I guess vinyl replay isn't to everyone's taste in these parts, but it'd be great to see some sort of compendium of your set-up and measurement techniques for turntables
@TBone, if there isn't something already in existence?
only the following ...
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/clamping-lps-the-tbone-way.3353/
I've considered doing other posts on the subject of turntable setups, but ...
As with clamping, most, if not near every audiophile I know, seem to ignore many basic, but critical factors during setup. No wonder opinions on setup & equipment are all over the place.
Since the north is besieged by major wild fires, crimping my valuable fishing time, I'm forced back to town, so perhaps I should take the time to post about setup in a more comprehensive manner. However, for the time being, here are just a few brief opinions on common errors I see with setup, that even the "pro's" consistently make. I made them also, but no more. These are all based on plenty trial, and lots and lots of error. Take 'em for what they're worth; which maybe nothing.
Azimuth, the most critical of all. However, one should never really have to adjust azimuth on the arm past a level setting, that is, IF the cartridge manufacturers properly do their job. Carts should all be designed for a flat/parallel setup, the stylus should be mounted on the cantilever perfectly so as to have no need for tonearm azimuth adjustments, past level. Otherwise, they introduce more potential errors into the mix, that are much harder to resolve.
We pay good money for cartridges, so we should expect proper stylus/cantilever orientation. You maybe surprised how often I've seen skewed stylus/cantilever orientations, under a microscope, even with brand new models. One company, in particular, has provided very consistent results, IMO, you can't go wrong with Nagaoka's, superb carts, very low moving mass, and reasonably priced. Love the fact they don't change models like I change underwear. IMO, they have little need for change, they got it right in the first place ... unlike Ortofon and others, who seem to make newer "better" carts near every half-year. As far as I'm concerned, quality control should be the number one priority for cartridge manufacturers, even with entry level alternatives.
Same with VTA, the arm should always be parallel to the platter, otherwise azimuth errors compound. Negative VTA, or "tail-dragging", is absolutely one of the worst thing you can do to ANY cartridge, even if that's the only way to optimize SRA, esp. during the critical break-in period.
Near everyone now-a-days claims SRA should be set around 92 degrees, but in reality it should be set slightly higher, around 93 degrees. SRA is always set in a static position, but under load, things change.
Excessive, even moderate, Ant-Skate compensation damages carts, sonically and physically. AS is required, but it should always be set at minimum. Again, especially important during the break-in period, as the cart settles-in for life. As the stylus pulls inwards, the AS mechanism pulls in the opposing direction, but not directly on the stylus, rather at the pivot, meaning the entire tonearm. That "compensation" (and it does not take much over a period of time) can easily offset cantilever / stylus alignment, especially with higher compliance models. It also offsets the internal generator, the magnets/coils no longer align optimally. Long term use of excessive AS skate, or even moderate AS, will often permanent offset the cantilever ... I've witnessed far too many carts/stylus with permanently offset cantilevers and excessive wear on only one side of the stylus, well before they hit 500hrs.
Past the above, all I can say is that the turntable (and arm), are just as, if not more important than any choice of cart, especially in terms of noise floor. Lowering the noise floor maybe more critical than many 'philes
think, because it doesn't take much noise to swamp out minute details. My biggest gains in relation to achieving greater overall detail, especially low frequency accuracy, have all been based on minimizing turntable noise & resonances. And make no mistake, all turntables are resonant / noisy affairs, to one degree or another ... but how those resonances are controlled and/or dissipated is a saga worthy of its own post.
HTH