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miniDSP Flex HT - Review and Measurements

This is also a big limit when you already own a Dirac license for your PC and want to make use of it.
I would just buy like a different device like an ADC or a topping dm7
 
I would just buy like a different device like an ADC or a topping dm7
You would lose the HDMI, that's the big plus of this device.

Maybe something can be done on software with a virtual audio cable.
 
Kadajawi, I hope you can help me. I understand that the S95C earc-HDMI output downmixes everything to 2 channels, right? Have you tried to send multichannel PCM from the S95C to the Minidsp Flex HT via USB? Maybe that could be a "secret door"? I am using the USB audio out from the S95C to my 2 channel DAC with great results (even if I think that the S95C resamples everything to 44.1khz).
Oh, I didn't even know the TV would output audio via USB. It would surprise me if that would work, but maybe I can try it.
 
Has anyone tried using this with an Amazon Fire TV directly? Using a HDMI splitter. For home theater systems that don't use the TV as a source.
Fire TV has optional LPCM out.
 
Has anyone tried using this with an Amazon Fire TV directly? Using a HDMI splitter. For home theater systems that don't use the TV as a source.
Fire TV has optional LPCM out.
Stereo PCM works. Multichannel only if using Kodi (on the one that I used... there are too many models). Every other app will NOT give you surround. So if you want to use Netflix for example, you'll have to use it through Kodi. Which sort of works, maybe, to a certain degree? Depending on the device, you'll get 1080p, 720p, maybe, if lucky, 4K. Chances with Fire TVs are better than with the Shield. Good thing is you can pick exactly the stream you want (if it plays is another matter), i.e. you see what bitrate etc.

If you want to make sure it works, get an Apple TV 4K. Only device that really works.
 
TL;DR; Anyone have issues with having two possible inputs, and it continually changing between the two?

I've used Googe but nothing came up

-------------------------

I started with it connected to PC via USB, and output is to KH120's over RCA -> XLR + SVS Micro 3000 with RCA

Issue is I've been getting buzzing in the speakers under certain circumstances.
I'm assuming it's my desktop causing most of issues

I flipped it from ground to lift, and that fixed the worst
(I'm going to move speaker power to another powerpoint and come back to ground to see if that improves it)

But there's still buzzing. So I pulled out the USB cable connected to PC and it went away.
I had a spare TOSLINK cable, so I added it as a source in the app, removed USB cable, but then after a minute, it'd go back to USB even though no USB cable is connected

I did the reverse. Plugged USB cable in, removed TOSLINK, and it now intermittedly just flicks between the two.

I've got both plugged in now, and still swaps..
 
TL;DR; Anyone have issues with having two possible inputs, and it continually changing between the two?

I've used Googe but nothing came up

-------------------------

I started with it connected to PC via USB, and output is to KH120's over RCA -> XLR + SVS Micro 3000 with RCA

Issue is I've been getting buzzing in the speakers under certain circumstances.
I'm assuming it's my desktop causing most of issues

I flipped it from ground to lift, and that fixed the worst
(I'm going to move speaker power to another powerpoint and come back to ground to see if that improves it)

But there's still buzzing. So I pulled out the USB cable connected to PC and it went away.
I had a spare TOSLINK cable, so I added it as a source in the app, removed USB cable, but then after a minute, it'd go back to USB even though no USB cable is connected

I did the reverse. Plugged USB cable in, removed TOSLINK, and it now intermittedly just flicks between the two.

I've got both plugged in now, and still swaps..
I have Toslink, USB and HDMI connected. No switching here unless I do so via remote or front panel.

To my knowledge, automatic switching is not a feature of this device, so this sounds like a bug or other issue. Ideas:
  1. Unplug the device from power (ie DC plug on back of unit) and then repower it.
  2. Update firmware if not on latest version (not that that should make a difference...)
  3. Reset to factory defaults and reset up?
  4. Confirm that something isn't sending the "switch input" IR code -- eg stuck button on remote, something like that? Eg block the IR receiver if in doubt.
Very odd.
 

@kadajawi

If you want to make sure it works, get an Apple TV 4K. Only device that really works.

The miniDSP Flex HT seems like a "nearly" perfect fit for my home theater application.

Components
  • DMLs as main left right channels,
  • smaller pair of DMLs as center channel speakers (inspired by Magnepan's experiments),
  • pair of open baffle 16" subwoofers,
  • Hypex amps for each channel,
  • mini DSP SHD integrates the mains and subwoofers (I had it from an earlier system),
  • Emotiva MC1 A/V processor directs audio signal to the SHD and center channel amps,
  • Apple TV 4K (only import source, don't need any other),
  • LG OLED TV
This works (mostly):
  • Brilliant for stereo sources.
  • Integration of the center channel speakers has not satisfied me.
  • Movies and TV that rely on center channel never really work well.
If I follow the discussion in this thread, for what I need, a miniDSP Flex HT can replace the mini DSP SHD & the Emotiva A/V processor, especially given my interest in better integrating the center channel.

Except ...

The Flex HT doesn't do Dolby Atmos® & DTS:X.​
My current A/V processor has Dolby Atmos® & DTS:X, but​
  • I don't have surround and
  • I currently have kind of wonky center channel integration.
Question

So... What do I really lose given the above described system?​

Will the Flex HT + Apple TV give me a clear and configurable center channel?​
Seems like DiracLive on the Flex HT would do exactly the integration that I need.​
Thoughts and guidance appreciate.​

 
Except ...

The Flex HT doesn't do Dolby Atmos® & DTS:X.​
My current A/V processor has Dolby Atmos® & DTS:X, but​
  • I don't have surround and
  • I currently have kind of wonky center channel integration.
Question

So... What do I really lose given the above described system?​

Will the Flex HT + Apple TV give me a clear and configurable center channel?​
Seems like DiracLive on the Flex HT would do exactly the integration that I need.​
Thoughts and guidance appreciate.​
You’d get a distinct center channel that you could route, mix, EQ etc. I’d say it would work for you. The AppleTV would be set to output PCM to the LG TV, which could send the audio to the Flex HT via eARC.

Note that it’s likely you would also get rear surround signals in this scenario, since I suspect the minimum config that would get you a discrete center signal is 5.1. So you would need to figure out what to do with surround signals — eg discard, or mix into fronts, etc.
 
You’d get a distinct center channel that you could route, mix, EQ etc. I’d say it would work for you. The AppleTV would be set to output PCM to the LG TV, which could send the audio to the Flex HT via eARC.

Note that it’s likely you would also get rear surround signals in this scenario, since I suspect the minimum config that would get you a discrete center signal is 5.1. So you would need to figure out what to do with surround signals — eg discard, or mix into fronts, etc.
Thanks for the confirmation.
I came to same conclusion, ordered the Flex HT, and received it yesterday.
Still waiting for a couple of cables.
Planning to configure with Dirac Live tomorrow or over the weekend.
 
Just saw your post. Yeah I think it will work. The Apple TV will give you all channels there are (except for height channels). And you do whatever you want with them.
 
Good catch. Did not see that. The DAC sections of the HT and Eight are probably identical.
They now used the same AP graph for both. Either they actually measured exactly the same, but to the 3rd decimal place? That's unlikely, so I think they didn't bother measuring the HT and assumed it would perform about the same based on both use the same preamp/dac/opas.
 
I have an old AVR circa 2006 with excellent amplifier/analog stage but no HDMI inputs at all. Can I use this to insert between HDMI sources & AVR with sources outputting MCH PCM via HDMI to Flex HT with Flex HT doing BM/EQ/DA conversion & outputting signal through MCH analog output to MCH analog input in the AVR?
 
I have an old AVR circa 2006 with excellent amplifier/analog stage but no HDMI inputs at all. Can I use this to insert between HDMI sources & AVR with sources outputting MCH PCM via HDMI to Flex HT with Flex HT doing BM/EQ/DA conversion & outputting signal through MCH analog output to MCH analog input in the AVR?
If I understand you correctly, the HT/x with a HDFury VRROOM should do what you want.

I assume you are talking audio only? None of this will transmit video. Are you sure your sources are lpcm?
 
Yes audio only. Instead of HD Fury I am thinking of cheaper alternative i.e. OREI BK-927.
 
I don't see the point of the OREI, in most cases. It doesn't appear to decode to MCH PCM, which means your source needs to do that. Which basically means either a PC or an Apple TV 4K. Maybe some gaming consoles can do that too...? Not sure on that. And once it is decoded, you could probably just use the HDMI ARC port of your TV to connect the MiniDSP. Only if your TV doesn't have ARC (which TV doesn't, though) or it doesn't do pass through of MCH PCM, you would need something like the OREI.

Also, if your AVR has inputs to be used as a power amp solely (like my Harman Kardon AVR 5500 has), I'd prefer to go that route. You'd skip any unwanted conversions / stuff in the signal path and could use the MiniDSP as pre-amp, which has the advantage of being able to control volume via TV remote.

Ah I messed up, if your TV doesn't support eARC (i.e. HDMI 2.1), you will need the splitter. If it is modern enough though, you can skip it.
 
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if your TV doesn't support eARC (i.e. HDMI 2.1), you will need the splitter. If it is modern enough though, you can skip it.
You'd be surprised at how many modern TV don't support multichannel PCM. LG seems ok, Samsung is a mix, Sony is a hard no.
 
I don't see the point of the OREI, in most cases. It doesn't appear to decode to MCH PCM, which means your source needs to do that. Which basically means either a PC or an Apple TV 4K. Maybe some gaming consoles can do that too...? Not sure on that. And once it is decoded, you could probably just use the HDMI ARC port of your TV to connect the MiniDSP. Only if your TV doesn't have ARC (which TV doesn't, though) or it doesn't do pass through of MCH PCM, you would need something like the OREI.

Also, if your AVR has inputs to be used as a power amp solely (like my Harman Kardon AVR 5500 has), I'd prefer to go that route. You'd skip any unwanted conversions / stuff in the signal path and could use the MiniDSP as pre-amp, which has the advantage of being able to control volume via TV remote.

Ah I messed up, if your TV doesn't support eARC (i.e. HDMI 2.1), you will need the splitter. If it is modern enough though, you can skip it.
The XBOX Series X/S and PS5 can be set to output LPCM 7.1. The signal can be passed through a TV supporting eARC as long as the HDMI port used to connect the device to the TV is set to Bitstream and the TV’s Digital Audio Output is set to Passthrough. Setting the output to PCM results in a down mix of the signal to PCM 2.0.

Different TV manufacturers will have different settings for enabling eARC. But, set correctly, all should pass signals up to LPCM 7.1. Many have issues at the receiving end when a device only supports ARC or has certain limitations on their eARC port as many soundbar owners have experienced.
 
Can this device be used as an 8-channels USB DAC in a 2.2 setup?
I want to run my convolutions in Roon's DSP engine.
I'm already using an OktoDac8Pro in this configuration in another room.
 
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