absolutely nothing I'm afraid. What you measured is just the drop voltage of the input protection diodes.

In the majority of cases they are as good as identical in performance when it comes to low gain audio amplification so no problem swapping those out.
I have an old LM4562NA here that says Philippines on it. I'm not sure if it's genuine. I tested the drop voltage of the input protection diodes and got a slightly different reading from my LM4562NA I got from Digikey, that looks different. I also tested some cheap LM4562NA's I got from Amazon and they did not produce a reading at all, leading me to believe they are fakes.

I ordered some more genuine LM4562NA's from Digikey to use in my amps to replace the NE5532's, although I'm aware it won't make a difference.
 
You're kinda driving yourself nuts with all the op-amp stuff, and the FR tweaking. Just IMO. Maybe time to settle back and just enjoy the music?
 
You're kinda driving yourself nuts with all the op-amp stuff, and the FR tweaking. Just IMO. Maybe time to settle back and just enjoy the music?
For better or worse, I'm pretty sure the tweaking will never end. Eventually the curiosity to try new things takes over. This is psychological but it's just how I am. Gradually, things improve as I learn more. Sometimes I have to take one step back two steps forward. Today I really enjoyed listening to music without playing around with things (a lot) but I'm definitely plugging in the genuine LM4562NA op-amps into my woofer amps when they arrive, just for peace of mind. Dis-assembling and re-assembling the Aiyima A70 amps is really pretty easy.

I mean, I could just listen to music on my phone and enjoy it just fine. But I aim for improvement.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom