Most watts per dollar?

[Bryguy]

Only "feature" is a connector for a JBL processor which has all the fancy features. It is actually just a plain power amp.

Oh I misread their page. Had thought the 1000 and 1300 watts were for bridged. In fact the bridge rating is 2700 watts in 8 ohms. Yes, that is quite a bargain at 500 bucks. I don't need quite that much, but if I did that would probably be my go to

 

[Old_School_Brad]

Pick up a solid used Crown amp -it'll handle whatever you throw at it, no matter the load, and keep going.

 

[ZolaIII]

Dynacord L1300FD as starting model with 240W @8 Ohms measured. For 10 PEQ's and FIR, performance is limited to 80 dB SINAD. Those are class A-B (F-G).

 

[Audionaut]

the t.amp E-1500

the t.amp E-1500 Stereo-Endstufe, Leistung: 2x 1220W an 4 Ohm, 2x 850W an 8 Ohm, 1x 2440W an 8 Ohm gebrückt (@1kHz, THD

www.thomann.de

Power: 2x 1220 W into 4 ohms, 2x 850 W into 8 ohms, 1x 2440 W into 8 ohms bridged (@1 kHz, THD<=0.1%)

I use this for my 18 inch subwoofer.
Works perfectly.

 

[Sokel]

I second @NTK 's suggestion about 1200as.
Plus you can add a 400a2 for 2 more channels any time you like for beer money and with good specs.

 

[Elgrosso]

The Thomann serie is probably the best ratio, but they were too warm and noisy in my case.
The crown xls are great, but can be noisy too with high gain (they accepts RCA).
You can also check XTZ sales and outlet, they regularly have some amps for cheap.
Also, maybe check the real power use with their voltage, you might not really need what you expect.

 

[izeek]

AudioSource AMP 310 2 Channel Power Amplifier | eBay

unit only.

www.ebay.com

i have 3 older models that are still kicking ass.
150wpc @8ohms,400@4ohms. built like a tank. lots of headroom.

 

[Bryguy]

I'm scheduled to pick up a used XLS 1002 on Monday for 150. 1100W 4 Ohm bridged, which is my intended use case. Should be plenty for me

 

[Old_School_Brad]

I'm scheduled to pick up a used XLS 1002 on Monday for 150. 1100W 4 Ohm bridged, which is my intended use case. Should be plenty for me

Good choice.

Happy listening.

 

[DWPress]

I'm scheduled to pick up a used XLS 1002 on Monday for 150. 1100W 4 Ohm bridged, which is my intended use case. Should be plenty for me

I had a XLS 1500 bridged for a sub with a 15" Dayton rss390hf 4ohm driver. Got rid of it because of excessive fan noise, good luck.

 

[JSmith]

excessive fan noise

Interesting, as during testing Amir noted;

There is a fan in the back and some inside. But none came on that I could hear above the sound of my PC during testing. Nothing shut down even when the amp was pushed into clipping. Some kind of limiter would kick in after short period to keep the power level at max. Temperature of the case didn't even rise above room temp.

Crown XLS1002 Pro Amplifier Review

This is a review and detailed measurements of the Crown XLS 1002 rack mounted pro amplifier. It was kindly purchased new by a member and drop shipped to me. The 1002 costs US $339 including Prime shipping from Amazon. Note: our company, Madrona Digital, is a dealer for Harman and hence Crown...

www.audiosciencereview.com

JSmith

 

[DWPress]

It only came on during loud listening sessions but since it was only 3' away from me it dominated the noise floor. Just my personal experience, if you don't push your system into 100dB+ levels you're probably ok.

 

[mcdn]

Hello. I have a passive subwoofer using 2 Dayton RSS210HO-8's in parallel, and I am looking for a cheap amplifier to power it. All filtering will be done through a Wiim Ultra, so I don't need any features, just power. Any recommendations? I have a Fosi ZA3 which outputs 235W mono 4 Ohm at 1% THD & 300W @ 10%, but I am looking for a bit more power than that. Preferably class d. Any suggestions? Thanks!

$/watt you will struggle to do better, simply because you can’t get the impedance below 4ohms. Splitting the drivers is bad because then you have 2x8ohm loads to drive. Sticking with the paralleled drivers means you need something with 1200w/4ohms to max them out, which is always going to be expensive.

It would probably be cheapest to swap the drivers for the 4ohm versions, and purchase an extra ZA3 (one ZA3 per driver)

 

[Head_Unit]

you can’t get the impedance below 4ohms.

Amp power specifications are tested with continuous signal into resistors (and in the case of some cheapie brands apparently subject to a lot of debate about their veracity). And out of a lot of amps I either measured myself or have seen tested other places like here or Stereophile there have only been three that truly doubled their power into less ohms (the others are all lying for marketing reasons, I'm guilty of that as well, forgive me gods of audio).

Thus I have a hypothesis that actual clipping power into real speakers is not increased by loading the amplifiers down to very low impedance...if someone could actually test this it would be cool, I'm not set up for that. Certainly the heat losses in the amp go up a lot, I^2*R and all that, at least for Class AB. I wonder if it is the same for Class D? I can't quite picture that in my head.