What is "reference quality" sound?
If you don't spend some money on room treatment, nothing you get will be "reference".
If you believe this is the case, then suggest the most affordable solution that you feel can reliably fit the above criteria.
If you believe this is the case, then suggest the most affordable solution that you feel can reliably fit the above criteria.
If you believe this is the case, then suggest the most affordable solution that you feel can reliably fit the above criteria.
Evil ones, i'm sure of it.I have to ask: What are your intentions?
ASR in general tries not to deal in 'belief' or 'faith' systems.
I have to ask: What are your intentions?
I think one of the great values of ASR is identifying equipment with a high performance/price ratio. Finding that a $10k speaker doesn't perform well is less interesting to me than finding a $400 speaker that is stellar....an interesting exercise might be to determine the lowest cost system that is indistinguishable from the best system at any cost....
I will pass. It's just a silly thread at this point, especially with your reply to mine.
This thread is silly.
I will let you decide for yourself what that means.
What it means to me though is a system that delivers very neutral and accurate results at my normal listening levels, with minimal distortion and decent extension in both the bass and treble. I think some people also like to use the word "fidelity" to describe this. But I am not as well-accounted or comfortable with that word. So I'm less sure about that.
This of course begs the question of what is "neutral" and "accurate". So I'll defer to my earlier suggestion of just using your best judgment on that. If you don't think that reference quality sound needs to be neutral or accurate though, then these qualities may not matter so much.
There may be other mitigating factors that need to be considered in your suggestions on this as well (such as the difference between open and closed headphones, for example).
No mention of room size? That's a pretty critical piece of information. And are you watching movies frequently and want good 10-30Hz performance?
For example, if you're talking about a desktop setup for a small room, the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 is a pretty self contained setup. There's a boost in the 2-4kHz region, and a steep roll off beyond 40Hz. I made some basic in-room measurements and compared it to a JBL A130 + sub setup as well.
Klipsch Promedia 2.1 THX review / measurements / thoughts
Yes, they have been reviewed to death, but as one of the reigning 2.1 PC speaker solutions, always wondered how they sound and measured in my room, so I recently acquired a used pair. Speakers were measured in my room, which is a typical HDB, roughly ~2m x ~3m, study room. Satellites were away...forums.hardwarezone.com.sg
Klipsch in green (I think the bass knob's at 50%, can't remember), A130 + sub in teal
Or are you looking for something for a much larger room / hall?
I suspect a lot of answers will be biased towards what people own, because they chose them for this very reason.
With that in mind, lowest possible cost, probably something like the Kali IN-8 V2 for a pair of speakers.
If going passive, with great bass and a very neutral yet detailed sound, Buchardt S400 MKII. If you prefer something a little warmer, go for the MKI. Both of these represent some of the best you can get around the $2k USD mark.
Stepping up and away from low cost, I would look into JTR 3-way speakers with the coaxial compression drivers. Sure, there are other incremental improvements in between these two, but why go to the trouble of changing speakers for incremental improvements? Go big or go home.
And pair subwoofers with everything.
Or, get a really good set of IEMs and save thousands. Or get both so you can have your reference sound on the go and that bigger experience when you get home.
I think my $6k attempt at absolute reference for minimum budget was good (F208, nc502, MiniDSP Flex/UMIK, absorbtion). However, I would imagine that for certain people with certain material (EDM, that one scene in Blackhawk down) you would need to use the other two outputs on the MiniDSP to do multi-sub with some HSU VTF-15H. At $1k each, this raises the total system cost to $7-10k depending how many subs from 1-4.
That is an interesting point. Near the original price, would it be better to have the F208 or have the F206 with dual (stereo?) subs? I don't know. I imagine the F208 has less distortion from 80-150 hz, which would be nice (F208 is ~1% distortion at 80 hz in Amir's test @ >90 dB). However, the subs let you take that octave from 30 hz - 60 hz out of the hands of the mains. Are there Klipple spins and distortion tests of the F206?In which case you ditch the 208 and go for the 206, saving $1-1.5k in the process.
That is an interesting point. Near the original price, would it be better to have the F208 or have the F206 with dual (stereo?) subs? I don't know. I imagine the F208 has less distortion from 80-150 hz, which would be nice (F208 is ~1% distortion at 80 hz in Amir's test @ >90 dB). However, the subs let you take that octave from 30 hz - 60 hz out of the hands of the mains. Are there Klipple spins and distortion tests of the F206?
Part of the difference would be that the F208 starts being somewhat directional below 200 hz, while the F206 is probably omnidirectional up higher. I don't know that this would matter as much in a systems which I outlined with equalization "fixing" the mid-bass transition zone.
Of course, the subs also give you lower bass, perhaps even into the teens. With most material that doesn't mean anything, but when a piece asks for sub 30 hz, you will certainly know if you have subs or not.