MekedeTech DUDU7 Android Head Unit Review

[Dumdum]

Nice since you are at it you can use Roon to report if the chain is bit perfect which is probably not when using DSP so i wouldn't care much. Hopefully you can show us some meaningful measurements of these and other gear. There is also a group in FB called distortion factory that measures car audio if you are interested.

I know Nerijus, he will be testing some more Audiotec Fischer equipment very shortly when I take it over to him I’ve measured several amps with my cosmos e1da for the page also

I’m guessing that involves paying for Roon… I pretty much exclusively use Apple Music and also the Doppler music player app for wav/flac/whatever other files I want to play on my iPhone to an smsl po100 pro

 

[energizerfellow]

Of course mostly car audio is used when driving and ambient noises are too high to recognize any noise of the audio system in the -80dB region. But in competition the car is standing and no engine running. This use case is relevant to try to get the best signal quality you possibly can.

There's also applications like RV or marine where you potentially have larger cabins and no engine noise.

I agree that toslink is an easy way to avoid ground loops, as well as possible influences when routing (badly shielded) low level signal cables together with power supply cables.
Since there is no Android Head Unit with a newer Android than 13 there is no native bit-perfect USB audio, but because of the graphic I posted above I thought it might be possible that parts of the audio stack might be bypassed when using USB audio out. But maybe this only means that USB is capable of more HiRes formats than toslink (which is not what I need).

I'm mildly surprised the aftermarket hasn't latched onto ADAT to get more digital audio channels. It's the same physical layer as Toslink, just with a slightly higher bandwidth TX/RX ICs and optics (that many common Toslink chips can do if overclocked?).

While MOST (Microchip) and A2B (Analog Devices) are proprietary and OEM friendly, there's MADI, AVB, and AES67 which haven't been adopted for... reasons? Didn't one of the aftermarket DSP manufacturers have a built-in A2B module that was (currently) disabled in firmware?

 

[Chrise36]

I know Nerijus, he will be testing some more Audiotec Fischer equipment very shortly when I take it over to him I’ve measured several amps with my cosmos e1da for the page also

I’m guessing that involves paying for Roon… I pretty much exclusively use Apple Music and also the Doppler music player app for wav/flac/whatever other files I want to play on my iPhone to an smsl po100 pro

You can pay Roon per month when you need it or use trial period

 

[jannek]

I'm mildly surprised the aftermarket hasn't latched onto ADAT to get more digital audio channels. It's the same physical layer as Toslink, just with a slightly higher bandwidth TX/RX ICs and optics (that many common Toslink chips can do if overclocked?).

While MOST (Microchip) and A2B (Analog Devices) are proprietary and OEM friendly, there's MADI, AVB, and AES67 which haven't been adopted for... reasons? Didn't one of the aftermarket DSP manufacturers have a built-in A2B module that was (currently) disabled in firmware?

I think the reason might be that mostly there is no use for more than two digital channels. Of course there are special setups like in Dumdums amps where the D/A conversions happens right before the amplifier stage, but this is a special feature of Audiotec Fischer. The most common setup is a digital stereo signal to the DSP and analog RCA for the single speaker channels from there to the amp. Or at a DSP amp like the Audison with an internal transfer to the amp.

 

[amirm]

I think the reason might be that mostly there is no use for more than two digital channels.

Actually, having 4 channels would be quite useful. Current head units have controls for front vs rear and spatial alignments. You get all of this with analog out to all those speakers. But when you go with a single Toslink, you lose this and only have fronts/original signal. Yes, the external DSP can do these things but there is usually no rich UI for them as there is in the head unit.

I saw a video on an ATTOTO which actually has dual Toslink output which mates with one of their amplifiers. I hope this becomes more common.

 

[energizerfellow]

You also have things like safety chimes, navigation prompts, handsfree headset for calls, turn signal clicks, etc. Most of these you'll only want in the front or even just the center speaker alone.

 

[amirm]

I don't have those considerations but yes, that is an integration point where head units may accommodate but not the Toslink.

 

[Scrivs]

If you think this model stinks, then I'd not recommend the Dudu #2

 

[jannek]

Actually, having 4 channels would be quite useful. Current head units have controls for front vs rear and spatial alignments. You get all of this with analog out to all those speakers. But when you go with a single Toslink, you lose this and only have fronts/original signal. Yes, the external DSP can do these things but there is usually no rich UI for them as there is in the head unit.

I saw a video on an ATTOTO which actually has dual Toslink output which mates with one of their amplifiers. I hope this becomes more common.

Ok, absolutely right. The UI of the original Headunit is lost when using a digital out.
Concerning additional sounds like turn signal clicks, park distance signals etc: In some cars these have additional separate speakers.
A solution is as follows: Using all stock analog outs as analog High Level in for a DSP amp and in parallel a digital source for the high quality signal. These can usually be fed in parallel, with a defined priority, so no need to switch sources. So for example all signals which are generated by the car like additional sounds or for example radio are coming in analog, these are mostly relevant when driving so the signal quality is less relevant because of ambient noise. And not that bad usually by the way. When in need of ultimate sound quality only a stereo signal is needed and can be fed digital.
One might say it's not convenient to interact with a separate device like a HiRes Player or a phone or tablet as a source - my solution is an AAWireless Adapter. With this the Smartphone can be connected to and handled by the Headunit with Android Auto and it is able to define a different audio sink for output - which in my case is a LDAC bluetooth receiver connected digitally to the DSP-Amp.

 

[amirm]

That's a good workaround.

My current/last problem with this unit is interfacing with the steering wheel controls. The unit has canbus+/canbus- with a non-standard connector (typically these are 3.5mm jacks). I have email into them as to what interface works with these. I have also bought one that advertises to work our Sprinter. There is next to no information on the protocol the head unit itself can decode.

 

[Chrise36]

Ok, absolutely right. The UI of the original Headunit is lost when using a digital out.
Concerning additional sounds like turn signal clicks, park distance signals etc: In some cars these have additional separate speakers.
A solution is as follows: Using all stock analog outs as analog High Level in for a DSP amp and in parallel a digital source for the high quality signal. These can usually be fed in parallel, with a defined priority, so no need to switch sources. So for example all signals which are generated by the car like additional sounds or for example radio are coming in analog, these are mostly relevant when driving so the signal quality is less relevant because of ambient noise. And not that bad usually by the way. When in need of ultimate sound quality only a stereo signal is needed and can be fed digital.
One might say it's not convenient to interact with a separate device like a HiRes Player or a phone or tablet as a source - my solution is an AAWireless Adapter. With this the Smartphone can be connected to and handled by the Headunit with Android Auto and it is able to define a different audio sink for output - which in my case is a LDAC bluetooth receiver connected digitally to the DSP-Amp.

I use the Berrybak adapter which has usb and bt input and switches automatically for the digital input of the dsp. I also use the analog input of the dsp for the radio.

 

[jannek]

I use the Berrybak adapter which has usb and bt input and switches automatically for the digital input of the dsp. I also use the analog input of the dsp for the radio.

Same here.

 

[jannek]

My current/last problem with this unit is interfacing with the steering wheel controls. The unit has canbus+/canbus- with a non-standard connector (typically these are 3.5mm jacks). I have email into them as to what interface works with these. I have also bought one that advertises to work our Sprinter. There is next to no information on the protocol the head unit itself can decode.

Did you check the chapter "canbus common problems" on this page?
https://wiki.dudu-auto.com/en/home
There is at least some information about canbus adapters which are compatible and also a bit about the possible settings.

 

[Head_Unit]

Just ran Tamanawas Falls trail along the East Fork, cruised down to Hood River for lunch at Ferment overlooking the Columbia, then moved to Bend to spend two days running the Deschutes River trails and dining al fresco in Saw Mill and downtown.

Oh damn I gotta schedule a vacation to do that! Sounds simply great...less rain in summertime??? I'm not enthusiastic for such in the rain although we LOVED a run up to Eskdale Tarn through pouring rain in England's Lake District. I need a better shell with a bigger brim!

 

[alexanderino]

“Dudu” is a most unfortunate name…

Reminded me of this clip:

 

[raif71]

 

[amirm]

FYI, I finally managed to get the car Canbus integration working. Had to buy two other head units to use their harness to get there! I ordered one harness but it got lost at the last point of delivery. Anything else would take weeks to get here.

 

[mk05]

I purchased an Android unit a while back. Mine was an EONON head unit with Android 13. I can't say that mine has been a pleasant experience. The rearview camera malfunctioned after a year, the included mic makes me sound like I am in a fishbowl (or so I was told), and couple of electrical problems:

- Sometimes the head unit turns on, but there is no volume. I have to restart the head unit couple of times, for volume to engage.
- A lot of times, when on FM, there will be creeping distortion or "fuzz." I have to reselect a station for it to "reset," but then the fuzz returns. This builds until the sound completely turns into static. This problem does not exist when on bluetooth mode and streaming from bluetooth.