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NAD M66 - finally someone makes a decent 2-channel preamp!

front view menu where you can set screens/VU meters, per input: some inputs have more options: for example you can add a VU meter bargraph to the BLUOS cover art. I took to using a rubber tipped stylus for the touchpanel: much better control
 

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2. Does the display "time out" and is switched off when there is no control from the remote? Does it wake up again, when for example the volume control is touched?
I set my M66 to an unused input with no commands or activity for 45 minutes now: the screen has not timed out yet...there is a menu setting for screen time out on/off
 

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Hello Markrubin,

the temporary switching off of the display is deactivated, so it will always stay on.
Many thanks for your efforts here.

Regards
Jo
 
And auto-standby is probably the lowest point, this must be activated so that it switches off after 15 minutes.
At least that's the case with my M33.
 
@pogo:
Thanks for the screenshot of the webinterface and your interesting input. The webinterface looks like the webinterface of my M17V2. For me quite boring cause I won't use BlueOS. I had hoped that NAD had evaluated this part of their system a little bit.

I know that there is some documentation of the RS232 / network protocol on the homepage. But this is simply outdated by far. It was already old when I bought my M17...

And of course there is a way to construct something like a homecinema bypass by manually setting the input volume. NAD allows to set the volume directly via network control so you could bind a volume to every source - but that would only work when using my control system. As soon as someone switches a source on the front panel or (Holy Ghost!) HDMI / c.e.c. decides to change the input you will lose your hearing or you speakers or both. So I would prefer a more bulletproof solution. And the part of compensating 50ms for the main speakers seems critical. Must think about that.

And to be honest: In 2024 it isn't to complicate to implement a homecinema bypass. There is always a lot talk about streaming and BlueOS and Bluetooth but I am more interested in the basics of the preamp and Dirac of course.
Thanx a lot,
Nocko!

P.S.: It seems you live in Germany / Austria / Switzerland but it seems to be by far more polite for the other users here to try to answer in English (or something like that....).
 
@markrubin:
Many thanks for your pictures. Looks a lot like a M33.
Have you sorted out the "display off" problem as suggested by Lüdi or is this a fault of the device?

I know you have a lot better things to do than taking pictures but could you show us what options there are in the source settings? There I would hope for
- a fixed volume setting (for home cinema etc.)
- a variable start volume when selecting another input
- an option if Dirac is enabled or not and so on.

Thank you!
Nocko!
 
this is a screenshot of the GUI for audio setup for the M66
 

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@markrubin:
Many thanks for your pictures. Looks a lot like a M33.
Have you sorted out the "display off" problem as suggested by Lüdi or is this a fault of the device?

I know you have a lot better things to do than taking pictures but could you show us what options there are in the source settings? There I would hope for
- a fixed volume setting (for home cinema etc.)
- a variable start volume when selecting another input
- an option if Dirac is enabled or not and so on.

Thank you!
Nocko!
the display off function operates as intended: no issue
for source settings, there are no more menus besides what was shown but the presets would be useful here: you can setup/select up to 10 presets that allow you to select an input or a playlist, and an option to 'Use current volume'. The remote has 10 preset buttons.
I see no Dirac menu settings at all: I have not setup Dirac.
I also tested the headphone output using Focal wired headphones: when plugged in, the output mutes and the volume automatically changes to last used headphone volume setting: when the plug is removed it reverts to last used volume of source to main output. There are no menu settings for headphones.
 
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For the price they are asking, you really would expect the software to be more reliable. At this point in time, I think the HTP-1 the best option for 2 channel DLBC *as long as your sources are all digital*. It does have analog in, but it’s single ended RCA only.
 
For the price they are asking, you really would expect the software to be more reliable. At this point in time, I think the HTP-1 the best option for 2 channel DLBC *as long as your sources are all digital*. It does have analog in, but it’s single ended RCA only.

IMO, for 2-channel music period HTP-1 is probably the top performing option right now regardless of price. I dislike in principle the "waste" of all that HDMI shit and extra channels, but performance is performance. It's the only box that combines top-flight room correction with really well executed loudness compensation and the ability to apply PEQ prior to room correction. Also, some of its usability flaws (e.g. no auto standby function) can be mitigated because it's so flexible. (HTP-1 has a trigger IN - so one can use the auto-standby feature in WiiM Pro and connect that box's trigger out to HTP-1 trigger in.)

I gotta say though, M66 looks visually stunning, from the typically beautiful NAD M-series casework to the meters. If it's kept out in the open that is a huge selling point. Though if you're not running >2 subs, query if something with similarly high build quality but more compact and a lot cheaper such as Lyngdorf TDAI-1120 makes more sense. (Or NAD's M10, if they ever get their act together and incorporate DLBC to that box as promised when the first version launched years and years ago.) I recently picked an 1120 up for a different system with 2 subs, and for a small system getting music over AirPlay or AppleTV it's just loudness compensation away from being perfect.
 
Why should you do that?
You might want to apply some EQ to your speakers in the midrange and treble based on useful measurements to do so (not in room measurement). Then you can use room correction where it's useful and manual PEQ where it's useful, with the room correction acting on the manually corrected signal.

You might be using passive DIY subwoofers, and the built-in PEQ means you don't need a box. If say your subs are small closed boxes with a nominal F3 of 70Hz (but you have the amp voltage and they have the excursion to play loudly almost 2 octaves down from that) you won't need a separate EQ box.
 

The highlights:
4 sub outs
Dlrac Live Bass Control
No mention of loudness compensation, unfortunately (do NAD AVR/P products generally offer loudness compensation)?

IMO it's on the pricey side, and unless there's current need right now I'd probably wait for Dirac ART to shake out and see what offers that technology. But if you want more than 2 subs (in which case Lyngdorf has a few options) and don't want surround/rear/height channels you won't use, now there's finally an option.

It also bodes well that NAD might finally modernize the room correction in their AVR/P lines, given that this one uses the same MDC things.
Sadly, I'll have to keep on waiting. No amp or pre-amp of mine will ever feature a touch screen. Can't stand the little pricks.
 
another M66 feature of note: the firmware upgrade menu now gives an option for a USB update: this allows a path to revert firmware if necessary:
my M50.2 could only be updated over Ethernet and I recall a faulty firmware update caused an issue (loss of ROON access): it took a special connection via NAD on line support to load firmware to fix it
 
I am unable to get the triggers to work: I connected a mono 2 pin trigger cable from M50.2 out: nothing.
I connected 12 volt trigger direct from RTI XP8 that worked for M50.2: Nothing
 
I am unable to get the triggers to work: I connected a mono 2 pin trigger cable from M50.2 out: nothing.
I connected 12 volt trigger direct from RTI XP8 that worked for M50.2: Nothing
Hey NAD, testing on humans is illegal! Fix your damn firmware immediately!
 
I am unable to get the triggers to work: I connected a mono 2 pin trigger cable from M50.2 out: nothing.
I connected 12 volt trigger direct from RTI XP8 that worked for M50.2: Nothing
Ouch! NOT good! Firmware issue? NAD has been pretty good in solving most trigger issues in the past.
 
Mark, why does NAD limit the Dac output to 24/192 when the Ess 9038PRO DAC can go up to 768 hz ? I have files with 352.8 sampling rate (Carmen Gomes from Sound Liaison).
Even their MDC USB card is throttled down to 24/192.
 
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