NAD C298 Stereo Amplifier Review

[Alexx]

Sorry but on some technical terms the translator doesn't help me much.

@Kal Rubinson
What do you mean by split input Nad? Should I split the RCA output of the Wiim ultra to send one to the Nad and the other to the subwoofer?
Regarding the RCA output of the Nad I mean if it is variable, that is, increasing the volume of the preamplifier (specifically the Wiim) also increases the output signal from the RCA plugs of the Nad? the manual at point 5 calls them "Line Out".

@nothingman
Exactly I mean if the line-out of the Nad has an output that varies with the volume adjustment, so if I increase the volume of the preamplifier, consequently the signal on the line out of the Nad also increases, and consequently the volume of the subwoofer connected to the line out of the Nad also increases.

I hope the translator didn't get confused.

 

[Angsty]

The C298 manual says that you can use the line-out RCA output to daisy-chain multiple amplifiers to add more speakers - that would include a powered subwoofer.

The voltage output of that pair of RCA jacks would vary with the input signal voltage. The volume control from the Wiim would change the volume of the main speakers connected to the C298s speaker terminal and the volume of any subwoofer attached via the line out jacks.

 

[Kal Rubinson]

What do you mean by split input Nad? Should I split the RCA output of the Wiim ultra to send one to the Nad and the other to the subwoofer?

That is exactly what I am saying. In this simple scenario, you would have only the sub's limited tools for adjustment and integration.
OTOH, instead of a passive splitter, you could insert some sort of bass management/DSP/EQ here that would enable you to optimize the integration of sub and speakers. For example: miniDSP 2x4 HD.

 

[Alexx]

Great guys thanks a lot I finally understood!!!

Ok so in this way the only adjustment would be via Xover of the Subwoofer, at this point it would be better to have the subwoofer managed by the Wiim Ultra until I use it as a preamplifcator, if then one day I change it we will think about it later.

Thanks again very kind.

 

[CabbageEars]

Good performance, good price, worthless reliability, sadly. If you buy them new, sell after 5 years no matter what.

6 year warranty in the UK.

 

[Ajaxlegends]

I've tried searching for the answer on the site but can't find it, so figured I'd ask. I just got a NAD C658 to go with the C298 and was wondering what the best gain setting would be with this setup? I always had the C298 on fixed, but I believe the C658 is 4.5V via balanced (could be wrong) so maybe I should try variable with a certain setting?

 

[Timcognito]

I've tried searching for the answer on the site but can't find it, so figured I'd ask. I just got a NAD C658 to go with the C298 and was wondering what the best gain setting would be with this setup? I always had the C298 on fixed, but I believe the C658 is 4.5V via balanced (could be wrong) so maybe I should try variable with a certain setting?

Try here https://support.nadelectronics.com/hc/en-us

 

[Fa11en.Universe]

Hello
Recently, I've managed to sell my old 2008s NAD 375BEE and now I need to replace it.
What power amp should I get.
I have Heco celan 903 and Canton RC-L, 4 Ohm speakers, 93dB and 87dB.
Also, my setup Wiim Ultra - coax - DAC/PREAMP Teac UD 507.
Need an amp to handle 300W speakers not simultaneously of course.

I'm considering NAD 298 for a long time, but not sure it will suit me after 375Bee A/B amp.
Also I'm looking at Rotel 1582 power amp.
So maybe somebody have made this transition from a/b to d class?
I want to keep NAD's classic heavy bass sound but add some clarity and defection.

Rotel 1582 (200/400W 8/4Ohm) is little bit cheaper than NAD c298, so this choosing drives me crazy.

 

[xray]

I'm considering NAD 298 for a long time, but not sure it will suit me after 375Bee A/B amp.

Can you elaborate on that? What aspects of the NAD 298 do you consider unsuitable?

 

[TimF]

I have had Rotel amps and the NAD 298 and both are well made and more than adequate. This is like choosing between a number of well made 4 cylinder car engines. We can make ourselves sick when we get caught up in chasing the ideal or deciding the better among the good.

 

[EJ3]

I have had Rotel amps and the NAD 298 and both are well made and more than adequate. This is like choosing between a number of well made 4 cylinder car engines. We can make ourselves sick when we get caught up in chasing the ideal or deciding the better among the good.

And again: there is personal preferences: one person says that the one that puts out the most power per litre is the best.
Another person says that the one that can go 1/2 a million miles with just normal maintenance is the best.
And another says "my 6800 pound Airstream trailer cannot be pulled by a 4 cylinder because the 4 cylinder will not last or get me up a hill with my load".

 

[Mean & Green]

Hello
Recently, I've managed to sell my old 2008s NAD 375BEE and now I need to replace it.
What power amp should I get.
I have Heco celan 903 and Canton RC-L, 4 Ohm speakers, 93dB and 87dB.
Also, my setup Wiim Ultra - coax - DAC/PREAMP Teac UD 507.
Need an amp to handle 300W speakers not simultaneously of course.

I'm considering NAD 298 for a long time, but not sure it will suit me after 375Bee A/B amp.
Also I'm looking at Rotel 1582 power amp.
So maybe somebody have made this transition from a/b to d class?
I want to keep NAD's classic heavy bass sound but add some clarity and defection.

Rotel 1582 (200/400W 8/4Ohm) is little bit cheaper than NAD c298, so this choosing drives me crazy.

Why did you sell your C375 BEE?

Not sure what you’re trying to achieve TBH. There is no such thing as ‘NAD’s classic heavy bass’ NAD amps do not add bass or alter the frequency response at all.

 

[Doodski]

Hello
Recently, I've managed to sell my old 2008s NAD 375BEE and now I need to replace it.
What power amp should I get.
I have Heco celan 903 and Canton RC-L, 4 Ohm speakers, 93dB and 87dB.
Also, my setup Wiim Ultra - coax - DAC/PREAMP Teac UD 507.
Need an amp to handle 300W speakers not simultaneously of course.

I'm considering NAD 298 for a long time, but not sure it will suit me after 375Bee A/B amp.
Also I'm looking at Rotel 1582 power amp.
So maybe somebody have made this transition from a/b to d class?
I want to keep NAD's classic heavy bass sound but add some clarity and defection.

Rotel 1582 (200/400W 8/4Ohm) is little bit cheaper than NAD c298, so this choosing drives me crazy.

There is no such thing as NAD heavy bass. That is a fiction. I sold NAD for many years, handled it everyday, all the models and then I returned to study, became an electronic technician and had a NAD service contract for warranty repair service and I handled NAD everyday repairing the stuff. NAD does not have a "Heavy bass." That is a dreamy idea not based on reality.

 

[Fa11en.Universe]

Why did you sell your C375 BEE?

Not sure what you’re trying to achieve TBH. There is no such thing as ‘NAD’s classic heavy bass’ NAD amps do not add bass or alter the frequency response at all.

My version was 2008 year rev, it's already have solid transformer buzz, malfunction buttons. But mostly, I want to update my system.
I've tried in my system, Marantz PM 13MK KI, PM16, Denon PMA2000 IVR and none of them couldn't produce so much rumble and low frequency, as NAD did. So I just trust my ears.

 

[Doodski]

My version was 2008 year rev, it's already have solid transformer buzz, malfunction buttons. But mostly, I want to update my system.
I've tried in my system, Marantz PM 13MK KI, PM16, Denon PMA2000 IVR and none of them couldn't produce so much rumble and low frequency, as NAD did. So I just trust my ears.

Generally... and.. I mean generally speaking if an amp has more thumpy bass and more better bass it is caused by having a lot more power output and simultaneously the volume output being at a elevated level. I have done a lot of comparing integrated amps/receivers etc into the many hundreds of amp models on a switchbox and it can happen that a much more powerful amp if the bass is boosted a bit and maybe the loudness control is also used too that the bass will be better on the much more powerful amp. This requires a lot more power. Not like ~20 Watts more per channel. I am talking like double or triple the power at least when the base smaller amp has ~40 Watts per channel or so to really hear it.

 

[MoreWatts]

No need to overthink the purchase of Purifi/Hypex amplifiers. Hypex usually provide more watts per dollar, and are usually available in higher overall wattages. Purifi run a bit more efficient. Determine what wattage you need and go from there.

The NAD C298 has some features that are not usually available from the DTC assemblers:

• It has both RCA and XLR inputs, so no need for custom cables or adapters. It can reach its full power via RCA inputs, unlike some pro amps that use Hypex/Purifi/other class D modules, which might need XLR to reach full power.
• As mentioned above, the RCA ouputs can be used to drive a subwoofer, or other devices. The output level can be controlled by the preamp that feeds the C298.
• It has variable gain, which can be handy for use with very efficient speakers that don't need the C298s full power, or for use with preamplifiers that have a very high output voltage.
• It can be bridged and run as a mono amplifier. Two C298s would provide enough power (625 watts into 8R) for almost any speaker available.
• It has full CE/UL safety/compliance certifications, which are common on electronics sold through traditional retailers, but less common with DTC assemblers.

These features, and the tradtional retail channel, add costs. I had to do a quick amp purchase, and decided the CE/UL certifications were kinda important, then. After ASR perusals, that's probably not ultra-important, now. Plus, the DTC assemblers products have matured quite a bit, since then.

It is, however, a big, ugly, black, empty, box. They use the same case for their 8-channel model, which is stuffed-full.

I've run a C298 for 16 hours daily, for 3 years. About every 9 months, one channel does not wake-up properly from the standby mode, but a quick power cycle fixes that. I think that is a feature of standby modes, in general, and not necessarily a NAD issue.

The new MSRP in the USA is ~$3K, which is quite a bit more than most DTC assemblers. However, when you compare to other amps sold through tradtional retailers, its price is competetive.

Just my 2 cents from a satisfied C298 user. See my signature for associated equipment.

 

[pinger]

My version was 2008 year rev, it's already have solid transformer buzz, malfunction buttons. But mostly, I want to update my system.
I've tried in my system, Marantz PM 13MK KI, PM16, Denon PMA2000 IVR and none of them couldn't produce so much rumble and low frequency, as NAD did. So I just trust my ears.

Dont kid yourself. ALL solid state amps when functioning properly and not overloaded sound the same.

 

[mike70]

Dont kid yourself. ALL solid state amps when functioning properly and not overloaded sound the same.

What? A thick brushed aluminum frontal panel, adamantium capacitors and 500 usd internal cable isn't a difference in sound?

The meteorite is coming, we are going to become extinct (LOL)