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MiniDSP SHD Studio alternatives

juliangst

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The RME certainly is another good AES controller as well.

But if you don't need any of it's recording, EQ and headphone features then the MiniDSP flex digital looks like the better deal to me.
Spend the 1000€ of price difference on another sub for an even smoother frequency response :)

As said before you just need a cheap impedance transformer to go from coax to XLR if you need one at all.
The Okto DAC for example which also does only have AES/EBU inputs works absolutely fine with just a coax to xlr cable without any converters.
 
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Sparky

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The RME certainly is another good AES controller as well.

But if you don't need any of it's recording, EQ and headphone features then the MiniDSP flex digital looks like the better deal to me.
Spend the 1000€ of price difference on another sub for an even smoother frequency response :)

As said before you just need a cheap impedance transformer to go from coax to XLR if you need one at all.
The Okto DAC for example which also does only have AES/EBU inputs works absolutely fine with just a coax to xlr cable without any converters.
That's a very fair and valid point.....

I'm doing that very same thing right now with my current set up.
I suppose I'm just thinking that I can be done with it all knowing I have no doubt in my mind that my hardware is as good as I can possibly afford.

I hate doubt! Especially when you're spending a fair few quid!! :D
 
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Sounds like a zero-compromise solution!
I'm referring to the signal.path really. In an ideal world you're meant to feed these Genelecs with a full range, unaltered signal.

I mean, it sounds awesome as it is right now. I'm probably being an idiot changing it really.
Because of the new media wall, I need a system that is bulletproof and there's nothing more bulletproof than an RME and Genelec combo......

I'm no rich kid, I'm a 44 year old electrician with a wife and 2 kids. I work hard for my money and just want the best I can afford. Or that I can comfortably hide from the wife! :D

..
 

Zaireeka

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Then why not considering the Lake People unit which is half the price of the RME?
 
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Sparky

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Then why not considering the Lake People unit which is half the price of the RME?
I am considering the Lake People product and after looking at the product specs, it looks like it could be ideal for my circumstances BUT....the Lake People product is a complete unknown to me.
The RME product on the other hand is known to me (as a previous owner) and therefore I know that it will work in my system.
There is also the bonus that the RME is compatible with my Harmony remote control set up which will allow the family to continue to use everything as normal.
The last thing I would want is to buy the Lake People product only to find that there is a compatibility issue with the Harmony.
I would have to package it all up and go through a whole returns process etc etc...............

I do like the look of it though!! :)
 

Zaireeka

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From what I see the LP simply reclocks and converts different digital signals, and allows for a volume control function. The motorized volume pot and remote control are optionals though. As a pro unit it should provide a clean and robust AES signal without any problem.
The RME is a lovely and well proven bit of kit, probably overkill for your usage, but I'd love to own one too!
 
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From what I see the LP simply reclocks and converts different digital signals, and allows for a volume control function. The motorized volume pot and remote control are optionals though. As a pro unit it should provide a clean and robust AES signal without any problem.
The RME is a lovely and well proven bit of kit, probably overkill for your usage, but I'd love to own one too!
It does look really interesting and I'll be doing a bit more research on it to see if it's a viable option.

I'm only drawn to the RME because I'm a previous owner so I can 100% confirm it's reliability and compatibility.
 
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After looking at all the suggestions made here, I think the RME ADI PRO 2 is the best bet.
Yes, it's overkill for my needs but RME has solid customer support, excellent warranty, superb build quality and a proven track record.
With me being in the UK, if anything goes wrong it won't be so difficult to return it.

Minidsp on the other hand, has lackluster customer support, woeful returns policy/warranty and is a non European product.

I would rather spend an extra £400 for peace of mind with the RME.
 

juliangst

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After looking at all the suggestions made here, I think the RME ADI PRO 2 is the best bet.
Yes, it's overkill for my needs but RME has solid customer support, excellent warranty, superb build quality and a proven track record.
With me being in the UK, if anything goes wrong it won't be so difficult to return it.

Minidsp on the other hand, has lackluster customer support, woeful returns policy/warranty and is a non European product.

I would rather spend an extra £400 for peace of mind with the RME.
Totally get that and not a bad decision.
Where will you get the RME from?
I've only seen it for 1658€ on Thomann and similar shops while the Flex is 650€ on Audiophonics
 
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Totally get that and not a bad decision.
Where will you get the RME from?
I've only seen it for 1658€ on Thomann and similar shops while the Flex is 650€ on Audiophonics
I'll more than likely get it from a local store near me:
I'm buying the 2 x 7360A's off them so he'll more than likely knock a few quid off for me. :)
 
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I've just realised I said "more than likely" twice in the above post. :D
 
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I will be honest and say that the "flex" is an intriguing product and it measured very well on here.
You might call me an interconnect snob but for my "all Genelec" set up, I want the cleanest signal path possible.
This means no adapters or impedance converters.
Just true AES/EBU from the start of the signal chain to the end......
I've invested a lot of money into this so I feel I need to do this as intended.
 

napfkuchen

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You might call me an interconnect snob but for my "all Genelec" set up, I want the cleanest signal path possible.
This means no adapters or impedance converters.
Just true AES/EBU from the start of the signal chain to the end......
I've invested a lot of money into this so I feel I need to do this as intended.
What do you think will happen if you add an impedance converter to the signal path? Right, nothing ... If a digital signal is corrupted somehow the output won't deteriorate slightly in quality. There is either "true"/correct or a complete mess and you'll notice it if s.th. is wrong with the connection. Changed from an external USB/AES-EBU soundcard to a Yamaha WXC-50 for my Genelec stereo setup and didn't notice a difference in sound quality but it is much more convenient because of the additional connection options (MusicCast App and bluetooth).
 
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What do you think will happen if you add an impedance converter to the signal path? Right, nothing ... If a digital signal is corrupted somehow the output won't deteriorate slightly in quality. There is either "true"/correct or a complete mess and you'll notice it if s.th. is wrong with the connection. Changed from an external USB/AES-EBU soundcard to a Yamaha WXC-50 for my Genelec stereo setup and didn't notice a difference in sound quality but it is much more convenient because of the additional connection options (MusicCast App and bluetooth).
Of course, you're right. A digital signal either works or it doesn't.

With my case, a Yamaha WXC-50 wouldn't work as I need input selection via a screen that can be seen by the family.
I also need the device to be remote controlled but also work with a harmony remote.
Plus, I use ROON so the device also needs to be "ROON Ready" and act as a ROON end-point.
I want a dedicated AES/EBU output just because I want it and no other reason.

I currently use an SHD with the coax output 1&2 with a BNC/AES impedance converter and see nothing wrong with it so I'm familiar with an impedance converter.

I have used the RME ADI2 before and it's a fantastic device. The "loudness" function alone is something worth paying a premium for believe me!
The ADI2 PRO ticks every single box and then a few more for good measure.

If I was just music only and didn't need any of the above items, the WXC-50 would be perfect.
 

napfkuchen

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With the WXC-50 there are two ways you can display/adjust the volume:
  • when connected via bluetooth or MusicCast: MusicCast App on an android or apple device.
  • when connected via digital-in a computer: There is this small programm ClickMonitorDDC (works with Windows 10/11). It allows you to display the monitor brightness and volume level as symbols in the windows taskbar and adjust brightness/volume with the mouse-wheel while hovering the icons.
 
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Sparky

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With the WXC-50 there are two ways you can display/adjust the volume:
  • when connected via bluetooth or MusicCast: MusicCast App on an android or apple device.
  • when connected via digital-in a computer: There is this small programm ClickMonitorDDC (works with Windows 10/11). It allows you to display the monitor brightness and volume level as symbols in the windows taskbar and adjust brightness/volume with the mouse-wheel while hovering the icons.
Of course, you are right but I have to consider my wife and children who will be using the system too!

If my wife or kids had to open an app to see what the volume was set to or see what input is selected, there would be chaos in the house.
The Harmony remote can sometimes go a bit haywire so being able to actually see the volume and input is vital really.

As I said before, if it was just me, it would be fine......
 

HairyEars

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Tried it a while ago. It plain didn't work at all. Genelec do not consider volume control for the likes of us home users. Why would they....they're fully a studio/professional business. They need to move with the times though....
Use thier wired knob. A good product. Solid and pleasant to handle.

 

HairyEars

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I will be honest and say that the "flex" is an intriguing product and it measured very well on here.
You might call me an interconnect snob but for my "all Genelec" set up, I want the cleanest signal path possible.
This means no adapters or impedance converters.
Just true AES/EBU from the start of the signal chain to the end......
I've invested a lot of money into this so I feel I need to do this as intended.
AES all the way. I started analog, and discovered the double conversation adds a slight veil. Now I use a streamer with AES output, and miniDSP U8 for a 5.2
 
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