Mechano23 Open-source DIY Speaker Review

[ahyespinkelephants]

I'm working on a cast resin baffle and cabinet kit. I'm hoping to produce it as a flat pack so all you have to do is glue up and wire the drivers in. Did someone here make a PCB board for the xover already?

ooh I'm definitely interested in purchasing that!

 

[Ottokbre]

ooh I'm definitely interested in purchasing that!

Nice.

I'll probably pour the mold this weekend. There have been a lot of delays due to parenting (spring break, doh!) and a vacuum pump that didn't work out of the box.

Here is the model in a mold box. You get an idea of what the integrated horn/wave guide looks like. This is 3/4" thick with slightly beveled edges.
You cant tell by this photo but the horn/tweeter attachment in there recessed into the mold box by about 1/4". There is a recess in the back of the baffle that easily allows the tweeter to be clipped on to the cast part. For simplicity the baffle was made in imperial but within MM's of the original design.

I need to decide on a mounting design for the back. I could just leave it flat. Wood glue doesn't stick to resin so it would have to be two-part epoxy. I think anyone who wants to build one will probably have a drill so maybe just have pegs molded into the piece. Simple for the end user to build AND cool looking are my aims here.

 

[Ilkless]

This design is a perfect candidate for a good Taiwanese/Korean OEM to release at the sub-700-800/pr range. The supply chain even makes sense, with the SB and ScanSpeak drivers.

Just like how Dennis Murphy found a very good Taiwanese partner for Philharmonic Audio.

 

[Azrael]

I have constructed a box but does filling make a difference when measuring the individual drivers? Or can I make my polar measurements without filling the box?

The final measurements of the individual drivers, which are used to develop the crossover, are taken once the development of the enclosure, including the insertion of damping material, has been completed.

So yes: the damping material has to be already inserted when the individual drivers are measured.

 

[The French]

I'm working on a cast resin baffle and cabinet kit. I'm hoping to produce it as a flat pack so all you have to do is glue up and wire the drivers in. Did someone here make a PCB board for the xover already?

I don't know if you had your answer regarding the PCB Board, but there is a link given by wineds, with a pattern to buy PCB Boards for the crossover.
https://github.com/wineds/Mechano23-xover

I'll be interested in a flat pack as well if you are able to make some (and if you are ready to ship to Europ)

 

[somebodyelse]

I'll be interested in a flat pack as well if you are able to make some (and if you are ready to ship to Europ)

Do you have a makerspace near you? They may be able to help you CNC the parts yourself.

 

[The French]

Do you have a makerspace near you? They may be able to help you CNC the parts yourself.

Thanks for the advise.
I didn't even know what a makerspace was, and there are apparently few of them nearby.
But I may still struggle to even find and transport the raw material.

 

[Roland68]

Nice.

I'll probably pour the mold this weekend. There have been a lot of delays due to parenting (spring break, doh!) and a vacuum pump that didn't work out of the box.

Here is the model in a mold box. You get an idea of what the integrated horn/wave guide looks like. This is 3/4" thick with slightly beveled edges.
You cant tell by this photo but the horn/tweeter attachment in there recessed into the mold box by about 1/4". There is a recess in the back of the baffle that easily allows the tweeter to be clipped on to the cast part. For simplicity the baffle was made in imperial but within MM's of the original design.

I need to decide on a mounting design for the back. I could just leave it flat. Wood glue doesn't stick to resin so it would have to be two-part epoxy. I think anyone who wants to build one will probably have a drill so maybe just have pegs molded into the piece. Simple for the end user to build AND cool looking are my aims here.

View attachment 439408

What kind of casting resin do you want to use for this?

 

[Ottokbre]

What kind of casting resin do you want to use for this?

Well, in this one, both!

Polyurethane resin works best. I'm trying some epoxy too as it's pretty cost effective. But not all resin is equal and I am quickly figuring out what kind of catalyst strength, working times and temps this requires.

 

[The French]

Hi, for any of those who are, like me, total newbies, in terms of DIY things, and who are seeing any steps of the building process as a moutain to climb, here is my first step accomplished : sourcing the wood.
It may looks easy, but here in France, most big supply stores either have really bad ply wood, or no birch, or do not cut under 20cm.
Smaller ones are charging an incredible amount of money for that.
I've finally bought the 12 panels at auprotec.com, a german company. Advertised as 18mm Birch plywood, cut to size. Cost me 56 Euros delivered in France.
I did't ordered the reinforcement bar, I'll cut those myself using mdf, as this part may look ugly.

Now, I need to find someone to properly make the holes. Another mountain to climb.

 

[somebodyelse]

Are there any makerspaces near you? They often have both the tools and people who will show you how to use them.

 

[The French]

Are there any makerspaces near you? They often have both the tools and people who will show you how to use them.

Yes, it's a thing I didn't know, makerspaces. I think I've found one near me, but I'm not fully sure they can helped me. It's both a makerspace, a bar, some concerts.
I've been once, the tools were there, but no one to explain.
But that's the cheapest lead.

 

[Salt]

All you need is a stitch saw and a drill.

 

[The French]

All you need is a stitch saw and a drill.

I thought I needed a router, and something to make circles ?

 

[somebodyelse]

I thought I needed a router, and something to make circles ?

That's certainly the conventional way to recess the drivers. It would be possible to make the baffle out of 2 or more layers with circles cut carefully with a saw and some sanding, maybe with a gasket to bring the drivers to be flush with the surface as they need different depths. It depends on the tools you have available and how much you value time and finish quality. There may be some other creative options depending on what tools the makerspace has.

 

[The French]

I thought I needed a router, and something to make circles ?

Router was fine, until I realized mine was too cheap.
Worked perfectly on an MDF I'd had for some tests.
But failed on Plywood : the bit was set to 6mm...but went 8 then 10mm during the job .
It did that on both panels.
I'll need to fine new faces now, and to find someone qualified.

 

[somebodyelse]

That could be too cheap a tool, or operator error which would be understandable for a beginner. I certainly made similar mistakes when starting out, like trying to cut full depth directly and overloading it rather than multiple shallower passes.

 

[Ktacos]

Router was fine, until I realized mine was too cheap.
Worked perfectly on an MDF I'd had for some tests.
But failed on Plywood : the bit was set to 6mm...but went 8 then 10mm during the job .
It did that on both panels.
I'll need to fine new faces now, and to find someone qualified.

I'll do it, but doubt I live anywhere near to you.

 

[The French]

That could be too cheap a tool, or operator error which would be understandable for a beginner. I certainly made similar mistakes when starting out, like trying to cut full depth directly and overloading it rather than multiple shallower passes.

That could be both indeed

 

[DearSX]

This speakers ties for 3rd best preference score on Spinorama.org (tied with 27 other speakers) once you a "perfect" subwoofer setup.

"Tonality (Preference) Score is 6.81 with an EQ and would be 8.82 with a perfect subwoofer and the same EQ"

I know this is not the end all be all, but would this suggest that basically this speaker is about as good as most anything out there, when you factor in the subwoofer bass?