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Monolith by Monoprice M-12 V2 Plate Amp Teardown?
- Thread starter tpd
- Start date
meatloafsurprise
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- May 13, 2026
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I just received mine today. I took the amp plate off and the connector where the blue jumper wire is in this picture (CON200) is empty. Could it be as simple as adding this jumper and changing the fuse?
Edit:
The board connector appears to be a TE Connectivity, part #350582-4 or one of its variations. The connector itself could be a #1-480698-0 or similar. Will need to order the socket contacts as well. Should the jumper be 14 awg or larger?
Last edited:
roci_big_ear
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My 230V subs arrived today. They enter protection mode out of the box and don't work at 120V.
I took out the plate amp from my existing 120V sub and compared to the 230V variant. The only differences are the fuses and the loop back cable. Moving the loop back cable over between amps powers the 230V sub properly. So the mod is to add the loop back cable and change the fuse. The cable has connector TE 350777.
Pic of the two plate amps attached.
Congrats to everyone who scored this fantastic deal!
I took out the plate amp from my existing 120V sub and compared to the 230V variant. The only differences are the fuses and the loop back cable. Moving the loop back cable over between amps powers the 230V sub properly. So the mod is to add the loop back cable and change the fuse. The cable has connector TE 350777.
Pic of the two plate amps attached.
Congrats to everyone who scored this fantastic deal!
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roci_big_ear
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- Feb 24, 2022
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I spent more time than I planned looking for that connector. I believe this is the best listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/130873526033
I believe the fuse is 5X20mm T6.3L250V based off what the US version says.
Do we just buy this and connect both sides with a wire?
3000w step up confirmed to work.
what about this connector? https://www.ebay.com/itm/352979057943
Ships from the US but it's splash proof.
Ships from the US but it's splash proof.
This is awesome. Mine is coming later today,
I haven't had a chance to unbox mine yet, but I found the opposite for an SVS to convert from 120 to 240. I was hoping it was going to be as simple as adding in the jumper cable:
AWESOME WORK!
I haven't had a chance to unbox mine yet, but I found the opposite for an SVS to convert from 120 to 240. I was hoping it was going to be as simple as adding in the jumper cable:
Success: I've added the jumper cable and changed the fuse.
I used these from Amazon. I selected these because I could get them next day.
I used 16-gauge wire for the jumper
And now I'm ready for the internet to tell me 16 gauge is way too small.
I used these from Amazon. I selected these because I could get them next day.
unlock seamless connections with 12 sets of standard .062 in. pin and receptacle connectors - perfect for molex compatibility, 3.68 mm pitch, 18-24 awg, free hanging design for effortless installation: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
unlock seamless connections with 12 sets of standard .062 in. pin and receptacle connectors - perfect for molex compatibility, 3.68 mm pitch, 18-24 awg, free hanging design for effortless installation: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
I used 16-gauge wire for the jumper
And now I'm ready for the internet to tell me 16 gauge is way too small.
Can you indicate what to change , on the pictures? Circling the item to change or move or replace in red , for example? Help us a bit. Price is now $999 or so. Not such a great deal anymore but … still a good one.
Image on the left is 120v with jumper installed, blue wire.
Image on right is what the 240v looks like jumper missing.
What the YouTube video above, it shows the process of removing that jumper to convert from 120 to 240.
Be cautious! Unplug before opening. Capacitors could still have a charge, maybe...
This is line voltage - this can kill you. If you don't know what you are doing or are uncomfortable - step up transformers are cheap.
Thanks for the info! I've been using a step-up transformer but would love to eliminate it. Which amperage fuse did you use? The link you shared defaults to the 6.3a but the US version backplate looks like it uses 3.15a?
I used the 6.3a. On the plate amp under the fuse there is a label written:
120V = T6.3L
230V = T3.15L
I handed my h100 down to my son. It's utterly indestructible!
