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NAD M33 Streaming Amplifier Review

Another question, I have a nad m33 but I try to update with an power amp. The Nad M23 is to expensive for me, now I have found LSA Warp one. HAs anyone experience with NAD M33 and LSA? In the link below the writer says:
  • If the M33 is seen as delicate, sweet, and nuanced, I would say the LSA is forceful, dynamic, and ultra ultra-clean, but without any fatigue or annoying sheen despite being fed from an ESS DAC.

Has anyone experience?


Adding a power amplifier to a m33 will give you nothing because the power amps in the m33 are already state of the art.

Much better results can be had if you invest in a subwoofer and use the dirac live option included in the m33.
 
I have handmade speakers with the saes kit CX 871, Sensitivity: 90 db/2.83V/1M.

The specs of LSA are:
  • Power Output: 150W/ch into 8Ω, 250W/ch into 4Ω
  • Power Supply: 600W switching-mode power supply
  • Amp Modules: Texas Instruments TPA3255 Class D modules
  • Input Types: Balanced (XLR/TRS) and Unbalanced (RCA)
  • Gain: Selectable with DIP switches for different input sensitivities
  • Distortion: <0.0027% THD+N @ 1kHz, 50W into 10Ω
  • Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 115dB
  • Noise Floor: -119dBV
  • Dimensions: 14"W x 3"H x 10"D

Can I conclude that LSA Warp one has no added value with the M33?
Replacing Purify with TI Modules doesnt Sound Like an Update, no. I would keep using the M33 for amplification
 
I have handmade speakers with the saes kit CX 871, Sensitivity: 90 db/2.83V/1M.

The specs of LSA are:
  • Power Output: 150W/ch into 8Ω, 250W/ch into 4Ω
  • Power Supply: 600W switching-mode power supply
  • Amp Modules: Texas Instruments TPA3255 Class D modules
  • Input Types: Balanced (XLR/TRS) and Unbalanced (RCA)
  • Gain: Selectable with DIP switches for different input sensitivities
  • Distortion: <0.0027% THD+N @ 1kHz, 50W into 10Ω
  • Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 115dB
  • Noise Floor: -119dBV
  • Dimensions: 14"W x 3"H x 10"D

Can I conclude that LSA Warp one has no added value with the M33?
Based on the above, keeping the M33 as your amplifier is the better choice. If you don’t already have a subwoofer, that’s where the money should go. Also, have you run Dirac Live yet? Biggest gain in sound quality I got in my room was from Dirac Live.
 
Yes I have Dirac Live. The sound is great, I also get target curves from internet (ASR). The sound from the copied curves is also good. What about the supwoofer, I don`t have. With the seas kit CX 871 a subwoofer is no needed. I play a lot with Dirac live.
 
So my M33 has been broken for months now. I took it to a new NAD representative in the area (there wasn't one before) and they have had it for 3 months so far and could not repair it. They told me recently that they are waiting for Lenbrook to check if what they think is the problem is correct and if that part can be replaced.

I am really dissapointed, I don't know what caused the problem and they seem also not to know. The level of service seems very lacking to me considering the price and that it is supposed to be a "premium" product. I am holding my fingers crossed that it can be repaired, it would seem ridiculous to me that such a device can break like that without explanation and if it can't be repaired I'm not touching NAD ever again.

Sorry for the rant, I'm feeling really dissapointed and somewhat scared
 
After years of frustrating failed attempts to get Dirac working properly with first 1, then 2 and now 3 subwoofers on the NAD M33, I finally achieved a balanced, natural result. I thought it was worth sharing what worked for me.

NAD M33 + Three Subwoofers + Dirac Live full

System mainly stereo listening:
NAD M33 | BluOS 4.12.x | Dirac Live 3.14.1 | Cabasse Murano Alto + 3x Cabasse Santorin 30-500 2 front connected in parallell to sub out 1, next to each speakers + one in the back connected to sub ou 2, 70Hz crossover | REW | UMIK-1 | MacBook Air M3 | Official Apple USB-C to USB-A adapter (this matters, more below)

The room is the hometheater, with a large preference for stereo listening over surround, already sounding decent with some basic acoustic treatment nothing invasive. Hours of serious listening: Jazz, Classical, and whatever else takes my mood.

Quick summary (dedicated listening room with one MLP)

  1. Align subs with REW first, timing, phase, level and note the volume knob positions. I find this did give a better foundation for dirac to work with.
  2. In Dirac's volume calibration screen, reduce sub volume controls until subs roughly match mains, use only volume on subs, not dirac individual volume control
  3. In the same screen, reduce the louder main speaker by the measured difference to help centre the image
  4. Wait for a quiet moment Dirac needs a low noise floor to measure the reduced-level subs, this can be quite difficult in a busy street like where I live, master gain at -40db usually works for me.
  5. Official Apple USB-C adapter with UMIK-1, on Mac I did find out third-party adapters corrupt HF measurements in my case.
  6. 0-degree mic orientation facing speakers
  7. Run Dirac calibration: Single measurement at MLP for focused listening, then maybe add more if not satisfying with only one.
  8. After filter export, return sub volume controls to the REW reference positions
The first calibration using all of these together produced the best result in five years. Correct bass integration, immediately recognisable balanced and natural sound something I had never achieved with Dirac before. On large-scale classical music the stereo image is pinpoint precise, all instruments in tonal balance, and the coherence is simply better than Dirac off which was already quite decent. Don’t touch it anymore ;-)

Dirac off:
Screenshot 2026-03-29 at 20.41.09.png


Dirac on with automatic filter:
Screenshot 2026-03-29 at 20.41.56.png


The frustrations

The image kept drifting left.
Even adding 1–2dB balance correction after calibration never fully fixed it.

With Dirac on, it sounds unengaging. Without Dirac it sounds lively and engaging but the bass is messy. Using Dirac only for bass correction shows a massive gap in the spectrogram between mains and subs where did the drum slam go? Where did the bass go?

The M33's subwoofer level handling in Dirac is just broken in my opinion. Whatever I tried adjusting the filter, disabling delay/gain, tweaking the master output, Dirac consistently crushed the subs relative to the mains. I gave up more than once.

Subs crushed whatever I tried:
Screenshot 2026-03-29 at 20.46.10.png


Disabling delay / gain just makes it worse:
Screenshot 2026-03-29 at 20.48.00.png


What finally worked was not one tip gathered on ASR, it was applying all of them at the same time.

What worked

Starting with a decent sounding room and good speaker/sub placement
as much as possible.

Aligning subs with REW before touching Dirac

Use REW to align the subwoofers to the mains as much as possible: timing, phase, and level. Note the exact position of every volume knob on every sub. This is your reference level for real listening. Do not skip this. I’ve used a wireless sub link for my rear subwoofer, the delay added compared to wired link just made things worse and more difficult to align timing of all subs combined. Back to wired.

Reducing sub volume for Dirac calibration

This is the key workaround for the Dirac / M33's broken sub level handling. Whatever I tried dirac killed the bass, when level matching subs with REW, subs show as 10 db louder in dirac volume matching step in recent versions, very annoying. Bass are killed also when matching sub level in dirac, reducing volume of subs in dirac by 10 db brings even worse results.

Physically turn down the sub volume controls until the subs roughly match the mains level during Dirac's volume calibration screen.

The annoying catch: the room needs to be quiet enough for Dirac to measure the subs at this reduced level. With recent Dirac versions the noise floor requirement with reduce subwoofer volume is frustratingly strict. I had to wait for a day when ambient noise was naturally low in my case

Fixing the image shift

In Dirac's level calibration screen, reduce the level of whichever main speaker measures higher to match the other. This is what finally gave me a stable, centered image possibly combined with a very similar mains speaker response after calibration. It is clearly described in the manual. I wish I had tried it years earlier, I thought adjusting balance would have the same effect.

Step 4 Run Dirac calibration

Nothing special here. Just run it normally, for the first time I did take a REW measurement to see what happened after the first measurement and I was shocked by the result.

Step 5 Return subs to REW reference level

After the Dirac filter is exported and loaded onto the M33, return all sub volume controls to the original REW-aligned positions. The subs are now at the correct listening level with Dirac's correction applied.

Other things that seem to make a real difference

The USB adapter seem to matter


I use a UMIK-1 on Mac. Switching from various third-party USB-C adapters to an official Apple USB-C to USB-A adapter immediately produced consistent, believable high-frequency measurements. Previous sessions with other adapters gave erratic HF results. If your high-frequency REW measurements look inconsistent between sessions and nothing acoustic has changed, check your adapter.

Old measurement with typical high frequency weirdness, sometimes a complete drop from 10k or a raise like below:
Screenshot 2022-10-02 at 18.17.40.png


Microphone orientation: 0 degrees facing the speakers

The recommended 90-degree ceiling position produces slightly lifeless result for me. Switching to 0 degrees facing the speakers gives back some of the lost life in the music. Worth trying both it is easy to switch and re-measure.

Highly controversial: single measurement at MLP

One measurement at the exact listening position gave me the best result I have ever achieved, significantly better than stadard 9+ multi-point calibration attempt over the years. Floor bounce and dips above 100Hz were corrected precisely for the first time.

Specific to Murano alto: Speaker ports open

Running the Muranos with ports open gives a tiny bit more dynamic/ punchy result. More alive. Subs take over the frequency of the port tuning anyway with a 70 HZ crossover.

During my experiments with accoustic pannels or bass traps behind the muranos I did find that it does suck the life away from them.
 
Highly controversial: single measurement at MLP

One measurement at the exact listening position gave me the best result I have ever achieved, significantly better than stadard 9+ multi-point calibration attempt over the years. Floor bounce and dips above 100Hz were corrected precisely for the first time.
Yes, this is indeed highly controversial. My own experience is that applying some PEQ filters to smoothen the spatial average (of three locations) of the frequency response of my two subs prior to running Dirac gave excellent results. For Dirac I used the full set of measurements. After all, there is a reason why basically all room correction software uses spatial averages, why the MMM method exists, etc.
 
After years of frustrating failed attempts to get Dirac working properly with first 1, then 2 and now 3 subwoofers on the NAD M33, I finally achieved a balanced, natural result. I thought it was worth sharing what worked for me.

NAD M33 + Three Subwoofers + Dirac Live full

System mainly stereo listening:
NAD M33 | BluOS 4.12.x | Dirac Live 3.14.1 | Cabasse Murano Alto + 3x Cabasse Santorin 30-500 2 front connected in parallell to sub out 1, next to each speakers + one in the back connected to sub ou 2, 70Hz crossover | REW | UMIK-1 | MacBook Air M3 | Official Apple USB-C to USB-A adapter (this matters, more below)

The room is the hometheater, with a large preference for stereo listening over surround, already sounding decent with some basic acoustic treatment nothing invasive. Hours of serious listening: Jazz, Classical, and whatever else takes my mood.

Quick summary (dedicated listening room with one MLP)

  1. Align subs with REW first, timing, phase, level and note the volume knob positions. I find this did give a better foundation for dirac to work with.
  2. In Dirac's volume calibration screen, reduce sub volume controls until subs roughly match mains, use only volume on subs, not dirac individual volume control
  3. In the same screen, reduce the louder main speaker by the measured difference to help centre the image
  4. Wait for a quiet moment Dirac needs a low noise floor to measure the reduced-level subs, this can be quite difficult in a busy street like where I live, master gain at -40db usually works for me.
  5. Official Apple USB-C adapter with UMIK-1, on Mac I did find out third-party adapters corrupt HF measurements in my case.
  6. 0-degree mic orientation facing speakers
  7. Run Dirac calibration: Single measurement at MLP for focused listening, then maybe add more if not satisfying with only one.
  8. After filter export, return sub volume controls to the REW reference positions
The first calibration using all of these together produced the best result in five years. Correct bass integration, immediately recognisable balanced and natural sound something I had never achieved with Dirac before. On large-scale classical music the stereo image is pinpoint precise, all instruments in tonal balance, and the coherence is simply better than Dirac off which was already quite decent. Don’t touch it anymore ;-)

Dirac off:
View attachment 521155

Dirac on with automatic filter:
View attachment 521153

The frustrations

The image kept drifting left.
Even adding 1–2dB balance correction after calibration never fully fixed it.

With Dirac on, it sounds unengaging. Without Dirac it sounds lively and engaging but the bass is messy. Using Dirac only for bass correction shows a massive gap in the spectrogram between mains and subs where did the drum slam go? Where did the bass go?

The M33's subwoofer level handling in Dirac is just broken in my opinion. Whatever I tried adjusting the filter, disabling delay/gain, tweaking the master output, Dirac consistently crushed the subs relative to the mains. I gave up more than once.

Subs crushed whatever I tried:
View attachment 521157

Disabling delay / gain just makes it worse:
View attachment 521158

What finally worked was not one tip gathered on ASR, it was applying all of them at the same time.

What worked

Starting with a decent sounding room and good speaker/sub placement
as much as possible.

Aligning subs with REW before touching Dirac

Use REW to align the subwoofers to the mains as much as possible: timing, phase, and level. Note the exact position of every volume knob on every sub. This is your reference level for real listening. Do not skip this. I’ve used a wireless sub link for my rear subwoofer, the delay added compared to wired link just made things worse and more difficult to align timing of all subs combined. Back to wired.

Reducing sub volume for Dirac calibration

This is the key workaround for the Dirac / M33's broken sub level handling. Whatever I tried dirac killed the bass, when level matching subs with REW, subs show as 10 db louder in dirac volume matching step in recent versions, very annoying. Bass are killed also when matching sub level in dirac, reducing volume of subs in dirac by 10 db brings even worse results.

Physically turn down the sub volume controls until the subs roughly match the mains level during Dirac's volume calibration screen.

The annoying catch: the room needs to be quiet enough for Dirac to measure the subs at this reduced level. With recent Dirac versions the noise floor requirement with reduce subwoofer volume is frustratingly strict. I had to wait for a day when ambient noise was naturally low in my case

Fixing the image shift

In Dirac's level calibration screen, reduce the level of whichever main speaker measures higher to match the other. This is what finally gave me a stable, centered image possibly combined with a very similar mains speaker response after calibration. It is clearly described in the manual. I wish I had tried it years earlier, I thought adjusting balance would have the same effect.

Step 4 Run Dirac calibration

Nothing special here. Just run it normally, for the first time I did take a REW measurement to see what happened after the first measurement and I was shocked by the result.

Step 5 Return subs to REW reference level

After the Dirac filter is exported and loaded onto the M33, return all sub volume controls to the original REW-aligned positions. The subs are now at the correct listening level with Dirac's correction applied.

Other things that seem to make a real difference

The USB adapter seem to matter


I use a UMIK-1 on Mac. Switching from various third-party USB-C adapters to an official Apple USB-C to USB-A adapter immediately produced consistent, believable high-frequency measurements. Previous sessions with other adapters gave erratic HF results. If your high-frequency REW measurements look inconsistent between sessions and nothing acoustic has changed, check your adapter.

Old measurement with typical high frequency weirdness, sometimes a complete drop from 10k or a raise like below:
View attachment 521159

Microphone orientation: 0 degrees facing the speakers

The recommended 90-degree ceiling position produces slightly lifeless result for me. Switching to 0 degrees facing the speakers gives back some of the lost life in the music. Worth trying both it is easy to switch and re-measure.

Highly controversial: single measurement at MLP

One measurement at the exact listening position gave me the best result I have ever achieved, significantly better than stadard 9+ multi-point calibration attempt over the years. Floor bounce and dips above 100Hz were corrected precisely for the first time.

Specific to Murano alto: Speaker ports open

Running the Muranos with ports open gives a tiny bit more dynamic/ punchy result. More alive. Subs take over the frequency of the port tuning anyway with a 70 HZ crossover.

During my experiments with accoustic pannels or bass traps behind the muranos I did find that it does suck the life away from them.

I think I finally understand why my previous hifi dealer didn't like Dirac. It's sort of baffling to me that we put up with this usability instead of just going for an avr.
 
The link mentions M33 v.2
The press release says that DLBC is available for both m33 v.1 and v.2: “Starting May 19, 2026, Dirac Live Bass Control will be supported on the NAD M10, M10 V2, M10 V3, M33, M33 V2, and C 658.” And Dirac’s website indicates that DLBC is available for purchase for m33 v.1. https://www.dirac.com/products/bass-control

This was a surprise to me and I hope it is for real. NAD’s customer service had advised me last year that “Regrettably, the internal circuit layout of the NAD M33 does not accommodate all the necessary connections for DIRAC Live Bass Control support. Due to the hardware limitations of the M33, the DIRAC Live Bass Control functionality cannot be integrated, even with an MDC upgrade.”
 
I tried it and it does indeed work. I downloaded the latest BluOS and also the latest Dirac Live. As soon as I paid the $299 and activated the license, Bass Control was available.

There appears to be a bug if you're reusing older project files (don't know if the bug is present with new measurements since I didn't have time to test that), if you apply the target curve to both the mains and the subwoofer channels, it appears to double the low frequency output. To rectify this, apply the target curve only to the mains. I measured this with REW and the output is correct this way, even though the graph will show a funky estimated output.

While the measurements don't show a big difference, there's clearly an improvement in some areas of the low frequency range where I previously had dips in the curve. The bass now sounds more full and "weighty". As always with a change in sound, it will take some time to adjust.

@Flak I believe you work for Dirac. I tried searching for a way to submit a bug report, but couldn't find any way to contact support through the app or via the Dirac website. If you want the screen shots of the bug, please let me know.
 
Last edited:
The link mentions M33 v.2
Yeah it's a bit confusing, it mentions only the v.2 up top, but later it says:

AVAILABILITY​


Starting May 19, 2026, Dirac Live Bass Control will be supported on the NAD M10, M10 V2, M10 V3, M33, M33 V2, and C 658. Dirac Live Bass Control requires both BluOS version 4.16.6 (or higher) and a Dirac Live Bass Control license (sold separately).

I would have bet good money that this will never happen ;)
 
I’m still a bit grumpy about NAD’s six year delay in updating the M33 ver. 1’s software to support DLBC, but I’m very happy with the results. DLBC has done a much better job of integrating my SVS 3000 subs with my main speakers than I had been able to achieve using the SVS app and REW. And as an added bonus, I didn’t experience the dreaded “imprecise measurement” error message when running new sets of measurements.
 
Even without taking new measurements and with only two channels and one subwoofer, the extra money was worth it for me. It filled a big null between 100-200Hz where there's a lot of musical information. I can only imagine that it would provide a much greater benefit if I added a second subwoofer. Measurements from REW below using MMM method.


Dirac Live vs Dirac Live Bass Control M33 v1.jpg
 
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