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My soldering iron died today...

devinplombier

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2024
Messages
53
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Location
Pacific Northwest
... and I need a new one.

I want to move up to a station. Recommendations are sought. Narrowing things down:
- I mostly work on through-hole PCB repairs. Some PCBs are ultra-thick and double-sided and in various states of deterioration
- Some point-to-point (crossovers)
- Some cable and connector type work
- SMC is not a priority but should be able to handle the basic stuff

My old iron (a generic 60W from Amazon) did fine with regular solder joints but did not like joints that require a lot of heat (cables, binding posts, ground planes, mains connections, etc.). The tip would cool off so I'd have to turn the heat way up, and some PCBs don't like a lot of heat. I don't like to work like that.

So I think I want an active tip station. Here are a couple that caught my eye, in no particular order:
- PACE ADS200 (other than I would prefer to spend less than $300, it's just what I want :))
- Hakko FX951 Aliexpress clones

Also
- KSGER T12 (it's a looker!)
- There's a Hakko FX888D for sale locally (no active tip though)
- Or...

Guys, any thoughts about any of the above are welcome. Thanks!
 
I used to operate with 1 thermally controlled base unit, 2 different sized wands and several assorted tips. One small wattage wand for SMD and a larger wattage wand for the heavier stuff. I am PACE certified and found the PACE gear to be nice. I found Weller irons to burn through tips and I never used acid flux. For heavy wires I used a separate high capacity soldering iron.
 
... and I need a new one.

I want to move up to a station. Recommendations are sought. Narrowing things down:
- I mostly work on through-hole PCB repairs. Some PCBs are ultra-thick and double-sided and in various states of deterioration
- Some point-to-point (crossovers)
- Some cable and connector type work
- SMC is not a priority but should be able to handle the basic stuff

My old iron (a generic 60W from Amazon) did fine with regular solder joints but did not like joints that require a lot of heat (cables, binding posts, ground planes, mains connections, etc.). The tip would cool off so I'd have to turn the heat way up, and some PCBs don't like a lot of heat. I don't like to work like that.

So I think I want an active tip station. Here are a couple that caught my eye, in no particular order:
- PACE ADS200 (other than I would prefer to spend less than $300, it's just what I want :))
- Hakko FX951 Aliexpress clones

Also
- KSGER T12 (it's a looker!)
- There's a Hakko FX888D for sale locally (no active tip though)
- Or...

Guys, any thoughts about any of the above are welcome. Thanks!
After messing around with cheap irons I got a HAKKO FX-888D and am very happy with it for a wide range of tasks. It is not active tip but by using the right tip and temp for the job I have not had any issues. Any you are looking at are a big improvement over what you had. I don't have experience with clones but I have never been disappointed with a real name brand high quality tool.
 
I wish my old iron would die. The cable is still stiff after a decade which is my biggest complaint but I don't use it enough anymore to justify replacing it.
 
My Hakko station has been going strong for 25 years; the only minor hiccup is that it has outlasted the local retailer of replacement tips.

Edit: I also keep a bakelite Weller gun for heavy work. The old ones are durable as heck, but are often mistaken for broken if the nuts securing the tip are not clean and tight.
 
Last edited:
... and I need a new one.

I want to move up to a station. Recommendations are sought. Narrowing things down:
- I mostly work on through-hole PCB repairs. Some PCBs are ultra-thick and double-sided and in various states of deterioration
- Some point-to-point (crossovers)
- Some cable and connector type work
- SMC is not a priority but should be able to handle the basic stuff

My old iron (a generic 60W from Amazon) did fine with regular solder joints but did not like joints that require a lot of heat (cables, binding posts, ground planes, mains connections, etc.). The tip would cool off so I'd have to turn the heat way up, and some PCBs don't like a lot of heat. I don't like to work like that.

So I think I want an active tip station. Here are a couple that caught my eye, in no particular order:
- PACE ADS200 (other than I would prefer to spend less than $300, it's just what I want :))
- Hakko FX951 Aliexpress clones

Also
- KSGER T12 (it's a looker!)
- There's a Hakko FX888D for sale locally (no active tip though)
- Or...

Guys, any thoughts about any of the above are welcome. Thanks!
Did it die of lead poisoning?
 
Thanks, I should stock up. Did you ever visit a Fry's Electronics during their heyday? They were the size of a Home Depot, filled with everything from individual transistors to telescopes to home appliances.
Yep there was one about 3 miles from my house, great fun during their heyday. The store is now a Costco business center store.
 
I used to operate with 1 thermally controlled base unit, 2 different sized wands and several assorted tips. One small wattage wand for SMD and a larger wattage wand for the heavier stuff. I am PACE certified and found the PACE gear to be nice. I found Weller irons to burn through tips and I never used acid flux. For heavy wires I used a separate high capacity soldering iron.
I use a propane torch when the wires are 4 gauge & larger (and fabricate my own connectors using soft copper pipe).
 
I use a propane torch when the wires are 4 gauge & larger (and fabricate my own connectors using soft copper pipe).
That's because you are hardercore...LoL.
Professionally I used these for stuff where I had no access to main power to run a soldering iron which was often. The butane presented issues due to cold temps sometimes where I was working.
 
My Hakko station has been going strong for 25 years; the only minor hiccup is that it has outlasted the local retailer of replacement tips.

Edit: I also keep a bakelite Weller gun for heavy work. The old ones are durable as heck, but are often mistaken for broken if the nuts securing the tip are not clean and tight.
I use this Weller 8100U for heavy-duty work. It’s over twenty years old and on its fourth tip. The tips tend to crack at the very end after some use.
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My primary electronics soldering iron, a cheap one I had for 30 years, died last year. I replaced it with another budget option from Amazon, and it has performed flawlessly -heats up quickly and remembers the last temperature setting. A lot lighter than my old one as well.

1739511805069.png
 
I also used one of these extensively for setting critical grounds to sheet metal.
 
Out of respect for OP’s dearly departed soldering iron, I propose a moment of silence -may its heating element rest in peace.

.

.

.
 
I also used one of these extensively for setting critical grounds to sheet metal.
That's a beast!
 
I have a propane torch I use to sweat copper. I think it would work just fine on larger gauge cables and connectors, though I haven't done it yet
 
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