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NAD M10 Streaming Amplifier Review

@iLoveCats Interesting. My speakers are 88, 8Ohm, something I'd consider "normal". Certainly not difficult to drive but not extra sensitive either.

Did you run Dirac and is the software up to date? And this may sound obvious but did you check the safety level in Bluesound app that you don't have a heavy level limiter on?
M10 has rather low sub out voltage and that might be a problem sometimes but otherwise there's plenty of power. Tested here it tops out at 260W@4Ohm which is quite a bit more than Fosis or PA5. But not driven to extremes their target spec and output is close enough.
There's no reason M10 should feel underpowered.
 
@iLoveCats Interesting. My speakers are 88, 8Ohm, something I'd consider "normal". Certainly not difficult to drive but not extra sensitive either.

Did you run Dirac and is the software up to date? And this may sound obvious but did you check the safety level in Bluesound app that you don't have a heavy level limiter on?
M10 has rather low sub out voltage and that might be a problem sometimes but otherwise there's plenty of power. Tested here it tops out at 260W@4Ohm which is quite a bit more than Fosis or PA5. But not driven to extremes their target spec and output is close enough.
There's no reason M10 should feel underpowered.
I've done everything possible with the M10 and helped lots of people with Dirac and gave up when the unit dies. NAD eventually sent me a new one and I in turn sent it to the bedroom. The M10 gain structure is hosed, Dirac makes it worse. I have it in my bedroom for TV volume at night at 41 no dirac. Have to have the volume up in the 70's for normal listening in the big room. I've created whole dirac curves that are +3 and +6 db to try and get some more volume out of it and it's just not good, it's better if you just turn Dirac off. The Fosi ZA3 I have at about 3/4 gain and that matches full gain on the Topping PA5 if I check it with a my multimeter. The V3 mono's should have a similar gain to the ZA3 fully turned up and that would help the M10 tremendously. I won't be doing this experiment for months though as I'm getting ready to move.
 
I still don't quite understand your experience with NAD inbuilt amp. I have medium efficiency speakers and sub and I can drive it louder than my ears can handle with metal and pop. With classical and soundtrack there isn't much reserve left after Dirac but it is just enough for live levels.
Also, Fosis can't have (and I really mean can't, not an opinion) more detail than nCore. Having to adjust eq after changing an amp is not something that should be a thing.
I mean I'm happy it works for you but something is a bit odd here.
The M10 V1 had some issues which I took up with NAD tech support. Eventually after I complained hard enough my thoughts were confirmed that the way they implemented the M10 gain was borked. When the V2 was implemented NAD made a big deal of "updated gain algorithms" whatever that meant, while declaring there was nothing at all wrong with the V1. Long story short there was insufficient signal to wake the sub at normal listening levels and the volume had to be wound up to get a normal listening experience from my speakers. So its not the amps really, its the implementation in the M10 that was later made better, noting that Levinsons new company Daniel Hertz is using nCore amplification in their products.

This was an issue noted by many, the support forum was full of similar observations to mine for NAD/BlueSound products at the time. NAD told me it wouldn't be fixed in the M10 V1 suggesting it was hardware configuration rather than software settings.

The M10 has the option for outboard amplification and I had been looking at the NAD or VTV Eigentacht amps as options. Enter the Fosi V3 which when tested sits right alongside the NAD Eigentacht powered devices in measured performance and at a fraction of the cost, for example around aud $3500 for the C298 which was under consideration. It made perfect sense to me to check it out. For sure the FOSI V3 is not as powerful as the C298 but that's academic for my use case. Lets agree power is about the same as the onboard nCore amps for the sake of the discussion.

On sound quality, M10 has always been very good, especially with Dirac. It was the least expensive way to get on board and obviously the BLuOS environment is just great so no problem there. Now though it requires a different Dirac curve in the same room so something must have changed I guess. I'm using the same calibration sequence for recording tones, same mic and stand. Different DL version though. The top end needed to be wound back compared to previously and the standard NAD curve was used in the end which really chops the high end compared to just the Harmon target previously. I cannot explain why this is, but thats what happened.

The Fosi amps are connected to the line out at the 31db sensitivity level so there is a different experience at the volume control now, but that's not the whole story. The speakers are revealing things not heard before or in a way not heard before from music that's been listened to a lot. Particularly acoustic music where the scrapes on guitar strings hang in the air and so on. If you lived nearby I'd invite you to audition yourself.

The speakers are PSB Imagine Minis on factory wall mounts high up on the wall. They are renowned for being able to resolve a lot of detail and they do. Each amplifier iteration that's been attached to these speakers reveals more as I've plugged in better equipment. Now I have the BluOS experience with Dirac and the whole thing sounds better than before for not much money on the amp update and at least a $3000 saving on plausible alternatives.

So are the nCore amps OK, sure despite the issues in the M10 V1 implementation noted in Amir's review. I think that's the point, the implementation in the M10 has not really let them shine like they should. AMIR notes:

"Performance of the NAD M10 is generally acceptable especially for a multifunction device where we see a lot of fails. Alas issues here and there took away my enthusiasm for it. There is no excuse for poor analog input performance in a nearly $3000 device. Or rather high and variable noise floor."

M10 V1 ranks 86 on the SINAD chart. Not shabby but FOSI is better. Considering the FOSI amps connected outboard, what else provides so much price/performance/value for money?

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I've done everything possible with the M10 and helped lots of people with Dirac and gave up when the unit dies. NAD eventually sent me a new one and I in turn sent it to the bedroom. The M10 gain structure is hosed, Dirac makes it worse. I have it in my bedroom for TV volume at night at 41 no dirac. Have to have the volume up in the 70's for normal listening in the big room. I've created whole dirac curves that are +3 and +6 db to try and get some more volume out of it and it's just not good, it's better if you just turn Dirac off. The Fosi ZA3 I have at about 3/4 gain and that matches full gain on the Topping PA5 if I check it with a my multimeter. The V3 mono's should have a similar gain to the ZA3 fully turned up and that would help the M10 tremendously. I won't be doing this experiment for months though as I'm getting ready to move.
My experience exactly. I had a number of conversations with NAD who eventually sent information confirming what we see, gain is too low and Dirac makes it worse. There is a Dirac hack apparently but I never tried it. And there is a sub hack which makes things better, but still not right.

They implemented "updated gain algorithms" in the V2 so obviously they knew it was a problem. Using the Fosi V3 amps at the 31db gain setting makes the M10 work like it should in my view. And its an inexpensive experiment in any case.
 
The following points/settings should be checked/set if it is too quiet:
1) Set Tone Controls to 0 and deactivate them
2) Set volume limits to maximum
3) Check the input signal via the digital VU meter for full level
4) When using Dirac Live, you should use DL version 3.10.3 or higher and utilize the reserved headroom: Link
 
The M10 V1 had some issues which I took up with NAD tech support. Eventually after I complained hard enough my thoughts were confirmed that the way they implemented the M10 gain was borked. When the V2 was implemented NAD made a big deal of "updated gain algorithms" whatever that meant, while declaring there was nothing at all wrong with the V1. Long story short there was insufficient signal to wake the sub at normal listening levels and the volume had to be wound up to get a normal listening experience from my speakers. ...
This was an issue noted by many, the support forum was full of similar observations to mine for NAD/BlueSound products at the time. NAD told me it wouldn't be fixed in the M10 V1 suggesting it was hardware configuration rather than software settings.
Yes, the sub out voltage is on the low side and some subs don't like to wake.
My Elac sub wakes at normal listening levels. For low volume evening background I need to slide the volume up for a second (literally) or switch the sub always on. However, this has no effect at all on the nCore amp inside, volume levels are just fine.

My point is that it can't be a hardware problem as my v1 is working just fine and tested here its output reached 260W.

Pogo's tips look reasonable. This is a software matter. I'm not saying M10v1 doesn't have problems, there are enough people telling that. I'm saying you should be able to fix them.
 
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Yes, the sub out voltage is on the low side and some subs don't like to wake.
My Elac sub wakes at normal listening levels. For low volume evening background I need to slide the volume up for a second (literally) or switch the sub always on. However, this has no effect at all on the nCore amp inside, volume levels are just fine.

My point is that it can't be a hardware problem as my v1 is working just fine and tested here its output reached 260W.

Pogo's tips look reasonable. This is a software matter. I'm not saying M10v1 doesn't have problems, there are enough people telling that. I'm saying you should be able to fix them.

The following points/settings should be checked/set if it is too quiet:
1) Set Tone Controls to 0 and deactivate them
2) Set volume limits to maximum
3) Check the input signal via the digital VU meter for full level
4) When using Dirac Live, you should use DL version 3.10.3 or higher and utilize the reserved headroom: Link
Not too quiet but the need to wring its neck to get normal listening levels which was never an issue with the amplifiers used with the speakers prior and now not an issue at all with the V3 pair attached.
  • I’m not using external inputs so that’s not an issue.
  • The volume limiting has never been used and likewise tone controls.
  • DL 3.10.3 does not work for me it won’t upload to the M10.
  • I checked out the DL hack, but its not required now since there is balance in the force with the new amps attached.
It’s absolutely the way it’s implemented by NAD. I have had a long conversation with them and that’s what they said it was and supported it with technical information. They rejected it as a software problem which I specifically asked and when I asked if the same "gain algorithm" changes were planned for the V1 as a software update they said it was different hardware so no.

In fact they said the way V1 worked (or did not work) was "as expected", despite volume issues being a hot topic reported by many at the time and across all sorts of BluOS powered devices not just the M10. At one point a failed software change reduced sub gain -15db. They said the reduced sub gain was for Dolby certification, but then fixed it in a subsequent maintenance release. And then they changed the gain algorithms up in the V2 so it did actually work properly and made a big deal out of it. Anyway, sorted now, the Fosi amps are here to stay and it works like it should have out of the box.


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Yes, the sub out voltage is on the low side and some subs don't like to wake.
My Elac sub wakes at normal listening levels. For low volume evening background I need to slide the volume up for a second (literally) or switch the sub always on. However, this has no effect at all on the nCore amp inside, volume levels are just fine.

My point is that it can't be a hardware problem as my v1 is working just fine and tested here its output reached 260W.

Pogo's tips look reasonable. This is a software matter. I'm not saying M10v1 doesn't have problems, there are enough people telling that. I'm saying you should be able to fix them.
If the sub output is low then the main speakers will also be adjusted low by Dirac (See trim levels). Ideally adjust the subwoofer's gain, so that Dirac only has to adjust the levels main speaker by 1-2 db.
 
Not too quiet but the need to wring its neck to get normal listening levels
You must not compare the M10 volume control and the resulting power with ordinary amplifiers ;)
 
If the sub output is low then the main speakers will also be adjusted low by Dirac (See trim levels). Ideally adjust the subwoofer's gain, so that Dirac only has to adjust the levels main speaker by 1-2 db.
I did adjust the sub gain and mains don't play quiet. I leveled everything within couple of dB.
Still, the sub won't wake if I start playing quietly. But it only affects the waking, not volume. Some other sub could be fine waking as is.
 
Not too quiet but the need to wring its neck to get normal listening levels which was never an issue with the amplifiers used with the speakers prior and now not an issue at all with the V3 pair attached.
The control is not related to volume pots of old, it's absolutely fine to turn it to a high number like 75.
It's not an issue. I thought it really didn't give you proper volume no matter what.
 
I did adjust the sub gain and mains don't play quiet. I leveled everything within couple of dB.
Still, the sub won't wake if I start playing quietly. But it only affects the waking, not volume. Some other sub could be fine waking as is.
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Also a known problem of the M10.
 
Which subwoofers cannot handle the 1.1V output?
Btw., the M10 has a trigger output, which I would always use for subwoofers!
Apparently that is why NAD chose to give this unit more than one way to cause the subwoofer t fire up: so that you could choose which way works best for your setup.
I don't get the "well that doesn't work for me" thing when they provide for another way of doing it. So far, it just hurts my brain that people don't just use the way that works for them.
I guess, that since my subwoofers are custom (by me) and they use external amps & my whole system turns on at once (because my wall outlets turn on at once when I hit the switch), I don't have a good grasp of this issue.
 
I have a NAD powered sub. It’s a PSB which is a sister company of NAD and collocated with NAD and Bluesound. They even share the same service desk, I had the same people answering questions about the sub for PSB and the M10 for NAD.

With such close ties you might imagine it would work with the M10 perfectly and yet it does not. It has no 12v trigger for a start. And just like all sorts of other brands of subs it does not work with the M10. As I said this was made worse by a BluOS issue. Meanwhile never had an issue with that sub and anything else it was ever connected to.

I like my M10 but what a whole bunch of faff to make it work as it should have out of the box. And not just me but a whole lot of people as well.
 
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Sorry for the terrible picture. The solution offered by. NAD was to just use the outputs on the M10. This defeats the onboard sub crossover and then where would I connect the outboard amps. You can see the Y connector. This was enough to improve the startup sensitivity.

I’m ok with all the workarounds now, it’s fine. But none of this should have been necessary and they did fix it in the V2.
 
I don't understand. Sub out(s) defeat the sub crossover as they are supposed to. Pre-outs are for outboard amps.

Y-connector from sub out, ok, I might try that. The problem is not big but I do agree that it's a design flaw.
 
I don't understand. Sub out(s) defeat the sub crossover as they are supposed to. Pre-outs are for outboard amps.

Y-connector from sub out, ok, I might try that. The problem is not big but I do agree that it's a design flaw.
Y connector from the sub out helped in my case.
 
From NAD back in the day. Its not a problem even though many people had a problem, so we fixed it anyway.

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