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@Jimbob54
Sorry.
Every now and then the translator sends the translation in the original language (Italian).
I ask for advice (tell me if it is better to open a new discussion, I see here it is only opened for the 399).
Obviously I have to buy a new amplifier, list:
Nad 399
Nad M10-V3
Cambridge Evo 150
I had one of Nad 3 years ago, it did not turn on the subwoofer well (I had to turn the volume up a lot) when I lowered the volume the subwoofer turned off, it made BUMPs when I changed source and when I turned the device on and off.... has it been solved? It is not a reason not to buy them, but certainly an unpleasant and boring thing.
M10-V3 I read has the same "BUMP" problems as the 399, confirmed?
M10-V3 may have little power to comfortably manage the change of different speakers (later I would like to buy Kef R3 Meta) and I do not want to find myself with management problems after I spent 2500 euros, now I have Emit20.
Cambridge Evo 150 I can't find any review and test, I think it doesn't have DIRAC but it has good power, and many functions... quality?
Budget 2400 euros.
Thanks in advance.
Sorry.
Every now and then the translator sends the translation in the original language (Italian).
I ask for advice (tell me if it is better to open a new discussion, I see here it is only opened for the 399).
Obviously I have to buy a new amplifier, list:
Nad 399
Nad M10-V3
Cambridge Evo 150
I had one of Nad 3 years ago, it did not turn on the subwoofer well (I had to turn the volume up a lot) when I lowered the volume the subwoofer turned off, it made BUMPs when I changed source and when I turned the device on and off.... has it been solved? It is not a reason not to buy them, but certainly an unpleasant and boring thing.
M10-V3 I read has the same "BUMP" problems as the 399, confirmed?
M10-V3 may have little power to comfortably manage the change of different speakers (later I would like to buy Kef R3 Meta) and I do not want to find myself with management problems after I spent 2500 euros, now I have Emit20.
Cambridge Evo 150 I can't find any review and test, I think it doesn't have DIRAC but it has good power, and many functions... quality?
Budget 2400 euros.
Thanks in advance.
The subwoofer bumps are still an issue, among basically everything else. The auto/on issue is basically inherent to subs, not an issue specific to the amp. Make sure to use a proper 75ohm cable, turn the gain down the sub itself and up the sub gain in the amp. That should minimize the subwoofer turning down due to not receiver any signal.
I have R3's hooked up to the C339 and have the limiter set on ± 60%. Mind you my room is massive. The power of the M10 should be plenty for the R3's.
I'd look at the Lyngdorf TDAI 1120, has streaming, room-correction, great build & sound quality, reasonable amount of inputs. Would be my pick if only it had either more power or separate sub and pre outs. However with a small or medium sized room, it should be powerful enough for the R3's.
However if I currently was in need of an amplifier, had 2.5k cash in hand, I'd buy a used pre/ power combo. Mini-DSP in between and be done. I really shot myself in the foot with the NAD C399, it's easy to operate and all in one. Going back to separates and a stack of equipment is a no from the spouse.
Thank you very much for the information.
From some reviews and tests found on Youtube the Nad M10 V2 does not seem to be the best (they say it is decidedly inferior to Cambridge Evo150) it is true that it is the "old" V2 model but the final stage and various components they say are the same as the new V3 model.
M10-V3 ostentatiously the same price as the C399, with a sacrifice to the aesthetic part that M10 is beautiful! but I would choose the Nad 399, so much more current.
Lyngdorf TDAI-1120? same thought as you, missing Sub output and above all little power.
System with various components, I can not, or rather I could also do it, but I do not have a dedicated place for music and put on different devices, cable, plugs etc. they would be quite complicated to manage, otherwise I would have taken the new Audiolab 9000Q and 9000P series
Very complex and broad topic, also due to dozens of different brands and models that do not help us choose, but as far as possible I would not move from Nad399 or Cambridge evo 150....they are both within the budget, they are practical and functional, you just have to understand which of the two is better sounding.
Thank you very much.
From some reviews and tests found on Youtube the Nad M10 V2 does not seem to be the best (they say it is decidedly inferior to Cambridge Evo150) it is true that it is the "old" V2 model but the final stage and various components they say are the same as the new V3 model.
M10-V3 ostentatiously the same price as the C399, with a sacrifice to the aesthetic part that M10 is beautiful! but I would choose the Nad 399, so much more current.
Lyngdorf TDAI-1120? same thought as you, missing Sub output and above all little power.
System with various components, I can not, or rather I could also do it, but I do not have a dedicated place for music and put on different devices, cable, plugs etc. they would be quite complicated to manage, otherwise I would have taken the new Audiolab 9000Q and 9000P series
Very complex and broad topic, also due to dozens of different brands and models that do not help us choose, but as far as possible I would not move from Nad399 or Cambridge evo 150....they are both within the budget, they are practical and functional, you just have to understand which of the two is better sounding.
Thank you very much.
When operating within they're designed specifications, modern amps all sound 98% the same. If one does not, it's broken.
I am about to order the Nad 399.
A question for those who have the additional module for the Nad.
With the bluos module can I also equalize the audio manually? (as I do with the Wiim Ultra) and then save the setting.
Basically skipping the automatic Dirac configuration.
If possible how many bands do I have to equalize?
Once saved the equalization is this active on every input exactly?
Thanks a lot for the help.
A question for those who have the additional module for the Nad.
With the bluos module can I also equalize the audio manually? (as I do with the Wiim Ultra) and then save the setting.
Basically skipping the automatic Dirac configuration.
If possible how many bands do I have to equalize?
Once saved the equalization is this active on every input exactly?
Thanks a lot for the help.
@Darokkk
Thank you very much.
It is very useful to be able to do it manually.
But in manual mode is the equalizer Graphic (much simpler) or Parametric? I think parametric is too complicated.
I attach the photos.
Basically if I increase or decrease the equalizer parameters I hear the difference in the low, medium and high frequencies in real time and then save it ( as it happens on the Wiim Ultra ).
Thanks for the help.
Thank you very much.
It is very useful to be able to do it manually.
But in manual mode is the equalizer Graphic (much simpler) or Parametric? I think parametric is too complicated.
I attach the photos.
Basically if I increase or decrease the equalizer parameters I hear the difference in the low, medium and high frequencies in real time and then save it ( as it happens on the Wiim Ultra ).
Thanks for the help.
Attachments
Last edited:
Ok I saw but it is a complicated procedure...
That is, it seems that it must be done only with a microphone and in automatic mode, subsequently you can increase or decrease only the mids and lows (I don't understand why you can't intervene on the individual frequencies) the response of the changes is not in real time, but you must first save the relative curves, then listen to them and if you don't like them repeat the procedure until you find the pleasant sound.......if it is really like that it is a very bizarre system.
I have to find someone who has the Nad with the module and get me confirmation or more information.
Thank you very much.
That is, it seems that it must be done only with a microphone and in automatic mode, subsequently you can increase or decrease only the mids and lows (I don't understand why you can't intervene on the individual frequencies) the response of the changes is not in real time, but you must first save the relative curves, then listen to them and if you don't like them repeat the procedure until you find the pleasant sound.......if it is really like that it is a very bizarre system.
I have to find someone who has the Nad with the module and get me confirmation or more information.
Thank you very much.
Hello.
Do you know if without a wifi connection or network cable connected the bluos module for environmental equalization works equally, or is it tied to a continuous connection to the network? (I'm not talking about the streamer function which obviously requires a connection for that).
Thank you very much.
Do you know if without a wifi connection or network cable connected the bluos module for environmental equalization works equally, or is it tied to a continuous connection to the network? (I'm not talking about the streamer function which obviously requires a connection for that).
Thank you very much.
Narnian
Active Member
After working with NAD the last few months running tests on my system and sending them logs they have confirmed they were able to duplicate the subwoofer “thump” issue:
After some thorough testing and following discussions with our Engineering team regarding this subwoofer thump issue, they have replicated the issue in our labs. Our Engineering team will conduct further investigation and provide a fix for this issue in an upcoming firmware update.
During my testing the thump becomes pronounced above a 60Hz crossover and diminishes as I lower it. I was able to virtually eliminate it from my system by setting my sub crossover at 50Hz (Which works for me since my speakers are flat down to just below 40Hz and 50Hz was the recommendation for my speakers from SVS).
So there is hope.
After some thorough testing and following discussions with our Engineering team regarding this subwoofer thump issue, they have replicated the issue in our labs. Our Engineering team will conduct further investigation and provide a fix for this issue in an upcoming firmware update.
During my testing the thump becomes pronounced above a 60Hz crossover and diminishes as I lower it. I was able to virtually eliminate it from my system by setting my sub crossover at 50Hz (Which works for me since my speakers are flat down to just below 40Hz and 50Hz was the recommendation for my speakers from SVS).
So there is hope.
