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Most beautiful speakers in the world ?

In high-end turntables, the type of drive belt used plays a significant role in overall performance and sound quality. Among the most common belt types—round belts, flat belts, and toothed (or timing) belts—flat belts are generally considered the best and most widely used solution in high-end designs.

Flat belts offer an ideal balance between efficient torque transmission and mechanical isolation. Their broad surface ensures smooth and stable contact with the motor and platter, minimizing wow and flutter. This leads to excellent speed stability and low noise, which are crucial for audiophile-grade playback. As a result, many respected high-end brands (not even at ASR, but usually) such as Clearaudio, Linn, and Rega (in some models) use flat belts in their belt-drive systems.

Round belts, by contrast, are more commonly found in mid-range or vintage turntables. They are simpler and less expensive but tend to have issues with uniform tension and speed consistency, which makes them less suitable for top-tier performance.

Toothed belts, or timing belts, ensure very precise power transmission without any slippage. However, the mechanical interaction of the teeth can introduce microvibrations, making them less desirable for high-end audio where vibration isolation is critical. For this reason, they are rarely used in high-end turntables, though some specialized systems may incorporate them in hybrid configurations.

In summary, flat belts are (or were?) the most common and preferred choice in high-end turntable engineering due to their superior balance of smooth operation, low noise, and precise speed control.

I haven't had a record player myself for a long time, but I don't think that should have changed.
Thanks for the info! The amount of knowledge I've picked up just by reading these forums is amazing, and now that I've started participating I'm learning even more. I doubt I'll ever use a turntable regularly, simply due to convenience compared to digital, but it's still fascinating to read about what it takes to make them work.
 
I don't know much about turntables, but I'm pretty mechanically inclined (currently learning mechanical drafting at community college, and planning to get an advanced manufacturing certificate). I assumed that @Frank Dernie meant a round cross section (as in a piece cut from the belt would be cylindrical), and the mention of "stick-slip" confirmed it. I think he favors a toothed belt, which wouldn't be capable of slipping but is more expensive to implement (you need toothed pulleys to go with the belt). Honestly I've only seen toothed belts in higher force applications (car engines and bike drivetrains specifically), so I'm not sure if that's really necessary for a turntable unless the platter is extremely heavy. The Triangle turntable that was posted might qualify though, that looked like a huge piece of rotating brass.
No, flat belts are best for belt drive.
I don't remember who it was but decades ago the difference in W&F and maybe rumble was tested with otherwise identical turntables one with a flat belt and the other with round, the flat was measureably better.

Like all drive methods good design is required as much as concept but a round belt is just poor engineering practice, and was taught as such in my engineering schooling back in the 1960s.
 
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I’m still confused about what a “ round section belt” would be as distinguished from any other type of belt. All of them would have to go around something so that’s what’s leaving me confused.

Unless you mean that you feel that all belt drives are compromised and you believe in direct drive instead?

Here’s mine FWIW:

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Yes, that is also poor engineering practice.
Lots of modern bling design, as opposed to engineering based turntables have them.
Maybe a well engineered drive wouldn't make much difference in a high inertia design but it offends my engineering sense to see it ;)
 
This thread should definitely be renamed "anything but beautiful". Frankly, you're lost, boys (and some girls perhaps) !
It was not intended to show the weirdest products that the audio industry has created. And our beloved industry has created A LOOOOT of weirds products !

Please be back to some beauty and simplicity.
 
Please be back to some beauty and simplicity.
Beauty, as this thread with its discussions shows very clearly, is always in the eye of the individual beholder.
Just show what you find beautiful yourself - and others can then lower their thumbs or point them upwards .
 
The idea of placing the speaker at ear level and firing upwards has always been present. Anyone with a speaker box smaller than a fridge could upturn their boxes to experiment. As sound doesn't travel in straight lines and there aren't so-called air molecules, you might find the experience quite interesting.
 
No, flat belts are best for belt drive.
I don't remember who it was but decades ago the difference in W&F and maybe rumble was tested with otherwise identical turntables one with a flat belt and the other with round, the flat was measureably better.

Like all drive methods good design is required as much as concept but a round belt is just poor engineering practice, and was taught as such in my engineering schooling back in the 1960s.
What is an example of a good flat belt? Reel to reel tape comes to mind, but I presume it degrades. And has no stretch to maintain tension.
Do they have to be DIY, or can they be bought?
If it has no stretch, do they need a special tensioning mechanism?
 
Maybe round cross section belts as opposed to flat type belts. Used by Rega for example

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That's 3 round belts, not 1 flat belt. I've always assumed rega are trying to fix the issues Frank discusses with round belts, just by using more, but I've no idea if that works. My rega has 2 round belts.
 
I really like this set up. SAT are one of the best ideas to come around. As much as I love the ability of the CnC in many of the newer cabinet designs. I can see a guy with a table saw, router, sander and maybe a nice chop saw being able to do a project much like this. I can see pretty easy driver alignment, and even a change from MTM to , TM, MT, TMM, Side by side LS TM or even a Hybrid LS mids with a single or split HF/UHF Tweeter point source.

The one thing I really can't get used to is the wrinkled surround look. I have no idea how or why it looks that way but, it looks broken from the factory. :)

Regards
 
The wrinkled surround mostly grantees that the radiating surface is always the same which according to Purifi is one key part on how they pushed distotion really low.

They call this PURIFI NeutralSurround
Search for the "NeutralSurround" term on this page:

It has good explanations around the design with animations
 
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It has a good explanation with animations
Well, I'm sure they work just fine, but it's kind of like post "6669" of the Genelec. Maybe that appeals to some folks, but for the money and THAT look, I can honestly see 10-15K tops. I understand they are powered, BUT that speaker cabinet would need some fancy veneers to appeal to me at all. What's with no speaker covers, man alive? They look so unfinished, especially with the pre-treated cones. I bet they blast, but then I'm not into blasting, though I have been known to piss the neighbor off a time or two.

Besides, I've NEVER been an active speaker guy. I like the look of my McIntosh gear and have for over 50 years now. I mean, power amps come and go via the seasonal winter/summer change now. Valves/class Ds in the winter and class Ds/class Ds in the summer. I guess it's a different generation.

Regards
 
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Just by looking at that picture, my ears feel pierced. Somehow looking at anything that resembles a horn gives me that feeling o_O
 
Just by looking at that picture, my ears feel pierced. Somehow looking at anything that resembles a horn gives me that feeling o_O
Also just two relatively small midwoofers? with hard and deep edges don't give the impression of a well engineered approach.
 
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