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Minidsp DDRC-88A Dirac Multichannel DSP Review

Francis Vaughan

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Depends upon your goal for bass and number of listeners or size of sweet spot. MiniDSP gets you the ability to properly manage up to 4 subwoofers and in principle optimise for four locations or have a much larger region of optimal bass. And again it is independent of the AVR in use. I would be very surprised if Dirac could beat MSO in this scenario. Indeed I doubt it could beat any hand measured and optimised setup. It’s value is for people that are in the market for a push button solution.
Analysis with REW including its room modeller, some understanding of the room construction, treatments in use, and the underlying physics, plus MSO, is going to beat any pre canned optimiser flying blind.
 

phoenixdogfan

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Great review, I enjoyed reading it.

I'm planning my next home theater setup. I have been doing some research and I think this specific statement isn't actually true.

Essentially, the DDRC-88A with the DDRC-88BM software plugin offers not only Dirac but a multi-subwoofer bass control solution (Multi-Sub Optimizer/MSO), which gives it an advantage over a good AVR with Dirac alone. The next cheapest AVR with multi-sub capability (namely, Dirac Live Bass Control) is the Monoprice Monolith HTP-1 - with DLBC, it will run you $4500.

And a huge advantage of the DDRC-88A is that when your AVR ages to the point it doesn't support modern video formats (HDMI 2.1, anyone?), you can just get the cheapest AVR with pre-outs that does! This means no shelling out for another $4500 'premium' Dirac/DLBC AVR every time the HDMI spec is overhauled! I didn't see this benefit highlighted in the review either, but perhaps it is obvious - I am new to the home theater world.

So today, if you're entering the HT world and want a Dirac solution, the Dirac 'performance hierarchy' something like this:
  1. ~$500: AVRs without Dirac (i.e. Audessey or other solutions)
  2. ~$900: AVRs with Dirac but without multi-sub bass control (i.e. the upcoming Onkyo/Pioneer HDMI 2.1 AVRs)
  3. ~$2100: DDRC-88A ($1000) + DDRC-88BM ($100) + a good power amp (i.e. the ASR-recommended Emotiva A-500, $500, x2 for >5 passive channels) + a cheap AVR with pre-outs ($500)
  4. ~$4500: Monoprice Monolith HTP-1 ($4000, ASR review) + Dirac Live Bass Control ($500)
The third solution almost definitely is the most flexible and cheapest in the long run:
  • Because you've centralized the 'expensive' part (Dirac w/ bass control), the running upgrade cost becomes $500 for a new AVR as opposed to $4500. It also gets you a power amp, which is nice.
  • Unlike the second or fourth solution, you don't have to re-calibrate Dirac every time you get a new AVR.
Now, the question is whether Dirac Live Bass Control actually is the extra $3.5k over the 2x4 MSO or $2.5k over the DDRC-88A+DDRC-88BM setup? And I think the answer is 'no' - if you look through AVSForum, you'll see tons of people actually using their MiniDSP 2x4 for bass control on their $4000 HTP-1s instead of Dirac Live Bass Control. In fact, one member's measurements show no improvement of DLBC (red) over the miniDSP MSO/multi-subwoofer (blue) solution for multiple listening positions:

View attachment 132652

So the extra $2500-3500 initial cost of the HTP-1, alongside the much higher rolling cost ($4500 vs $500), just seems to buys you an easier calibration experience (minutes instead of hours). Which, hey, might be worth it to some!

Anyways, I hope this proves informative to anyone looking into a new home theater setup. To me, at least, this highlights that for most enthusiasts, the MiniDSP 2x4 HD w/ MSO or the DDRC-88A+DDRC-88BM routes are probably more sensible in a world of overpriced Dirac AVRs that measure terribly. Let's be honest, the main reason people are shelling out $4500+ for many of these AVRs is just Dirac/DLBC. Otherwise, they often measure worse than AVRs a fourth of the price, and it seems like miniDSP has provided a much more cost-effective alternative that has flown under most people's radars.

P.S., some interesting things I didn't see covered:
  • Like most receivers, the DDRC-88A has bass management capability
  • It is apparently possible to use two DDRC-88A units if you need multiple channels (i.e. Atmos), according to this guide by AVSForum member kbarnes701.
  • According to MiniDSP, you only need one channel for multiple subs, which means you can do, say, a 7.4 setup with only one DDRC-88A
The real solution is for Dirac to release DLBC for PCs, then it can be used with something like an OCTO DAC 8 Pro to create multi sub management with a high quality processor at a reasonable price.
 

Chromatischism

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EQ can't fix bad sub placement, so I shouldn't word it like that. I don't think we have evidence that shows Dirac does better at correcting bass; I just meant there are some situations that seem to trip up Audyssey for whatever reason.
 

TimoJ

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Great review, I enjoyed reading it.

I'm planning my next home theater setup. I have been doing some research and I think this specific statement isn't actually true.

Essentially, the DDRC-88A with the DDRC-88BM software plugin offers not only Dirac but a multi-subwoofer bass control solution (Multi-Sub Optimizer/MSO), which gives it an advantage over a good AVR with Dirac alone. The next cheapest AVR with multi-sub capability (namely, Dirac Live Bass Control) is the Monoprice Monolith HTP-1 - with DLBC, it will run you $4500.

And a huge advantage of the DDRC-88A is that when your AVR ages to the point it doesn't support modern video formats (HDMI 2.1, anyone?), you can just get the cheapest AVR with pre-outs that does! This means no shelling out for another $4500 'premium' Dirac/DLBC AVR every time the HDMI spec is overhauled! I didn't see this benefit highlighted in the review either, but perhaps it is obvious - I am new to the home theater world.

So today, if you're entering the HT world and want a Dirac solution, the Dirac 'performance hierarchy' something like this:
  1. ~$500: AVRs without Dirac (i.e. Audessey or other solutions)
  2. ~$900: AVRs with Dirac but without multi-sub bass control (i.e. the upcoming Onkyo/Pioneer HDMI 2.1 AVRs)
  3. ~$2100: DDRC-88A ($1000) + DDRC-88BM ($100) + a good power amp (i.e. the ASR-recommended Emotiva A-500, $500, x2 for >5 passive channels) + a cheap AVR with pre-outs ($500)
  4. ~$4500: Monoprice Monolith HTP-1 ($4000, ASR review) + Dirac Live Bass Control ($500)
The third solution almost definitely is the most flexible and cheapest in the long run:
  • Because you've centralized the 'expensive' part (Dirac w/ bass control), the running upgrade cost becomes $500 for a new AVR as opposed to $4500. It also gets you a power amp, which is nice.
  • Unlike the second or fourth solution, you don't have to re-calibrate Dirac every time you get a new AVR.
Now, the question is whether Dirac Live Bass Control actually is the extra $3.5k over the 2x4 MSO or $2.5k over the DDRC-88A+DDRC-88BM setup? And I think the answer is 'no' - if you look through AVSForum, you'll see tons of people actually using their MiniDSP 2x4 for bass control on their $4000 HTP-1s instead of Dirac Live Bass Control. In fact, one member's measurements show no improvement of DLBC (red) over the miniDSP MSO/multi-subwoofer (blue) solution for multiple listening positions:

View attachment 132652

So the extra $2500-3500 initial cost of the HTP-1, alongside the much higher rolling cost ($4500 vs $500), just seems to buys you an easier calibration experience (minutes instead of hours). Which, hey, might be worth it to some!

Anyways, I hope this proves informative to anyone looking into a new home theater setup. To me, at least, this highlights that for most enthusiasts, the MiniDSP 2x4 HD w/ MSO or the DDRC-88A+DDRC-88BM routes are probably more sensible in a world of overpriced Dirac AVRs that measure terribly. Let's be honest, the main reason people are shelling out $4500+ for many of these AVRs is just Dirac/DLBC. Otherwise, they often measure worse than AVRs a fourth of the price, and it seems like miniDSP has provided a much more cost-effective alternative that has flown under most people's radars.

P.S., some interesting things I didn't see covered:
  • Like most receivers, the DDRC-88A has bass management capability
  • It is apparently possible to use two DDRC-88A units if you need multiple channels (i.e. Atmos), according to this guide by AVSForum member kbarnes701.
  • According to MiniDSP, you only need one channel for multiple subs, which means you can do, say, a 7.4 setup with only one DDRC-88A
DDRC-88A is a low performance kludge. It was a great solution to get Dirac at the time when it was released but not anymore. I used to use one in my system (from 2015 to 2020 ) and year ago upgraded to HTP-1. Sure the HTP-1 costs more money, but everything is so much easier with it. My DDRC-88A-BM is now used with my computer audio system, 2 channels only.
 

tusing

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DDRC-88A is a low performance kludge. It was a great solution to get Dirac at the time when it was released but not anymore. I used to use one in my system (from 2015 to 2020 ) and year ago upgraded to HTP-1. Sure the HTP-1 costs more money, but everything is so much easier with it. My DDRC-88A-BM is now used with my computer audio system, 2 channels only.

I generally agree that if you’re okay with sparing the extra money for the HTP-1 you might as well go for it. But, the rolling costs are also very high, so anyone who buys an HTP-1 should consider that they will need to buy an equally expensive AVR as video and audio codecs evolve. For example, if you purchase an A90J TV today, you will almost certainly need to upgrade your HTP-1 a year or two from today, since the TV only has one HDMI 2.1 port aside from eARC.

It comes down to how comfortable you are with dropping money on these things. Some people are fine with buying a new $4500 AVR every 3-5 years, others may be more comfortable with putting down $2500 one-time and spending $500 every 3-5 years.

Either way, my goal was simply trying to show how you can get ~equivalent audio capability for most home theater setups for less money.
 
Last edited:

stunta

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Great review, I enjoyed reading it.

I'm planning my next home theater setup. I have been doing some research and I think this specific statement isn't actually true.

Essentially, the DDRC-88A with the DDRC-88BM software plugin offers not only Dirac but a multi-subwoofer bass control solution (Multi-Sub Optimizer/MSO), which gives it an advantage over a good AVR with Dirac alone. The next cheapest AVR with multi-sub capability (namely, Dirac Live Bass Control) is the Monoprice Monolith HTP-1 - with DLBC, it will run you $4500.

And a huge advantage of the DDRC-88A is that when your AVR ages to the point it doesn't support modern video formats (HDMI 2.1, anyone?), you can just get the cheapest AVR with pre-outs that does! This means no shelling out for another $4500 'premium' Dirac/DLBC AVR every time the HDMI spec is overhauled! I didn't see this benefit highlighted in the review either, but perhaps it is obvious - I am new to the home theater world.

So today, if you're entering the HT world and want a Dirac solution, the Dirac 'performance hierarchy' something like this:
  1. ~$500: AVRs without Dirac (i.e. Audessey or other solutions)
  2. ~$900: AVRs with Dirac but without multi-sub bass control (i.e. the upcoming Onkyo/Pioneer HDMI 2.1 AVRs)
  3. ~$2100: DDRC-88A ($1000) + DDRC-88BM ($100) + a good power amp (i.e. the ASR-recommended Emotiva A-500, $500, x2 for >5 passive channels) + a cheap AVR with pre-outs ($500)
  4. ~$5000: Monoprice Monolith HTP-1 ($4000, ASR review) + Dirac Live Bass Control ($500) + 5-channel power amp ($500)
The third solution almost definitely is the most flexible and cheapest in the long run:
  • Because you've centralized the 'expensive' part (Dirac w/ bass control), the running upgrade cost becomes $500 for a new AVR as opposed to $4500. It also gets you a power amp, which is nice.
  • Unlike the second or fourth solution, you don't have to re-calibrate Dirac every time you get a new AVR.
Now, the question is whether Dirac Live Bass Control actually is the extra $4k over the 2x4 MSO or $3k over the DDRC-88A+DDRC-88BM setup? And I think the answer is 'no' - if you look through AVSForum, you'll see tons of people actually using their MiniDSP 2x4 for bass control on their $4000 HTP-1s instead of Dirac Live Bass Control. In fact, one member's measurements show no improvement of DLBC (red) over the miniDSP MSO/multi-subwoofer (blue) solution for multiple listening positions:

View attachment 132652

So the extra $2500-3500 initial cost of the HTP-1, alongside the much higher rolling cost ($4500 vs $500), just seems to buys you an easier calibration experience (minutes instead of hours). Which, hey, might be worth it to some!

Anyways, I hope this proves informative to anyone looking into a new home theater setup. To me, at least, this highlights that for most enthusiasts, the MiniDSP 2x4 HD w/ MSO or the DDRC-88A+DDRC-88BM routes are probably more sensible in a world of overpriced Dirac AVRs that measure terribly. Let's be honest, the main reason people are shelling out $4500+ for many of these AVRs is just Dirac/DLBC. Otherwise, they often measure worse than AVRs a fourth of the price, and it seems like miniDSP has provided a much more cost-effective alternative that has flown under most people's radars.

P.S., some interesting things I didn't see covered:
  • Like most receivers, the DDRC-88A has bass management capability
  • It is apparently possible to use two DDRC-88A units if you need multiple channels (i.e. Atmos), according to this guide by AVSForum member kbarnes701.
  • According to MiniDSP, you only need one channel for multiple subs, which means you can do, say, a 7.4 setup with only one DDRC-88A

This is a very good summary. As a former owner of the DDRC-88A and current owner of the HTP-1, I'd like to add a couple of considerations:

1. The DDRC has very flexible routing and mixing capabilities which support complex configurations that even, AFAIK, the HTP-1 does not support.
2. This is personal, but I could not tolerate the wiring mess that the DDRC created due to it being an external component. I also did not like how fragile the phoenix connectors were - when fiddling with stuff in my rack., they would easily come loose and generate loud popping noises.
3. Rack space - the HTP-1 is a very compact unit and takes up far less space than the average AVR + DDRC.
4. DDRC does not offer a remote web-based interface. You have to have your PC physically connected to it to change configuration. Might be a minor annoyance if you are not changing things often, but these small usability issues add up.

In general I agree with the overall point you make - if you are on a tight budget, a cheap AVR + DDRC-88A is a good option.
 

phoenixdogfan

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Not really. It can do very basic surround, but none of the modern formats. Certainly not Atmos etc.
https://wiki.jriver.com/index.php/Audio_Formats
You are correct. Neither Atmos nor DTS-X can be decoded b/c their licensing is restricted to dedicated stand alone processors and receivers. Of course most movies are in the legacy formats, and unless someone is willing to dedicate a home theater room to 14-24 speakers (which is a small minority) the overwhelming majority will find JRiver and an Octo will meet their needs for high quality legacy format processing.
 

database

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Great review, I enjoyed reading it.

I'm planning my next home theater setup. I have been doing some research and I think this specific statement isn't actually true.

Essentially, the DDRC-88A with the DDRC-88BM software plugin offers not only Dirac but a multi-subwoofer bass control solution (Multi-Sub Optimizer/MSO), which gives it an advantage over a good AVR with Dirac alone. The next cheapest AVR with multi-sub capability (namely, Dirac Live Bass Control) is the Monoprice Monolith HTP-1 - with DLBC, it will run you $4500.

And a huge advantage of the DDRC-88A is that when your AVR ages to the point it doesn't support modern video formats (HDMI 2.1, anyone?), you can just get the cheapest AVR with pre-outs that does! This means no shelling out for another $4500 'premium' Dirac/DLBC AVR every time the HDMI spec is overhauled! I didn't see this benefit highlighted in the review either, but perhaps it is obvious - I am new to the home theater world.

So today, if you're entering the HT world and want a Dirac solution, the Dirac 'performance hierarchy' something like this:
  1. ~$500: AVRs without Dirac (i.e. Audessey or other solutions)
  2. ~$900: AVRs with Dirac but without multi-sub bass control (i.e. the upcoming Onkyo/Pioneer HDMI 2.1 AVRs)
  3. ~$2100: DDRC-88A ($1000) + DDRC-88BM ($100) + a good power amp (i.e. the ASR-recommended Emotiva A-500, $500, x2 for >5 passive channels) + a cheap AVR with pre-outs ($500)
  4. ~$5000: Monoprice Monolith HTP-1 ($4000, ASR review) + Dirac Live Bass Control ($500) + 5-channel power amp ($500)
The third solution almost definitely is the most flexible and cheapest in the long run:
  • Because you've centralized the 'expensive' part (Dirac w/ bass control), the running upgrade cost becomes $500 for a new AVR as opposed to $4500. It also gets you a power amp, which is nice.
  • Unlike the second or fourth solution, you don't have to re-calibrate Dirac every time you get a new AVR.
Now, the question is whether Dirac Live Bass Control actually is the extra $4k over the 2x4 MSO or $3k over the DDRC-88A+DDRC-88BM setup? And I think the answer is 'no' - if you look through AVSForum, you'll see tons of people actually using their MiniDSP 2x4 for bass control on their $4000 HTP-1s instead of Dirac Live Bass Control. In fact, one member's measurements show no improvement of DLBC (red) over the miniDSP MSO/multi-subwoofer (blue) solution for multiple listening positions:

View attachment 132652

So the extra $2500-3500 initial cost of the HTP-1, alongside the much higher rolling cost ($4500 vs $500), just seems to buys you an easier calibration experience (minutes instead of hours). Which, hey, might be worth it to some!

Anyways, I hope this proves informative to anyone looking into a new home theater setup. To me, at least, this highlights that for most enthusiasts, the MiniDSP 2x4 HD w/ MSO or the DDRC-88A+DDRC-88BM routes are probably more sensible in a world of overpriced Dirac AVRs that measure terribly. Let's be honest, the main reason people are shelling out $4500+ for many of these AVRs is just Dirac/DLBC. Otherwise, they often measure worse than AVRs a fourth of the price, and it seems like miniDSP has provided a much more cost-effective alternative that has flown under most people's radars.

P.S., some interesting things I didn't see covered:
  • Like most receivers, the DDRC-88A has bass management capability
  • It is apparently possible to use two DDRC-88A units if you need multiple channels (i.e. Atmos), according to this guide by AVSForum member kbarnes701.
  • According to MiniDSP, you only need one channel for multiple subs, which means you can do, say, a 7.4 setup with only one DDRC-88A

This is a very good summary. As a former owner of the DDRC-88A and current owner of the HTP-1, I'd like to add a couple of considerations:

1. The DDRC has very flexible routing and mixing capabilities which support complex configurations that even, AFAIK, the HTP-1 does not support.
2. This is personal, but I could not tolerate the wiring mess that the DDRC created due to it being an external component. I also did not like how fragile the phoenix connectors were - when fiddling with stuff in my rack., they would easily come loose and generate loud popping noises.
3. Rack space - the HTP-1 is a very compact unit and takes up far less space than the average AVR + DDRC.
4. DDRC does not offer a remote web-based interface. You have to have your PC physically connected to it to change configuration. Might be a minor annoyance if you are not changing things often, but these small usability issues add up.

In general I agree with the overall point you make - if you are on a tight budget, a cheap AVR + DDRC-88A is a good option.

The other downside for the DDRC-88A is the extra A/D/A conversion. I have to agree with the other poster about it being "low performance kludge" - it can easily bottleneck your system's performance.

I ran the 88A for a few years with my Denon to use Dirac instead of Audyssey and that was enough of an upgrade because Dirac is that much better than Audyssey, that I wasn't worried about the A/D/A conversion at the time. Then I swapped the Denon for an Anthem and I actually did have to recalibrate because the level on the subwoofer out was different, so it's not necessarily true that you don't need to recalibrate when you have the 88A.

Later, I also tested Dirac on the NAD T758v3 (yes, the one with the infamously bad ASR review), and it sounded about the same as the receiver + 88A. But the HTP-1 was audibly better than the 88A and NAD in a blind test, even before the DLBC upgrade. The hiss when I put my ears to my speakers was gone, and I heard more details in music and movies.

The 88A simply wasn't transparent enough. It was a fun toy to get into Dirac several years ago, but I don't miss it, and I don't think it's very relevant in 2021. If you want Dirac for cheap the NAD is a better option. If you want better performance and DLBC, the HTP-1 is a good option. Where does the 88A fit in? I suppose its flexibility is good if you have a less common use case. But I certainly wouldn't consider it to be a cost effective solution to run Dirac anymore.
 

Chromatischism

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I ran the 88A for a few years with my Denon to use Dirac instead of Audyssey and that was enough of an upgrade because Dirac is that much better than Audyssey, that I wasn't worried about the A/D/A conversion at the time.
What did you use room correction for? Bass only, or full range?
 
Last edited:

Chromatischism

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You are correct. Neither Atmos nor DTS-X can be decoded b/c their licensing is restricted to dedicated stand alone processors and receivers. Of course most movies are in the legacy formats, and unless someone is willing to dedicate a home theater room to 14-24 speakers (which is a small minority) the overwhelming majority will find JRiver and an Octo will meet their needs for high quality legacy format processing.
The average home Atmos layout is 5.1.4, or 9 speakers + sub.
 

Trdat

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You are correct. Neither Atmos nor DTS-X can be decoded b/c their licensing is restricted to dedicated stand alone processors and receivers. Of course most movies are in the legacy formats, and unless someone is willing to dedicate a home theater room to 14-24 speakers (which is a small minority) the overwhelming majority will find JRiver and an Octo will meet their needs for high quality legacy format processing.


Do you have experience with Jriver JRSS decoding? I have the option of setting up surround sound for music with an AVR or using Jriver which of course will be significantly higher in SINAD. Ultimately do you think the JRSS is as good as the standard Dolby for a 5.2 set up?
 

hollis

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Do you have experience with Jriver JRSS decoding? I have the option of setting up surround sound for music with an AVR or using Jriver which of course will be significantly higher in SINAD. Ultimately do you think the JRSS is as good as the standard Dolby for a 5.2 set up?
I might be able to let go of heights and stay 5.1 or 7.1.

I bought the Lynx PCIE card, so now I can do win10 -> 8ch AES -> 88d

I have spare speakers and amps all over, so all I need to test is to get win10 talking to the PCIE card in the correct way. If anyone has links to guides or success stories I'd be interested. Goal 1 is Netflix. Fallback goal 2 is simple playback of local content. Blu ray backup rips.
 

ronnzi

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Not sure if this is the right place to ask this or not. I also posted this question on the MiniDSP forums, but I wanted to post it here as well, as the ASR crowd has always been super helpful.

I recently purchased a used MiniDSP DDRC-88A-BC and am super excited to run Dirac Live 3.0 for the first time! Given my budget and current hardware, going this route presented much more value to me than having to sell/save up for something like the HTP-1.

My AVR is an Onkyo RZ810, so its AccuEQ room calibration system is less than ideal, so I am hoping DL is going to make a big difference. I am running a separate Monoprice Monolith x7 amplifier via RCA pre-outs to power my 5 speaker channels. I also have 2 HSU subwoofers. Though both subwoofers have 12-inch drivers, they are different models (one is a HSU VTF-3 MK2, the other is a HSU VTF-3 HO). My subs are in different positions in the room (the best I could find via measurements and space in the room). Prior to getting the DDRC-88A, I have the subwoofers volume and time corrected using a MiniDSP 2x4HD. I have not gotten into MSO or anything like that, but I did use REW to create a custom curve to base manage the two subs up to this point.

Anyways, I am trying to figure out what the best method will be to connect everything once I get the DDRC-88A. Should I keep the two subs connected to the MiniDSP 2x4HD for volume/time correction, and then have the 2x4HD output to a single input on the DDRC-88A for Dirac Live correction? I was thinking I would just throw out the REW DSP corrections I did on the subs and just let Dirac Live correct the two subs together, matched up by the MiniDSP 2x4HD. Is this a good approach?

FWIW, I do have multiple seats I am going to try to correct for alone a single couch, but I would prefer to keep my setup as simple as possible within reason. The more I can have Dirac Live do without me tweaking, the better. To be clear, my system then is a 5.2 system with slightly mis-matched subs, and I will definitely be keeping the MiniDSP 2x4HD whether I end up using it, or just putting it on a shelf and just let the DDRC-88A do everything.

Any advice and thoughts on my setup here is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
 

tonybarrett

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I have the ddrc-88BM. I have two zones, with dsp on two speaker system in the kitchen, leaving me with 6 inputs/outputs free for the 5.2 system in the living room. One input/output is dedicated to the two subs. So goes from the LFE channel out to the 88BM, to one input of a minidsp 2x4HD (I could have just used a regular 2x4, it seems) and then two of its outputs to the two subs. i believe you should use the 88 to integrate the subs, mains and surrounds. I ran MSO to generate filters first, to use on the 2x4HD, so that the bass level was balanced across the main seating area and then tested that with REW. I found that three filters gave the best result after trying as many as 8 at one point. The author says that smaller numbers of filters are better. And the software really is great. Then I ran Dirac and used the optional bass module of the 88 to set up different crossovers for the different sets of speakers depending on their capabilities (I overlapped some crossovers to try to fill some dips in the response, which seemed to work quite well), while testing the frequency curve with REW. i only use Dirac correction in the lower to mid frequencies (I can’t remember exactly which numbers now but I’ve varied it again depending on the different speakers’ capabilities). My main speakers are quite well behaved at the higher frequencies. There are some application notes on minidsp’s website that explain how to use the 2x4 to integrate subs and also how to use MSO with the 88 and 2x4. Have you seen?
 

ronnzi

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I have the ddrc-88BM. I have two zones, with dsp on two speaker system in the kitchen, leaving me with 6 inputs/outputs free for the 5.2 system in the living room. One input/output is dedicated to the two subs. So goes from the LFE channel out to the 88BM, to one input of a minidsp 2x4HD (I could have just used a regular 2x4, it seems) and then two of its outputs to the two subs. i believe you should use the 88 to integrate the subs, mains and surrounds. I ran MSO to generate filters first, to use on the 2x4HD, so that the bass level was balanced across the main seating area and then tested that with REW. I found that three filters gave the best result after trying as many as 8 at one point. The author says that smaller numbers of filters are better. And the software really is great. Then I ran Dirac and used the optional bass module of the 88 to set up different crossovers for the different sets of speakers depending on their capabilities (I overlapped some crossovers to try to fill some dips in the response, which seemed to work quite well), while testing the frequency curve with REW. i only use Dirac correction in the lower to mid frequencies (I can’t remember exactly which numbers now but I’ve varied it again depending on the different speakers’ capabilities). My main speakers are quite well behaved at the higher frequencies. There are some application notes on minidsp’s website that explain how to use the 2x4 to integrate subs and also how to use MSO with the 88 and 2x4. Have you seen?
Yeah, I’ve seen some of the different guides, but without the unit yet they don’t all quite make perfect sense to me yet. What you’re saying you did makes sense to me, I believe.

I will have the bass management plugin as well, so it sounds like I use crossovers through the MiniDSP software rather than through Dirac or the AVR itself?

This will probably make more sense for me I guess once I get the unit in to see what settings each piece of software actually has.
 

tonybarrett

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Yep, turn off the crossovers in the avr and use minidsp’s software to set the crossovers.
 

tonybarrett

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Links to useful application notes on minidsp:

Using MSO (appendix at bottom illustrates using 88 and 2x4 together)

Using the BM module for bass management

Minidsp will also respond to emails if you run into any trouble or have questions
 
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