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Multi-channel Amp,Which one you would like to own?

Which one you would like to own?


  • Total voters
    53
  • Poll closed .
I chose the PAM 154.

I selected the PAM 154 for its moderate output, intended primarily for desktop use.

My main speakers use banana plugs on both ends, but

I am unsure how to modify the PBTL banana plugs included with the amplifier.

If anyone has attempted a PBTL connection using these banana plugs, could you please upload a photo of the connection? ;)

I am currently very confused and unable to understand the process.:facepalm:
I don’t understand what you’re wondering about. There is no such thing as a PBTL banana plug.

The PAM154 provides four channels. The input to each channel can be either via an XLR (i.e., balanced) connection or an RCA (i.e., single-ended) connection. Each channel presents an output to a single speaker via a pair of banana jacks (red & black).

Each of your speakers should present a pair of connectors (typically red & black) to be connected to the amp.

The banana plugs from your speakers ought to fit the RCA jacks on the PAM154. If they don’t, might they be RCA connectors instead?
 
I don’t understand what you’re wondering about. There is no such thing as a PBTL banana plug.

The PAM154 provides four channels. The input to each channel can be either via an XLR (i.e., balanced) connection or an RCA (i.e., single-ended) connection. Each channel presents an output to a single speaker via a pair of banana jacks (red & black).

Each of your speakers should present a pair of connectors (typically red & black) to be connected to the amp.

The banana plugs from your speakers ought to fit the RCA jacks on the PAM154. If they don’t, might they be RCA connectors instead?

Yes, thank you for your answer. :p

I have connected it properly like this.

Mono + Mono = Stereo
 

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Yes, thank you for your answer. :p

I have connected it properly like this.

Mono + Mono = Stereo

@Sensation
So finally looks like you are all set.

But just to summarize:
PBTL is configuration on each of your amplifier's card for its max. output for single channel and does not need any further internal changes. You got PAM154 which has 4 cards for 4 channels or speakers.
I believe 3e omitted standard speaker binding post or connectors to keep the size smaller for packaging, and so the banana plugs are provided for speaker wire connections.

Congrats for the purchase, do share some feedback on owner's thread if possible.
 
@Sensation
자, 이제 모든 준비가 끝난 것 같네요.

요약하자면 다음과 같습니다.
PBTL은 각 앰프 카드에서 단일 채널 최대 출력을 설정하는 구성으로, 추가적인 내부 변경이 필요하지 않습니다. 귀하의 PAM154는 4개의 채널 또는 스피커를 위한 4개의 카드를 가지고 있습니다.
제 생각에는 3e는 포장 크기를 줄이기 위해 표준 스피커 바인딩 포스트나 커넥터를 생략했고, 그래서 스피커 선 연결용으로 바나나 플러그를 제공하는 것 같습니다.

구매 축하드립니다! 가능하시다면 소유자 게시판에 사용 후기를 남겨주시면 감사하겠습니다.
Yes, thank you. I still need a testing period.

I plan to write a review later. ^^
 
The choice of PBTL design is an internal engineering choice by 3e. Nothing to do with the user configuration, but "hard coded" baked into each module.

You cannot bridge multiple channels / modules to try to get more power, each output must go to a separate speaker.

In case that's what you were thinking, despite your statement that you intentionally wanted less power
 
@3eaudio If the cost would be the same, which one would you buy? The PAM252 or the A7 with the 48V 10A power supply?
depends on your personal preferences: build-in power supply or external power supply.
 
@3eaudio If the cost would be the same, which one would you buy? The PAM252 or the A7 with the 48V 10A power supply?
A7 is much smaller and you can hide the power supply somewhere. I bought the PM252 due to the integrated supply. If you need a volume control on the Amp, only A7 provides. On the other hand, PM252 has fully separated Amp modules - dual mono in one casing with integrated power. I would like 2 hear A7 vs. PM252 side by side. If you don't need that much power maybe you'll like to save some money with A5 or PM152
 
I doubt there will be audible differences between the respective deployments.

Size, preference / convenience of PSU and volume knob are I think will be the only audible differentiators.

Pending Amir's test results of course
 
Google says

10kΩ for unbalanced RCA and 20kΩ for balanced XLR/TRS

but no source, I suspect that's from A7

Pending an official answer, my WAG is "comparable to that"

He also pretty reliably answers Q's at the AliExpress Store
 
Google says

10kΩ for unbalanced RCA and 20kΩ for balanced XLR/TRS

but no source, I suspect that's from A7

Pending an official answer, my WAG is "comparable to that"

He also pretty reliably answers Q's at the AliExpress Store
I found the same and came to the same conclusion. If these are same tech but in different packaging then is the same.
 
What's the finish on this, powercoat?
At first blush it looks like anodizing to me but 3eAudio said there's no silver option because it's not aluminum, so no anodizing.
If it is powder coat, it's much finer than what Geshelli put on my Torc (looks like they sprayed nonskid on it)
 
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A7 is much smaller and you can hide the power supply somewhere. I bought the PM252 due to the integrated supply. If you need a volume control on the Amp, only A7 provides. On the other hand, PM252 has fully separated Amp modules - dual mono in one casing with integrated power. I would like 2 hear A7 vs. PM252 side by side. If you don't need that much power maybe you'll like to save some money with A5 or PM152
Only to clarify what it means in size to decide form factor A5/A7 or PAM 252 - 254 design. (see pictures)

Comparing the sound of the 3251-driven A5 with the 3255 architecture of the PMA252, they have a different sound signature. The A5 Stage is a bit smaller and not so deep. A lot of details and nice timing. Soundwise, the A5 is "lighter" but a really joyful amp that drives a KEF LS50 Meta better than many amps three times more expensive.

The PMA252 is a quick amp with enough current to drive nearly every speaker. More space (extending the stage outside the speaker setting), more depth, and more bass. In general, a bit more on the warmer side than the very clean A5. If this beast isn't enough, I would use the PMA 254 with 4x single amps in a bi-wiring approach. I would even try to drive an old 90ties Kappa with these. With my PMA 252, I do have a slight sound level difference between left and right, something that I also had on other settings with separated amps per channel. The extra money you pay for the PMA 252 pays out, but I love both amps.

In my case, I compared the A5 with the bypassed Volume Control to the PMA252 without volume control. Signals coming from WiiMPro+ and/or FiiO K13 R2R

And for those who said the 325x architecture is quite the same, i.e.:

THD+N 5W@1KHz (A-wt) from the manufacturer specs

PAM252 Single-end 0,0007%@4 Ohm / Balance 0,0006%@4 Ohm
A5 Single-end 0,0004%@4 Ohm / Balance 0,0004%@4 Ohm
 

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Only to clarify what it means in size to decide form factor A5/A7 or PAM 252 - 254 design. (see pictures)

Comparing the sound of the 3251-driven A5 with the 3255 architecture of the PMA252, they have a different sound signature. The A5 Stage is a bit smaller and not so deep. A lot of details and nice timing. Soundwise, the A5 is "lighter" but a really joyful amp that drives a KEF LS50 Meta better than many amps three times more expensive.

The PMA252 is a quick amp with enough current to drive nearly every speaker. More space (extending the stage outside the speaker setting), more depth, and more bass. In general, a bit more on the warmer side than the very clean A5. If this beast isn't enough, I would use the PMA 254 with 4x single amps in a bi-wiring approach. I would even try to drive an old 90ties Kappa with these. With my PMA 252, I do have a slight sound level difference between left and right, something that I also had on other settings with separated amps per channel. The extra money you pay for the PMA 252 pays out, but I love both amps.

In my case, I compared the A5 with the bypassed Volume Control to the PMA252 without volume control. Signals coming from WiiMPro+ and/or FiiO K13 R2R

And for those who said the 325x architecture is quite the same, i.e.:

THD+N 5W@1KHz (A-wt) from the manufacturer specs

PAM252 Single-end 0,0007%@4 Ohm / Balance 0,0006%@4 Ohm
A5 Single-end 0,0004%@4 Ohm / Balance 0,0004%@4 Ohm
Comparing the sound of the 3251-driven A5 with the 3255 architecture of the PMA252, they have a different sound signature. The A5 Stage is a bit smaller and not so deep. A lot of details and nice timing. Soundwise, the A5 is "lighter" but a really joyful amp that drives a KEF LS50 Meta better than many amps three times more expensive.

You really think you could pick which one is which volume matched to 0.1db ABX?
 
Comparing the sound of the 3251-driven A5 with the 3255 architecture of the PMA252, they have a different sound signature. The A5 Stage is a bit smaller and not so deep. A lot of details and nice timing. Soundwise, the A5 is "lighter" but a really joyful amp that drives a KEF LS50 Meta better than many amps three times more expensive.

You really think you could pick which one is which volume matched to 0.1db ABX?
I did a volume matching with a calibrated mic. And yes, between the A5 and the PMA there is a clear sound difference and a different soundstage. I'm not so sure that this is also something to say, comparing it to an A7. I was immediately attracted by the A5 well balanced sound. A perfect amp to create a small system with wonderful bass control. The PMA is his big brother.
 
I did a volume matching with a calibrated mic. And yes, between the A5 and the PMA there is a clear sound difference and a different soundstage. I'm not so sure that this is also something to say, comparing it to an A7. I was immediately attracted by the A5 well balanced sound. A perfect amp to create a small system with wonderful bass control. The PMA is his big brother.
Do you understand the difference in accuracy between a decent calibrated mic like a umik1 and a voltmeter?
With a umik1, at best you're at +/-0.5db. With a voltmeter you're easily at 0.1db.
No wonder you can tell the difference. Your volumes are more than likely 500%+ different than the standard used to differentiate amplifiers.

If you're one of those golden ears that think who cares about measurements, you listen with your ears. Then try this one - take the amp you don't like. Make the volume slightly louder. Do a blind test. Research shows you will probably like the one that is louder.

Don't believe me. Do the math.
 
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